RE: [RCSE] Artemis CG problem or is it?

2001-03-19 Thread Jones, Philip



My 
Euro Hera (Starlite) has the recommended cg at 83mm back from the leading edge, 
mine is currently 97mm back. This is still ahead of the neutral position (pulls 
out gently in the dive test), but the elevators are exactly lined up with the V 
tail at this position and it is easy to fly. With this setup, the towhook is 
ahead of the cg by about 5mm (just from memory). My guess is that at 86mm, you 
will notice a lot of up-trim. Hope this helps.

  -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 11:00 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [RCSE] Artemis CG 
  problem or is it?Greetings, The 
  instructions say set the CG 86 mm back from the leading edge. The tow 
  hook (adjustable and is as far forward as it can go) is 4 MM 
  BEHIND the recommended CG. The instruction also say the CG 
  can go back to 96-98 mm depending on flying style. It is not my 
  style to fly a new sailplane with an aft CG. As I read this the 
  tow hook is 90 mm behind the LE and if the tow hook is to be 4 or 5 mm 
  ahead of the CG the CG will be getting near the aft CG location. Can 
  people flying Hera/Hades/Artemis tell me what CG they are using to have a 
  good flying sailplane? Perhaps I am making mountains out of mole 
  hills but better save then sorry. R.D. (RD) Smith 
  Fayetteville, GA 


[RCSE] Blade

2001-03-19 Thread RVMcCleave

Anyone out there flying a Blade sloper?  If so, I sure could use some set up info such 
as cg. and throw measurements.  Any help would really be appreciated.

Randy McCleave

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Re: [RCSE] Prepainting mylar disaster!

2001-03-19 Thread Tim Rowledge


 What type of paint did you use?
 How long did you wait for it to dry?
 Humidity,temp,etc
 
 
 Krylon and waiting 24 hours have never failed me.
I've been using the ordinary Orchard Supply paint cans, since I never
managed to find Krylon brand anywhere. I've been pointed to Kragen auto
stuff to try to get some, so I'll see if I can spot it.
I waxed the mylar several times (with self proclaimed mold release wax
that I had been given by a friend that has been using it quite happily),
allowing to dry in between, then sprayed a layer of the paint. It stuck
tolerably well except for some pinholes/fisheyes, so after letting it
dry overnight I gave it another layer and whoosh! crackle finish! The
only cause I have been able to think of is the solvent getting 'under'
the original layer. Does that sound feasible?
I fear I might have done the original layer too soon after the last
waxing  polishing - could that cause fisheye?

I also have to admit (as any of you that know me can attest) that I'm
simply one of those people that hasa hard time with painting. Boy, you
should see the fun I've been having finishing the new bedframe I've been
making.

tim
-- 
Tim Rowledge, [EMAIL PROTECTED], http://sumeru.stanford.edu/tim
Useful random insult:- Low on thinking gas.

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Re: [RCSE] looking for schematic for Li battery charge in Microflight Rc( ??)

2001-03-19 Thread Andrew E. Mileski

"Andrew E. Mileski" wrote:
 
 I'm not familiar with the article, but I'd look at the Maxim
 or Analog Devices sites.

Since I was browsing in the neighbourhood ...

http://www.maxim-ic.com/DesignApps/EndEquipment/BatteryPack/BatteryCharger.htm

The MAX1645 looks like it does Lithium.  It auto-switches from
constant current to constant voltage charging too.  I just took
a quick look at it though.

--
Andrew E. Mileski
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[RCSE] Artemis CG

2001-03-19 Thread SmithR2D2
Greetings,

I have had several responses to my CG question and the consensus of opinion 
is that it will fly OK with the aft CG settings.

I wish to thank all who took the time to help. It is greatly appreciated.

R.D. (RD) Smith
Fayetteville, GA


Re: [RCSE] Prepainting mylar disaster!

2001-03-19 Thread Tom Broeski

You should put several layers of mist on it.  One heavy coat will soften the previous 
paint and cause crackle.
T

Tim Rowledge wrote:

  What type of paint did you use?
  How long did you wait for it to dry?
  Humidity,temp,etc
 
 
  Krylon and waiting 24 hours have never failed me.
 I've been using the ordinary Orchard Supply paint cans, since I never
 managed to find Krylon brand anywhere. I've been pointed to Kragen auto
 stuff to try to get some, so I'll see if I can spot it.
 I waxed the mylar several times (with self proclaimed mold release wax
 that I had been given by a friend that has been using it quite happily),
 allowing to dry in between, then sprayed a layer of the paint. It stuck
 tolerably well except for some pinholes/fisheyes, so after letting it
 dry overnight I gave it another layer and whoosh! crackle finish! The
 only cause I have been able to think of is the solvent getting 'under'
 the original layer. Does that sound feasible?
 I fear I might have done the original layer too soon after the last
 waxing  polishing - could that cause fisheye?

 I also have to admit (as any of you that know me can attest) that I'm
 simply one of those people that hasa hard time with painting. Boy, you
 should see the fun I've been having finishing the new bedframe I've been
 making.

 tim
 --
 Tim Rowledge, [EMAIL PROTECTED], http://sumeru.stanford.edu/tim
 Useful random insult:- Low on thinking gas.

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--
TG http://adesigner.com/invention
32 Mount View Dr.
Afton, VA  22920

540 943-3356  Fax 540 943-4178


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[RCSE] RE: DXF to COR

2001-03-19 Thread Erik Wikran

Does anyone have a method of taking a .dxf file and converting it to a .cor
or .dat file?

--Greg Nuspel

You could list the lines in the DXF-file, copyclip it to a txt-file and edit it so You 
get the x and y coordinates. Or You could isert a block with an attribut in every 
vertex and use attext to extract the x and y coordinates. If the coordinates don't get 
out in the right order You could open the txt-file in Excel and sort it as You like. 
Some work but it is posible.

-
Regards
Erik Wikran
Tromso, Norway



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Re: [RCSE] COME MONDAY!

2001-03-19 Thread Browne Goodwin
Where are the new Cockpit software features posted on your website? I could not find them this am.   - Original Message - From:Karlton Spindle Sent:Friday, March 16, 2001 4:19 PM To:Soaring List Cc:Mike Sky King Ratner Subject:[RCSE] COME MONDAY! Pasadena Soaring Society monthly meeting will be the unveiling of the newCOCKPIT MM V2.0 radio in the USA.WE WILL BE RAFFLING ONE OFF! Come if you can...http://www.rcsoaring.com/pss/I do not know if they will allow outside entries to the raffle but you canask Mike Sky King Ratner [EMAIL PROTECTED] if they willSmooth Sailing,Karlton Spindlehttp://www.MultiplexRC.comRCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


Re: [RCSE] Prepainting mylar disaster!

2001-03-19 Thread ricvaughn


Tim,
  What type of paint did you use?
  How long did you wait for it to dry?
  Humidity,temp,etc
 
 
  Krylon and waiting 24 hours have never failed me.
 I've been using the ordinary Orchard Supply paint cans, since I never
 managed to find Krylon brand anywhere. I've been pointed to Kragen auto
 stuff to try to get some, so I'll see if I can spot it.

I can't believe you can't find krylon. It's everywhere here in Atlanta. But
for the record, I've used several other brands
of paint with the same results. Look at Kmart, Wal Mart, Target, Ace, True
Value, etc.


 I waxed the mylar several times (with self proclaimed mold release wax
 that I had been given by a friend that has been using it quite happily),

I use Blue Coral  Carnauba wax, Auto Parts store or Kmart, etc.



 allowing to dry in between,



You're making it too hard on yourself. Put the wax on and immediately wipe
it off. Quick and simple operation. I use three coats. Really don't
think that many are required.


 then sprayed a layer of the paint. It stuck
 tolerably well except for some pinholes/fisheyes, so after letting it
 dry overnight I gave it another layer and whoosh! crackle finish! The
 only cause I have been able to think of is the solvent getting 'under'
 the original layer. Does that sound feasible?
 I fear I might have done the original layer too soon after the last
 waxing  polishing - could that cause fisheye?

I've never had crackle, but you can fisheye it with too much paint. Just go
slow and dust on several light coats. I think your paint is reacting with
the wax. If you can't
find straight carnauba, try any past auto wax you have on hand.


 I also have to admit (as any of you that know me can attest) that I'm
 simply one of those people that hasa hard time with painting. Boy, you
 should see the fun I've been having finishing the new bedframe I've been
 making.

 tim
 --
 Tim Rowledge, [EMAIL PROTECTED], http://sumeru.stanford.edu/tim
 Useful random insult:- Low on thinking gas.

 RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe"
and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[RCSE] Re: more lead stories...

2001-03-19 Thread MSu1049321

I think the connection between contacting lead and brain damage has now been 
thoroughly demonstrated in the last few posts;-)

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[RCSE] Sumit 7 info needed?

2001-03-19 Thread Bag Lady Al

Hi All
AL
Does any one know where I can get info on the Summit 7 Sailplane?
Who makes this ship?
I looked at Dream Catcher site with no luck. : (
Cheers.
Al

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[RCSE] Grass Mountain Status

2001-03-19 Thread Brett Jaffee

Anyone know the status of Grass Mountain in Santa Clarita, CA?  I was there last 
summer, and it looked like they were preparing to build something (there were fencing 
materials ready to be set up).  Has this actually happened, or can you still fly up 
there (or both)?

Brett


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Re: [RCSE] Thermal expansion of lead!!

2001-03-19 Thread Blstujr

For those out there who are unaware of it.  Water will expand to 1700 times 
its volume when it flashes to vapor upon hitting molten lead.  It only takes 
a drop of water to empty a pot of lead.  Pouring lead into a larger volume of 
water probably wouldn't do much, but a small volume of water into a larger 
volume of 800deg lead will cause it to flash instantly.  
Brice Stultz



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[RCSE] For Sale 2 Meter Image

2001-03-19 Thread Michael R.Morjoseph

I will have for sale a 2meter "Image" all Molded version comes ready to fly
just add
your RX set up for Futaba and has a real nice battery pack installed this
plane also has some real nice Plug in Wings Hoops Connectors.. Plane is in
Very Good cond..
also has a nice Ballest System Installed.. weight is like 35 oz I think
stock all Hitec Gear Installed 6 servos.. Price is 500.00 plus shipping from
so cal..
Mike..92646 so cal

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Re: [RCSE] Lbs. pull on Hi Start

2001-03-19 Thread Thomas Koszuta

Sorry for the delay, Tony.  I tried to respond from work and the server
blocked my home e-mail address.  Anyway...

The answer you are looking for is 3 to 6 times the weight of your
sailplane.  Three times the weight of your sailplane will give you a lower,
slower launch and may be good for a first time.  Six time the weight of your
plane is typically at the  high end of properly sized rubber and can really
make the plane move quick.

Here are a couple o' links on histarts:
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/dickwilliamson_histartphysics.
htm
http://www.hollyday.com

   The faster the sailplane is moving, the more responsive the controls so
make sure that you can deal with the speed and response.  Shouldn't take too
long, but start lighter and work your way up.

On another topic, find some experienced people in your area.  You will
save tons of rebuilding and gain invaluable insight into flying RC
sailplanes.

What plane do you have and about how much does it weigh?

- Original Message -
From: "Tony Rodeghiero" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Lbs. pull on Hi Start


 Hi I am new to soaring, built my first plane. need
 some suggestions as to the amount of pull on hi start
 for two meter plane.
 Thanks, Tony

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[RCSE] Hock retracts

2001-03-19 Thread John Derstine

I am putting together a Hock retract order to go in the next week or two.
any of you who have previously contacted me about this, please confirm your
interest in purchasing a Hock retract. All others are welcome to get in on
this discounted group order. See the prices below and deduct 10% on orders
over $50.00.
John Derstine
 Endless Mountain Models
E-mail; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web Page: http://www.Geocities.com/scalesoar/pegasus.htm
 authorized Hock distributor in the USA

price list: http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/5739/USHockweb.html

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