[RCSE] Re: Great Ideas
Paul. . .this is really great. . .not only the idea, but for taking the time to pass on something of value. Since I can no count on remembering anything, this one goes into the "Worthy RCSE Posts" folder. - Original Message - From: "Paul Emerson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 9:11 PM Subject: RE: Great Ideas Not sure if this qualifies as "Great" but . . . Mounting pushrod housings inside a tailboom or fuselage: With a music wire pushrod, hold the housing in place using neodymium magnets on the outside of the boom. Then hold the boom upright and dribble thin CA down the housing (being careful not to get it inside the housing of course), mist some kicker in there and you are done. You can then remove the piano wire and put a CF rod in the housing if you like. Works good on all fuses/booms. Some like to add small wraps of thread or tape along the housing to give the CA more to bite into. I find on good etched teflon housing this is not necessary, and it impedes the flow of CA down the boom. Picture here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/217372079/ Good magnet source (I bought the sample pack): http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ Paul www.casl.net On 8/15/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Nice; how about the rest of us submitting their idea-jewels for something to do. Could make for some interesting reading for a change. Here's a couple: On F3x fuses with opaque (typically carbon) canopies, I machine a slot which is long enough to view one of those nifty battery LED's. The slot is offset to one side such that just prior to launch I can glance at it and not only know PWR is present, but where it's at. I then Goop the LED display to the inside of the canopy. A side benefit is that technically, even if the canopy departs the aircraft on launch/landing it remains tethered, thus allowing you to score on that round. The lead material supplied on most imported F3x aircraft, it seems the prerequisite is to find the absolute cheapest material produced by mankind. The awg is poor, and the insulation will depart on a hot day. One might consider replacing it. The piddly switches supplied with our systems are average at best, especially for competition use. They have been known to fail. Simply replace the entire switch assembly with a 2-pin high quality bullet-type connector used to supply PWR to small electrics, and your servos will see higher voltage. Add to this that typical bullet-type connectorship has cycle rates in the 100's, which rivals the original slider switch. Quoting Harley Michaelis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > That's clever, Tom. Thanks for passing it on. I lament the absence of > neat, > creative ideas that used to be presented by many. > > - Original Message - > From: "Thomas Koszuta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:42 AM > Subject: Re: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an > inaccessible > area > > > > I've done the same thing with heavy thread. > > > > Drill a hole of the fuse in both sides, where you want to attach the > > tube. > > > Using a long upholstery needle, go into one side and out the other, > > reverse the needle and loop the thread around the tube as you pass > > the > > needle back out. > > > > If you are sewing in a tube on both sides, you obviously need to loop > > both > > > of them before sealing the holes. > > > > Pull the tubing up tight to the fuse side and fill the hole with > > baking > > soda. Hit it with thin CA, then sand flush. > > > > (I didn't see/read the whole thread, so if someone already suggested > > this, > > > apologies.) > > > > Tom Koszuta > > Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers > > Buffalo, NY > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Cc: > > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 2:30 PM > > Subject: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible > > area > > > > > >> This applies to a translucent fuselage, such as unpainted glass. If > >> the > >> tube to be installed is one nothing wants to stick to, decide on the > >> spots where you want it attached and shrink a sleeve of HS tubing > >> at > >> those spots on the tube. > >> > >> Position the tube. Just above it, drill small holes in the fuselage, > >> such > > >> as 1/8", at the location of the HS pieces. Bend a common pin so it > >> can be > > >> inserted into the hole to pull the tubing against the inside of the > >> fuselage. Remove the needle from a small syringe. Put some > >> quickepoxy in > >> it. Let gravity help get it where wanted. Put a tiny spring clamp on > >> the > >> pin. Snip when the epoxy has cured. > >> > >> > >> - Original Message - > >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> Sent: Saturd
Re: [RCSE] RE: Great Ideas
Now that is really cool. No holes to drill...good one! Here is another: On bagged wings I'm working on for the world speed record I finally figured out how to get a straight TE that I can cut paper with that is also strong enough to handle some hanger rash. Use carbon matt for the final 0.20" (sandwiched between the upper and lower cloth), it's thin enough to create a finished edge (out of the mylar) less than 0.02" (typically 0.015"). Doesn't anyone else have some great ideas they can share? Paul Emerson wrote: Not sure if this qualifies as "Great" but . . . Mounting pushrod housings inside a tailboom or fuselage: With a music wire pushrod, hold the housing in place using neodymium magnets on the outside of the boom. Then hold the boom upright and dribble thin CA down the housing (being careful not to get it inside the housing of course), mist some kicker in there and you are done. You can then remove the piano wire and put a CF rod in the housing if you like. Works good on all fuses/booms. Some like to add small wraps of thread or tape along the housing to give the CA more to bite into. I find on good etched teflon housing this is not necessary, and it impedes the flow of CA down the boom. Picture here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/217372079/ Good magnet source (I bought the sample pack): http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ Paul www.casl.net On 8/15/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Nice; how about the rest of us submitting their idea-jewels for something to do. Could make for some interesting reading for a change. Here's a couple: On F3x fuses with opaque (typically carbon) canopies, I machine a slot which is long enough to view one of those nifty battery LED's. The slot is offset to one side such that just prior to launch I can glance at it and not only know PWR is present, but where it's at. I then Goop the LED display to the inside of the canopy. A side benefit is that technically, even if the canopy departs the aircraft on launch/landing it remains tethered, thus allowing you to score on that round. The lead material supplied on most imported F3x aircraft, it seems the prerequisite is to find the absolute cheapest material produced by mankind. The awg is poor, and the insulation will depart on a hot day. One might consider replacing it. The piddly switches supplied with our systems are average at best, especially for competition use. They have been known to fail. Simply replace the entire switch assembly with a 2-pin high quality bullet-type connector used to supply PWR to small electrics, and your servos will see higher voltage. Add to this that typical bullet-type connectorship has cycle rates in the 100's, which rivals the original slider switch. Quoting Harley Michaelis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > That's clever, Tom. Thanks for passing it on. I lament the absence of neat, > creative ideas that used to be presented by many. > > - Original Message - > From: "Thomas Koszuta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:42 AM > Subject: Re: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible > area > > > > I've done the same thing with heavy thread. > > > > Drill a hole of the fuse in both sides, where you want to attach the tube. > > > Using a long upholstery needle, go into one side and out the other, > > reverse the needle and loop the thread around the tube as you pass the > > needle back out. > > > > If you are sewing in a tube on both sides, you obviously need to loop both > > > of them before sealing the holes. > > > > Pull the tubing up tight to the fuse side and fill the hole with baking > > soda. Hit it with thin CA, then sand flush. > > > > (I didn't see/read the whole thread, so if someone already suggested this, > > > apologies.) > > > > Tom Koszuta > > Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers > > Buffalo, NY > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Cc: > > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 2:30 PM > > Subject: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible area > > > > > >> This applies to a translucent fuselage, such as unpainted glass. If the > >> tube to be installed is one nothing wants to stick to, decide on the > >> spots where you want it attached and shrink a sleeve of HS tubing at > >> those spots on the tube. > >> > >> Position the tube. Just above it, drill small holes in the fuselage, such > > >> as 1/8", at the location of the HS pieces. Bend a common pin so it can be > > >> inserted into the hole to pull the tubing against the inside of the > >> fuselage. Remove the needle from a small syringe. Put some quickepoxy in > >> it. Let gravity help get it where wanted. Put a tiny spring clamp on the > >> pin. Snip when the epoxy has cured. > >> > >> > >> - Original Message - > >> From: <[E
[RCSE] RE: Great Ideas
Not sure if this qualifies as "Great" but . . . Mounting pushrod housings inside a tailboom or fuselage: With a music wire pushrod, hold the housing in place using neodymium magnets on the outside of the boom. Then hold the boom upright and dribble thin CA down the housing (being careful not to get it inside the housing of course), mist some kicker in there and you are done. You can then remove the piano wire and put a CF rod in the housing if you like. Works good on all fuses/booms. Some like to add small wraps of thread or tape along the housing to give the CA more to bite into. I find on good etched teflon housing this is not necessary, and it impedes the flow of CA down the boom. Picture here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/217372079/ Good magnet source (I bought the sample pack): http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ Paul www.casl.net On 8/15/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Nice; how about the rest of us submitting their idea-jewels for something to do. Could make for some interesting reading for a change. Here's a couple: On F3x fuses with opaque (typically carbon) canopies, I machine a slot which is long enough to view one of those nifty battery LED's. The slot is offset to one side such that just prior to launch I can glance at it and not only know PWR is present, but where it's at. I then Goop the LED display to the inside of the canopy. A side benefit is that technically, even if the canopy departs the aircraft on launch/landing it remains tethered, thus allowing you to score on that round. The lead material supplied on most imported F3x aircraft, it seems the prerequisite is to find the absolute cheapest material produced by mankind. The awg is poor, and the insulation will depart on a hot day. One might consider replacing it. The piddly switches supplied with our systems are average at best, especially for competition use. They have been known to fail. Simply replace the entire switch assembly with a 2-pin high quality bullet-type connector used to supply PWR to small electrics, and your servos will see higher voltage. Add to this that typical bullet-type connectorship has cycle rates in the 100's, which rivals the original slider switch. Quoting Harley Michaelis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > That's clever, Tom. Thanks for passing it on. I lament the absence of neat, > creative ideas that used to be presented by many. > > - Original Message - > From: "Thomas Koszuta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:42 AM > Subject: Re: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible > area > > > > I've done the same thing with heavy thread. > > > > Drill a hole of the fuse in both sides, where you want to attach the tube. > > > Using a long upholstery needle, go into one side and out the other, > > reverse the needle and loop the thread around the tube as you pass the > > needle back out. > > > > If you are sewing in a tube on both sides, you obviously need to loop both > > > of them before sealing the holes. > > > > Pull the tubing up tight to the fuse side and fill the hole with baking > > soda. Hit it with thin CA, then sand flush. > > > > (I didn't see/read the whole thread, so if someone already suggested this, > > > apologies.) > > > > Tom Koszuta > > Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers > > Buffalo, NY > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Cc: > > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 2:30 PM > > Subject: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible area > > > > > >> This applies to a translucent fuselage, such as unpainted glass. If the > >> tube to be installed is one nothing wants to stick to, decide on the > >> spots where you want it attached and shrink a sleeve of HS tubing at > >> those spots on the tube. > >> > >> Position the tube. Just above it, drill small holes in the fuselage, such > > >> as 1/8", at the location of the HS pieces. Bend a common pin so it can be > > >> inserted into the hole to pull the tubing against the inside of the > >> fuselage. Remove the needle from a small syringe. Put some quickepoxy in > >> it. Let gravity help get it where wanted. Put a tiny spring clamp on the > >> pin. Snip when the epoxy has cured. > >> > >> > >> - Original Message - > >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 6:57 PM > >> Subject: Re: [RCSE] build tip > >> > >> > >>> thx, glad i can help some. > >>> > >>> i'm always looking for a better way, can't believe i didn't of this a > >>> long time ago. > >>> > >>> Dave Hauch > >>> www.git-r-built.com > >>> - Original Message - > >>> From: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 7:40 PM > >>> Subject: Re: [RCSE] build tip > >>> > >>> > Good idea, Dave. T
RE: [RCSE] Re: Great Ideas
I shed my canopy with my NYX on launch once at a big event and flew out the round without a Zeroed flight. I was told it wasn't shed on landing so I got my points. This was in 2004 Not to say that's the right interpretation of the AMA rule?? Andy AKA "Glidernut" Team SWSA -Original Message- From: David Register [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:36 PM To: Soaring@airage.com Subject: [RCSE] Re: Great Ideas Back in the day.. The AMA rule used to state that if you shed a part on landing you were zero'ed for that landing. Not sure if that's how it reads now but Back when Paragon's were the hot new ship (mid-70s), the canopy was typically secured with a rubber band inside the fuse connected to a hook on the bottom of the canopy tray. As launches became more aggressive, it was not unusual to see a Paragon flip the canopy over the side of the plane at the top of the launch. Quite often this would stay attached until the end where it might drag on the ground and pop off giving you a zero for the landing. However, if you could jettison the canopy during the flight, you were OK. Many's the SC^2 when a Paragon would go into wild gyrations before setting up for landing just to launch that pesky canopy overboard. Necessity being the mother that it is, slip on nose cones soon followed. - Dave R >Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:59:12 -0700 >From: "George Meyers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, >"Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: >Subject: Re: [RCSE] Great Ideas >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I've heard of contests where the ruling was if the canopy came loose and was >still attached by a string or other device, you had to be willing to launch >the sailplane that way or take a zero for the landing. > > > I then Goop the LED display to the inside of the canopy. A side benefit >is that > > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Great Ideas
Back in the day.. The AMA rule used to state that if you shed a part on landing you were zero'ed for that landing. Not sure if that's how it reads now but Back when Paragon's were the hot new ship (mid-70s), the canopy was typically secured with a rubber band inside the fuse connected to a hook on the bottom of the canopy tray. As launches became more aggressive, it was not unusual to see a Paragon flip the canopy over the side of the plane at the top of the launch. Quite often this would stay attached until the end where it might drag on the ground and pop off giving you a zero for the landing. However, if you could jettison the canopy during the flight, you were OK. Many's the SC^2 when a Paragon would go into wild gyrations before setting up for landing just to launch that pesky canopy overboard. Necessity being the mother that it is, slip on nose cones soon followed. - Dave R Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:59:12 -0700 From: "George Meyers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Subject: Re: [RCSE] Great Ideas Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've heard of contests where the ruling was if the canopy came loose and was still attached by a string or other device, you had to be willing to launch the sailplane that way or take a zero for the landing. > I then Goop the LED display to the inside of the canopy. A side benefit is that RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
