Re: [RCSE] Ups and Downs
Jim, I heard a whistling sound last night letting the dogs out before bed, check about Marion, Ohio...Sorry bud, that does hurt! Marc RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Re: winch battery charging
My new GMC pickup truck has a 40 amp, fused circuit in the back end to power trailer accessories. You might be able to find something like this in your vehicle, try the owners manual or a shop manual. If the vehicle was set up from the factory with a towing package there is a pretty good chance that the harness will have this somewhere. If not, then you get to make a connection and add the fuse/wires to do the job. That gets the power back there, now you need the charger. Here in the land of bass boats these can be had at the boat dealers - in fact, those guys would be happy to wire up the whole rig for you if you bring $$$. Cabelas (www.cabelas.com) has a charger that will do this - but it isn't cheap, there may be a better source out there somewhere. Their system is made to charge multiple boat batteries, shock and waterproof, all the good stuff. If you find a good cheap source let me know... Rob Glover I wondered what would happen if I connected the winch battery to that outlet. Would it charge the winch battery over time? Of course I am interested in not doing damage to my cars electrical system.No guesses please. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Tail Moment
The tail moment is calculated from the 25% point on the Mean Aerodynamic Chord of the wing to the 25% point on The Mean Aerodynamic Chord of the tail plane so making a change to the rudder does nothing for you. Sweep the tail to fix your problem Dave In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Ron Richardson [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes George Gillburg wrote: At 08:50 PM 4/22/00 -0700, Maurice Podder wrote: I have been trying to come up with simple way of increasing the tail moment on a fiberglass fuselage. I'm only wanting 1" or so. Then comes the question is tail moment figured from the trailing edge of the rudder or from its hinge line. If it is from the trailing edge I can extend the rudder 1" or if it is from the hinge line I could try extending the fuse and 1". Odiously it would be easier to make a rudder than to extend the fuse. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] winch battery charging
It is SOP in RVs to charge an auxullary battery along with the primary battery. You'll need ot add a "backflow" circuit to keep from draining the aux batt into the vehicle circuit. I'd check with an RV dealer. --Bill On Sat, 22 Apr 2000 08:45:22 -0400 Barry Andersen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have become increasingly less interested in hauling my mahoja sized winch battery in and out of the car. My Caravan has a 12volt outlet at the rear. I wondered what would happen if I connected the winch battery to that outlet. Would it charge the winch battery over time? Of course I am interested in not doing damage to my cars electrical system.No guesses please. Thanks Barry RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Foam cutting - curls up
I tried cutting foam for the first time last night and got a curly plank. The blank was Dow pink foam (Home Depot). I had the blank weighted down. I had templates at each end (pinned to the blank). The wire was .018 stainless steel. The cut didn't happen overly fast, just at a constant speed. So, now I've got a piece of foam that looks like a Hobie Hawk wing. What gives? - David [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Bagging leading edges
Doug, The standard procedure for bagging LEs is to cut the mylars short of the LE, feather the edge of the mylars, and then have an overlap layer like wax paper to conform the glass around the LE under pressure. When removed the paper peals off, the LE needs to be sanded, and the edge ridge left by the mylars has to be removed. That is the general idea. I have been trying to do it a different way and this was because I was trying alot of SMALL wings for micro HLGs and a small MHLG speed 280 wing. I use square mylars with no feathering because I want to keep a generic set of mylars, since I did not want to keep making specific mylars and then never use them again. (Save $, you know) Also I wanted to really reduce the amount of work I have to do. This method has one problem I am trying to figure out, that is buckling around compund curves. I prep the core as usual. I wrap the LE with FG. All other FG, CF is added as usual. I then take a strip of very light 0.5" wide FG and spray one side of it with 3M77. I apply it along the LE on the lower side of the wing, extending out about 1/4" or more from the LE, making a kind of ledge. I then mix up epoxy and microballoons (sometimes chopped cotton/cabosil (sp?)), relatively thick, and place this in a disposable syringe, plastic icing bag, or small sandwich bag. For the bags I cut a small bit of a corner out to make a exit for a bead of epoxy. I then apply a good sized bead of epoxy along the ledge of FG just prior to placing the top mylar over the core. I then apply the vacuum, and I have been using 16". The mylars contour to the LE as much as it can and the bead of epoxy/balloons fills the gap. I really rub and sweeze the mylars to get the bead of ballons to move and contour to the gap, filling it in. I then place the wing in the cores for the normal curing procedure. When I take off the mylars when cured and the LE is very nice. I can then sand the LE to shape and I have to do less work filling etc. I am still experimenting but this seems to be working. Now I have only tried this on small core wings, but feel that it is going to work for a new 3M ship I have been drawing. Again, the only problem is buckling along the compound LEs and this seems to be reduced when I keep the edge of the mylars near the compund transition point of the cores, and when the cores are thin. With the trend to go to thinner cores, I think it will work better and become popular. I am also trying to use this method for elipitical dihedral wings, like the Hobie Hawk. I have worked with bagging Hawk wings, made of plywood skins, with the MFDer, so I have seen that the thinner airfoils can have this work well. I cannot take credit for this method. I was at Visalia 2 years ago and had gaps (bubbles)in the Trailing Edge (TE) of the wings. Another manufacturer suggested I brush on some microballons/epoxy on the TE to eliminate the gaps during bagging. I just thought it would be more to my advantage to try it on my LE's. I have been trying to add molding stuff to my web site at http://www.scrollsander.com (under Soaring Goodies) and have not bagged wings recently, but will be. I have a digital camera and will be taking pictures of my next bagging with this method. I hope this helps. Thermals, Chris Adams -Original Message- From: Doug Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Saturday, April 22, 2000 11:52 PM Subject: [RCSE] Bagging leading edges I am trying to figure out how to vaccum bag a wing's leading edge. It seems that as air is sucked out of the bag it leaves a void between the mylars at the leading edge. So I guess that the leading edge really isn't under much direct pressure. On my latest attempt, I added a strip of .75 oz glass to the leading edge before bagging, but I didn't wet it out with resin. I assumed that the mylars would squeeze together at the leading edge and wet out the fiberglass that was on the wing.( I was pulling 15 inches by the way) That didn't happen, in fact the entire leading edge was dry in the majority of places. Any hints or tips or website references? BTW, the wing turned out beautiful otherwise. I have been bagging wings for years but this was my first wet layup. My handlaunch wing weighs around 3.75 oz. Thanks, Doug 7B RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Foam cutting - curls up
I have had foam cores do this before, always with pink or blue foam, not white. I have later bagged this wings, with no noticeable effects. I think its just stress that is built into the foam that is relived when it is cut. As long as the wing is sheeted on a flat surface it should remain flat. Kristopher RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Foam cutting - curls up
Welcome to extruded foam sheets. The pink Foamular (not Dow) foam you were using can have quite a bit of stress in the skins. You have two options. One is to shave a thin layer off the each side, the other is to score the top and bottom of the sheet before you cut it. Using a plank in addition to the weights to keep the foam blank flat helps too. You will still end up with core beds that look like hobie hawk wings, but your core should be fairly flat. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] Foam cutting - curls up
Pink and blue foam are produced with some surface tension in the skin-like layer on the top and bottom surfaces. If you spraymount down a block of pink foam and cut a layer off the top using your hotwire, that layer will curl to some extent almost every time. Generally the thinner that first cut off piece is, the more it will curl. If that layer you cut off was created by actually making the bottom cut for your wing, then it can be distressing, because the piece of foam that you're already thinking of as 'your wing' seems woefully distorted. If the curl is not too extreme and you can weight the piece back down into the bed thoroughly and do the top cut, chances are your finished wing will be quite straight, because you will have gotten rid of the top 'manufactured surface' which is where most of the 'pre-tension' is in the foam. If you are set up to cut top surface first, then after your first cut, all you'll have is a warped top wing bed, probably not much concern. Just cut the bottom cut and you'll see that the wing itself is fine, though when you unstick the bottom bed from the table, you may find that it too has some curve. It is not at all unusual to get a perfectly straight wing core with top and bottom beds slightly (or not so slightly) curved, kinda like parentheses around a straight line: (!) If the curling is extreme or really interfering with getting a good core, I've heard of folks making a straight set of templates to just shave a slab off the top and bottom of the foam panel before they even get started cutting the actual foil profile, but it's worth avoiding this if you can, just because it's alot of extra fuss. Don't panic, cutting foam is awesome, and you'll soon work out the bugs. Feel free to ask further questions or write back if anything here is unclear. Hope this helps. Lift, Scobie in Seattle -Original Message- From: David A. Enete [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 8:48 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] Foam cutting - curls up I tried cutting foam for the first time last night and got a curly plank. The blank was Dow pink foam (Home Depot). I had the blank weighted down. I had templates at each end (pinned to the blank). The wire was .018 stainless steel. The cut didn't happen overly fast, just at a constant speed. So, now I've got a piece of foam that looks like a Hobie Hawk wing. What gives? - David [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] R: Great web page !
From: Mario Marzocchi ( Florence- Italy ) ___ ! [EMAIL PROTECTED] --( )- http://users.iol.it/maudib Fred, Thanks a lot for your kind comments about my site. I'm afraid i cant help you so much about shops. Many Years ago i have gone to Germany for European 1/8 cars Championship, i remenber there was a shop in Norimberga where In wintertime there is a very good model show. Here is the address of Mr. Schulze, a very good battery charger maker where You can find a list of German shops too: www.schulze-elektronik.com In Italy, we have a lot of good little shops selling powered planes mostly. There is a big shop at Modena - Viale dell' autodromo, 162/166. The name of the shop is "MObby" but there, You'll find a lot of aerobatic F3A powered planes and engines. Another is " Fulcro" : via Sesto, 46 - Cremona. Then, Jonathan at Morricone near Roma - via Calasanzio, 13. At Florence: Rocchi Luciano - Via V. Emanuele, 271. Here prices are expansive. USA is much cheaper. Years ago i bought a lot of things from "Tower" but now it is impossible couse the $ is too high. rest of Europe. Next year I am planning to go to one of the German model shows. Can you recommend any place to visit ( model shops or model factories )in Italy or Germany? CYAOOO000oo Mario Marzocchi RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] need Mark Kummerows URL
Does anyone have Marks website address? Thanks in advance, Dave Hauch RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Stab weights
I'd like to get a little help from the group. I just purchased a plane that weighs a bit more than I would like for calm conditions. My goal is a 4-6oz total weight loss program. The wings and fuse are basically set (except nose weight). I can loose 2-3 by using a carbon wing rod. What I'm really interested in though is lightening the stab. With both rods it weighs 2 5/8oz. Does anyone have a carbon bagged or balsa sheeted set of stabs with wires that weigh any less? I'll be happy to make a new set of stabs if I can lose an ounce or a little less in the stab. Any help is appreciated. gv Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] need Mark Kummerows URL
http://www.cafes.net/kummerow/ -- Glenn R. Whitcomb Elko, NV [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.gbcnv.edu/~glennw RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] First Soaring Fly-in.
After soaring largely on my own (or with power plane folks) for over a year now, I finally got around to attending my first Sailplane Fly-in in Prattville, AL on Saturday. I got an early start for the 145 mile drive down to Prattville. Arrived, introduced myself and got settled. Although winches were available, I wanted to use my highstart on the first couple of flights since I'm accustomed to it. Did a quick range check on the GL, everything was perfect. Pulled the plane back on the highstart, did a last stick push to make sure the radio was on and let her go. A perfect launch. Got to the top, gave a down-blip to release, and it didn't. Hmm, I thought. I waited a few seconds, and she released on her own. Right rudder, a little up-elevator, let's start a figure-8 and go looking. Nope. Plane went into an inverted dive from 500 feet. Got worse with most anything I tried. Finally was able to get her into a shallow inverted tailwind dive and held it here. Hit the ground, but not terribly hard: split the fuse sides, popped the wing-bolt blocks and crunched an outboard LE. What happened? Doh. A couple of night before I was setting up a new plane, and left the Tx on the wrong model for the GL. I ended up with reversed rudder and elevator. Although I did a range check, I rushed and didn't do a close visual on the control surfaces. Still, it was a good save. I flew all the way to the ground... Enjoyable Fly-in, all things considered. I just wish I hadn't bankrupted my reputation with the folks on my first flight... --Bill RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Ups and Downs
Marc Gellart wrote: Jim, I heard a whistling sound last night letting the dogs out before bed, check about Marion, Ohio...Sorry bud, that does hurt! Jim, To bad on the loss. Maybe it will turn up and you can at least recover the radio. I have also seen the Escape. My name is one of the next five or six to arrive at AeroModel. Your are correct, nothing else even comes close. I would almost be scared to fly it. Dave Wenzlick has figured out the programming on an 8U for the six servo wing. I'm sure he would share it for a nominal fee. Darwin N. Barrie Scottsdale AZ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
