Re: SD E brake cables

2006-01-06 Thread PentastarTurbo
I think the GLH-T/SC/GLHS brakes are crap on my Rampage.. 
I went with factory mopar pads and they didn't help much..
 
Did you know that 2nd Gen Neon direct replacement rotors are the EXACT same  
as the stock turbo 5x100 L bodys?:)  Hitup ebay for a set of  
cross drilled and slotted rotors and that mite help  some.. I get 
really 
bad fade in  the 95+mph area when really needing the brakes..  
 
Pretty soon Franzen and the guys at boostedmopar.com will have  finished 
figuring out a way to use the SRT brakes on the fronts (so  far):)  
  
couldn't hurt?   :)
 
I will more than likely go the route of disk on the rear of my page (1) for  
ease of operation and (2)  appearance..   Gadda  fill in the 17 
wheels with something;)
 
 

Chris  Pauluk  - Modesto CA. - 1984 Rampage Ramlet 
_www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage)  
 



In a message dated 1/5/2006 9:46:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Exactly.  From my experience, the SLH-1 or 2 brake upgrade on a  stock
Rampage is overkill for the street.  The minivan fronts don't  get warm
enough to actually reach operating temperature so the braking  always
feels pretty ineffective.  This could be helped by changing  pad
compound, but that's a little difficult/expensive with the Minivan  pads
as you'd have to have a set re-lined.  Plus the single pin  minivan
calipers aren't the best solution for track days as they are  flexible,
the phenolic pistons can break down under repeated abuse, the  available
pad compounds are pretty thin and they are pretty  heavy.

For most of the Rampage folks out there, I'd suggest sticking  with the
stock Turbo car brakes and leave it at that.  If you're  reaching 130 in
the 1/4 and doing it a lot or if you're doing a lot of road  race track
days, then changing things further will help.  Preferrably  going to
multi-piston units with adequate cooling ducts and maybe slotted  rotors
(not drilled, they tend to crack and reduce the surface area of  the
rotor) of course braided brake lines can help pedal  feel.

Stefan

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SD parts for sale

2006-01-06 Thread Victor Lehtinen
Everything located in Connecticut 06239
Shipping is extra

1985 MP turbo Logic module  $50

1985 turbo flywheel $40

1988 turbo roller cam with lifters and 
roller rockers, valve springs   $50

T-Bird turbo coupe intercooler  $75

Very good maroon 1987 driver's seat
for 4-door Omni(with tracks)$50

Very good two part maroon rear seat
for 4-door Omni $45

15 GLH Pizza wheels 6 wide 
several availableask for pics

Stock transfer gears 413 (auto)
from 1988 Lancer T-1
one 53 tooth
one 56 tooth   $20 pair

 
85 GLHT dogbone bobble strut$10
   
85 GLH rear taillight lenses   $25 pair

85 GLH driver's side mirror $25
with remote cable

1985 Omni driver's window
(glass only)   $25

85 GLHT airbox bracket  $15

85 Omni glovebox insert $5

1985 T-1 log intake  $15

1985 turbo exhaust manifold  $25   

1985 GLHT turbo support bracket  $10   

Mopar coolant upper line for
1989 2.5 mitsu  (brand new)  $45

set of early T-1 rods$50
 

Engine Stand (brand new) HD  $40


one 1986 C/S 6.5 crab wheel
gold paint flaking$20


   Literature
   
  1989 Acclaim driver's manual   $10

  1988 Sundance driver's manual  $10 

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SD Shelby Valve Cover For Sale

2006-01-06 Thread Billy Mackenzie
I have a 1987 Shelby Valve cover for sale, it had two cracks on the back 
corners. But I had it professionally welded, and power coated, you can't even 
notice where the cracks were. I am looking to get $200+shipping for it.
   
  I can get pics as well (it has never been put on a car since the new powder 
coating, so it looks perfect)
   
  thanks
   




-
Find your next car at Yahoo! Canada Autos

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RE: SD E brake cables

2006-01-06 Thread Mullikin.Stefan
The drilled rotors won't help you.  They reduce the surface area of the
rotors, less surface area for the brake pads to grab onto and most
drilled rotors will develop stress cracks around the drilled holes.  So
you'll spend lots of money for potentially less braking performance and
shorter longevity.  However, the slots do help though as they'll reduce
the amount of glazed (highly polished brake pad surfaces due to improper
pad bedding and warm up procedures) brake material.

The issue with the SRT4/Neon front suspension components on our cars is
that it makes the already bad bump steer problems on these cars worse.
Making the car feel unsettled and almost twitchy when the suspension
moves up an down.  Not something that I'd want at 95mph going into turn
one at the track.  I think you'd be better off just making the necessary
adapter brackets to install Wilwood or Brembo calipers that are properly
sized for your application.

BTW, all of the Neon rotors are a direct fit.  So are the axles I
believe as are the hubs and bearings (for the later bolt-in bearing
cars), though I'd need to confirm that as its just what I've heard from
others.

Stefan

  _

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:52 PM
To: Mullikin Stefan P (EEU7RXX); [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: SD E brake cables


I think the GLH-T/SC/GLHS brakes are crap on my Rampage..
I went with factory mopar pads and they didn't help much..

Did you know that 2nd Gen Neon direct replacement rotors are the EXACT
same as the stock turbo 5x100 L bodys?   :)  Hitup ebay for a
set of cross drilled and slotted rotors and that mite help some..
I get really bad fade in the 95+mph area when really needing the
brakes..

Pretty soon Franzen and the guys at boostedmopar.com will have finished
figuring out a way to use the SRT brakes on the fronts (so far)   :)
couldn't hurt?   :)

I will more than likely go the route of disk on the rear of my page (1)
for ease of operation and (2) appearance..   Gadda fill in the
17 wheels with something;)


Chris Pauluk  - Modesto CA. - 1984 Rampage Ramlet
www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage


In a message dated 1/5/2006 9:46:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Exactly.  From my experience, the SLH-1 or 2 brake upgrade on a
stock
Rampage is overkill for the street.  The minivan fronts don't
get warm
enough to actually reach operating temperature so the braking
always
feels pretty ineffective.  This could be helped by changing pad
compound, but that's a little difficult/expensive with the
Minivan pads
as you'd have to have a set re-lined.  Plus the single pin
minivan
calipers aren't the best solution for track days as they are
flexible,
the phenolic pistons can break down under repeated abuse, the
available
pad compounds are pretty thin and they are pretty heavy.

For most of the Rampage folks out there, I'd suggest sticking
with the
stock Turbo car brakes and leave it at that.  If you're reaching
130 in
the 1/4 and doing it a lot or if you're doing a lot of road race
track
days, then changing things further will help.  Preferrably going
to
multi-piston units with adequate cooling ducts and maybe slotted
rotors
(not drilled, they tend to crack and reduce the surface area of
the
rotor) of course braided brake lines can help pedal feel.

Stefan

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SD New Product from PolyBushings.com

2006-01-06 Thread Johnny Spiva

I have made track arm (panhard rod) bushings for the
rear of all K based carsDaytona, Shadow, Spirit,
Reliant, LeBaron, 600, Dynasty, etc.
Here is a link to the info
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/1025.html

$29 per kit.

Johnny Spiva
PORTLAND, OREGON
--
Selling Polyurethane parts
for your FWD Mopar/Shelby:
http://polybushings.com


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Re: SD E brake cables

2006-01-06 Thread PentastarTurbo
In a message dated 1/6/2006 1:26:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  drilled rotors won't help you.  They reduce the surface area of  the
rotors, less surface area for the brake pads to grab onto and  most
drilled rotors will develop stress cracks around the drilled  holes.  So
you'll spend lots of money for potentially less braking  performance and
shorter longevity.  However, the slots do help though  as they'll reduce
the amount of glazed (highly polished brake pad surfaces  due to improper
pad bedding and warm up procedures) brake  material.


I beg to differ because I've ran cross drilled/slotted rotors on  my 93 
Celica for 4 years and I beat the hell out of it..   (Stock  wheels on it and 
soon 
after did the brakes stripped the  paint and stickers off and hit em with a 
silver)  previous owner..   LOL
_http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/745000-745999/745234_12_ful
l.jpg_ 
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/745000-745999/745234_12_full.jpg)
 
 
I went from bone stock with factory pads to cross drilled rotors and  factory 
brake pads (less dust) the fade is exceptionally  decreased and I would 
fully recommend it to ANYONE without hesitation..
 
I sold it about 3 years ago to a neighbor and I've done a brake job on it  
for him sence..
the zink coating looks as new as the day I installed em. (on the non  
friction surfaces) 
Now the cheapo ones can and most likely will have stress cracks around the  
cross drilled holes and i've had that happen first hand.I saw  a 
advertisment on _www.solo2.org_ (http://www.solo2.org)  while  browsing the 
forum and 
had the cd/s brembros for a dam good price so I  jumped on it..
 
Tell me of your actual experiences with cross drilled, slotted rotors or is  
that just speculation?
 
Im not jumpin on ya..   Im just curious is all:)  
what brands did you use?
 
Chris  Pauluk  - Modesto CA. - 1984 Rampage Ramlet 
_www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage)  
 

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SD cheap parts t2 t3 pick up only detroit area

2006-01-06 Thread Chris9137
a-555 trans from an 87 shelby z 250.00
87 t2 block standard  bore75.00
87 t2 rods and pistons 80.00
87 t2 crank 100.00
87 t2 exhaust manifold w/ turbo 85.00 (turbo has slight shaft wear but is  
usable for a while as it is)
87 t2 flywheel 45.00
87 t2 wiring harness  65.00
87 t2 air box bracket and hoses 40.00
87 t2 shifter cables from 87  shelby z with a-555 35.00
91 spirit r/t drivers seat w/ lumbar mint  75.00
91 spirit r/t dash parts cluster and faceplates mint 35.00
91 spirit  r/t passenger seat mint 50.00
91 spirit r/t console (with armrest) mint  45.00
91 spirit r/t rear seat mint 35.00
91 red spirit  full overhead console w/ mounting bracket 35.00  (can be 
recovered)
91 t3 block standard bore 90.00
91 t3 rods and pistons  100.00
91 t3 crank 175.00
91 balance shaft assembly 45.00
91 t3 a/c  compressor 40.00
really need to make room trans is attached to t2 shortblock  and t3 
shortblock is also still assembled. i'll take 600 for everything listed  plus 
any odds 
and ends i have lying around for turbo 2.2's 
 
 
 
i'm in the detroit area of michigan

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