Re: CSGetting Started

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

You couldn't do better Jeff, my one even survived being dropped on  
hard tiles! (although I wouldn't recommend this of course if it could  
be avoided!)  dee


On 5 Nov 2009, at 00:00, Jeff Maahs wrote:


Thank you for your help.

The more I learn about this the more I think the Silver puppy is the  
way to go for consistent batches. I'll have to see if my wife will  
get me one for Christmas. :)


Jeff

Re: CSGetting Started

[Ode Coyote]

  Conductivity [uS] is conductivity, so 442, NaCl and KCl is irrelevant.
 The uS conductivity number closely corresponds to the PPM number ..after 
the conductivity stops dropping...up to around 30 uSas derived by $$ 
Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometer tests $$ done on samples averaging 12 
PPM @ 87% ionic as the middle of a range.
 Little or no Tyndall Effect, [as seen in a laser beam] fudge the number 
down some...heavy dense TE fudge it up some, to compensate for the 
unreadable particulates.


 Beyond 30 uS water solubility limits create conditions where conductivity 
measuring is **pretty** much useless but can still offer some hints when 
taken before it drops.


 Using constant current means a linear ion emission rate, so plotting 
conductivity rise over time at a given current, you can extend that line 
past 30 uS where it starts going non linear with unreadable particle 
formation and predict PPM as uS that can't be read.
 But a second uS drop back chart would make that a lot more accurate and 
that's probably not linear and would take many time stabilized batches to 
compile.


Some say that Faraday Equations correspond with conductivity measurements, 
but Faraday doesn't account for waste products...ie  where the silver is.
 Obviously, not all of it stays in the water. [Yet another chart to 
average in? ]


 BUT

In the REAL world where application is pure common sense intuition and no 
dosing recommendations make any sense at all because every person and every 
application is unique, ballpark is good enough.

 It's nearly impossible to over do and the major difference is just water.
 A particle too big to get out, never gets in and the sizes range all over 
the place in any given batch.  Your body has a great and intelligent 
filtration system if IT is working properly...and if it isn't, you'll 
likely be having some other much more serious problems than turning blue.


A Claymore mine and a sniper rifle do the same job when the scenery doesn't 
care.


 Do what works and if it doesn't, do it different till it does..and if it 
STILL doesn't, do something else as well. [Like, toss in some DMSO and eat 
a lot of carrots]


 When you forget that you need to, you are done. [Until something reminds 
you, if it does ]


Ode



At 06:17 PM 11/3/2009 -0800, you wrote:
Just unpacked my brand spanking new COM-100. Many cool features that I 
know nothing about. It's neat that the instructions actually mention CS.


Can someone give me the short lesson?

I'm thinking I want the mode at µS and 442. This is different than the ppm 
that is talked about. Is there any conversions I have to do for say a 10 
ppm solution? Please help me understand.


Thank you,
Jeff



From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Wed, October 21, 2009 4:48:39 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  HM Digital makes a decent PPM meter [TDS3] ..but a PPM meter isn't what
you want...they are designed to meter salt water and silver water isn't
salt water.
Looks like this one is on the low end of their line.
  A PPM meter is useful for CS ...but not very.

  Try an HM Digital EC3
http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acdhttp://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acd

or COM-100

Ode





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Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

Thank you for your help.

The more I learn about this the more I think the Silver puppy is the way to go 
for consistent batches. I'll have to see if my wife will get me one for 
Christmas. :)

Jeff






From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Wed, November 4, 2009 9:21:01 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  Conductivity [uS] is conductivity, so 442, NaCl and KCl is irrelevant.
The uS conductivity number closely corresponds to the PPM number ..after the 
conductivity stops dropping...up to around 30 uSas derived by $$ Atomic 
Absorption Spectrophotometer tests $$ done on samples averaging 12 PPM @ 87% 
ionic as the middle of a range.
Little or no Tyndall Effect, [as seen in a laser beam] fudge the number down 
some...heavy dense TE fudge it up some, to compensate for the unreadable 
particulates.

Beyond 30 uS water solubility limits create conditions where conductivity 
measuring is **pretty** much useless but can still offer some hints when taken 
before it drops.

Using constant current means a linear ion emission rate, so plotting 
conductivity rise over time at a given current, you can extend that line past 
30 uS where it starts going non linear with unreadable particle formation and 
predict PPM as uS that can't be read.
But a second uS drop back chart would make that a lot more accurate and that's 
probably not linear and would take many time stabilized batches to compile.

Some say that Faraday Equations correspond with conductivity measurements, but 
Faraday doesn't account for waste products...ie  where the silver is.
Obviously, not all of it stays in the water. [Yet another chart to average in? ]

BUT

In the REAL world where application is pure common sense intuition and no 
dosing recommendations make any sense at all because every person and every 
application is unique, ballpark is good enough.
It's nearly impossible to over do and the major difference is just water.
A particle too big to get out, never gets in and the sizes range all over the 
place in any given batch.  Your body has a great and intelligent filtration 
system if IT is working properly...and if it isn't, you'll likely be having 
some other much more serious problems than turning blue.

A Claymore mine and a sniper rifle do the same job when the scenery doesn't 
care.

Do what works and if it doesn't, do it different till it does..and if it STILL 
doesn't, do something else as well. [Like, toss in some DMSO and eat a lot of 
carrots]

When you forget that you need to, you are done. [Until something reminds you, 
if it does ]

Ode



At 06:17 PM 11/3/2009 -0800, you wrote:
 Just unpacked my brand spanking new COM-100. Many cool features that I know 
 nothing about. It's neat that the instructions actually mention CS.
 
 Can someone give me the short lesson?
 
 I'm thinking I want the mode at µS and 442. This is different than the ppm 
 that is talked about. Is there any conversions I have to do for say a 10 ppm 
 solution? Please help me understand.
 
 Thank you,
 Jeff
 
 
 
 From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Wed, October 21, 2009 4:48:39 AM
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
 
 
 
   HM Digital makes a decent PPM meter [TDS3] ..but a PPM meter isn't what
 you want...they are designed to meter salt water and silver water isn't
 salt water.
 Looks like this one is on the low end of their line.
   A PPM meter is useful for CS ...but not very.
 
   Try an HM Digital EC3
 http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acdhttp://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acd
 
 or COM-100
 
 Ode
 
 


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Re: CSGetting Started

[Craig Chamberlin]

Get her one for Thanksgiving:)

Jeff Maahs wrote:

  
  
  Thank you for your help.
  
The more I learn about this the more I think the Silver puppy is the
way to go for consistent batches. I'll have to see if my wife will get
me one for Christmas. :)
  
Jeff
  
  






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List maintainer: Mike Devour 
   

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

Just unpacked my brand spanking new COM-100. Many cool features that I know 
nothing about. It's neat that the instructions actually mention CS.

Can someone give me the short lesson? 

I'm thinking I want the mode at µS and 442. This is different than the ppm that 
is talked about. Is there any conversions I have to do for say a 10 ppm 
solution? Please help me understand.

Thank you,
Jeff






From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Wed, October 21, 2009 4:48:39 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



   HM Digital makes a decent PPM meter [TDS3] ..but a PPM meter isn't what 
you want...they are designed to meter salt water and silver water isn't 
salt water.
Looks like this one is on the low end of their line.
  A PPM meter is useful for CS ...but not very.

  Try an HM Digital EC3
http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acd

or COM-100

Ode


  

RE: CSGetting Started

[Neville Munn]

Yep, not precise or 100% accurate remember, but you get a pretty good idea, 
beats having no idea at all, and if you keep records you can back reference to 
see how all the batches compare with each other using similar brew times, water 
volumes and temp etc etc.

 

Then come the day when one CAN have some samples analysed you can look at your 
records and see how inaccurate meters can be compared to laboratory equipment, 
but as we don't live in a perfect world it doesn't matter all that much is the 
way I look at it, gives me a feeling of knowing what I'm doing and that's all 
that counts, like a kid sucking on a dummy, gives them that 'safe' and 
'comforted' feeling g.

 

N.
 


From: blacksa...@comcast.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSGetting Started
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 20:00:15 -0400









I think I got that *same* one on ebay – so you’re saying we double that number? 
(Coming out at about 12-14ppm it would be twice that)?
 
L
 




From: Neville Munn [mailto:one.red...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 7:56 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSGetting Started
 
I use several meters, EC, PPM etc and I got a couple of ordinary ppm meters 
(for family) from over USA way for about 14 dollars each on ebay.  My 
comparison records to EC meters etc are quite adequate, just double the reading 
on a ppm meter gets me in the ballpark as a home producer, commercial solutions 
would probably need more accurate testing equipment, but for the home producer 
they're fine, at least one isn't 'feeling their way around in the dark', meters 
are a false sense of security anyway without laboratory analysis, but what the 
heck, near enough g.
 
N.
 



Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:15:20 -0700
From: jrf...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
To: silver-list@eskimo.com


http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700

 




From: Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 7:18:20 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started


It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was well 
over $100. 

I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?

Jeff





 




From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a 
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt 
water.

Ode



 
 



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Re: CSGetting Started

[Ode Coyote]

  $43.70 isn't too bad and maybe not a bad meter,  but you can do better.

Not sure what the measurement range is.  EC isn't a unit of electrical 
conductivity so far as I know so  0- 20 EC  doesn't mean anything to me.
 The spec should be in micro [uS] or milli -siemens [mS]  or, like, mS/CC 
of EC or uS/CC of EC


 You would want a slightly higher range than 20 uS and better resolution 
than mS increments.
 Since the PPM range is 20,000 PPM, that indicates that EC is in Milli 
Siemens or even Siemens


This one for $22.98 looks more suited..and it comes out of Florida vs Hong 
Kong.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-EC-Conductivity-Meter-Tester-Water-1999-s-cm_W0QQitemZ140347674771QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ad5f9093


  Specifications:
   * LCD display: 4 digits
   * Measure Range: 0 ~ 1999 ¼s/cm
   * Resolution: 1 us/cm
   * Accuracy: ± 2% full scale
   * Operating Temperature: 0 ~ 50 °C (32 ~ 122 °F)
   * Power: 2 x CR2032 watch-type batteries included.
   * Item size: approx. 150 (L) x 27 (W) x 20 (D) mm (5.91' x 1.06' x 
0.79' inch)

   * Item weight: approx. 46g with batteries installed.
   * Calibrated at factory
   * This listing does not include calibration fluid. 
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=ec+meter_in_kw=1_ex_kw=_sacat=See-All-Categories_okw=ec+meter_oexkw=_udlo=_udhi=_ftrt=901_ftrv=1_sabdlo=_sabdhi=_samilow=_samihi=_sadis=200_fpos=Zip+code_fsct=LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0_fss=1fsradio=%26LH_SpecificSeller%3D1_saslop=1_sasl=zmatt14_sop=12_dmd=1_ipg=50Click 
here for EC meter listings that do for a few dollars more.

   * Supplied with a mini-screw driver for calibration
   * Automatic temperature compensation
You can get a proven brand name EC meter [HM Digital] for $30, free shipping.

Ode


At 05:18 AM 10/20/2009 -0700, you wrote:
It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was 
well over $100.


I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbnhttp://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate 
for these solutions?


Jeff






From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt
water.

Ode






--
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Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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Re: CSGetting Started

[Ode Coyote]

  HM Digital makes a decent PPM meter [TDS3] ..but a PPM meter isn't what 
you want...they are designed to meter salt water and silver water isn't 
salt water.

Looks like this one is on the low end of their line.
 A PPM meter is useful for CS ...but not very.

 Try an HM Digital EC3
http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acd

or COM-100

Ode


At 04:15 PM 10/20/2009 -0700, you wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700


From: Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 7:18:20 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was 
well over $100.


I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?


Jeff






From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt
water.

Ode







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Re: CSGetting Started

[Ode Coyote]

  Yup

Ode

At 05:12 PM 10/20/2009 -0700, you wrote:
I just got back after buying this one - 
http://tinyurl.com/ygwxnvhhttp://tinyurl.com/ygwxnvh (ZeroWater Z-Tester 
TDS Meter). They didn't have the meter by itself but for $5 more I had to 
get their purifying jug that comes with the meter. Oh well.


I just measured my latest batch and it shows 9ppm so being a TDS meter 
it's about 20ppm?


Jeff




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Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

This is great info. After seeing the price at one web site I thought they were 
all very expensive.

Since I still have the packaging I'm going to return the one I bought and get 
one of the ones you mention.

Thank you all!

Jeff








From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Wed, October 21, 2009 4:22:10 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

  $43.70 isn't too bad and maybe not a bad meter,  but you can do better.

Not sure what the measurement range is.  EC isn't a unit of electrical 
conductivity so far as I know so  0- 20 EC  doesn't mean anything to me.
The spec should be in micro [uS] or milli -siemens [mS]  or, like, mS/CC of EC 
or uS/CC of EC

You would want a slightly higher range than 20 uS and better resolution than mS 
increments.
Since the PPM range is 20,000 PPM, that indicates that EC is in Milli Siemens 
or even Siemens

This one for $22.98 looks more suited..and it comes out of Florida vs Hong Kong.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-EC-Conductivity-Meter-Tester-Water-1999-s-cm_W0QQitemZ140347674771QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ad5f9093


  Specifications:
   * LCD display: 4 digits
   * Measure Range: 0 ~ 1999 ¼s/cm
   * Resolution: 1 us/cm
   * Accuracy: ± 2% full scale
   * Operating Temperature: 0 ~ 50 °C (32 ~ 122 °F)
   * Power: 2 x CR2032 watch-type batteries included.
   * Item size: approx. 150 (L) x 27 (W) x 20 (D) mm (5.91' x 1.06' x 0.79' 
inch)
   * Item weight: approx. 46g with batteries installed.
   * Calibrated at factory
   * This listing does not include calibration fluid. 
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=ec+meter_in_kw=1_ex_kw=_sacat=See-All-Categories_okw=ec+meter_oexkw=_udlo=_udhi=_ftrt=901_ftrv=1_sabdlo=_sabdhi=_samilow=_samihi=_sadis=200_fpos=Zip+code_fsct=LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0_fss=1fsradio=%26LH_SpecificSeller%3D1_saslop=1_sasl=zmatt14_sop=12_dmd=1_ipg=50Click
 here for EC meter listings that do for a few dollars more.
   * Supplied with a mini-screw driver for calibration
   * Automatic temperature compensation
You can get a proven brand name EC meter [HM Digital] for $30, free shipping.

Ode


At 05:18 AM 10/20/2009 -0700, you wrote:
 It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
 previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was well 
 over $100.
 
 I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
 (http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbnhttp://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for 
 these solutions?
 
 Jeff
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
 
 
 
   You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup
 that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
 Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for
 voltage to tell you anything.
   In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a
 constant.
 
   A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt
 water.
 
 Ode
 
 
 


--
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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com


  

RE: CSGetting Started

[Neville Munn]

Here's a couple of comparison figures in three meters I dug up from my notes:
 
HM Digital Com100EC/TDS/TEMP...KCluS13.5, HM Digital ComTDS3...006ppm, 
HannaTDS1...007ppm


HM Digital Com100EC/TDS/TEMP...KCluS12.3, HM Digital ComTDS3...006ppm, 
HannaTDS1...007ppm

 

N.
 
 Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 04:48:39 -0400
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 From: odecoy...@windstream.net
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
 
 
 
 HM Digital makes a decent PPM meter [TDS3] ..but a PPM meter isn't what 
 you want...they are designed to meter salt water and silver water isn't 
 salt water.
 Looks like this one is on the low end of their line.
 A PPM meter is useful for CS ...but not very.
 
 Try an HM Digital EC3
 http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-EC-3-Temp-Water-Conductivity-Tester-Meter_W0QQitemZ220494392013QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33567d6acd
 
 or COM-100
 
 Ode
 
 
 At 04:15 PM 10/20/2009 -0700, you wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700
 
 
 From: Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 7:18:20 AM
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
 
 It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
 previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was 
 well over $100.
 
 I hate to be a pain but would a meter such as this one on ebay 
 (http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?
 
 Jeff
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
 
 
 
  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup
 that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
 Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for
 voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a
 constant.
 
  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt
 water.
 
 Ode
 
 
 
 
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
 Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
 
 The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
 
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com
 
 

  
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Re: CSGetting Started

[Ode Coyote]

  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
 In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a 
constant.


 A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt 
water.


Ode



At 09:59 AM 10/19/2009 -0500, you wrote:

115 mA is definitely too much.  Unless you mean 115 uA.

115 mA for 10 minutes in 1 liter of water gives 77ppm.

If it really is 115 mA I would suspect that your water (cell) is contaminated.

Dan



On Sun, Oct 18, 2009 at 3:53 PM, Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I just checked and it's running 155mA. I'll go get a pot as suggested.

 Does anyone know of a way to check ppm using voltage or conductivity
 somehow? As it is now I have no idea what my current batch would be.

 I'm not getting any cloudiness this time. I wonder if I didn't rinse the
 glass enough with dw the first time.


 
 From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Sun, October 18, 2009 3:45:27 PM
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

 Sort of- it looks like your current may be on the high side, otherwise it
 would not be so much. It is normal- the water electrolyzes, the silver 
picks

 it up and it turns to the gunk you see. To control the amount of gunk, you
 can control the current  more. That you can do with a resistor, diode or
 potentiometer in series.
 If you clip your wires to a multimeter set to measure milliamps, it should
 read zero when you start- that means there is no current flowing 
through the

 water to speak of. As the silver ions continue to  go into the water, the
 conductivity increases and the current flow increases along with that. I
 forget what the details are (read formula is), but less than 1 mA 
current is

 a good idea if your silver surface area is under a certain - yours looks
 close to mine, and 1mA is what I am using. Just looking to see what the
 current is gives you some clues.
 I got a 75 ohm potentiometer at the surplus store  and put it in series to
 keep a lid on the current. Maybe it was a dollar.
 Kathryn

 On Oct 18, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Jeff Maahs wrote:

 I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen this 
on any

 of the videos or pictures. Is this normal?

 Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

 Thank you,
 Jeff








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The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

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Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was well 
over $100. 

I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?

Jeff









From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



   You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a 
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt 
water.

Ode


  

Re: CSGetting Started

[john freese]

http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700





From: Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 7:18:20 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started


It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was well 
over $100. 

I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?

Jeff









From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a 
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt 
water.

Ode


  

RE: CSGetting Started

[Neville Munn]

I use several meters, EC, PPM etc and I got a couple of ordinary ppm meters 
(for family) from over USA way for about 14 dollars each on ebay.  My 
comparison records to EC meters etc are quite adequate, just double the reading 
on a ppm meter gets me in the ballpark as a home producer, commercial solutions 
would probably need more accurate testing equipment, but for the home producer 
they're fine, at least one isn't 'feeling their way around in the dark', meters 
are a false sense of security anyway without laboratory analysis, but what the 
heck, near enough g.

 

N.
 


Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:15:20 -0700
From: jrf...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
To: silver-list@eskimo.com





http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700





From: Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 7:18:20 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen 
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was well 
over $100. 

I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?

Jeff









From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a 
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt 
water.

Ode





  
_
Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how here
http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454

RE: CSGetting Started

[Lisa]

I think I got that *same* one on ebay - so you're saying we double that
number? (Coming out at about 12-14ppm it would be twice that)?

 

L

 

  _  

From: Neville Munn [mailto:one.red...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 7:56 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSGetting Started

 

I use several meters, EC, PPM etc and I got a couple of ordinary ppm meters
(for family) from over USA way for about 14 dollars each on ebay.  My
comparison records to EC meters etc are quite adequate, just double the
reading on a ppm meter gets me in the ballpark as a home producer,
commercial solutions would probably need more accurate testing equipment,
but for the home producer they're fine, at least one isn't 'feeling their
way around in the dark', meters are a false sense of security anyway without
laboratory analysis, but what the heck, near enough g.
 
N.
 

  _  

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:15:20 -0700
From: jrf...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
To: silver-list@eskimo.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W
0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb770
0

 

  _  

From: Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 7:18:20 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

It looks like EC meters are much less expensive than what I had seen
previously. One of the sites given to me earlier had a meter but it was well
over $100. 

I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate for these solutions?

Jeff





 

  _  

From: Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that's always the same as referenced by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn't be a 
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit salt 
water.

Ode




 

 

  _  

Find out how here Use
http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454  Messenger in
your Hotmail inbox

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

I just got back after buying this one - http://tinyurl.com/ygwxnvh(ZeroWater 
Z-Tester TDS Meter). They didn't have the meter by itself but for $5 more I had 
to get their purifying jug that comes with the meter. Oh well.

I just measured my latest batch and it shows 9ppm so being a TDS meter it's 
about 20ppm?

Jeff





From: Lisa blacksa...@comcast.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009 8:00:15 PM
Subject: RE: CSGetting Started

 
I think I got that *same* one on ebay – so you’re
saying we double that number? (Coming out at about 12-14ppm it would be twice
that)?
 
L
 


 
From:Neville Munn
[mailto:one.red...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009
7:56 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSGetting Started
 
I use several meters, EC, PPM etc and I got a couple
of ordinary ppm meters (for family) from over USA  way
for about 14 dollars each on ebay.  My comparison records to EC
meters etc are quite adequate, just double the reading on a ppm meter gets me
in the ballpark as a home producer, commercial solutions would probably need
more accurate testing equipment, but for the home producer they ' re fine, at 
least one isn ' t ' feeling their way around in the
dark ' , meters are a false sense of
security anyway without laboratory analysis, but what the heck, near enough
g.
 
N.
 


 
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:15:20
-0700
From: jrf...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
http://cgi.ebay.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Meter-Tester-Water-ppm-Purity-Filter_W0QQitemZ270411724544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef5cb7700
 


 
From:Jeff
Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009
7:18:20 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
It looks like EC meters are much
less expensive than what I had seen previously. One of the sites given to me
earlier had a meter but it was well over $100. 

I hate to be a pain but would  a meter such as this one on ebay 
(http://tinyurl.com/yzzzvbn) be appropriate
for these solutions?

Jeff




 


 
From:Ode
Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, October 20, 2009
6:56:17 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started



  You can use a voltmeter to tell when to stop, but only on a given setup 
that ' s always the same as referenced
by an EC meter.
Current, electrode spacing and surface exposure have to be constants for 
voltage to tell you anything.
  In *making* CS, the voltage is nearly irrelevant, so it needn ' t be a 
constant.

  A PPM meter is an EC meter that dilutes the info it gets to suit
salt 
water.

Ode



 
 


 
Find out how here Use
Messenger in your Hotmail inbox


  

Re: CSGetting Started

[Dan Nave]

115 mA is definitely too much.  Unless you mean 115 uA.

115 mA for 10 minutes in 1 liter of water gives 77ppm.

If it really is 115 mA I would suspect that your water (cell) is contaminated.

Dan



On Sun, Oct 18, 2009 at 3:53 PM, Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I just checked and it's running 155mA. I'll go get a pot as suggested.

 Does anyone know of a way to check ppm using voltage or conductivity
 somehow? As it is now I have no idea what my current batch would be.

 I'm not getting any cloudiness this time. I wonder if I didn't rinse the
 glass enough with dw the first time.


 
 From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Sun, October 18, 2009 3:45:27 PM
 Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

 Sort of- it looks like your current may be on the high side, otherwise it
 would not be so much. It is normal- the water electrolyzes, the silver picks
 it up and it turns to the gunk you see. To control the amount of gunk, you
 can control the current  more. That you can do with a resistor, diode or
 potentiometer in series.
 If you clip your wires to a multimeter set to measure milliamps, it should
 read zero when you start- that means there is no current flowing through the
 water to speak of. As the silver ions continue to  go into the water, the
 conductivity increases and the current flow increases along with that. I
 forget what the details are (read formula is), but less than 1 mA current is
 a good idea if your silver surface area is under a certain - yours looks
 close to mine, and 1mA is what I am using. Just looking to see what the
 current is gives you some clues.
 I got a 75 ohm potentiometer at the surplus store  and put it in series to
 keep a lid on the current. Maybe it was a dollar.
 Kathryn

 On Oct 18, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Jeff Maahs wrote:

 I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen this on any
 of the videos or pictures. Is this normal?

 Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

 Thank you,
 Jeff








--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...

List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSGetting Started

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

You shouldn't need amber bottles because the EIS solution should be  
clear and stable.  I don't know what you are making though, if it is  
cloudy. dee


On 18 Oct 2009, at 01:54, Jeff Maahs wrote:

 Finally made my first batch. The silver arrived today and I put  
together 4 9v batteries and started the process. Over an hour and  
nothing happened. So I moved the rods closer together and added a  
bit of the commercial CS we had bought. About 30 minutes later I  
looked and the solution was cloudy. Using a laser level I looked  
into the solution and could see the particles. No idea how  
concentrated it was though as I don't have a meter. I'd like to hear  
if there is a fairly good method.


 So we all rinsed our mouths and gargled as it had become a family  
event. I need to get some of the amber bottles and different tops now.


 We've had some interesting results with the commercial solution and  
my youngest's breathing at night. When we use the CS nose spray she  
doesn't snore or breath loudly. If we forget to have her spray we  
find out later from the snoring. She's been diagnosed with allergies  
but it happened so suddenly I'm not so convinced. It's been about 2  
weeks with the CS spray so we'll continue and see what happens.


 Jeff

 ps - sorry Garnet

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

Thank you Steve. I wonder what I read that said otherwise.

Dorothy is was just DW and Silver. Perhaps it was a high ppm? I have no way to 
judge that yet.

Jeff






From: SJY you...@relia.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sat, October 17, 2009 11:41:34 PM
Subject: RE: CSGetting Started

 
Jeff,
 
You don’t need to store your EIS/CS
in amber bottles.  Clear bottles are fine – light doesn’t
affect EIS/CS made with only distilled water and pure silver electrodes.
 
Steve Y.


  

Re: CSGetting Started

[Clayton Family]

Cloudy? What kind of water did you use?  How far apart were the  
electrodes at first, then how far apart when you moved them?  Did you  
use the laser in a dark room or was it well lit?  If you don't have a  
meter to check the conductivity of the water, do you have a multimeter  
to check the current flow and voltage?


Kathryn


On Oct 17, 2009, at 7:54 PM, Jeff Maahs wrote:

 Finally made my first batch. The silver arrived today and I put  
together 4 9v batteries and started the process. Over an hour and  
nothing happened. So I moved the rods closer together and added a  
bit of the commercial CS we had bought. About 30 minutes later I  
looked and the solution was cloudy. Using a laser level I looked  
into the solution and could see the particles. No idea how  
concentrated it was though as I don't have a meter. I'd like to hear  
if there is a fairly good method.


 So we all rinsed our mouths and gargled as it had become a family  
event. I need to get some of the amber bottles and different tops now.


 We've had some interesting results with the commercial solution and  
my youngest's breathing at night. When we use the CS nose spray she  
doesn't snore or breath loudly. If we forget to have her spray we  
find out later from the snoring. She's been diagnosed with allergies  
but it happened so suddenly I'm not so convinced. It's been about 2  
weeks with the CS spray so we'll continue and see what happens.


 Jeff

 ps - sorry Garnet

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

I used distilled water from a store.
They were about 3 inches apart and then ~1 inch when I moved them. I used a 
piece of plastic and  cut slots to hold them the inch apart. 
I turned off the light to shine the laser. 
I used a plan that calls for a light bulb in circuit but that never lit. 

I do have a multimeter I can use and would love to find out how. I'm using a 
pickle jar to make some more at the moment. 

Thanks,
Jeff








From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sun, October 18, 2009 12:02:19 PM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

Cloudy? What kind of water did you use?  How far apart were the electrodes at 
first, then how far apart when you moved them?  Did you use the laser in a dark 
room or was it well lit?  If you don't have a meter to check the conductivity 
of the water, do you have a multimeter to check the current flow and voltage? 

Kathryn


  

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen this on any of 
the videos or pictures. Is this normal?

Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

Thank you,
Jeff


  

Re: CSGetting Started

[Clayton Family]

Sort of- it looks like your current may be on the high side, otherwise  
it would not be so much. It is normal- the water electrolyzes, the  
silver picks it up and it turns to the gunk you see. To control the  
amount of gunk, you can control the current  more. That you can do  
with a resistor, diode or potentiometer in series.


If you clip your wires to a multimeter set to measure milliamps, it  
should read zero when you start- that means there is no current  
flowing through the water to speak of. As the silver ions continue to   
go into the water, the conductivity increases and the current flow  
increases along with that. I forget what the details are (read formula  
is), but less than 1 mA current is a good idea if your silver surface  
area is under a certain - yours looks close to mine, and 1mA is what I  
am using. Just looking to see what the current is gives you some clues.


I got a 75 ohm potentiometer at the surplus store  and put it in  
series to keep a lid on the current. Maybe it was a dollar.


Kathryn

On Oct 18, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Jeff Maahs wrote:



I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen  
this on any of the videos or pictures. Is this normal?


Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

Thank you,
Jeff

Re: CSGetting Started

[Clayton Family]

ok. I still don't know about the cloudy business. It may be something  
in the water to start with.


Why didn't the bulb light? Does it work at all...


On Oct 18, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Jeff Maahs wrote:



I used distilled water from a store.
They were about 3 inches apart and then ~1 inch when I moved them. I  
used a piece of plastic and cut slots to hold them the inch apart.

I turned off the light to shine the laser.
I used a plan that calls for a light bulb in circuit but that never  
lit.


I do have a multimeter I can use and would love to find out how. I'm  
using a pickle jar to make some more at the moment.


Thanks,
Jeff




From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sun, October 18, 2009 12:02:19 PM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

Cloudy? What kind of water did you use?  How far apart were the  
electrodes at first, then how far apart when you moved them?  Did  
you use the laser in a dark room or was it well lit?  If you don't  
have a meter to check the conductivity of the water, do you have a  
multimeter to check the current flow and voltage?


Kathryn

Re: CSGetting Started

[Larry Biggar]

Hi Kathryn, since your talking about D.C. current. As current passes from pole 
to pole. It passes the minerals too. Just wipe off eccess and switch polarity 
each time. Keeping current to less than 1 amp decreases particulant size. 
Voltage really doesn't matter. My Silver Puppy uses SWAP mode to achieve A.C. 
which does the same thing automaticly. Hope this helps. Just remember ohms law. 
Larry


--- On Sun, 10/18/09, Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com wrote:


From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 12:45 PM


Sort of- it looks like your current may be on the high side, otherwise it would 
not be so much. It is normal- the water electrolyzes, the silver picks it up 
and it turns to the gunk you see. To control the amount of gunk, you can 
control the current  more. That you can do with a resistor, diode or 
potentiometer in series.


If you clip your wires to a multimeter set to measure milliamps, it should read 
zero when you start- that means there is no current flowing through the water 
to speak of. As the silver ions continue to  go into the water, the 
conductivity increases and the current flow increases along with that. I forget 
what the details are (read formula is), but less than 1 mA current is a good 
idea if your silver surface area is under a certain - yours looks close to 
mine, and 1mA is what I am using. Just looking to see what the current is gives 
you some clues.


I got a 75 ohm potentiometer at the surplus store  and put it in series to keep 
a lid on the current. Maybe it was a dollar.


Kathryn




On Oct 18, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Jeff Maahs wrote:




I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen this on any of 
the videos or pictures. Is this normal?

Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

Thank you,
Jeff







  

Re: CSGetting Started

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

you don't get this if you use reverse polarity.  dee

On 18 Oct 2009, at 19:38, Jeff Maahs wrote:



I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen  
this on any of the videos or pictures. Is this normal?


Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

Thank you,
Jeff

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

I just checked and it's running 155mA. I'll go get a pot as suggested.

Does anyone know of a way to check ppm using voltage or conductivity somehow? 
As it is now I have no idea what my current batch would be.

I'm not getting any cloudiness this time. I wonder if I didn't rinse the glass 
enough with dw the first time.






From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sun, October 18, 2009 3:45:27 PM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

Sort of- it looks like your current may be on the high side, otherwise it would 
not be so much. It is normal- the water electrolyzes, the silver picks it up 
and it turns to the gunk you see. To control the amount of gunk, you can 
control the current  more. That you can do with a resistor, diode or 
potentiometer in series.

If you clip your wires to a multimeter set to measure milliamps, it should read 
zero when you start- that means there is no current flowing through the water 
to speak of. As the silver ions continue to  go into the water, the 
conductivity increases and the current flow increases along with that. I forget 
what the details are (read formula is), but less than 1 mA current is a good 
idea if your silver surface area is under a certain - yours looks close to 
mine, and 1mA is what I am using. Just looking to see what the current is gives 
you some clues.

I got a 75 ohm potentiometer at the surplus store  and put it in series to keep 
a lid on the current. Maybe it was a dollar.

Kathryn



On Oct 18, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Jeff Maahs wrote:


I'm getting a buildup of gunk on one of the rods. I haven't seen this on any 
of the videos or pictures. Is this normal?

Here's an image if it helps: http://tinyurl.com/yfdskwb

Thank you,
Jeff







  

Re: CSGetting Started

[cking001]

The bulb's not supposed to light, except if you short the electrodes
together. It's just there to limit the current.

Chuck

Anybody who doesn't know what soap tastes like never washed a dog.


On 10/18/2009 3:47:54 PM, Clayton Family (clay...@skypoint.com) wrote:
 ok. I still
 don't know about the cloudy business. It may be something in the water to 
 start with.
 
 Why didn't
 the bulb light? Does it work at all...
 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.422 / Virus Database: 270.14.20/2444 - Release Date: 10/18/09 
09:04:00

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

Suddenly might light went off. duh. Thanks. So now I'm circumventing that 
because I have the meter in the second set of holes in each leg of the lamp 
base!







From: cking...@nycap.rr.com cking...@nycap.rr.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sun, October 18, 2009 4:57:33 PM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

The bulb's not supposed to light, except if you short the electrodes
together. It's just there to limit the current.

Chuck

Anybody who doesn't know what soap tastes like never washed a dog.


  

RE: CSGetting Started

[Neville Munn]

Jeff,

 

You need to remove electrodes from water at regular intervals to clean them, 
manually switching polarity on these battery units is really more about 
providing even wear on both electrodes instead of working off only one, wiping 
clean the electrodes is the important thing with these units.  I set a timer 
for 30 minutes and remove electrodes to wipe clean and switch polarity (to 
maintain that even wear on both electrodes), takes me 1 to 1 1/2 hours to get 
ppm I'm satisfied with (dependant on numerous variables of course), but having 
said that, I only use my old battery unit in an emergency, other times I use 
the more conventional unit.

 

I consider battery units are still good units, I just don't use one to produce 
large quantities, and if you do, you'll need to incorporate some form of 
stirring method.  Ideas for magnetic stirrers are available in the public 
domain, old computer parts, cost nothing, I've made several.  You can make your 
own stirrer bar as well, but I didn't trust mine so bought some, they're cheap 
anyway.

 
Meters are accurate enough for me being a home producer, at least they tell me 
SOMETHING is in the water, and they'll also tell me when the solution has 
stabilized, but remember, readings will go down in the days following 
production til stabilization of solution has been reached.

 

New production vessels can contain residual contamination from manufacture 
also, which may affect the end result.  I don't bother washing them out, the 
first batch can be sacrificed and used on external open wounds or animals 
anyway if I'm not happy with end result.

 
N.
 






Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:54:59 -0700
From: j_ma...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started
To: silver-list@eskimo.com





 Finally made my first batch. The silver arrived today and I put together 4 9v 
batteries and started the process. Over an hour and nothing happened. So I 
moved the rods closer together and added a bit of the commercial CS we had 
bought. About 30 minutes later I looked and the solution was cloudy. Using a 
laser level I looked into the solution and could see the particles. No idea how 
concentrated it was though as I don't have a meter. I'd like to hear if there 
is a fairly good method.

 So we all rinsed our mouths and gargled as it had become a family event. I 
need to get some of the amber bottles and different tops now.

 We've had some interesting results with the commercial solution and my 
youngest's breathing at night. When we use the CS nose spray she doesn't snore 
or breath loudly. If we forget to have her spray we find out later from the 
snoring. She's been diagnosed with allergies but it happened so suddenly I'm 
not so convinced. It's been about 2 weeks with the CS spray so we'll continue 
and see what happens.

 Jeff
 
 ps - sorry Garnet

  
_
Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how here
http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

 Finally made my first batch. The silver arrived today and I put together 4 9v 
batteries and started the process. Over an hour and nothing happened. So I 
moved the rods closer together and added a bit of the commercial CS we had 
bought. About 30 minutes later I looked and the solution was cloudy. Using a 
laser level I looked into the solution and could see the particles. No idea how 
concentrated it was though as I don't have a meter. I'd like to hear if there 
is a fairly good method.

 So we all rinsed our mouths and gargled as it had become a family event. I 
need to get some of the amber bottles and different tops now.

 We've had some interesting results with the commercial solution and my 
youngest's breathing at night. When we use the CS nose spray she doesn't snore 
or breath loudly. If we forget to have her spray we find out later from the 
snoring. She's been diagnosed with allergies but it happened so suddenly I'm 
not so convinced. It's been about 2 weeks with the CS spray so we'll continue 
and see what happens.

 Jeff
 
 ps - sorry Garnet



  

RE: CSGetting Started

[SJY]

Jeff,

 

You don't need to store your EIS/CS in amber bottles.  Clear bottles are
fine - light doesn't affect EIS/CS made with only distilled water and pure
silver electrodes.

 

Steve Y.

 

  _  

From: Jeff Maahs [mailto:j_ma...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 6:55 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

 

 Finally made my first batch. The silver arrived today and I put together 4
9v batteries and started the process. Over an hour and nothing happened. So
I moved the rods closer together and added a bit of the commercial CS we had
bought. About 30 minutes later I looked and the solution was cloudy. Using a
laser level I looked into the solution and could see the particles. No idea
how concentrated it was though as I don't have a meter. I'd like to hear if
there is a fairly good method.

 So we all rinsed our mouths and gargled as it had become a family event. I
need to get some of the amber bottles and different tops now.

 We've had some interesting results with the commercial solution and my
youngest's breathing at night. When we use the CS nose spray she doesn't
snore or breath loudly. If we forget to have her spray we find out later
from the snoring. She's been diagnosed with allergies but it happened so
suddenly I'm not so convinced. It's been about 2 weeks with the CS spray so
we'll continue and see what happens.

 Jeff
 
 ps - sorry Garnet

 

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.422 / Virus Database: 270.14.20/2443 - Release Date: 10/17/09
13:08:00

Re: CSGetting Started

[Dan Nave]

Jeff,

Here is something I came up with on how to use Colloidal Silver.  I
think the initial cautions are overstated, but unless you have
something like food poisoning it is probably better to start slowly.

Dan



How To Use Colloidal Silver

Do not drink directly out of the CS bottle, or add things directly to
the CS bottle!
Pour the CS into your mouth or another container.

If you have never used CS internally before, start slowly and increase
the dose over a period of time.

1.  Very few people are allergic to silver.  To test, place several
drops of CS  on your tongue.   Monitor for allergic reactions for up
to ½ hour.

2.  Place 1 tsp CS in your mouth.  Swish it around for 2 minutes, then
spit it out.  Start out with only one or two doses a day.
3.  Increase dose to 1 Tbs CS at a time.  Swish it in mouth for 2 to 5
minutes, then spit it out.   Later, if you want, you can swallow this.
 Swallowing CS is most effective on an empty stomach.  You can repeat
every ½ hour as long as you are not experiencing a healing reaction.

CS is strong and effective if used properly.
CS is only effective while it is actually contacting bacteria, etc.
It doesn’t linger.
CS only acts for a short time in the body.  Therefore, divided doses
taken over a period of time make it more effective.

Preventative dose:  1 tsp to 1 Tbs taken once or twice a day.  Swish
in mouth for 2 minutes and then swallow or spit it out.

Colds:  Spray CS in eyes and nose.  Use as you would use a nasal
spray.  Most effective when used at first sign of a cold.  Repeat
treatment every ½ hour for best results.

Established Colds:  Spray in eyes and nose.  Swish 1 tsp to 1 Tbs in
mouth for 30 seconds to 1 minute and swallow.  Repeat every ½ hour or
as often as you wish.

Sore Throat/Bronchitis:  Take as above for Established Colds.  Let the
CS trickle slowly down the throat over a period of time.  Spray CS
into the back of the mouth while breathing in.  Repeat every ½ hour.

Ears:  Fill ear canal with CS for 2 to 5 minutes.  Can mix with 3%
Hydrogen Peroxide at any ratio – try ½ CS and ½  Hydrogen Peroxide.
Some people recommend straight Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) or ½ CS and ½
Hydrogen Peroxide in the ear canals for colds.  Leave in until the
bubbling stops.

Eyes:  Spray or use drops in the eyes for colds or infections such as
Pinkeye.  Repeat several times.

Nose:  Remove the top from a saline or nasal spray bottle and dump out
the contents.  Rinse 3 times with distilled water or a little CS.
Fill half way with CS and use as a nasal spray.

Mouth:  Use 1 Tbs as you would a mouthwash (2 to 5 minutes) and then
spit out.  For more severe gum problems you can add either an equal
amount of  3% Hydrogen Peroxide to the CS, or 2 parts DMSO to 8 parts
CS.  (Don’t add Hydrogen Peroxide and DMSO to the same mix.)  Both
Hydrogen Peroxide and DMSO taste horrible, but the results can be
worth it.  Do not swallow.

Cuts or infections:  Saturate clean gauze, cotton, or cloth with CS.
Place this over the wound for as long as necessary.  Keep wet with CS.
 Change as necessary.  Hydrogen Peroxide will help CS penetrate mucus,
etc.  Ten to 20 % DMSO will help it absorb into the skin for deeper
penetration.  It is possible to heal the surface of a wound and still
leave infection underneath for deep wounds.  Make sure it penetrates.
Use CS orally too.

Burns:  Silver is used to treat severe burns.  Treat as for Cuts or
Infections above.  Seek medical attention if badly burned.

Food Poisoning:  Drink ½ to 1 cup of CS in one dose.  Repeat if necessary.

Maximum Dose:  Many people have taken 1 pint to 1 quart of 5 to 20 ppm
CS daily without problems.  There is no concern with taking ¼ cup (4
Tbs) for long periods of time, or up to ½ cup (8 Tbs) for shorter
periods.


Note: Colloidal Silver (CS) as used here refers to 5 to 20 ppm silver
ions and particles liberated by electricity in pure distilled water
without salt or other additives.  Very good and inexpensive CS can be
made at home.  Stay away from commercial silver products with very
high ppms and those made with silver compounds or silver proteins.


On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 3:22 PM, Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I would like to start out with CS. It would be mainly for myself but perhaps
 also for my young kids at some point.

 Is there a standard email that can be posted with some advice for beginners?

 If I buy some is there a better manufacturer?
 Is there a standard ppm to use?
 Dosage amounts for everyday versus when you have come down with something?

 Is there a guide for making it yourself?

 Thanks!
 Jeff


--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...

List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

Thank you Dan, Smitty and Garnet!

I've been going through the material. Looks like I'll start out by buying some 
(little pricey) and take it from there. 

Thanks again!
Jeff






From: Dan Nave bhangcha...@gmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2009 10:48:08 AM
Subject: Re: CSGetting Started

Jeff,

Here is something I came up with on how to use Colloidal Silver.  I
think the initial cautions are overstated, but unless you have
something like food poisoning it is probably better to start slowly.

Dan



How To Use Colloidal Silver

Do not drink directly out of the CS bottle, or add things directly to
the CS bottle!
Pour the CS into your mouth or another container.

If you have never used CS internally before, start slowly and increase
the dose over a period of time.

1.  Very few people are allergic to silver.  To test, place several
drops of CS  on your tongue.   Monitor for allergic reactions for up
to ½ hour.

2.  Place 1 tsp CS in your mouth.  Swish it around for 2 minutes, then
spit it out.  Start out with only one or two doses a day.
3.  Increase dose to 1 Tbs CS at a time.  Swish it in mouth for 2 to 5
minutes, then spit it out.   Later, if you want, you can swallow this.
Swallowing CS is most effective on an empty stomach.  You can repeat
every ½ hour as long as you are not experiencing a healing reaction.

CS is strong and effective if used properly.
CS is only effective while it is actually contacting bacteria, etc.
It doesn’t linger.
CS only acts for a short time in the body.  Therefore, divided doses
taken over a period of time make it more effective.

Preventative dose:  1 tsp to 1 Tbs taken once or twice a day.  Swish
in mouth for 2 minutes and then swallow or spit it out.

Colds:  Spray CS in eyes and nose.  Use as you would use a nasal
spray.  Most effective when used at first sign of a cold.  Repeat
treatment every ½ hour for best results.

Established Colds:  Spray in eyes and nose.  Swish 1 tsp to 1 Tbs in
mouth for 30 seconds to 1 minute and swallow.  Repeat every ½ hour or
as often as you wish.

Sore Throat/Bronchitis:  Take as above for Established Colds.  Let the
CS trickle slowly down the throat over a period of time.  Spray CS
into the back of the mouth while breathing in.  Repeat every ½ hour.

Ears:  Fill ear canal with CS for 2 to 5 minutes.  Can mix with 3%
Hydrogen Peroxide at any ratio – try ½ CS and ½  Hydrogen Peroxide.
Some people recommend straight Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) or ½ CS and ½
Hydrogen Peroxide in the ear canals for colds.  Leave in until the
bubbling stops.

Eyes:  Spray or use drops in the eyes for colds or infections such as
Pinkeye.  Repeat several times.

Nose:  Remove the top from a saline or nasal spray bottle and dump out
the contents.  Rinse 3 times with distilled water or a little CS.
Fill half way with CS and use as a nasal spray.

Mouth:  Use 1 Tbs as you would a mouthwash (2 to 5 minutes) and then
spit out.  For more severe gum problems you can add either an equal
amount of  3% Hydrogen Peroxide to the CS, or 2 parts DMSO to 8 parts
CS.  (Don’t add Hydrogen Peroxide and DMSO to the same mix.)  Both
Hydrogen Peroxide and DMSO taste horrible, but the results can be
worth it.  Do not swallow.

Cuts or infections:  Saturate clean gauze, cotton, or cloth with CS.
Place this over the wound for as long as necessary.  Keep wet with CS.
Change as necessary.  Hydrogen Peroxide will help CS penetrate mucus,
etc.  Ten to 20 % DMSO will help it absorb into the skin for deeper
penetration.  It is possible to heal the surface of a wound and still
leave infection underneath for deep wounds.  Make sure it penetrates.
Use CS orally too.

Burns:  Silver is used to treat severe burns.  Treat as for Cuts or
Infections above.  Seek medical attention if badly burned.

Food Poisoning:  Drink ½ to 1 cup of CS in one dose.  Repeat if necessary.

Maximum Dose:  Many people have taken 1 pint to 1 quart of 5 to 20 ppm
CS daily without problems.  There is no concern with taking ¼ cup (4
Tbs) for long periods of time, or up to ½ cup (8 Tbs) for shorter
periods.


Note: Colloidal Silver (CS) as used here refers to 5 to 20 ppm silver
ions and particles liberated by electricity in pure distilled water
without salt or other additives.  Very good and inexpensive CS can be
made at home.  Stay away from commercial silver products with very
high ppms and those made with silver compounds or silver proteins.


On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 3:22 PM, Jeff Maahs j_ma...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I would like to start out with CS. It would be mainly for myself but perhaps
 also for my young kids at some point.

 Is there a standard email that can be posted with some advice for beginners?

 If I buy some is there a better manufacturer?
 Is there a standard ppm to use?
 Dosage amounts for everyday versus when you have come down with something?

 Is there a guide for making it yourself?

 Thanks!
 Jeff


--
The Silver List is a moderated forum

CSGetting Started

[Jeff Maahs]

Hi,


I would like to start out with CS. It would be mainly for myself but perhaps 
also for my young kids at some point.

Is there a standard email that can be posted with some advice for beginners? 

If I buy some is there a better manufacturer? 
Is there a standard ppm to use? 
Dosage amounts for everyday versus when you have come down with something?

Is there a guide for making it yourself? 

Thanks!
Jeff


  

Re: CSGetting Started

[Smitty]

 I would like to start out with CS. It would be mainly for myself but perhaps
 also for my young kids at some point.

Here's some info for a start =

http://silver-lightning.com/theory.html

http://educate-yourself.org/cs/

Smitty


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Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com
   

Re: CSgetting started

[Ivan Anderson]

- Original Message -
From: Nick Grant nwgr...@inet.net.nz

 Hi Ivan

 Firstly, I am not your competition.  I only want to make the stuff to
sell
 to friends and family, and word of mouth etc.  I would really
appreciate
 your help and I don't know much about making it and what I need to
start and
 I have heard you sell generators.  True?  How do I get de-ionized or
 distilled water.  My friend makes it by boiling her water and making
it
 while the water is warm.  Is our water not pure enough to do this?

Hi Tracy,

I'm not realy worried about competition, after all I make the best
Colloidal Silver in the world at the most reasonable prices...

I was more worried about someone making for sale a medicine which they
knew little about!

Distilled water can be had from your local chemist.. you may need to
order it in, or I can sell you Purified Water BP which I purchase in
bulk from a bio-lab supplier.

You cannot make stable CS in anything but distilled or in some cases RO
water.

 Secondly, where abouts do you live in New Zealand.  My friend brought
her
 machine of some guy down South, wondering if it's you.

I live in Auckland, so I guess it wasn't me. Funny thing is that I sell
most of my generators overseas, I guess with the dollar at US$0.42 this
makes sense.

I can sell you a generator no problem, either the little current limited
job or something to your specs, let me know.

 Look forward to your advice and help getting started.

You need to do some self study to understand the process and how to
measure it, I will help when I can, can't be fairer than that Tracy.

Regards - Ivan.



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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSgetting started

[Nick Grant]

Hi Ivan

Can you tell me how much it would cost me for your machine (generator),
distilled water, or the other, and anything else I need.

I will get my husband to read the info up on how to make it etc, he is more
the mathematician than I.  Is there some instructions that go with the
generator?

I seem to be feeling this is all very difficult.  I have three small
children, not alot of time, and even less energy.  I need it SIMPLE as
possible.  I don't understand half of what is talked about on the list with
regards to specifics.

Is there somewhere in the archives that is a good place to start.  The
problem with the archives I found was, you had to know what you were looking
for in the first place!

I live in Christchurch by the way, for your posting info.

Thanks Ivan

Tracy.
- Original Message -
From: Ivan Anderson i...@win.co.nz
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, 28 September 2000 18:10
Subject: Re: CSgetting started



 - Original Message -
 From: Nick Grant nwgr...@inet.net.nz

  Hi Ivan
 
  Firstly, I am not your competition.  I only want to make the stuff to
 sell
  to friends and family, and word of mouth etc.  I would really
 appreciate
  your help and I don't know much about making it and what I need to
 start and
  I have heard you sell generators.  True?  How do I get de-ionized or
  distilled water.  My friend makes it by boiling her water and making
 it
  while the water is warm.  Is our water not pure enough to do this?

 Hi Tracy,

 I'm not realy worried about competition, after all I make the best
 Colloidal Silver in the world at the most reasonable prices...

 I was more worried about someone making for sale a medicine which they
 knew little about!

 Distilled water can be had from your local chemist.. you may need to
 order it in, or I can sell you Purified Water BP which I purchase in
 bulk from a bio-lab supplier.

 You cannot make stable CS in anything but distilled or in some cases RO
 water.

  Secondly, where abouts do you live in New Zealand.  My friend brought
 her
  machine of some guy down South, wondering if it's you.

 I live in Auckland, so I guess it wasn't me. Funny thing is that I sell
 most of my generators overseas, I guess with the dollar at US$0.42 this
 makes sense.

 I can sell you a generator no problem, either the little current limited
 job or something to your specs, let me know.

  Look forward to your advice and help getting started.

 You need to do some self study to understand the process and how to
 measure it, I will help when I can, can't be fairer than that Tracy.

 Regards - Ivan.



 --
 The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.

 To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to:
 silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
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 Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSgetting started

[Nick Grant]

Hi Ivan

Firstly, I am not your competition.  I only want to make the stuff to sell
to friends and family, and word of mouth etc.  I would really appreciate
your help and I don't know much about making it and what I need to start and
I have heard you sell generators.  True?  How do I get de-ionized or
distilled water.  My friend makes it by boiling her water and making it
while the water is warm.  Is our water not pure enough to do this?

Secondly, where abouts do you live in New Zealand.  My friend brought her
machine of some guy down South, wondering if it's you.

Look forward to your advice and help getting started.

Tracy.
- Original Message -
From: Ivan Anderson i...@win.co.nz
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 23:29
Subject: Re: CSgetting started


 Hi Tracy,

 No requirements needed other than to manufacture to good manufacturing
 practice, not make outrageous claims, and to be able prove that what is
 in the bottle is what is on the label. I take the trouble to have my
 product bio-burden tested and assayed, and track the batch numbers.

 It would seem that you have quite a lot of study to do if you don't know
 what type of generator to use! Do you know what is the optimum particle
 size, concentration, colour and so on? There is a wealth of info in the
 archives...

 Yours in competition,
 Ivan.

 - Original Message -
 From: Nick Grant nwgr...@inet.net.nz
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 21:31
 Subject: CSgetting started


  Hi
 
  I hope I am e-mailing this to the right address.  I am looking at
 getting
  started with CS.  I have been using it for over a year and now wish to
 sell
  it.  I live in New Zealand, so I am not sure if any of you are
 familiar with
  the policies over here, as to whether or not I need a permit to sell
 CS.
 
  Also, is a battery operated machine O.K., or am I better with a power
  generated machine?
 
  Look forward to hearing your comments
 
  Tracy G.



 --
 The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.

 To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to:
 silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
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 Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

CSgetting started

[Nick Grant]

Hi

I hope I am e-mailing this to the right address.  I am looking at getting
started with CS.  I have been using it for over a year and now wish to sell
it.  I live in New Zealand, so I am not sure if any of you are familiar with
the policies over here, as to whether or not I need a permit to sell CS.

Also, is a battery operated machine O.K., or am I better with a power
generated machine?

Look forward to hearing your comments

Tracy G.


--
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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSgetting started

[mfinney]

PHil 

Correction point Tracy G in Adrian's directrion .

Barb
Michael Lee Finney
   michael.fin...@acm.org
   michael.fin...@computer.org




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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSgetting started

[mfinney]

Phiil

Point this NIck fellow who wants to make CS in Adrians direction as Adrian
needs some.

Barb
Michael Lee Finney
   michael.fin...@acm.org
   michael.fin...@computer.org




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Re: CSgetting started

[Ivan Anderson]

Who is Adrian and who is PHil?

I manufacture and sell in NZ and Aust.

Ivan.

- Original Message -
From: mfin...@lynchburg.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 22:40
Subject: Re: CSgetting started


 PHil

 Correction point Tracy G in Adrian's directrion .

 Barb
 Michael Lee Finney
michael.fin...@acm.org
michael.fin...@computer.org




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silver.

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to:
 silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
 with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line.

 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Silver-list archive:
http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

Re: CSgetting started

[Ivan Anderson]

Hi Tracy,

No requirements needed other than to manufacture to good manufacturing
practice, not make outrageous claims, and to be able prove that what is
in the bottle is what is on the label. I take the trouble to have my
product bio-burden tested and assayed, and track the batch numbers.

It would seem that you have quite a lot of study to do if you don't know
what type of generator to use! Do you know what is the optimum particle
size, concentration, colour and so on? There is a wealth of info in the
archives...

Yours in competition,
Ivan.

- Original Message -
From: Nick Grant nwgr...@inet.net.nz
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 21:31
Subject: CSgetting started


 Hi

 I hope I am e-mailing this to the right address.  I am looking at
getting
 started with CS.  I have been using it for over a year and now wish to
sell
 it.  I live in New Zealand, so I am not sure if any of you are
familiar with
 the policies over here, as to whether or not I need a permit to sell
CS.

 Also, is a battery operated machine O.K., or am I better with a power
 generated machine?

 Look forward to hearing your comments

 Tracy G.



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Re: CSgetting started

[mfinney]

Dear Ivan,

Phil Marie Sr.  is on this CS list and also along with a chap named Dean we 3
are on an list called the AEF list.  Stand for Anomalous Encounters Forum
and also on the AEF list is an adorble elderly fellow in NZ who has been
sick the last few weeks with a prolonged chest infection and now it has
gone to a non--stop runny nose.  ANd he is a bit better now and we have
suggested this and that to him and he does not seem to be familiar with CS
when Phil mentioned it to him.  And as you are in NZ.  You would be just
the fellow...


Adrian's e-mail is a...@ihug.conz

If you are near him show him how to get into CS,  he is smart and willing.


Tell him Barb sent you...
]

Barb
Michael Lee Finney
   michael.fin...@acm.org
   michael.fin...@computer.org




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Re: CSgetting started

[john rigby]

Ha Ivan  folks,
Loved your tactful response, Ivan!
You are obviously much over 30  :-)
HOWEVER, may I point out the other small detail?
Business is rarely about making a good product - it is all about
flogging it.
I give you:
Windoze  Os/2
Windoze  Linux.

Cheers,
John


- Original Message -
From: Ivan Anderson i...@win.co.nz
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: CSgetting started


 Hi Tracy,

 No requirements needed other than to manufacture to good
manufacturing
 practice, not make outrageous claims, and to be able prove that
what is
 in the bottle is what is on the label. I take the trouble to
have my
 product bio-burden tested and assayed, and track the batch
numbers.

 It would seem that you have quite a lot of study to do if you
don't know
 what type of generator to use! Do you know what is the optimum
particle
 size, concentration, colour and so on? There is a wealth of
info in the
 archives...

 Yours in competition,
 Ivan.

 - Original Message -
 From: Nick Grant nwgr...@inet.net.nz
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 21:31
 Subject: CSgetting started


  Hi
 
  I hope I am e-mailing this to the right address.  I am
looking at
 getting
  started with CS.  I have been using it for over a year and
now wish to
 sell
  it.  I live in New Zealand, so I am not sure if any of you
are
 familiar with
  the policies over here, as to whether or not I need a permit
to sell
 CS.
 
  Also, is a battery operated machine O.K., or am I better with
a power
  generated machine?
 
  Look forward to hearing your comments
 
  Tracy G.



 --
 The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of
colloidal silver.

 To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail
message to:
 silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-
silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
 with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line.

 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Silver-list archive:
http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com