RE: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-14 Thread Ode Coyote

The lower the better.
 If there is nothing in the water, what becomes a moot point.
 Anything  around 3PPM or 6 uS and under might be useable, *and over* 
isn't very good at all.
 Doing the water test the LED won't immediately dim at around 6 uS as 
the electrodes are withdrawn from the water.
 At that point, it's pulling full current and the ramp up to current time 
variable has been eliminated.
 Average good water is around .8 uS  the best I've ever seen was .2 uS [ 
Microseimens of conductivity per cubic centimeter  ]
***IF*** a PPM/TDS meter is reading right, anything  1.99 uS and below will 
read a zero.


Ode



At 10:25 AM 10/12/2009 -0400, you wrote:

Is there a suggested range of what it should test at?



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RE: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-12 Thread Lisa
Is there a suggested range of what it should test at?

-Original Message-
From: Ode Coyote [mailto:odecoy...@windstream.net] 
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 7:00 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy



   The red LED says that machine has taken the electrodes out of their 
sockets and switched them from side to side...electronically...and is 
turning most of the stuff that built up on them back into silver ions.
  The electrodes don't last longer [ to do that, would have to mean less 
silver in the water ]..they stay cleaner.

SWAP:  Square Wave Alternating Polarity.or very low frequency AC 
output.

  Green means the current is going one way, red means it is going the other 
way.

If the RO water passes the Water Test as outlined on one of the 
instruction sheets, no meter needed..the generator works like a meter.
  It would be rare, but not impossible, for RO water to be pure enough to 
pass the test.

If it doesn't pass the test, you may want a meter to be able to tell how 
long to run it  in manual mode to finish off a batch to be sure there's as 
much silver in there as there should be by subtracting a beginning number 
from the final number.

  A meter can't tell the difference between silver and anything else...nor 
can the generator.
  But if there IS nothing else, that's a moot point.  It's all silver.

Ode




At 11:15 AM 10/10/2009 -0400, you wrote:
Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few
years now.  It is great. Today I decided to try something different.
I always use the DC and Auto settings but for some reason today I
thought I would try Swap and Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the
silver electrodes last longer)  As always, as I put the electrodes
into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as
usual.  I looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap
switch to DC and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red
light trying to tell me
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and
if so which one?

Thank you,

Pam



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Re: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-11 Thread Ode Coyote



  The red LED says that machine has taken the electrodes out of their 
sockets and switched them from side to side...electronically...and is 
turning most of the stuff that built up on them back into silver ions.
 The electrodes don't last longer [ to do that, would have to mean less 
silver in the water ]..they stay cleaner.


SWAP:  Square Wave Alternating Polarity.or very low frequency AC 
output.


 Green means the current is going one way, red means it is going the other 
way.


If the RO water passes the Water Test as outlined on one of the 
instruction sheets, no meter needed..the generator works like a meter.
 It would be rare, but not impossible, for RO water to be pure enough to 
pass the test.


If it doesn't pass the test, you may want a meter to be able to tell how 
long to run it  in manual mode to finish off a batch to be sure there's as 
much silver in there as there should be by subtracting a beginning number 
from the final number.


 A meter can't tell the difference between silver and anything else...nor 
can the generator.

 But if there IS nothing else, that's a moot point.  It's all silver.

Ode




At 11:15 AM 10/10/2009 -0400, you wrote:

Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few
years now.  It is great. Today I decided to try something different.
I always use the DC and Auto settings but for some reason today I
thought I would try Swap and Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the
silver electrodes last longer)  As always, as I put the electrodes
into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as
usual.  I looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap
switch to DC and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red
light trying to tell me
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and
if so which one?

Thank you,

Pam



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CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-10 Thread Pam Wanveer
Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn  
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few  
years now.  It is great. Today I decided to try something different.   
I always use the DC and Auto settings but for some reason today I  
thought I would try Swap and Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the  
silver electrodes last longer)  As always, as I put the electrodes  
into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as  
usual.  I looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap  
switch to DC and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red  
light trying to tell me
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and  
if so which one?


Thank you,

Pam



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Re: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-10 Thread Dorothy Fitzpatrick
When its in SWAP mode the light switches from red to green to show its  
reversing polarity.  dee


On 10 Oct 2009, at 16:15, Pam Wanveer wrote:

Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and  
learn boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a  
few years now.  It is great. Today I decided to try something  
different.  I always use the DC and Auto settings but for some  
reason today I thought I would try Swap and Auto.  (I thought I read  
it will make the silver electrodes last longer)  As always, as I put  
the electrodes into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as  
usual.  I looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap  
switch to DC and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red  
light trying to tell me
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and  
if so which one?


Thank you,

Pam



-



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Re: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-10 Thread Larry Biggar
Hi Pam! I like mine too! When you do DC the poles stay the same. So you will 
lose silver on one. It will accumilate sludge on the other. Then when you use 
SWAP they change back and forth. But when it's on. The red and green will swap 
each other. Every time the poles reverse. It shows that its working. As the 
silver content grows. The light will get brighter. If its bright to beging 
with. It meens the distilled water is too high in impuraties. I bought a Hanna 
TDS-1 (total disolved solids) from Utopia Silver. com for $15 that will give 
you the silver reading. But you need to double the numbers. Like 10 would be 
20% Silver solution. I've got to know Ken pretty well. He is really an 
interesting guy! Has a lot of info on his Silver Puppy sight plus other info. 
Have fun!  Larry


--- On Sat, 10/10/09, Pam Wanveer woods...@hers.com wrote:


From: Pam Wanveer woods...@hers.com
Subject: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Saturday, October 10, 2009, 8:15 AM


Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn 
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few years now.  
It is great. Today I decided to try something different.  I always use the DC 
and Auto settings but for some reason today I thought I would try Swap and 
Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the silver electrodes last longer)  As 
always, as I put the electrodes into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as usual.  I 
looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap switch to DC 
and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red light trying 
to tell me
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and if so 
which one?

Thank you,

Pam



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Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

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Re: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy

2009-10-10 Thread Peter Converse

Hi Pam,

The red light is telling you that your Silver Puppy did what it was designed 
to dothat is... swap polarity. It'll do this back and 
forth...green...red...green...red...and so on.

Your nice clean electrodes will love it as much as you will!

Peter

- Original Message - 
From: Pam Wanveer woods...@hers.com

To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 11:15 AM
Subject: CSRed light on my Silver Puppy


Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn 
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few  years 
now.  It is great. Today I decided to try something different.   I always 
use the DC and Auto settings but for some reason today I  thought I would 
try Swap and Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the  silver electrodes 
last longer)  As always, as I put the electrodes  into the water (reverse 
osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as  usual. 
I looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap  switch 
to DC and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red  light 
trying to tell me
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and  if 
so which one?


Thank you,

Pam



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org

To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com

Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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List maintainer: Mike Devour mdev...@eskimo.com