Re: CS>silver rods
The whitish patina is highly divided silver [aka 'dust' or micro rough surface ] Leave it be. On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:55 AM PT Ferrance wrote: > Thank you, Ode. I read that if I started the process with some eis > already added it would reduce the time to make it. Since without that > addition it takes about 5-6 hours I guess I am good. I only use distilled > water but I did recently change the brand. > > I have no yellow light. Only one light that swaps red and green. > > Do I need to do anything to the silver rods to remove the whitish patina? > Thanks. > PT > > > On Tuesday, July 21, 2020, 07:21:51 AM EDT, Ode Coyote < > silverpuppy1...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > It should take AT LEAST 6 hours to do a quart or the water isn't good > enough. > Some contaminants in water can kick off reactions with the silver or > become involved with the silver until it gets used up. > If it's doing that, time can actually increase as the results aren't > conductive and won't contribute to the Auto Off triggering...but the water > may actually appear grey with a very heavy TE. [Tyndall Effect] > > TE is always a variable...it's not a result of what the 'generator' is > doing, but relates to what is happening AFTER the gen does its thing in the > environment it's working in. > The 'generator' makes ions and nothing BUT ions..and you can't see ions > at all. > ..and it's the ions that do most of the 'work' the fastest. > > Even with a heavy TE, at least 85% of the silver content is still > ionic...so..TE isn't much of anything to worry about. > The yellow color is due to the oxidation of some of the ions. > Some water contaminants can kick that reaction into play..with no way to > tell 'what' is in water. > The stronger you make the EIS, the more sensitive to stray reactions it > becomes. > Silver Oxide suspended in the water is harmless...unsightly, but harmless. > > With the variances in water,"normal' covers a fairly wide piece of > territory. > > Want something different?...change the water. > > Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the > water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting the generator run > longer will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug > the generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive > colloids that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever > turn itself off ...or enter programmed mode. ] > > Even a trace of H2O2 changes EVERYTHNG…let jar completely dry between > batches. > > > Ode > > On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:12 AM PT Ferrance wrote: > > If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled > water 2-3 hours. If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5 > or 6? Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a > bit and haven't kept track of times in quite awhile. > > The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they > leave no black residue on the paper towel. They used to leave black > marks. Is there anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white > patina (sort of) on them? > > The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy. > > Thanks. > PT > > . > > > On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote < > silverpuppy1...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? > > On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance > wrote: > > Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel > nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light > yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the > line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. > > Any ideas how to get things back to normal? > Thanks. > PT > >
Re: CS>silver rods
Thank you, Ode. I read that if I started the process with some eis already added it would reduce the time to make it. Since without that addition it takes about 5-6 hours I guess I am good. I only use distilled water but I did recently change the brand. I have no yellow light. Only one light that swaps red and green. Do I need to do anything to the silver rods to remove the whitish patina?Thanks.PT On Tuesday, July 21, 2020, 07:21:51 AM EDT, Ode Coyote wrote: It should take AT LEAST 6 hours to do a quart or the water isn't good enough. Some contaminants in water can kick off reactions with the silver or become involved with the silver until it gets used up.If it's doing that, time can actually increase as the results aren't conductive and won't contribute to the Auto Off triggering...but the water may actually appear grey with a very heavy TE. [Tyndall Effect] TE is always a variable...it's not a result of what the 'generator' is doing, but relates to what is happening AFTER the gen does its thing in the environment it's working in. The 'generator' makes ions and nothing BUT ions..and you can't see ions at all...and it's the ions that do most of the 'work' the fastest. Even with a heavy TE, at least 85% of the silver content is still ionic...so..TE isn't much of anything to worry about.The yellow color is due to the oxidation of some of the ions. Some water contaminants can kick that reaction into play..with no way to tell 'what' is in water. The stronger you make the EIS, the more sensitive to stray reactions it becomes.Silver Oxide suspended in the water is harmless...unsightly, but harmless. With the variances in water,"normal' covers a fairly wide piece of territory. Want something different?...change the water. Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting the generator run longer will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug the generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive colloids that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever turn itself off ...or enter programmed mode. ] Even a trace of H2O2 changes EVERYTHNG…let jar completely dry between batches. Ode On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:12 AM PT Ferrance wrote: If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled water 2-3 hours. If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5 or 6? Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a bit and haven't kept track of times in quite awhile. The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they leave no black residue on the paper towel. They used to leave black marks. Is there anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white patina (sort of) on them? The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy. Thanks.PT . On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote wrote: How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. Any ideas how to get things back to normal?Thanks.PT
Re: CS>silver rods
It should take AT LEAST 6 hours to do a quart or the water isn't good enough. Some contaminants in water can kick off reactions with the silver or become involved with the silver until it gets used up. If it's doing that, time can actually increase as the results aren't conductive and won't contribute to the Auto Off triggering...but the water may actually appear grey with a very heavy TE. [Tyndall Effect] TE is always a variable...it's not a result of what the 'generator' is doing, but relates to what is happening AFTER the gen does its thing in the environment it's working in. The 'generator' makes ions and nothing BUT ions..and you can't see ions at all. ..and it's the ions that do most of the 'work' the fastest. Even with a heavy TE, at least 85% of the silver content is still ionic...so..TE isn't much of anything to worry about. The yellow color is due to the oxidation of some of the ions. Some water contaminants can kick that reaction into play..with no way to tell 'what' is in water. The stronger you make the EIS, the more sensitive to stray reactions it becomes. Silver Oxide suspended in the water is harmless...unsightly, but harmless. With the variances in water,"normal' covers a fairly wide piece of territory. Want something different?...change the water. Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting the generator run longer will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug the generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive colloids that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever turn itself off ...or enter programmed mode. ] Even a trace of H2O2 changes EVERYTHNG…let jar completely dry between batches. Ode On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:12 AM PT Ferrance wrote: > If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled > water 2-3 hours. If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5 > or 6? Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a > bit and haven't kept track of times in quite awhile. > > The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they > leave no black residue on the paper towel. They used to leave black > marks. Is there anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white > patina (sort of) on them? > > The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy. > > Thanks. > PT > > . > > > On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote < > silverpuppy1...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? > > On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance > wrote: > > Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel > nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light > yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the > line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. > > Any ideas how to get things back to normal? > Thanks. > PT > >
Re: CS>silver rods
If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled water 2-3 hours. If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5 or 6? Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a bit and haven't kept track of times in quite awhile. The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they leave no black residue on the paper towel. They used to leave black marks. Is there anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white patina (sort of) on them? The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy. Thanks.PT . On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote wrote: How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. Any ideas how to get things back to normal?Thanks.PT
Re: CS>silver rods
Yes, just explaining how & why that works, BTW i used to have my own darkroom as a 12 year old, (66 now), light affects film because it is/was formed from silver nitrate, where the light hit, turned black/grey when processed, unexposed portions were removed in the developer. We then end up with the negative. We use this to reverse the process on silver nitrate coted paper, (2 x negative = positive) so, if the colloid is clear, it seems to indicate no light/impurity interaction (maybe the water used was purer than normal) ?? On 20 July 2020 1:24:27 pm Reid Harvey wrote: BTW, the beam of light in 3-D is due to the Tyndall Effect. On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 8:18 AM Maha-Abu wrote: Hi normally i don't post but personally i would say these are good signs, the yellow colour i would say is due to slightly larger particles and slight oxidation causing reflections from light. The fact that there is no black residue would to me indicate a cleaner, less oxidised process, the fact we see the laser beam is because of refraction & reflection of the beam off of the silver, the wideer or more visible the beam, the higher the particle density and probably smaller particle size (which would also effect the wavelength, and there by colour you see, or don't see refracted in the colloid. If i am wrong please someone put me right. Open to ideas. On 20 July 2020 12:12:49 pm Ode Coyote wrote: How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. Any ideas how to get things back to normal? Thanks. PT
Re: CS>silver rods
BTW, the beam of light in 3-D is due to the Tyndall Effect. On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 8:18 AM Maha-Abu wrote: > Hi normally i don't post but personally i would say these are good signs, > the yellow colour i would say is due to slightly larger particles and > slight oxidation causing reflections from light. The fact that there is no > black residue would to me indicate a cleaner, less oxidised process, the > fact we see the laser beam is because of refraction & reflection of the > beam off of the silver, the wideer or more visible the beam, the higher the > particle density and probably smaller particle size (which would also > effect the wavelength, and there by colour you see, or don't see refracted > in the colloid. If i am wrong please someone put me right. Open to ideas. > > On 20 July 2020 12:12:49 pm Ode Coyote wrote: > >> How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? >> >> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance >> wrote: >> >>> Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel >>> nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light >>> yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the >>> line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. >>> >>> Any ideas how to get things back to normal? >>> Thanks. >>> PT >>> >> >
Re: CS>silver rods
Hi normally i don't post but personally i would say these are good signs, the yellow colour i would say is due to slightly larger particles and slight oxidation causing reflections from light. The fact that there is no black residue would to me indicate a cleaner, less oxidised process, the fact we see the laser beam is because of refraction & reflection of the beam off of the silver, the wideer or more visible the beam, the higher the particle density and probably smaller particle size (which would also effect the wavelength, and there by colour you see, or don't see refracted in the colloid. If i am wrong please someone put me right. Open to ideas. On 20 July 2020 12:12:49 pm Ode Coyote wrote: How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. Any ideas how to get things back to normal? Thanks. PT
Re: CS>silver rods
How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: > Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel > nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light > yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the > line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. > > Any ideas how to get things back to normal? > Thanks. > PT >
Re: CS>silver rods
Are you shining a laser thru the product to see if you have silver particles? On Sunday, July 19, 2020, 10:46:09 AM EDT, PT Ferrance wrote: Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. Any ideas how to get things back to normal?Thanks.PT
Re: CS>silver rods
Light turns on so I believe so.PT On Sunday, July 19, 2020, 12:34:34 PM EDT, Cyndiann Phillips wrote: Are you sure you are getting an electric current? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. Any ideas how to get things back to normal?Thanks.PT
Re: CS>silver rods
Are you sure you are getting an electric current? On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance wrote: > Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel > nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light > yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the > line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. > > Any ideas how to get things back to normal? > Thanks. > PT >
