Re: SD Quick Question
The drilling of the hole in the thermostat, is to prevent air locks in the cooling system. The last one I bought from Mopar actually had a small notch allready in it for this! And when we went drag racing, I wired in a jumper to bypass the cooling fan relay, so the fan would stay on all the time. My friend who was running the same set up didn't do anything to his cooling system, and between runs, you could put your hands on my engine, while his was 10 times hotter than mine! Every time I made a pass, my times kept getting better and better. I really believe that it helped alot! And then we ran out of track time!! Sean B - Original Message - From: Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Shelby Dodge [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 11:01 PM Subject: SD Quick Question Hey guys, I have a question some of you might have a good answer for... What is the best way to get a 2.2 to stay at the most constant temperature while idling for long periods of time? I have read some stuff about drilling a hole in the thermostat, taking the thermostat out completely, and running the fan constantly. I know that the temperature of the engine is a big factor at launch time for bracket racing... Thanks! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Ever break a roller cam?
Had this happen to myself too! Fired up the car (90 Daytona) It was the middle of winter, about 15C below. car ran fine, drove about 2kms, and she up and died, rolled it over, and it sounded like the timing belt was gone, So we pulled the timing belt cover off, and the cam sprocket was hanging out the head about an inch more than it should be!!! Swapped the cam out, and away we go. Car is still running today, and that was about 2 years ago now!! Later, Sean - Original Message - From: David Salamone [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Shelby Dodge Mailing List shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:16 AM Subject: SD Ever break a roller cam? Last year my sister had her high mileage car break down for good and she was in need of a new daily driver. A local friend knew of a good deal on a 2.5 powered minivan so I thought it would be a dependable vehicle for her. I use one myself for m company minivan and it's been quite good with me. It's been pretty reliable thus far but recently she's been had an unusual problem that's been making her feel that it may be headed for a serious and expensive engine repair (which she can't afford since she was laid off recently). Last month without any prior warning signs it stalled out and wouldn't restart. I went to take a quick look at it for her and discovered it was a pretty simple problem, the timing belt had broken. Well that was common enough and it wasn't complicated or expensive to repair so I didn't feel it was an unusual. The repairs went fine and it was back on the road and running fine within days but what happened next I thought was real unusual. Again it stalled out and wouldn't restart. I pulled the inspection plug from the upper timing belt cover and the upper cam gear was turning so I knew the timing belt was turning. She had it towed to a shop where their immediate diagnosis was a blown head gasket. This made little sense to me since there was no warning signs and it had no history of or sudden last minute overheating or smoking. They said they ran a compression check and two cylinders were getting little to no pressure. I didn't feel that was the right diagnosis so she had a mechanic friend of hers work on it at his house. He somewhat agreed with their theory but when the head was pulled the head gasket looked perfect. Upon further inspection (which should have noticed once the valve cover was removed) he discovered that the roller cam had snapped between the area around the last 2 lobes. In a regular stock setup without extreme driving conditions I don't seem to recall seeing camshafts breaking like that. I supplied a decent 2.5 used roller cam that he reinstalled the head gasket cam and it's back to running normally. Someone told her that this was a sign that the bottom end of the motor would be going out soon and the engine was on borrowed time. I was thinking that the cam breakage was just a fluke and possibly due to stress caused by the timing belt breaking and wouldn't have a direct influence on the lower end of the engine. Has anybody had any experiences with camshafts snapping under routine driving? If so are they having other engine problems later? David Salamone Positive Impressions Jacksonville, Florida [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1982 Rampage (dual carb ongoing taking forever project show car) 1987 Shelby CSX #172 (awaiting front end bodywork, but with low miles) 1994 Voyager 2.5 (the company minivan, alive once again with another 2.5) 1979 Dodge Omni 1.7 (backup getaround car when other stuff breaks) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Which one should I use?
I' wouldn't use the ported one, unless you have a compressor wheel to fit it! I believe that there is supposed to be a certain required clearance between the housing and compressor to wheel to actually make the turbo suck air in properly, kinda similar to a turbine engine, or like a jet pump on a seadoo. I could be mistaken, but thats just my opinion. Sean - Original Message - From: Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Shelby Dodge List shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:54 PM Subject: SD Which one should I use? I have two Garrett compressor housings that I have to choose from to convert my T1 to T2. One has been ported, but I'm not sure if it was the right thing to do. Which one would you guys suggest that I use? Thanks for you input! Heres the link to the pics of them. http://216.49.242.223/garrett.html - Get your basically free Xbox 360 right here!! http://xbox360s.freepay.com/?r=25388067 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD s60
I think you're best bet would be to buy a tank for an 89 TBI omni. It has a little cup thing inside of it to prevent the fuel pump from starving while cornering and such. That is what we ended up putting on our Shelby Charger. Sean B - Original Message - From: Nick Foster [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 8:43 AM Subject: SD s60 hi everyone.im just about to finish of my glh build up and i have a s60 fuel pump that i just bought. my car was a carbed one but i put in a 2.5 turbo and i see that it says on ddg that u need to change the fuel tank to install a turbo.well i was wondering what the best approach is from my point.do i still need to change my tank to get this pump to work?is there a site with a walkthrough out there?any help would be great. thanks nick foster `86 GLH 2.5T _ Powerful Parental Controls Let your child discover the best the Internet has to offer. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-capage=byoa/premxAPID=1994DI=1034SU=http://hotmail.com/encaHL=Market_MSNIS_Taglines Start enjoying all the benefits of MSN. Premium right now and get the first two months FREE*. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD NOS Shelby Charger decals
I thought I'd offer them up here first, before I try ebay. I have a set of NOS decals for a shelby charger They are the two SHELBY decals for behind the doors, I had originally bought them because a pressure washer took mine away from me, but never used them. The part number on them is T445BA1. price is 50 us shipped anywhere. Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Stalling Problem
Either you forgot to hook up the speed/distance sensor or there's a bad connection there. If your speedo is working, then your sensor is good. Sean B - Original Message - From: Brian Bauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 8:16 AM Subject: SD Stalling Problem I just finished assembling my 1987 TII Daytona. I purchased the car as a daily driver with no engine. I purchased a 2.5 turbo engine for it. I have everything together, hooked up, and running; however, I am having a problem. After driving it a little, the engine will die whenever I come to a stop. It starts right back up with no problem. It does this even if I push the clutch in while going down the road, instead of comming to an idle it will just shut off. Upon a restart, it will idle just fine until it has been driven a little and I come to another stop... then it dies again. I also found that if I give it a good rev right after I push the clutch in, then it will idle just fine when it is stopped. Does anyone have any ideas? Brian ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Stalling Problem
Check for codes, I believe its 15 for the speed/distance sensor, or you can simply turn the ignition on, and push the car (engine not running) And I believe the check engine light will flash, or come on, if the sensor is working properly. Something like that. Sean - Original Message - From: Brian Bauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 1:25 PM Subject: Re: SD Stalling Problem My speedo is not working either. I did hook up the the sensor, but the speedo didn't work. Last time I rode in the car, before it was mine, the speedo worked fine. I used the same transmission and wiring that was in it previously. I did notice that the wiring for the speed / distance sensor was spliced. In the box of spare parts I acquired with the car I also noticed a different style plug pigtail that had the same two colored wires as the speed distance sensor plug that was spliced onto the harness. I didn't question the splice at first, as the wiring colors on the plug and the harness matched, but I am starting to think that it could have been wired incorrectly, especially after seeing a different looking connector pigtail that was cut off of the harness. Which harness does the speed / distance sensor connect to? Right now, it is wired into the same harness that the reverse light switch, and the transmission ground is wired. That connects to the main harness by the battery in an 8 position (2 rows of 4) white colored connector. Is this correct? I was unaware that problem could be related to an idle problem which is why I never mentioned it in my last email. Is there anyway to pinpoint if the wiring or the speed sensor is bad aside of buying another sensor and trying that? Brian Brian Either you forgot to hook up the speed/distance sensor or there's a bad connection there. If your speedo is working, then your sensor is good. Sean B - Original Message - From: Brian Bauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 8:16 AM Subject: SD Stalling Problem I just finished assembling my 1987 TII Daytona. I purchased the car as a daily driver with no engine. I purchased a 2.5 turbo engine for it. I have everything together, hooked up, and running; however, I am having a problem. After driving it a little, the engine will die whenever I come to a stop. It starts right back up with no problem. It does this even if I push the clutch in while going down the road, instead of comming to an idle it will just shut off. Upon a restart, it will idle just fine until it has been driven a little and I come to another stop... then it dies again. I also found that if I give it a good rev right after I push the clutch in, then it will idle just fine when it is stopped. Does anyone have any ideas? Brian ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD two piece intake question
Does anybody know if the 87 glhs came with a 2-piece intake? I'm going to T-2 my Shelby charger and was wondering if the 2-piece intake will fit under the hood of it. I seem to remember that it sticks up a little higher than the late T1 intake. And I've got 3 of them, so I might as well use it if I can. LMK Sean ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD 16 pumpers FS-----Really nice shape with 75% tires on them!
Guys, I've been holding onto these for almost two years now, I doubt that I'll ever need them again so here goes, The pumpers have 205/55/16 on them that are only 3 years old and have prolly 75% tread left on them, The rims were always taken off the car in the winters. So they are in really nice shape, and I also have all 4 of the CS center caps for them. Would like to see 400 cdn. for them all, but I negotiate as well! Don't really fell like shipping them and they are located in Pembroke Ont. Later, Sean ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Fw: SD How to tell if the fuel filter is clogged
OK, so we've ruled out the fuel filter(replaced it) And I've checked all the timing, cam and distributor, checked the shutter, it's fine. I guess the next thing will be to replace or check to see if there is any condensation in the map line. A few guys have mentioned this one. However the car is boosting better with the fuel filter changed, but it's still very slow boost, and it just doesn't feel like boost! You know that nice pull after the boost gauge goes into boost? Mine don't have it, It almost feels like it's an N/A car, but the boost gauge is showing me 10psi! The joy's of owning old relic's!! Thanks for all the advice! Sean - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 12:45 PM Subject: RE: SD How to tell if the fuel filter is clogged How is the fuel pressure? It should stay steady at about 46psi at idle. What happens to the fuel pressure when you get into boost? It should stay at a 1:1 ratio of boost to fuel pressure How is the shutter in the distributor? It shouldn't be loose. Electrical connectors under the hood? Grounds? Sensors? Vacuum lines? Cam, followers, lifters and timing belt? On my Sundance, it showed the same symptoms (still does in some part) and to help resolve it, I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and rubber lines. Then I replaced the collapsed lifters in the head and of course did a full tune up (it needed it). Along the way I've cleaned up all of the connectors in the engine bay (had a charging issue that this resolved) Now its gone from barely hitting 7-9psi when it feels like it to pulling a solid 11psi (with a T1/auto car, every PSI counts, LOL). Of course the spool up is still very slow but that's because the bearings in the turbo are shot, but once the car is moving and the turbo is spinning it comes on just fine. Of course the turbo is next after I get some suspension work done :) Good luck, Stefan Mullikin Portland, OR Co-Founder PNW-SDAC http://www.pnw-sdac.org 1980 Fiat X-1/9 1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2 1987 Plymouth Sundance Turbo 1987 Shelby CSX #106 1988 Shelby CSX-T #3 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sean B. Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 7:37 PM To: SDML Subject: SD How to tell if the fuel filter is clogged How would one figure out if they had a clogged fuel filter? The car is an 87 Shelby Charger, All stock T1. The problem is that it boosts very slowly, and when it does boost (sometimes it won't) It bucks and falls on it's face! I've checked the timing, dropped the exhaust and took it for a ride, still boosts very slowly ( I was thinking a clogged cat) It's starting to drive me batty! The car doesn't start worth a crap when it's cold either. Thats what leading me to believe it's fuel related. Any ideas? Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Arp head studs-- installation question
Just wondering, how do we torque these? The same as the factory specs? Also need to know what size of tap I need to clean out the threads in the block. As far as I know, I will need to clean out the threads, use oil on the studs, and put them in hand tight, then torque them. Does this sound proper? LMK Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD BOV question
I've got the turbo XS BOV in my car, and holy geez it's loud! It's the rfl as well! Depends what you are going for! If you're looking to get noticed and scare the crap outta people walking on the streets, then go with the XS. If I'm driving around late at night, 2-3 am, I tend to take it a little easy with mu car, just because it so loud! But I love it. Sean - Original Message - From: Richard Paul [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: SDML [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 12:04 AM Subject: SD BOV question I am deciding what type of BOV to put on my T3 Caravan. Has anybody run one of the Bosch ones (Porsche Audi I think) ? I am considering one of those or a Turbo XS one. Richard Paul ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Positive Impressions? Stiil out there
Has anyone heard from Dave lately? I am looking to buy a decal kit for my Shelby Charger, and have yet to get a hold of him! Just wondering? I've tried emailing, but still no luck. Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD need help with wastegate actuator, 30psi yikes!!!!
You need to make the arm longer! Sean - Original Message - From: Mike Platt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Shelby list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 10:06 PM Subject: SD need help with wastegate actuator, 30psi yikes I just installed an adjustable wastegate actuator yesterday in place of my weak stock unit which would only manage 9psi boost. With some work with mirrors, wrenches,and pliers I got the new one hooked up. Anywho, my first test drive yielded massive quick boost to 30 psi before it dumped out. Some lighter runs blew a hose off the valve cover, getting me a 2500 rpm idle. I fixed that and watched the boost carefully till I got home. Which way to I adjust actuator? and is there a set location to start with. I set the length of arm the same as the stock unit to start. This is not easy to get to on a GLHS so I'd hate to go in there 10 times to get it right. Thanks!!! Mike (glad to have boostus maximus back) P 1986 GLHS#134 - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Sound of a sized Intermediate shaft U-joint
I've had one go bad, but it didn't sound anything like that! The only sound I got was a clicking sound when you would take off from a stop. Sounds like you might have a wheel bearing going? BUt usually they just keep getting louder and louder, as time goes on. Are your axles in decent shape? A worn inner joint will give you some strange noises similar to that, It tends to feel like the car shimmy's a bit. Sean - Original Message - From: Paul T. Standaert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: SDML [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 8:42 PM Subject: SD Sound of a sized Intermediate shaft U-joint My Lebaron has been making a sort of noise for about the last 10,000 miles, and it seems to have gotten slightly worse this year. Its sorta a bbrrr noise almost like when you run over the millions of indentations on the edge of some highways to wake up sleepy drivers, except not nearly that loud. It likes to make noise at cruise right around 80 mph. It'll go BBR for like 2.5 secs, go away for about the same amount of time and then BB again and it repeats indefinitely as long as speed is kept constant. I think it goes away when you let off the gas. I had a RWD car years ago that made a very similar noise, and I blamed it on driveshaft U-joints (which turned out to be quite frozen) but never had the car long enough to find out for sure that was the problem after I replaced them. I'm thinking (hoping) that this is an issue with intermediate shaft u-joint. It is 13 years old , with 130,000 miles, no grease zerk. Hmm. My experience says this joint is shot. There is no play in it however. But would it cause this noise? __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Anyone know of any other 85 t-tops out there still?
Yep, My friend has one up here in Pembroke, Ontario. Originally it was a burgundy with the silver on the bottom of it, T tops, Power windows + mirrors. It's the only one I've seen too. Sean B - Original Message - From: Mike Sebastian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 8:09 AM Subject: SD Anyone know of any other 85 t-tops out there still? Hi all, a while ago, I posted a few questions about my 85 t-top, and how rare it is/was, (391 out of 8023 turbo-zs made for 85), etcetc..etc. Thanks to Mike Pascali and his standard catalog of Chrysler 1924-1990 So you all tell me, are the numbered cars that rare? (no mine was not signed by Carroll Shelby OR Lee Iacocca) but my question now is: Anyone else out here have an 85-t-top turbo-z? (not a laser XT, as it was considered a 85-1/2), Mine is still around and with 80,000 miles on the original motor/trans, and it has a long way to go! :-) Thanks, Mike ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD bags in 89
Must be a Southern thing thing with the airbags, Up here in canada, I've personally never seen an 89 with an air bag, Even my 90 with the newer style interior didn't have them, But my 90 TBI parts car does. 90 must have been a really strange year, cause theres another 90 TBI for sale near here, but's it's got the newer front and rear ends! Go figure. Sean - Original Message - From: geoff rolling [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: sdml [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:55 AM Subject: SD bags in 89 niether my '89 daytona shelby or my '89 daytona c/s ags had an airbag. the ags was was so stripped down of every wieght saving part it wasnt funny, no a/c no airbag, no power anything. the only thing was the rear spoiler. Jeff - Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD New Shelby Dodge Registry
It's true though, I've tried to add my 87 CSX to that list twice now within the last two years, and still waiting.. Sean - Original Message - From: Brian Schulteis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 9:14 PM Subject: Re: SD New Shelby Dodge Registry If there's no connection, why do you support a guy that has run the list so poorly? Is it simply because he was running the list first? What'd that previous post say, 4 years without his car being added to the list? That's unacceptable, it's too bad he had to wait till everyone was ready to lynch him and start a new list before he got off his arse and started updating his site. If it's even true that he's started to update the site, as actions speak louder than words. Maybe you can explain the reasoning behind keeping Bill in charge of the almost defunct list. I'm all ears. On 5/23/05, Barry Goodall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I appreciate the emotion you have for your opinion Alex, but there is at least one fact below that you have wrong. There is no connection between the management of SDAC and the Shelby Registry. In the past, SDAC has supported this mailing list and the Shelby Registry monetarily and probably will do so again in the future. Beyond that there is no connection between SDAC and the entities Bill Yohman oversees. Oh wait, yeah there is too, Bill is a member of SDAC. Barry Goodall President, Shelby Dodge Auto Club I say it's a great effort and more power to you. SDAC and Shelby Registry falling into the hands of a-hole A.K.A. Bill Yolman was the worst thing that every happened to Shelby Dodges. Any info and data that was shared him he now considers his own and imposes his own rules on it. Screw him. Just need to register a better name for the site, that's all. Alex... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Question bout octane
So everyone know's that the higher the octane, the more boost you can add to it, but why is that? If I dump some 115 in my car will my EGT's drop? I'm currently running 18 psi on 91 Octane fuel, and seeing an egt reading of 1500 up around 200km an hour. From what I've heard the higher the octane, the harder the fuel is to ignite, So one would think that it should lower EGT's but enough to run like 25 psi? Just wondering Sean ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Looking for amplified speaker
Does anyone happen to have one 5.25 amplified speaker kicking around that they would like to get rid of? The speaker itself can be trashed, as I just need the amplifier part. Mine crapped out on me! LMK Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD crank no start
I would definately agree that it's timing related. If you're getting spark, then the dist must be turning, as this is what triggers the spark. What about a weak coil? Seen that before, had spark off the coil wire, but not enough to jump the contacts in the dist. Later, Sean B - Original Message - From: Mike D. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2005 6:36 PM Subject: RE: SD crank no start have you had the distributor out to see if the oil pump drive slot is spinningand spinning normally/evenly while cranking? is the rotor pointing at #1 when it's supposed to be pointing at #1? (the distributor can be 180 degrees off in these cars if i'm not mistaken) mike '87 CSX #481 From: Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Shelby Dodge [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD crank no start Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 12:19:08 -0400 First - thanks for all the suggestions so far - this car would be in the boneyard if it weren't for this group! Okay - here is where I am at. Changed out throttle body sensor. no luck - pulled timing cover - appears to be okay. Spark is coming from coil (OUCH!). Getting injector pulse (tested with injector test light). Fuel pressure 58 swapped three computers so far. Thanks...Tim ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD misc parts FS for 91 daytona's and barons
A few items up for sale on Ebay. look up 7970485427 A couple radio bezels,power lock switches,and some speaker grilles. Later, Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD WTB Intermediate shaft for large spline axle on 89 Daytona
Looking for an intermediate shaft for an 89 Daytona with the bigger axles. Preferably one with a decent bearing in it would be nice. Later, Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD WTB: DRivers side fender extension 4 Shelby Charger
Still looking for one. Sean B - Original Message - From: Sean B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: SDML shelby-dodge@sdml.org Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 3:21 PM Subject: SD WTB: DRivers side fender extension 4 Shelby Charger I'm looking for a drivers side fender extension for an 87 Shelby Charger, Any body have one for sale, please LMK Thanks, Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD WTB: DRivers side fender extension 4 Shelby Charger
I'm looking for a drivers side fender extension for an 87 Shelby Charger, Any body have one for sale, please LMK Thanks, Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD 8v to 8v neon head
Is there anybody out there considering this? The SOHC neon head still has 16 valves and is supposed to offer more low end grunt than the DOHC head. I have been contemplating trying this conversion. any input or ideas? Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD MP high volume oil pump into 89 CB
Does anybody know if the MP high volume oil pump will work in an 89 Common block? I thought I read somewhere that it doesn't work in the commonblock engine. Cna anybody confirm this? Or has anybody tried this yet? Sean B ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Clunking noise
Yep, it was a whoops! Dis is what I wanted to say originally! snip Almost guarantee it's the sway bar bushings. Both my last two Daytona's had the same problem, and I changed everything on the first one, struts, strut mounts ball joints and the tie rods, By this time I was pissed, dropped the sway bar and the friggin clunks went away! Get the Poly bush's from Johnny Spiva! Excellent stuff! Later, Sean Boire 86 Daytona Turbo Z C/S 87 CSX #187 87 Shelby Charger 89 Daytona ES, T-top 2.5L turbo 98 Neon EX Parts Cars!! 2 86 Turbo Z 's 87 Shelby Z 89 Daytona TBI car 89 Omlet TBI car 90 Le Baron TBI car 91 Daytona TBI car - Original Message - From: Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Sean B [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 9:17 PM Subject: RE: SD Clunking noise Whoops? LOL -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sean B Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 6:09 PM To: SDML Subject: Re: SD Clunking noise - Original Message - From: joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 9:02 PM Subject: Re: SD Clunking noise I can get KYB mounts from work for 23$ if that is the problem. I will try the bushings first though because they are like 10$ at work. I have a strut bar already for the front. I think after wheels/tires those 2 pieces will be next, thanks for the link! Joe - Original Message - From: Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; joe [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 6:51 PM Subject: RE: SD Clunking noise These really help with the handling on K-based cars http://mywebpages.comcast.net/csracer/products.html Combined with a front strut tower brace (Use a Nissan 240SX bar or buy one from FWD Perforamnce.com) You don't really need to add much past the stock Daytona Shelby parts to embarass most cars on the road. Good luck! Stefan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 3:41 PM To: 'joe'; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: SD Clunking noise I had the same issue with my 91 Daytona. I noticed it most when I would go over some railroad tracks near my work. My problem turned out to be bad bushings on the stabilizer bar. Once the work was complete, it hasn't made a sound. Hope this helps. Mike PS - I also changed out the strut mounts before I did the bushings. The damn things were rusted beyond repair (rubber coated steel - steel rots from within). Had to drive all around Dallas to find them. Once it was done, the freaking sound was still there! Try the bushings first and see what happens. Those bushings are a lot cheaper than the strut mounts. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of joe Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 6:02 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Clunking noise Left front it's coming from, when I'm over a bump -CLUNK. Strut mounts? Ball joints are good. Had them replaced today along with my o2 sensor. Are strut mounts something I can do myself? Another thingI could think of is the bobble-strut? 88 Shelby Z T2 A-555 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
