Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-16 Thread Ode Coyote



  Distillation leaves ions and particles as a residue in the container.

ode


At 08:29 AM 9/16/2008 +0900, you wrote:
And one step further:  why not boil EIS in the oven?  If vigorously boiled 
the steam would carry particles/ions of EIS into all the nooks and 
crannies of the oven . . .



On Monday, Sep 15, 2008, at 14:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten wrote:

Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted to 
EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If one 
can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also reach 
them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water 
renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It generally 
isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can corrode 
metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it should be no 
problem. One approach might be to:



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Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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6:49 PM


Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-16 Thread Peter Converse

Hi Kathryn,

Have you tried or considered a solution of  food grade H2o2 or a product 
using it as the main ingredient such as Microban?


Peter


- Original Message - 
From: Clayton Family clay...@skypoint.com

To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts


Thank you all very much for the great suggestions. I was also wondering
how EIS would affect mycotoxins.  Not having the equipment, or
training, or money to pay the guy who does, I am not sure.

Generally speaking, oxidizers do denature them to some degree,
depending on which toxin and which oxidizer. Sunlight and heat do  seem
to work, even on the worst ones, but it takes forever- like 5 years or
so in the desert. Bleach does work on some things, to some degree. I
used bleach on my basement and everything in it, but then all the
porous surfaces had to be sealed before I was ok with it.  Now I have
heard of ammonia, and I have shown to my own satisfaction that that
works. Also ozone works if it is intense enough. The benefit to that
one is that it goes everywhere the air goes.

Now none of these works at all if there is still an active mold colony
around somewhere. I have found that if none of my cleaning techniques
are working and I am still reacting, it is usually because there is
some active mold growing that has not been removed. The steps I have
found that work are:

1. find and remove all mold.
2. clean everything with a mild bleach solution or ammonia.
3. repair surfaces, and seal.

It sounds pretty simple, but can get complicated in a hurry from not
thinking about all the surfaces that need attention. Not to mention
that all the cleaning etc is pretty bad for me too, so I can only do so
much at a time, and only on sunny days when the windows can be open.

Thanks again,

Kathryn

On Sep 15, 2008, at 12:04 AM, Jonathan B. Britten wrote:

Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted to 
EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If one 
can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also reach them. 
I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water renders it fit 
to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a great 
disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It generally isn't 
used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can corrode metals but 
if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it should be no problem. 
One approach might be to:





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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-16 Thread Marshall Dudley

Jonathan B. Britten wrote:
And one step further:  why not boil EIS in the oven?  If vigorously 
boiled the steam would carry particles/ions of EIS into all the nooks 
and crannies of the oven . . .


Boiling is distilling, and that leaves all the silver behind in the pan. 
It would be no different than boiling plain water.  If you used an 
ultrasonic vaporizer, then it would produce a mist with the silver in 
it. But do you really want to coat everything with silver, including the 
high voltage wiring in the power section.  Seems that could result in a 
rather explosive catastrophic failure.


Marshall


On Monday, Sep 15, 2008, at 14:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten wrote:

Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted 
to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also 
reach them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled 
water renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It 
generally isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and 
can corrode metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time 
it should be no problem. One approach might be to:



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com












Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-16 Thread Jonathan B. Britten
Don't know that it would, if one used a wide container and if the 
boiling were vigorous and the steam rose rapidly. . .   in shipboard 
water distillers sediment rises up and gets into pipes and cruds up the 
whole evaporative distillation system so badly that periodic descaling 
is necessary.  Thus we know that the steam carries up that which is 
distilled from the falling pure water.  . .




On Tuesday, Sep 16, 2008, at 20:08 Asia/Tokyo, Ode Coyote wrote:




  Distillation leaves ions and particles as a residue in the 
container.


ode


At 08:29 AM 9/16/2008 +0900, you wrote:
And one step further:  why not boil EIS in the oven?  If vigorously 
boiled the steam would carry particles/ions of EIS into all the nooks 
and crannies of the oven . . .



On Monday, Sep 15, 2008, at 14:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten 
wrote:


Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is 
devoted to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also 
reach them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled 
water renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It 
generally isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and 
can corrode metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable 
time it should be no problem. One approach might be to:



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...

List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1673 - Release Date: 
9/15/2008 6:49 PM




Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-16 Thread Jonathan B. Britten
Good point about the risk of having silver residue on the wiring, which 
at the least could cause arcing of current and maybe fire.Better to 
stick with sunlight, or better yet, take the oven to a professional for 
servicing, if it's possible.


Given that just about everything discussed in this thread carries some 
risk of someone getting injured, I think I'll sign off on this one -- 
with apologies all around for having signed on in the first place.  
This is pretty far off-topic to begin with.


A final  comment:  my reading convinces me that microwaves alter the 
effect of foods and liquids on the human body, as shown by the research 
of Y. Omura, M.D., whose neurological kinesiological methods I trust.  
I got rid of the microwave oven years and years ago.






On Wednesday, Sep 17, 2008, at 03:03 Asia/Tokyo, Marshall Dudley wrote:


Jonathan B. Britten wrote:
And one step further:  why not boil EIS in the oven?  If vigorously 
boiled the steam would carry particles/ions of EIS into all the nooks 
and crannies of the oven . . .


Boiling is distilling, and that leaves all the silver behind in the 
pan. It would be no different than boiling plain water.  If you used 
an ultrasonic vaporizer, then it would produce a mist with the silver 
in it. But do you really want to coat everything with silver, 
including the high voltage wiring in the power section.  Seems that 
could result in a rather explosive catastrophic failure.


Marshall


On Monday, Sep 15, 2008, at 14:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten 
wrote:


Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is 
devoted to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also 
reach them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled 
water renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It 
generally isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and 
can corrode metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable 
time it should be no problem. One approach might be to:



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com













Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-16 Thread Jonathan B. Britten
. . . as does the steam that falls as rain.  Scientists tell us that 
rain carries pollen, spores, bacteria, viruses, and more.   A few years 
ago I read a rather long and fascinating article about that topic.  I'd 
had no idea at all.


Epidemiologists are aware of and concerned with the phenomenon.   
People who study bioterrorism have given the matter some thought as 
well -- scary thought.


Of course, some of the rain-particle formation may be of airborne bits 
encased in water vapor high up in the sky,  rather than being carried 
up from evaporation.


Quite a lot I don't know about all that, too . . .



On Wednesday, Sep 17, 2008, at 12:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten 
wrote:


Don't know that it would, if one used a wide container and if the 
boiling were vigorous and the steam rose rapidly. . .   in shipboard 
water distillers sediment rises up and gets into pipes and cruds up 
the whole evaporative distillation system so badly that periodic 
descaling is necessary.  Thus we know that the steam carries up that 
which is distilled from the falling pure water.  . .




On Tuesday, Sep 16, 2008, at 20:08 Asia/Tokyo, Ode Coyote wrote:




  Distillation leaves ions and particles as a residue in the 
container.


ode


At 08:29 AM 9/16/2008 +0900, you wrote:
And one step further:  why not boil EIS in the oven?  If vigorously 
boiled the steam would carry particles/ions of EIS into all the 
nooks and crannies of the oven . . .



On Monday, Sep 15, 2008, at 14:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten 
wrote:


Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is 
devoted to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?
If one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also 
reach them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled 
water renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is 
a great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It 
generally isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and 
can corrode metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable 
time it should be no problem. One approach might be to:



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal 
Silver.


Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...

List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1673 - Release Date: 
9/15/2008 6:49 PM






Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-15 Thread Clayton Family
Thank you all very much for the great suggestions. I was also wondering 
how EIS would affect mycotoxins.  Not having the equipment, or 
training, or money to pay the guy who does, I am not sure.


Generally speaking, oxidizers do denature them to some degree, 
depending on which toxin and which oxidizer. Sunlight and heat do  seem 
to work, even on the worst ones, but it takes forever- like 5 years or 
so in the desert. Bleach does work on some things, to some degree. I 
used bleach on my basement and everything in it, but then all the 
porous surfaces had to be sealed before I was ok with it.  Now I have 
heard of ammonia, and I have shown to my own satisfaction that that 
works. Also ozone works if it is intense enough. The benefit to that 
one is that it goes everywhere the air goes.


Now none of these works at all if there is still an active mold colony 
around somewhere. I have found that if none of my cleaning techniques 
are working and I am still reacting, it is usually because there is 
some active mold growing that has not been removed. The steps I have 
found that work are:


1. find and remove all mold.
2. clean everything with a mild bleach solution or ammonia.
3. repair surfaces, and seal.

It sounds pretty simple, but can get complicated in a hurry from not 
thinking about all the surfaces that need attention. Not to mention 
that all the cleaning etc is pretty bad for me too, so I can only do so 
much at a time, and only on sunny days when the windows can be open.


Thanks again,

Kathryn

On Sep 15, 2008, at 12:04 AM, Jonathan B. Britten wrote:

Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted 
to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also reach 
them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water 
renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It 
generally isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can 
corrode metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it 
should be no problem. One approach might be to:





--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com



RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-15 Thread Dan Nave
Actually, how about cleaning as best you can, 
blowing out everything with an air hose (outside), 
then cover over all holes, but leave one near the top of the machine, 
and inject ozone into it for 24 to 48 hours.

Dan

 

 -Original Message-
 From: Jonathan B. Britten [mailto:jbrit...@cc.nakamura-u.ac.jp] 
 Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 12:04 AM
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject: Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts
 
 Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted 
 to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?
 
 Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
 one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might 
 also reach 
 them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water 
 renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
 purification system.
 
 
 On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:
 
   Kathryn,
  You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
  great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. 
 It generally 
  isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can corrode 
  metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it 
 should be 
  no problem. One approach might be to:
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
 Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
 
 The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
 
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

 
 


Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-15 Thread Jonathan B. Britten
And one step further:  why not boil EIS in the oven?  If vigorously 
boiled the steam would carry particles/ions of EIS into all the nooks 
and crannies of the oven . . .



On Monday, Sep 15, 2008, at 14:04 Asia/Tokyo, Jonathan B. Britten wrote:

Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted 
to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also reach 
them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water 
renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water 
purification system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It 
generally isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can 
corrode metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it 
should be no problem. One approach might be to:



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-15 Thread Malcolm
Hi Jon,
I may have been getting a little overenthused, but was trying to address
multiple forms of contamination: 1)bacteria and fungi,  2)toxic detritus
from same,  3)other environmental pollutants such as outgassing from
building materials, dust, gaseous and microparticular drift from
numerous sources out- or in-doors which are not life forms or the
products or remains of same.  

I agree whole heartedly sunlight is an excellent anti-bacterial, ozone
can be a bit tricky since it oxidizes one's lung tissue, UV light can
help, but bacteria are notorious for 'hiding' from UV in water purifiers
by hitching a ride on tiny particles - even colloids - in the water and
I'd suspect they can do so in air.  Of course bleach is not much more
useful against inanimate particles, other than being an oxidizer, than
water.  Kathryn seems to have found significant benefit from using
ammonia, which may nitrify organic pollutants, dunno, new one on me. g
Take care,  Malcolm 

On Mon, 2008-09-15 at 14:04 +0900, Jonathan B. Britten wrote:
 Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted 
 to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?
 
 Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
 one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also reach 
 them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water 
 renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water purification 
 system.
 
 
 On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:
 
   Kathryn,
  You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
  great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It generally 
  isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can corrode 
  metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it should be 
  no problem. One approach might be to:
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
 Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
 
 The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
 
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

 


Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-14 Thread Jonathan B. Britten
Just curious, and not quibbling, but given that this group is devoted 
to EIS, why not use that?   Might it not be less oxidative?


Taking things one step further:  mightn't sunlight do the job?If 
one can spray something onto the components, sunlight might also reach 
them.   I have read that 48 hours of sunlight on PET-bottled water 
renders it fit to drink -- the poor man's last-ditch water purification 
system.



On Saturday, Sep 13, 2008, at 00:05 Asia/Tokyo, Norton, Steve wrote:


 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a 
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It generally 
isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can corrode 
metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it should be 
no problem. One approach might be to:



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-13 Thread Steven Foss
Dear Malcolm,

Very good explanation of how Caps regain a charge after being discharge.

For that reason I attached clipped leads to the caps after discharging them

On the subject of Power supply caps, I recommend some type of resistance rather 
than say a direct short from an old tool to drain the cap unless you plan on 
replacing the cap. Using the direct short method can damage either the Caps 
plates, the di-electric, or both.

Regards,

Steve Foss



  

RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread M. G. Devour
Dear Kathryn, Malcolm, and group!

Anybody tempted to do *anything* around the guts of a microwave oven  
needs to take all the cautions about high voltages and keeping yourself 
out of the circuit *VERY* *SERIOUSLY*, as we don't want to lose any of 
you.

Until you know how and why things are dangerous and how to be safe, 
it's best to stay out of line powered equipment altogether.

Back at one place I used to work, there was a fire-sprinkler flood in 
one of the labs full of racks of electronic equipment. Most stuff was 
powered off at the time and breakers protected a lot of the rest, but 
beyond the few things that were damaged, everything was soaked!

They dried it all out by putting batches of instruments through one of 
the medium sized heat treating ovens at something less than boiling 
temperature overnight. Once everything was *thoroughly* dry it powered 
up and functioned again.

I don't know if your microwave is small enough to fit into your regular 
oven, but that'd be one way to make sure it's completely dry inside 
before you try to power it up again.

I've used this trick successfully on cell phones, calculators and 
digital watches that got wet. Just take out the batteries and either 
replace them or dry them out by hand.

Lastly, you may want to read some of the materials on the alleged 
dangers of consuming microwaved foods. We use ours a lot less than we 
used to.

Be well,

Mike D.


 Malcolm,
 True, I may have been lucky but I have also been cautious. I was taught
 the method by a TV repairman who used on every TV he repaired as a
 standard practice. BTW, when I said put it in the tub I should have
 stated that I did not intend it should be a tub filled with water. I was
 thinking of a shower or pouring water over the microwave to rinse.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Dee
I would have thought that just to turn the microwave on would kill any 
toxins in it! dee


Clayton Family wrote:

Dear List,

I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a 
pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and 
let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me 
that this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned 
what with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any 
good way to do it.


It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards 
or something.


Thanks,  Kathryn


--




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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Norton, Steve
 Kathryn,
You should consider Malcolms suggestion about using bleach. It is a
great disinfectant and does dissipate leaving no residue. It generally
isn't used for electronics because it is an oxidant and can corrode
metals but if you dry the microwave in a reasonable time it should be no
problem. One approach might be to:

*   Unplug the microwave for as long a time as you can but I
wouldn't do less than three days. Longer is better. Anyone who has
worked on TVs has probably been surprised by a charge still on the high
voltage capacitor. Once burned you don't forget again and you make sure
to discharge the capacitor after that. The capacitors are high quality
and can hold a charge for a long time. I am concerned that you could
shock yourself if you try and discharge the high voltage and you don't
know what you are doing.
*   Vacuume what dust you can from the microwave. If you have a
vacumme with an all plastic hose use it. If it has a metal pipe where
you hold the hose, wear heavy rubber cleaning gloves.
*   There is a plastic duct and fan that is used to vent the
microwave and it gets pretty dirty and may have a lot of grease. Esp. if
anyone makes microwave popcorn. It is usually easy to remove and clean
seperately.
*   Fill a spray bottle filled with diluted bleach. Use plain bleach
- no thickeners or added scents. Have it set for a fine mist. Wear heavy
rubber gloves in case there is still voltage on the capacitor. It If
there is it could possibly arc up through the spray if you are not
insulated.
*   Spray the insides of the microwave several times over a 15
minute period with the bleach solution
*   n. Avoid spraying the magnetron if you can.
*   Dry the microwave by placing it in front of a space heater,
moving it occasionally to get all parts of the microwave dried. You want
warm air on the microwave but not so close as to get thing hot. I would
do this for at least 4 hours. Longer is better.
*   If you are uncomfortable with this approach don't do it. 
*   If someone else in this forum feels that parts of this approach
are not safe then don't do it.
*   Your safety is more important than saving the cost of a new
microwave.

 - Steve N

-Original Message-
From: M. G. Devour [mailto:mdev...@eskimo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:52 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

Dear Kathryn, Malcolm, and group!

Anybody tempted to do *anything* around the guts of a microwave oven
needs to take all the cautions about high voltages and keeping yourself
out of the circuit *VERY* *SERIOUSLY*, as we don't want to lose any of
you.

Until you know how and why things are dangerous and how to be safe, it's
best to stay out of line powered equipment altogether.

Back at one place I used to work, there was a fire-sprinkler flood in
one of the labs full of racks of electronic equipment. Most stuff was
powered off at the time and breakers protected a lot of the rest, but
beyond the few things that were damaged, everything was soaked!

They dried it all out by putting batches of instruments through one of
the medium sized heat treating ovens at something less than boiling
temperature overnight. Once everything was *thoroughly* dry it powered
up and functioned again.

I don't know if your microwave is small enough to fit into your regular
oven, but that'd be one way to make sure it's completely dry inside
before you try to power it up again.

I've used this trick successfully on cell phones, calculators and
digital watches that got wet. Just take out the batteries and either
replace them or dry them out by hand.

Lastly, you may want to read some of the materials on the alleged
dangers of consuming microwaved foods. We use ours a lot less than we
used to.

Be well,

Mike D.



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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Norton, Steve
Dee,
I believe that she wants to remove the outer case of the microwave and
clean where the electronics are. That area is shielded from the
microwaves.
 - Steve N 

-Original Message-
From: Dee [mailto:d...@deetroy.org] 
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 5:16 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

I would have thought that just to turn the microwave on would kill any
toxins in it! dee

Clayton Family wrote:
 Dear List,

 I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
 accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
 fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a
 pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and

 let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me 
 that this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned 
 what with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any 
 good way to do it.

 It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
 but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards 
 or something.

 Thanks,  Kathryn


 --



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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Dan Nave
The microwave that I have, which I am considering using for CS, has a
resistance associated with it to discharge the capacitor.  Not sure how
long it takes.  The TV will hold a charge for a long time.

Dan
 

 -Original Message-
 From: Norton, Steve [mailto:stephen.nor...@ngc.com] 
 Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:23 PM
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject: RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts
 
 Kathryn,
 I am probably going to horrify some with my recommendation 
 but you can clean your microwave in your bathtub with tap 
 water. The one thing I am not sure of is the magnetron which 
 is mounted on the side or top of the microwave chamber and 
 generates the actual microwaves. It has been sometime since I 
 tore one of those apart but as I recall they are not water 
 tight. I would mask off the magnetron with plastic and tape 
 to keep out water and ammonia. 
 I have cleaned a number of TVs and other electronics with tap 
 water with no problems. Just rinse the cleaning solution off 
 Very Well and Dry Completely before use.  Water can be 
 trapped in connectors and so check they are dry inside as 
 well as outside. I find that drying in direct sunlight for a 
 couple or three days is usually enough if the days are warm.
 Before you open the microwave, let it set for 2 to 3 days 
 unplugged to discharge the capacitors. BTW, TVs also have a 
 high voltage capacitor on the versions with a picture tube.
 This is what I would do.
  - Steve


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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Clayton Family

Dear Steve, Malcolm, Mike, Dee,

Thank you all for the input and the ideas. I am reading them and 
mulling them over.  Yes, the toxins tend to be airborn. Cleaning 
appliances can be very time consuming since there are many areas that 
are not so easy to get to. Buying new ones is certainly simpler, but 
way more spendy.  And no guarantees anywhere in sight. I really hate 
this stuff, and would rather move, but then there is the money again.  
I would not even think of cleaning them if I had money, I would just 
get some new ones, and send the old ones to appliance heaven.


Thanks,

Kathryn


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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Dee
Scary stuff!  I think I would leave well alone and either get a new one, 
or not bother with microwaving.  dee


Norton, Steve wrote:

Dee,
I believe that she wants to remove the outer case of the microwave and
clean where the electronics are. That area is shielded from the
microwaves.
 - Steve N 

  
  



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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Marshall Dudley

Dan Nave wrote:

The microwave that I have, which I am considering using for CS, has a
resistance associated with it to discharge the capacitor.  Not sure how
long it takes.  The TV will hold a charge for a long time.
  
Give me the value of the resistor, and the capacitors, and I can tell 
you exactly how fast it will discharge.


Marshall

Dan
 

  

-Original Message-
From: Norton, Steve [mailto:stephen.nor...@ngc.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:23 PM

To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

Kathryn,
I am probably going to horrify some with my recommendation 
but you can clean your microwave in your bathtub with tap 
water. The one thing I am not sure of is the magnetron which 
is mounted on the side or top of the microwave chamber and 
generates the actual microwaves. It has been sometime since I 
tore one of those apart but as I recall they are not water 
tight. I would mask off the magnetron with plastic and tape 
to keep out water and ammonia. 
I have cleaned a number of TVs and other electronics with tap 
water with no problems. Just rinse the cleaning solution off 
Very Well and Dry Completely before use.  Water can be 
trapped in connectors and so check they are dry inside as 
well as outside. I find that drying in direct sunlight for a 
couple or three days is usually enough if the days are warm.
Before you open the microwave, let it set for 2 to 3 days 
unplugged to discharge the capacitors. BTW, TVs also have a 
high voltage capacitor on the versions with a picture tube.

This is what I would do.
 - Steve




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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread bob Larson
...TV's and monitors with CRT's can accumulate charge in unplugged storage
even if the cap is drained initially.  i forget how it works, but it's
apparently true.

 -Original Message-
 From: Dan Nave [mailto:dan.n...@nilfisk-advance.com]
 Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 1:40 PM
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject: RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts


 The microwave that I have, which I am considering using for CS, has a
 resistance associated with it to discharge the capacitor.  Not sure how
 long it takes.  The TV will hold a charge for a long time.

 Dan


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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Dan Nave
The capacitor is 10 ufd.  On the schematic, the resistor is shown
parallel to the capacitor, but has no value.  
I am not sure if it is an external resistor or if it indicates an
inherent internal leakage of the capacitor.

Dan 

 -Original Message-
 From: Marshall Dudley [mailto:mdud...@king-cart.com] 
 Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 1:25 PM
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject: Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts
 
 Dan Nave wrote:
  The microwave that I have, which I am considering using for 
 CS, has a 
  resistance associated with it to discharge the capacitor.  Not sure 
  how long it takes.  The TV will hold a charge for a long time.

 Give me the value of the resistor, and the capacitors, and I 
 can tell you exactly how fast it will discharge.
 
 Marshall
  Dan


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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Malcolm
Many toxins are actually bits and pieces of dead bacteria and fungi or
their excretion products; thus the microwave may actually contribute
more toxins to some minor degree.  Also there are many parts of the oven
that aren't irradiated, but just collect dust and particulate debris
because of that durn fan blowing air and making dust-bunnies.

On Fri, 2008-09-12 at 13:15 +0100, Dee wrote:
 I would have thought that just to turn the microwave on would kill any 
 toxins in it! dee
 
 Clayton Family wrote:
  Dear List,
 
  I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
  accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
  fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a 
  pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and 
  let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me 
  that this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned 
  what with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any 
  good way to do it.
 
  It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
  but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards 
  or something.
 
  Thanks,  Kathryn
 
 
  -- 
 
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
 Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
 
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 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

 


Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Marshall Dudley

Dan Nave wrote:

The capacitor is 10 ufd.  On the schematic, the resistor is shown
parallel to the capacitor, but has no value.  
I am not sure if it is an external resistor or if it indicates an

inherent internal leakage of the capacitor.

Dan 
  

The time value of the voltage would be:

E = V*e^-(.1rt)

where r is the value of the resisitor in ohms, and t is in seconds. V is 
the initial voltage when unplugged or turned off.  e is of course the 
base of the natural logarithm.


Marshall
  

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Dudley [mailto:mdud...@king-cart.com] 
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 1:25 PM

To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

Dan Nave wrote:

The microwave that I have, which I am considering using for 
  
CS, has a 

resistance associated with it to discharge the capacitor.  Not sure 
how long it takes.  The TV will hold a charge for a long time.
  
  
Give me the value of the resistor, and the capacitors, and I 
can tell you exactly how fast it will discharge.


Marshall


Dan
  



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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Malcolm


Yes, a good point!  In fact often you can short out a capacitor several
times in a row and get a spark each time; Yikes!  High voltage
capacitors are especially likely to behave this way, because the
insulating element that separates the two plates of the cap becomes
formed by the electrical pressure - the voltage - impressed on it.  this
tends to drive it's electrons toward or away from the positive or
negative plates.  When the voltage is removed, the electrons tend to
migrate back to their former positions and induce a further charge on
them, a new equilibrium.


On Fri, 2008-09-12 at 14:29 -0400, bob Larson wrote:
 ...TV's and monitors with CRT's can accumulate charge in unplugged storage
 even if the cap is drained initially.  i forget how it works, but it's
 apparently true.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Dan Nave [mailto:dan.n...@nilfisk-advance.com]
  Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 1:40 PM
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
  Subject: RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts
 
 
  The microwave that I have, which I am considering using for CS, has a
  resistance associated with it to discharge the capacitor.  Not sure how
  long it takes.  The TV will hold a charge for a long time.
 
  Dan
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
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 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread cking001
On 9/12/2008 2:51:48 AM, M. G. Devour (mdev...@eskimo.com) wrote:
Lastly, you may want to read some of the materials on the alleged 
dangers of consuming microwaved foods. We use ours a lot less than we 
used to.

Yeah,
That was why I had a mw've to convert to CS maker supreme.
We had ditched ours, sometime before because of the cautions of
microwaved food.
Who needs it...

Chuck
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. 
Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all
day.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1667 - Release Date: 9/11/2008 6:55 
PM


Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread cking001
Hee, Hee,
I love it when you talk dirty, Marshall...

Chuck
What if there were no hypothetical questions?


On 9/12/2008 4:16:26 PM, Marshall Dudley (mdud...@king-cart.com)
wrote:
 Dan Nave wrote:
  The capacitor is 10 ufd.  On the schematic, the resistor is shown
  parallel to the capacitor, but has no value.
  I am not sure if it is an external resistor or if it indicates an
  inherent internal leakage of the capacitor.
 
  Dan
 
 The time value of the voltage would be:
 
 E = V*e^-(.1rt)
 
 where r is the value of the resisitor in ohms, and t is in seconds. V is
 the initial voltage when unplugged or turned off.  e is of course the
 base of the natural logarithm.
 
 Marshall
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1667 - Release Date: 9/11/2008 6:55 
PM


Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Neville
STOP IT!!  My hysterical laughter is becoming more uncontrollable!  I'm 
still trying to recover from your mutter, mutter, sigh comment.


N.

- Original Message - 
From: cking...@nycap.rr.com

To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts


Hee, Hee,
I love it when you talk dirty, Marshall...

Chuck
What if there were no hypothetical questions?


On 9/12/2008 4:16:26 PM, Marshall Dudley (mdud...@king-cart.com)
wrote:

Dan Nave wrote:
 The capacitor is 10 ufd.  On the schematic, the resistor is shown
 parallel to the capacitor, but has no value.
 I am not sure if it is an external resistor or if it indicates an
 inherent internal leakage of the capacitor.

 Dan

The time value of the voltage would be:

E = V*e^-(.1rt)

where r is the value of the resisitor in ohms, and t is in seconds. V is
the initial voltage when unplugged or turned off.  e is of course the
base of the natural logarithm.

Marshall







No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1667 - Release Date: 9/11/2008 
6:55 PM



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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-12 Thread Malcolm
Hi, almost forgot; the clothes dryer is infamous for collecting lint,
dust, and after years of use, suddenly catching on fire.  This is not
the best way to clean it though.  Usually the front panel can be wangled
free and the truly incredible amounts of foof peeled off the motor,
pulleys and whatnot. Definitely a worthwhile airborne toxin reduction
method!

On Thu, 2008-09-11 at 15:45 -0500, Clayton Family wrote:
 Dear List,
 
 I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
 accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
 fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a 
 pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and 
 let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me that 
 this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned what 
 with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any good 
 way to do it.
 
 It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
 but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards or 
 something.
 
 Thanks,  Kathryn
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
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CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-11 Thread Clayton Family

Dear List,

I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a 
pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and 
let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me that 
this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned what 
with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any good 
way to do it.


It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards or 
something.


Thanks,  Kathryn


--
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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-11 Thread Norton, Steve
Kathryn,
I am probably going to horrify some with my recommendation but you can
clean your microwave in your bathtub with tap water. The one thing I am
not sure of is the magnetron which is mounted on the side or top of the
microwave chamber and generates the actual microwaves. It has been
sometime since I tore one of those apart but as I recall they are not
water tight. I would mask off the magnetron with plastic and tape to
keep out water and ammonia. 
I have cleaned a number of TVs and other electronics with tap water with
no problems. Just rinse the cleaning solution off Very Well and Dry
Completely before use.  Water can be trapped in connectors and so check
they are dry inside as well as outside. I find that drying in direct
sunlight for a couple or three days is usually enough if the days are
warm.
Before you open the microwave, let it set for 2 to 3 days unplugged to
discharge the capacitors. BTW, TVs also have a high voltage capacitor on
the versions with a picture tube.
This is what I would do.
 - Steve

-Original Message-
From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:46 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

Dear List,

I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have
accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the
fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a
pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and
let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me that
this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned what
with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any good way
to do it.

It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, but
where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards or
something.

Thanks,  Kathryn


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RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-11 Thread Malcolm
Hi Steve, 
No disrespect, but this is a Very Bad idea for a number of reasons.
First, there are nooks and crannies you will never get to where the
water will remain; Second, much tap water is fairly conductive and will
hide under small electronic components on circuit boards, and in the
windings of the high voltage transformer, causing short circuits and
very possibly fires and almost certainly destroying the microwave;
third, putting the device in the tub, often metal, and with grounded
water pipes, almost universal, is an invitation to electrocution.  I'm
glad you've gotten away with it, but that is probably more a combination
of good luck and good (non-conductive) water; fourth, again tap water in
contact with the metal of electronic bits and pieces will corrode them,
and that corrosion itself will disable the electronics inside in short
order. 

 
You have definitely horrified me and I'd urge anyone reading your post
to check with a local electronic appliance repair shop or TV technician
on such a procedure.

On Thu, 2008-09-11 at 16:23 -0500, Norton, Steve wrote:
 Kathryn,
 I am probably going to horrify some with my recommendation but you can
 clean your microwave in your bathtub with tap water. The one thing I am
 not sure of is the magnetron which is mounted on the side or top of the
 microwave chamber and generates the actual microwaves. It has been
 sometime since I tore one of those apart but as I recall they are not
 water tight. I would mask off the magnetron with plastic and tape to
 keep out water and ammonia. 
 I have cleaned a number of TVs and other electronics with tap water with
 no problems. Just rinse the cleaning solution off Very Well and Dry
 Completely before use.  Water can be trapped in connectors and so check
 they are dry inside as well as outside. I find that drying in direct
 sunlight for a couple or three days is usually enough if the days are
 warm.
 Before you open the microwave, let it set for 2 to 3 days unplugged to
 discharge the capacitors. BTW, TVs also have a high voltage capacitor on
 the versions with a picture tube.
 This is what I would do.
  - Steve
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com] 
 Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:46 PM
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts
 
 Dear List,
 
 I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have
 accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the
 fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a
 pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and
 let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me that
 this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned what
 with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any good way
 to do it.
 
 It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, but
 where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards or
 something.
 
 Thanks,  Kathryn
 
 
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 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
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Re: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-11 Thread Malcolm
Hi Kathryn,

What about a hepa filter 'High Efficiency Particulate Air' vacuum
cleaner as well as a more general household hepa filter; Honeywell makes
a bunch of these, though I don't know their real - as opposed to
advertised - quality.  Industrial strength filters are available for
applications such as laminar flow hoods with Guarantees of less than one
percent of particles under a micron or so size at very low pressure drop
across the filter; if I remember correctly, five to ten microns is
considered the worst for us mammals w/lungs.  Another thought; though
common household bleach (Blech!) has a bad rep in many applications, it
is about the most effective household disinfectant that dissipates in a
reasonable amount of time. Ammonia?  Hhmmm, De gustibus non disputandum.
After it dries, a week or so? Hhmm again. Cut down on spore dispersal,
suck em up while they're a wee bit damp and bound to their companion
particles.  After all, the trick is not just to kill nasty little
life-forms, but to rid your environment of nasty little dead particles
left over from god-knows-what nasty little things whether they grew
on-site or arrived otherwise.

In Almost ALL microwave ovens there is a resistor across the terminals
of the high voltage capacitor, called a bleeder resistor and put there
solely to 'bleed off the high voltage.  There's no sure thing about
this, but a competent small appliance repair shop or TV tech. should be
able to verify it's there or not, and still functioning or not.
Alternatively, the knowledgeable adventurous can take a screwdriver with
a good uncracked plastic handle and a piece of insulated electrical wire
w/alligator clips on the ends, clip one alligator to the metal blade of
the screwdriver, other end to the metal chassis of the microwave oven
innards (that's just to reduce the possibility of becoming a bleeder
resistor yourself) and touch the metal blade of the screwdriver between
both the terminals of the capacitor.  If you're not sure what a
capacitor looks like, forget the whole crazy idea, it's not worth
getting zapped!  Other safety hints, stand on dry cardboard, a couple of
thicknesses, wear rubber gloves and -soled shoes, one hand behind your
back, don't lean on the counter or sink, etc., etc.  thimk! Snile!!

Some other options; ionic air filters or static precipitators, not just
the negative ion generators, which are nice but hardly up to whole room
air cleaning, whatever they say; however any of these address the
problem of non-biological toxic particles. Almost any surface finish
like paint or varnish can be a prob, you probably know most of this
stuff already. To get a look at what else may help, check out what
commercial mushroom growers go through to prevent contamination.  After
all, they provide ideal environments for not only their own preferred
portobellos but any other wild species of fungal or mycobacterial spore
that drifts in to set up it's version of reproduction in paradise.

On Thu, 2008-09-11 at 15:45 -0500, Clayton Family wrote:
 Dear List,
 
 I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
 accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
 fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a 
 pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and 
 let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me that 
 this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned what 
 with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any good 
 way to do it.
 
 It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
 but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards or 
 something.
 
 Thanks,  Kathryn
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
 Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
 
 The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
 
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

 


RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-11 Thread Norton, Steve
Malcolm,
True, I may have been lucky but I have also been cautious. I was taught
the method by a TV repairman who used on every TV he repaired as a
standard practice. BTW, when I said put it in the tub I should have
stated that I did not intend it should be a tub filled with water. I was
thinking of a shower or pouring water over the microwave to rinse. Yes,
tap water is conductive but after drying there is not enough residue
left behind to be conductive. One can finish with a distilled water
rinse if one is concerned. But if Kathryn is going to spray the insides
of a microwave with cleaner, there isn't many options and this is one
that I have used many times without problems on many electronic
equipment. As you note, drying the unit well is important. 
No disrespect taken. Cautions are always good. What may be suitable for
one person may not be for another and I think one of the strengths of
this group is the broad experience and willingness to comment when
something doesn't look right.
 - Steve



-Original Message-
From: Malcolm [mailto:s...@asis.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 3:40 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

Hi Steve,
No disrespect, but this is a Very Bad idea for a number of reasons.
First, there are nooks and crannies you will never get to where the
water will remain; Second, much tap water is fairly conductive and will
hide under small electronic components on circuit boards, and in the
windings of the high voltage transformer, causing short circuits and
very possibly fires and almost certainly destroying the microwave;
third, putting the device in the tub, often metal, and with grounded
water pipes, almost universal, is an invitation to electrocution.  I'm
glad you've gotten away with it, but that is probably more a combination
of good luck and good (non-conductive) water; fourth, again tap water in
contact with the metal of electronic bits and pieces will corrode them,
and that corrosion itself will disable the electronics inside in short
order. 

 
You have definitely horrified me and I'd urge anyone reading your post
to check with a local electronic appliance repair shop or TV technician
on such a procedure.

On Thu, 2008-09-11 at 16:23 -0500, Norton, Steve wrote:
 Kathryn,
 I am probably going to horrify some with my recommendation but you can

 clean your microwave in your bathtub with tap water. The one thing I 
 am not sure of is the magnetron which is mounted on the side or top of

 the microwave chamber and generates the actual microwaves. It has been

 sometime since I tore one of those apart but as I recall they are not 
 water tight. I would mask off the magnetron with plastic and tape to 
 keep out water and ammonia.
 I have cleaned a number of TVs and other electronics with tap water 
 with no problems. Just rinse the cleaning solution off Very Well and 
 Dry Completely before use.  Water can be trapped in connectors and so 
 check they are dry inside as well as outside. I find that drying in 
 direct sunlight for a couple or three days is usually enough if the 
 days are warm.
 Before you open the microwave, let it set for 2 to 3 days unplugged to

 discharge the capacitors. BTW, TVs also have a high voltage capacitor 
 on the versions with a picture tube.
 This is what I would do.
  - Steve
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com]
 Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:46 PM
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts
 
 Dear List,
 
 I am trying to rid my house of airborne toxins. These may have 
 accumulated in the inner working of the microwave as they did in the 
 fridge. One way to detoxify these things (according to Dr Croft, a
 pathologist) is to spray them down liberally with ammonia solution and

 let it dry thoroughly (days, a week or even 2).  So it seems to me 
 that this would be inherently hazardous where a MW oven is concerned 
 what with the HV storage capacitor or whatever. I can't think of any 
 good way to do it.
 
 It may well be healthier to just get a new one. Simpler for certain, 
 but where is the fun in that?  Maybe there is a cheap one at Menards 
 or something.
 
 Thanks,  Kathryn
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 
 Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
 
 To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
 
 Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
 
 The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
 
 List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com

 


RE: CSOT: cleaning microwave guts

2008-09-11 Thread Steven Foss

Hi Steve Norton,
 
Just a brief comment (for me)
 
Before you open the microwave, let it set for 2 to 3 days unplugged to 
discharge the capacitors. BTW, TVs also have a high voltage capacitor on the 
versions with a picture tube.
 
Uplugged Television Capacitors can carry High Voltage charges for longer than 
several days. As everyone may know, the first use of Capacitors was to store 
Electricity. I would worry about the Microwave Caps, too, although I haven't 
worked on any.
 
Not all TVs and I can only guess Microwaves or not as the case may be have 
bleeder resistors across the high voltage capacitors to discharge them. 
 
Unfortunately Consumer Grade Appliances are dollar driven designs. 
 
A manufacture will leave out parts (sometimes call Munzting) to save a 
pittance.  I can and have purchased resistors at a fraction of a penny for 
manufacturing. Bean Counters working for Mass Market Manufacturers seem to have 
more control in industrial design than engineers. That fraction of a penny 
multiplied by 500,000 parts comes to $3,500 at the end of the year for one 
design alone. In other words to save a few dollars, manufactures will omit 
parts that would make a design safer. They have consistently done this unless 
required by regulatory statute for safety concerns.
 
When I work on anything with high voltage caps, I discharge them use using a 
Snuffer Stick (It has a 200K, 2 watt resistor in series with the nose probe 
and ground wire to large clip for ground on the other) and then use clip leads 
on the caps to ground. 
 
I haven't worked on Microwaves and bow to your experience in this area.  I 
wouldn't have them in my house for years.  I remember all the Pacemaker 
warnings. 
 
Best Regards,
 
Steve Foss