Re: National Summer Steamup -- July 27-29, 2001

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi  David,
  Who  is  taking  registrations  and  sign  ups?.  (Kevin?).
  Also,  do  you  know  any  details 
of  the  St  Louis  May  Steamup  at  all.
  Please  advise,  when you  have chance.
  Thanks,  Regards,
   Tony D.
At 04:07 PM 1/2/01 -0800, you wrote:
>PRESS RELEASE
>For more information, contact PCLS at (916) 447-5433.
>January 2, 2001
>
>
>SACRAMENTO, Calif. -- The Pacific Coast Live Steamers, a loosely organized
>group of practitioners of the art of small-scale live steam train
>operation, has announced that the National Summer Steamup will be July
>27-29, 2001 in Sacramento, Calif.
>
>Small scale live steam engines are modeled in scales from 1:13 to 1:32 and
>run on tracks that are either 32mm or 45mm wide. They are propelled by
>steam generated in small, safe boilers, using butane, alcohol or coal for
>heat.
>
>Called the "Sacramento 49er Special," the cost of attending the event will
>be $49 and the room rate at the hotel will be $49 a night, including
>continental breakfast.
>
>The National Summer Steamup will be held at the Canterbury Inn in
>Sacramento, which can be contacted by voice at (916) 927-0927 or by fax at
>(916) 641-8594. The hotel is located at 900 Canterbury Road. Room
>registrations are separate from event registration.
>
>Featuring three live steam tracks -- a newly built 110-foot portable track
>with 10-foot radius curves and one 45mm track and one 45mm and 32mm
>dual-gauged track, a second 50-foot dual-gauged track with eight-foot
>curves and a 50-foot 32mm track -- the steamup will include workshops,
>visits to the nearby California State Railroad Museum, optional trips on
>local prototypical steam railways as well as a Saturday night pool-side
>barbeque.
>
>This event replaces the National Spring Steamup organized over the last six
>years by Richard Finlayson. At last year's event, Finlayson -- a San Jose,
>Calif., hobbyist, supplier and the web master of STEAM IN THE GARDEN
>magazine's web site -- passed the responsibility for organizing a West
>Coast steamup to the PCLS group, of which is he a founder.
>
>The general superintendent of the event is Kevin O'Connor, a longtime small
>scale live steam hobbyist who is based in Sacramento and considered a top
>authority on the hobby. The track superintendent and raffle manager is Mike
>Martin, a Redwood City, Calif., resident who is the designer of the Project
>Loco, an inexpensive "starter" small scale live steamer that uses readily
>available parts to introduce people to the hobby.
>
>For more information on the National Summer Steamup, contact PCLS at (916)
>447-5433, write P.O. Box 161631, Sacramento, Calif. 95816, send e-mail to
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] or visit the group's web site at www.p-c-l-s.com.
>
>
>^^^
>Dave Cole
>Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
>   Pacifica, Calif. USA  
>List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
>   
>Editor:   TRELLIS & TRESTLE, the newsletter of the
>   Bay Area Garden Railway Society 
>   
>Webconductor: Pacific Coast Live Steamers 
>   
>^^^
>
>
 

Re: Las Vegas Live Steamers Monthly Steamup Invtation

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi  Clark,
  Thought  you  would  be at 
Diamond  Head?..  Work  commitments  keep  me  from  DH, 
as  well,so  your  open  invitation  sounded  like  the  perfect 
alternative.  But   my  RV  transmission  died  in  LA  this  weekend  also 
  and  I  cannot  pick  it  up till  Saturday.
  So  I  will  have  to  miss  both  weekend  events.  But  please  keep 
me  posted  on  your  next  steamup dates
Thanks, Best  Regards,
  Tony  D. (Livermore, CA.)

At 03:04 PM 1/2/01 -0800, you wrote:
>Howdy all.  This coming Saturday, January 6th, will be the fourth of my
>monthly steamups here at the house.  We will start at around 8:30 a.m.
>and run engines and trains till 1 or 2 in the afternoon.  The extended
>forecast for Las Vegas calls for super weather, 70 degree high and
>little or no wind.  These are perfect conditions for steaming up.
>
>You are invited whether you own a live steamer or are just interested in
>learning more about small scale live steam.  You can even run one of my
>engines if you want.  Both steam or battery powered engines/trains are
>welcome.
>
>For those that live in the greater Las Vegas area you already know where
>I live.  For those that may come from out of town call 431-3568 if you
>are in town.  For those who are coming from out of town call
>1-800-578-9639 for directions.
>
>You may have noticed the name Las Vegas Live Steamers.  Yep, I have been
>encouraged to use the LVLS name for our group.  I am copying this idea
>(monthly steamups & badge) from Jim Crabb of Houston.  Jim hosts this
>very thing in Houston.  He started with 2 or 3 fellows and now 20 plus
>show up.  Pretty good!
>
>Here in Las Vegas there are now 7 people (that I know about) that have
>live steamers.  Besides my roster of engines there are 3 Ruby owners, 2
>Frank S owners and a brand new Roundhouse Fowler owner.  The Fowler is a
>0-6-2 outside framed chassis with two double acting slide valve
>cylinders operated by Walschaerts type valve gear.  I expect to help
>with and watch it's maiden run this Saturday.
>
>I intend that LVLS will be a special interest group of the Las Vegas
>Garden Railway Society.  Membership in LVGRS is not required to
>participate however.   I just wanted to preserve the LVLS name for our
>group.
>
>Having said that, I want to make a large button (3 inch diameter) with
>an identifiable scene as a background and your name in LARGE type so we
>can be reminded of the new guy's or gal's name.  Your suggestions are
>most welcome.
>
>We're gonna have fun.  Ya'all come now ya'hear.
>
>Clark Lord
>Las Vegas
 

Re: Inkjet decal paper/Alps printers.

[VR Bass]

> A couple of things that Vance didn't mention ( but that he knows about) is
> that the Alps let you make metallic Decals. Gold and Silver

Phil, I could swear that I mentioned silver and gold, but my mind has been 
overloaded lately trying to keep life going and get everything ready for DH at 
the same time.  I've used the gold a LOT.  The first decal I made with my 
printer was a gold Epiphone logo to go on the headstock of a 1964 guitar I 
was restoring.  I've also put gold lettering (with red drop shadows) on the cab 
and tender of my Ruby.  It's absolutely beautiful.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

Re: Repeatable curves

[WaltSwartz]

In that case, I would bend the rail the other way! Much would depend on 
whether the rail was drawn or put thru a series of turks heads. A very slight 
asymmetrical run could account for a lot of difference. If the head and foot 
of the rail are not exactly equal on either side of a vertical centerline, 
this difference would result. Probably more likely to happen with rolled 
(turks head) rather than die drawn rail.
Keep your steam up!
Walt & Lunk 

Re: Inkjet decal paper/Alps printers.

[Phil. Paskos]

A couple of things that Vance didn't mention ( but that he knows about) is
that the Alps let you make metallic Decals. Gold and Silver for railroad
use. And of course the ever present white that everyone uses. I know you can
get white based decal paper, but it's not the same.

Phil.P. Reading,Pa.

> In a posting on a different list one of the
> contributors suggested using the transfer product
> available for doing T-shirts etc.  I have not tried
> either decal or transfer however the latter is
> definitely waterproof even with inkjet printer ink.
> The short falls I see to the process are 1) your
> software must be able to produce a mirror image so
> that the transfer comes out correctly and 2)the
> transfer process is not opaque so the background will
> "bleed" through and 3)heat is required to accomplish
> the transfer. I have used the transfer materials for
> making signs, as in billboards and on wall, and the
> effect is great.  HP and Epson are both claiming that
> the inks used by their newer color printers are
> "water-proof".  I have tried blotting a photo printed
> on standard multipurpose paper, considerably different
> than immersing the photo, and the ink did not run
> altho the crispness of the photo did suffer.  I also
> performed the same experiment on the celluloid "foils"
> material and here I did experience bleeding.  I have
> not had access to decal paper so can not address this
> specifically.
> mp
>

 

Re: Inkjet decal paper

[Clark Lord]

Peter Trounce wrote:
> So you either have to use decals on white paper, which means that you have
> to cut neatly round the decal edges, or you have to lay down a white area,
> on which to put the decal.

Very illuminating Peter.  I hadn't even given that a thought.  Boy would
I have egg on my face after I got the trial kit of paper only to
rediscover that you can't see them on black surfaces.  Now I am
beginning to see why folks are using the vinyl letters and heralds for
sides of tenders and the like.

CB 

Re: Inkjet decal paper

[Peter Trounce]

I've done a small amount of trying to make waterslide decals with an
ink-jet printer and there is one basic problem.
Inkjet colours are dyes which are almost transparent.
If you notice, the ads. for the waterslide paper show finished decals
usually applied to white surfaces.
Like on white paper the decal shows up nicely, but try that decal on a
black or dark surface, and it plain disappears.
Even those made on an ALPS printer (which can give you a base white pigment
layer) are very thin on a dark surface.
So you either have to use decals on white paper, which means that you have
to cut neatly round the decal edges, or you have to lay down a white area,
on which to put the decal.
Presumably, commercial decals use pigments ?
Peter.

--
> From: Clark Lord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Inkjet decal paper
> Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 6:15 PM
> 
> Vance:  Thank you for your informative reply.  I was aware of most of
> your points but I have not actually tried making decals myself.  I am
> sneaking up on building my Mikado kit (It has been normalizing for a
> year while resting under the workbench.) and I want to make my own
> decals.
> 
> After reading your RGB/CMYK discussions I believe my HP722c Deskjet
> printer uses the CMYK method for color.  I know that RGB color is more
> like TV where different combinations of red, green and blue are placed
> next to one another and this forms the color image we see. 
> 
> Where the CMYK method is akin to process color printing where the
> different colors (CMYK) are laid on top of one another to get the final
> result.  Four different printing plates are needed, one for each color. 
> This is how color magazines are printed.
> 
> So the problem remains for the hobbyist who is making his own color
> decals.  What to use?  What results can you expect?  How much will it
> cost?  Is it within my technical ability?  That's why I posted what I
> did so maybe some answers could be found.  I agree that buying 100
> sheets of specialty paper is way too much.  However my suggestion was to
> buy the starter paper kit for $16.95 which included enough stuff for
> five 8.5"x11" sheets of decals.
> 
> Thank you Gary Lane for informing us as to using water slide paper and
> the local color copy house.  That seems to be a pretty good solution
> provided you can do the art work.
> 
> I do have MS Publisher, Corel Draw and Paint Shop Pro to fool around
> with to see if I can do the art.  Failing that then I'm left with
> Vance's suggestion of going to a commercial decal house for both the art
> work and finished product.  That sounds like  to me.
> 
> Almost time for Diamondhead 2001.  I'll be there Wednesday morning
> providing the weather in Dallas is flyable.  (LV-Dallas-NO)
> 
> Clark
> 
> VR Bass wrote:
> > 
> > Clark,
> > 
> > Inkjet decals have a number of serious problems: the ink is not
water-proof
> > (can be clear-coated, however); the ink is not UV-resistant (it fades
in the
> > sunlight); the ink is not very opaque, so the color underneath tends to
show
> > through your decal; inkjets will only print RGB images (colors made of
red,
> > green and blue).  The last is not a problem as long as your image is
made
> > only of these colors.
> > 
> > The reason so many hobbyists (and many companies) have started using
> > Alps printers is that the thermal wax printing method doesn't have
these
> > problems.  The wax is water-proof, though it must be clear-coated if
it's going
> > to be handled.  The pigments are UV-resistant and very opaque.  You can
> > print CMYK (cyan-magenta-yellow-black) as well as silver, gold and
white.
> > 
> > The bad news is that Alps no longer imports these printers, though
Okidata
> > has licensed the technology and there's a user movement to get them to
> > make the printers available again here.  The worse news is that almost
no
> > one has been satisfied with the ink-jet decals.  You'd be better off
making
> > yourself a silk-screen table and learning how to make them the
old-fashioned
> > way (it's not really that hard).
> > 
> > In short, I would say you shouldn't buy 100 sheets of ink-jet paper
without
> > trying one first to see if you like the results. There's a guy who does
model
> > decals full-time on Alps printers who's doing work for Hartford
Products and
> > others.  I can give you his e-mail address if you're interested.
> > 
> > -vance-  

Re: Inkjet decal paper

[M. Paterson]

In a posting on a different list one of the
contributors suggested using the transfer product
available for doing T-shirts etc.  I have not tried
either decal or transfer however the latter is
definitely waterproof even with inkjet printer ink. 
The short falls I see to the process are 1) your
software must be able to produce a mirror image so
that the transfer comes out correctly and 2)the
transfer process is not opaque so the background will
"bleed" through and 3)heat is required to accomplish
the transfer. I have used the transfer materials for
making signs, as in billboards and on wall, and the
effect is great.  HP and Epson are both claiming that
the inks used by their newer color printers are
"water-proof".  I have tried blotting a photo printed
on standard multipurpose paper, considerably different
than immersing the photo, and the ink did not run
altho the crispness of the photo did suffer.  I also
performed the same experiment on the celluloid "foils"
material and here I did experience bleeding.  I have
not had access to decal paper so can not address this
specifically.
mp

--- Clark Lord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Vance:  Thank you for your informative reply.  I was
> aware of most of
> your points but I have not actually tried making
> decals myself.  I am
> sneaking up on building my Mikado kit (It has been
> normalizing for a
> year while resting under the workbench.) and I want
> to make my own
> decals.
> 
> After reading your RGB/CMYK discussions I believe my
> HP722c Deskjet
> printer uses the CMYK method for color.  I know that
> RGB color is more
> like TV where different combinations of red, green
> and blue are placed
> next to one another and this forms the color image
> we see. 
> 
> Where the CMYK method is akin to process color
> printing where the
> different colors (CMYK) are laid on top of one
> another to get the final
> result.  Four different printing plates are needed,
> one for each color. 
> This is how color magazines are printed.
> 
> So the problem remains for the hobbyist who is
> making his own color
> decals.  What to use?  What results can you expect? 
> How much will it
> cost?  Is it within my technical ability?  That's
> why I posted what I
> did so maybe some answers could be found.  I agree
> that buying 100
> sheets of specialty paper is way too much.  However
> my suggestion was to
> buy the starter paper kit for $16.95 which included
> enough stuff for
> five 8.5"x11" sheets of decals.
> 
> Thank you Gary Lane for informing us as to using
> water slide paper and
> the local color copy house.  That seems to be a
> pretty good solution
> provided you can do the art work.
> 
> I do have MS Publisher, Corel Draw and Paint Shop
> Pro to fool around
> with to see if I can do the art.  Failing that then
> I'm left with
> Vance's suggestion of going to a commercial decal
> house for both the art
> work and finished product.  That sounds like  to
> me.
> 
> Almost time for Diamondhead 2001.  I'll be there
> Wednesday morning
> providing the weather in Dallas is flyable. 
> (LV-Dallas-NO)
> 
> Clark
> 
> VR Bass wrote:
> > 
> > Clark,
> > 
> > Inkjet decals have a number of serious problems:
> the ink is not water-proof
> > (can be clear-coated, however); the ink is not
> UV-resistant (it fades in the
> > sunlight); the ink is not very opaque, so the
> color underneath tends to show
> > through your decal; inkjets will only print RGB
> images (colors made of red,
> > green and blue).  The last is not a problem as
> long as your image is made
> > only of these colors.
> > 
> > The reason so many hobbyists (and many companies)
> have started using
> > Alps printers is that the thermal wax printing
> method doesn't have these
> > problems.  The wax is water-proof, though it must
> be clear-coated if it's going
> > to be handled.  The pigments are UV-resistant and
> very opaque.  You can
> > print CMYK (cyan-magenta-yellow-black) as well as
> silver, gold and white.
> > 
> > The bad news is that Alps no longer imports these
> printers, though Okidata
> > has licensed the technology and there's a user
> movement to get them to
> > make the printers available again here.  The worse
> news is that almost no
> > one has been satisfied with the ink-jet decals. 
> You'd be better off making
> > yourself a silk-screen table and learning how to
> make them the old-fashioned
> > way (it's not really that hard).
> > 
> > In short, I would say you shouldn't buy 100 sheets
> of ink-jet paper without
> > trying one first to see if you like the results.
> There's a guy who does model
> > decals full-time on Alps printers who's doing work
> for Hartford Products and
> > others.  I can give you his e-mail address if
> you're interested.
> > 
> > -vance- 


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/ 

Re: Inkjet decal paper

[Clark Lord]

Vance:  Thank you for your informative reply.  I was aware of most of
your points but I have not actually tried making decals myself.  I am
sneaking up on building my Mikado kit (It has been normalizing for a
year while resting under the workbench.) and I want to make my own
decals.

After reading your RGB/CMYK discussions I believe my HP722c Deskjet
printer uses the CMYK method for color.  I know that RGB color is more
like TV where different combinations of red, green and blue are placed
next to one another and this forms the color image we see. 

Where the CMYK method is akin to process color printing where the
different colors (CMYK) are laid on top of one another to get the final
result.  Four different printing plates are needed, one for each color. 
This is how color magazines are printed.

So the problem remains for the hobbyist who is making his own color
decals.  What to use?  What results can you expect?  How much will it
cost?  Is it within my technical ability?  That's why I posted what I
did so maybe some answers could be found.  I agree that buying 100
sheets of specialty paper is way too much.  However my suggestion was to
buy the starter paper kit for $16.95 which included enough stuff for
five 8.5"x11" sheets of decals.

Thank you Gary Lane for informing us as to using water slide paper and
the local color copy house.  That seems to be a pretty good solution
provided you can do the art work.

I do have MS Publisher, Corel Draw and Paint Shop Pro to fool around
with to see if I can do the art.  Failing that then I'm left with
Vance's suggestion of going to a commercial decal house for both the art
work and finished product.  That sounds like  to me.

Almost time for Diamondhead 2001.  I'll be there Wednesday morning
providing the weather in Dallas is flyable.  (LV-Dallas-NO)

Clark

VR Bass wrote:
> 
> Clark,
> 
> Inkjet decals have a number of serious problems: the ink is not water-proof
> (can be clear-coated, however); the ink is not UV-resistant (it fades in the
> sunlight); the ink is not very opaque, so the color underneath tends to show
> through your decal; inkjets will only print RGB images (colors made of red,
> green and blue).  The last is not a problem as long as your image is made
> only of these colors.
> 
> The reason so many hobbyists (and many companies) have started using
> Alps printers is that the thermal wax printing method doesn't have these
> problems.  The wax is water-proof, though it must be clear-coated if it's going
> to be handled.  The pigments are UV-resistant and very opaque.  You can
> print CMYK (cyan-magenta-yellow-black) as well as silver, gold and white.
> 
> The bad news is that Alps no longer imports these printers, though Okidata
> has licensed the technology and there's a user movement to get them to
> make the printers available again here.  The worse news is that almost no
> one has been satisfied with the ink-jet decals.  You'd be better off making
> yourself a silk-screen table and learning how to make them the old-fashioned
> way (it's not really that hard).
> 
> In short, I would say you shouldn't buy 100 sheets of ink-jet paper without
> trying one first to see if you like the results. There's a guy who does model
> decals full-time on Alps printers who's doing work for Hartford Products and
> others.  I can give you his e-mail address if you're interested.
> 
> -vance- 

Re: Salty's Ruby Modification

[SALTYCRABB]

In a message dated 01/04/01 2:56:44 PM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (M. Paterson) writes:

<< 
 Can someone repost the photo's or tell me what I am
 doing wrong >>


The simple way would be to go to Vance Bass's website 
<>

Go to What's new -- then Ruby Photo gallery -- Salty's is the last Ruby Photo.

Jim Crabb
Seabrook (Houston), Texas 

Re: Roundhouse SRRL#24

[Don Plasterer]

I experienced the problem with mine about a year ago,  I solved it by 
cleaning off the rust with a Scotch Brite pad them giving the wheels & 
linkage a light coat of 3-1 oil.  I haven't had the problem since.  Just 
make sure to recoat the wheels when you are putting the engine away.

Don Plasterer


>From: "Charles W. Walters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Roundhouse SRRL#24
>Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 19:42:53 -0500
>
>A question for anyone who owns a RH SRRL #24.  I have noticed a fair amount
>of surface rust on the drivers.  Any one else experiencing this?
>
>Chuck Walters
>http://home.twcny.rr.com/cnylsrs
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

RE: Steam Areoplanes too? (O.T.)

[Ciambrone, Steve @ OS]

The Whitehead story seems to have become an American tall tale and the
result of a delusional eccentric. Aviation historians who do not have a
financial interest in keeping the legend alive dispute the claims and note
the lack of evidence.

See http://www.first-to-fly.com/History/Whitehead.htm

Besides if you look at the physics involved in flying an airplane and the
power output of a steam engine compared to an IC engine of the same weight
the IC engine wins out.  If you look at turn of the Century technology it
even looks worse.   Also note the earliest powered planes barely flew with
the power available from those IC engines.

Steve Ciambrone

-Original Message-
From:   William F. Kaiser [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent:   Thursday, January 04, 2001 12:46 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject:RE: Steam Areoplanes too? (O.T.)

On Wed, 3 Jan 2001, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote:

> 
> I do not know of any successful "heavier than air" man carrying
aircraft
> powered by steam.
> 

Many years ago I read an article about a guy whose name, I believe,
was
Gustav Whitehead, who built a steam powered airplane around 1901.
He and
an assistant were flying around in it when they crashed into a
church
steeple, and he gave up on flying. 

A few years ago I was half listening to a newscast from a CT
station,
saying a group was trying to get the world to recognize that this
guy
accomplished the first manned powered flight, and that it was done
in CT.

I haven't ever run across any other information concerning this guy
or his
flight, but supposedly he wrote a letter to an inventor type
magazine at
the time saying he had successfully flown.

--
Bill Kaiser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.
 

begin 600 winmail.dat
M>)\^(@45`0:0"``$```!``$``0>0!@`(Y`0```#H``$(@`<`
M&$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`06``P`.T0@`@@!@``P$8`5(4```$%
M."XP-``#``^`""`&``#`1@`!A0L``(`(
M(`8``,!&``.%"P`C@`@@!@``P```
M`$8`#H4#``*`""`&``#`1@`0A0``
M``,`!X`((`8``,!&`!&%`P`E@`@@!@``
MP$8`&(4>`#2`""`&``#`1@`V
MA0```0$`'@`U@`@@!@``P$8`-X4```$`
M```!`!X`-H`((`8``,!&`#B%```!`0``
M```"`0D0`0```-\)``#;"0``>!0``$Q:1G71D7,$`P`*`')C<&Y&_0GXK\F3RH?*=TI7R>/*U0Y
M#E`?+J0P`2@C,``"@G-T>6IL!Y!H">!T```#\&088W1L"K$`8&1J=7,Q<`40
M9V@%0A8R#`%CAPG`,D`#,'-N97@7,"\'L`6P`,`"H($\/\'0!!A`4`.`&LB/`)[Y0(0WF\%0A;4PP`Q`'D'Z030W@`V#D$/Q@@(]2S1C`R`2\P"`!9!L=O\_8420#G`U((/B`9``((1R
M_WK1=H$!P8/A%N`/<```1)#S#-`!D"`N&A*#V`Y0A)+_2W`RL(4/AA^'+P_`
M1)`%@;>(SXG?BN]L9@!$D&R(C_N-3XY5*8=<)4",+Y$/CD3X8B`H`I&2+X0C
M59"/W_^4GY6OEK^$4%Z0F`*$WYEO_YI_AUPH`)@/G8^>GY^OA%#_<@"U0QT"!7:+5*P&4\`B`Q<`6P>:T`6PG@>8`@K2`[
M\&%*\6+K!9$'@"`#D4$'@`40>W![`Z`!D&P#(*^!KJ(T8'2[K$$:\'-+8H``
MKK`@`0#O"D``D`(@!T`@!9"`@`(P_:\A+J[@>H!4\+&Q._`$`&>M(0.&NL&(P2O'_/#!L@&(0$X"P8H.`"W"MH<^P(K1QN'0+8&-KL0)B@/>IX`GP
M@(`N"H4*A09@$X"!JP!T<#HO+W>\L%XN:9`7`%.`K2`M#T!Y0A@MS!]$+I`5/"P4\U,$'D-T<"1;G8&
M\&*0OS1@J9&]@3Q"`Y$+<'(+4?LTH+`7<'@`!)"Q`&(0N$'?L00Q<#P0?Q`)
M\&=B0;C`GP-P"K'"P:W1`Y%)0\9&_[$1L&)$$*Z1Q/"JX[!BQ[C_`_`&,6(!
MLJ#'H,#-"'`#H/W(54-V@0APK5!5`!;0$U#]"0!GK5!*P+J!"?#!$[/A[P6P
M%Q#*X:[@;'_PN7@\$/]K4`B0MB'$T\+!P_,$($@P_QKP9_##$0?1`_"P8,2)
MKA!_@6$!H*_Q`U*P41-BQ[=SS[L=J/2IOZK%>U-5`$KQ_D,',`;0`V`TH-5_
MUH-B,#]WE=`/X11I>^)/XU]L;ZL/_X.A###<=09@`C#J-!HBW(0#K#`(<'-D87DL(/I*
M`'!U"L"M4!1`]K`!T$8P#I`.(#HT-DN03>_5YO1)5!'U34U+804@K_'_&O"U
M<+:P=H'*D;$@!!"WPI_%\_AO]-%49?5-4D54,3/&`P<096_15:T@;S_!HZ!/
M+E0N*>V_J9)?VI_RKZN8_-C<=4\"D%?["8#VL#/VPO>#]K#8I_:P]=A$0(`P
M4[/P$:!5`;LLZCX)^$FT-FL34-)@L1)>;JU1#G"`@!:09DM@(#XB/`%Z@;O@
MTJ##E"(@?Q6QN,#9X*U`PU/#T*6@8?=X<`H'T-9BK5'&`KL6"G>WV:5VP`Q!
M>=!!N2%GK>!_"R`:\*SAPY(:D'^PK_)B\\JQL3%G=?N$G5PL0#WPP:RH+LL0;40TE$3
M"A;Q_:WQ;+$@Y1#%\3H"QT.T8,][0[8AU!..H$-4K0&R\_XL(.;VD,-3%3`:
M\2*P)8*_!!##0ZW1MV#!A,[1;,\'E2LO3_O<"ZX3GS+.>Q`+O@LU'9
MI>\P1ACP?3`,<'#$T$A1T@'_*T()0K$QY5"\4`V"QV/"8=]V@3>1>B(.02)0
M>L:"5/#_V:6P8DK0KI$I):Q!6>$,:=O2`W@`;KL=W^="ZJ'K-?_9I>P?[2:[
M+*PQ'8''`;!1/]'@R/'VD*VSM$&.H&IO=F)3\!-P;P;AS6!)4'#=(<1Q&0"Z
M,+L66<#QKT+[M+0,073.T+L6)&!'&4:R_\[!,[*N4$@<2K9((TN,1W/_2CA'
M=4V_(C%'(;L6W->W`/H_`0```!8```!#:6%M8G)O;F4L(%-T979E($`@3U,`
M```>`#E``0```!!35$5612Y#24%-0E)/3D4`0``',(39+0Z2=L`!0``(
M,#P)@864=L`!'@`]``$%4D4Z(``>`!T.`0```!T```!3=&5A
M;2!!&]C96%N,2YO

Re: Salty's Ruby Modification

[M. Paterson]

Salty, Dave
Can someone repost the photo's or tell me what I am
doing wrong.  I used the link provided, signed in and
receive an error message saying the the directory/file
had expired.  The comments are positive and I would
like to view your work.
mp
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Here is the latest picture of my Ruby
> modification.  I think I will call 
> her Rosey as I am from the Rose City (Portland OR). 
> I still have a few 
> things to do before it will be ready to run, but I
> should have it ready for 
> Diamondhead.  Enjoy!!
> 
> Salty
> 
>
http://www.egroups.com/files/small_scale_steam_models/Saltys+Pictures/Rubyprog
> 
> ress1.jpg 


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/ 

RE: Steam Areoplanes too? (O.T.)

[William F. Kaiser]

On Wed, 3 Jan 2001, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote:

> 
> I do not know of any successful "heavier than air" man carrying aircraft
> powered by steam.
> 

Many years ago I read an article about a guy whose name, I believe, was
Gustav Whitehead, who built a steam powered airplane around 1901.  He and
an assistant were flying around in it when they crashed into a church
steeple, and he gave up on flying. 

A few years ago I was half listening to a newscast from a CT station,
saying a group was trying to get the world to recognize that this guy
accomplished the first manned powered flight, and that it was done in CT.

I haven't ever run across any other information concerning this guy or his
flight, but supposedly he wrote a letter to an inventor type magazine at
the time saying he had successfully flown.

--
Bill Kaiser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.
 

Re: Repeatable curves

[M. Paterson]

Gary, yes I am recommending that you support the rail
through the process. What I have found is that you
need to support the rail at least 3 feet on each side
of the  rollers, both input and output.  I have
mounted my rail bender in the middle but the the edge
of a piece of plywood that is 2ft by 6ft.  This
supports the rail while allowing me to operate/adjust
the bender. Since space is an issue, the plywood has
been secured to a 18" long 2X4 and this is set into a
"WorkMate" portable table.  I then can work in the
garage or on nice days at the railroad.  As to memory.
 I believe you have your answer to the problem.  All
stainless and copper i have seen that is not in sheets
is in rolls and has a memory.
mp

--- Gary Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have had some trouble getting identicle curves. On
> the same rail I can
> bend and unbend reliably, but on different 8 foot
> lengths of rail
> consistency is not my experience. Are you suggesting
> attaching the rail
> bender to a flat work surface to keep the rail level
> for the entire
> bending process? I have found that Aristo Craft's
> stainless steel rail
> bends more when run through from one end than if the
> other end is the
> starting point. I have no idea prior to bending
> which end will result in
> a more shallow or tighter curve. Pretty frustrating.
> I expect the rail
> was once on a huge roll for shipment from the
> foundry and mill. Thus the
> rail retains a memory from prolonged rolled storage.
> Just a theory. Any
> suggestions for knowing ahead of bending which way
> the rail might be
> biased to bend?
> Gary Lane
> Eugene, OR
> 
> I have used two different rail benders and prefer
> the
> Llagas Creek unit.  I strongly recommend that you
> attach the bender to a work surface to assure
> repeatable curves.\
>  


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/ 

I made decals this way

[Gary Lane]

I have made my own decals by taking what I wanted copied onto decal paper at the
local copy shop. They used a high quality color copier. I supplied decal paper.
Some decals need blue and some white background. Search on the internet using
"water slide" "water slide paper" to find the correct type of paper to make your
own decals.
http://www.beldecal.com/decals.cfm   I ordered paper from this company

Bel Inc's web site has lots of information. And they also sell paper for ink jet
printers (which I chose not to use despite having a high quality ink jet
HP2000C).

Another site for water slide paper.http://www.tangopapadecals.com/page2.html

PS ~ Terry Shellenberger is a great guy. Glenda Bockel in Portland, Oregon area
is a professional architectual model builder, retired, who has trained many in
Portland area to make nifty models (including Terry and myslef).
Hope this helps. Some decals I copied onto the wrong paper background so I
painted the building I applied it to with a white wash in a small rectangle
barely larger than the decal (much like I noticed some posters were applied many
decades ago).

Gary Lane
Eugene, Oregon

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> In a message dated 01-01-03 15:07:48 EST, you write:
>
> << Well fellows, here maybe an answer to those questions on, "Where can I
>  get custom decals for my engine or car?" >>
>   There is a gentleman in Portland, named Terry Shellenberger, who runs
> the Battery Back Shop.   The same guy that wrote the last two articles on
> battery power and remote control  in Garden Railways.   He has done some
> extensive expermentation on creating costum decals using an Alps (sp?)
> printer and from what he has shown at the local club meetings has been quite
> successful.   Now weather he is going to produce them commerically I do not
> know as we have not crossed paths recently.  One might look up his E-mail
> address in Garden Railways and inquire.  At least you could probably inquire
> to his process.  He was willing to share it with the club so I do not see why
> not others.
> Salty
 

Re: Roundhouse SRRL#24

[SALTYCRABB]

In a message dated 01/03/01 6:42:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< A question for anyone who owns a RH SRRL #24.  I have noticed a fair amount
 of surface rust on the drivers.  Any one else experiencing this? >>

None to speak of on mine Chuck.  I run in a very humid, salty environment 
year round.

Jim Crabb
Seabrook (Houston), Texas 

Re: Roundhouse SRRL#24

[WaltSwartz]

Rather than use steel wool, try a piece of "almost used-up" Scotch Brite. No 
problem with the little left over pieces of steel wool. If you do use the 
wool, use 000 or  grade.
Keep your steam up!, It's COLD here
Walt & Mr. Lunkenheimer 

Re: Steam Areoplanes too? (O.T.)

[Terry Griner]

I have both books, got the Yates book for the Holiday!
   I am drawing up a modified engine for a lighter than air craft. Once that is built 
then I'll work on a frame with a balloon to hold it up. And once that flies the next 
step will be to build the heavier than air frame.
All in my "Copious" spare time ;-}
Terry Griner
Columbus Ohio USA
Modelbuilder/tinkerer

>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 01/04/01 06:52AM >>>
There is also another book reprinted by Lindsay called Model Making edited by 
Raymond Yates.  Although this book is a little sketchy in it's handling of 
the projects, things are buildable.  Most of the book is devoted to boats 
but, there are two chapters dealing with model steam airplanes using flash 
boilers.
Bob
 

Re: Steam Areoplanes too? (O.T.)

[Cgnr]

There is also another book reprinted by Lindsay called Model Making edited by 
Raymond Yates.  Although this book is a little sketchy in it's handling of 
the projects, things are buildable.  Most of the book is devoted to boats 
but, there are two chapters dealing with model steam airplanes using flash 
boilers.
Bob
 

RE: Kerosene fueling

[Susan Parker]

Hi,

Thanks for the further input.

I think that the next step will be to get a small camping stove and put a 
liter of water in a small pressure vessel and time how long it takes to 
boil with different fuels, and measure the amount of fuel used.

Should I be feeling extra enthusiastic I could also get a similar sizes gas 
stove, and try the same thing out with gas. It would of course be a 
propane/butane mix (of probably unspecified proportions) however...

Candle power could also be tested, however burning wood or coal (or goose 
fat for that matter) is probably not a great idea in the apartment as, if 
nothing else, I am sure the smoke alarm will be triggered (it works well 
enough for burnt toast!).

There are two stages of boiling water though. First there is the raising 
the temperature to c.100 degrees Centigrade, then there is the actual 
conversion of the water liquid to a gas vapor. The latter apparently 
requires a lot more energy. It is this latent energy (as heat) that is 
stored in gaseous H2O that differentiates it from compressed air at a 
similar pressure. This is probably why flash steam, whilst great in 
principle, is a lot harder to implement satisfactorily in real life.

This type of physics isn't my thing, so I am a bit hazy about the maths. 
However I have been told that 100 grams of water requires about 230 
kilo-joules at 100% heat transfer efficiency to turn it into steam. Actual 
boiler efficiencies would be rather less. My guess is perhaps 20% maximum, 
or am I being outrageously optimistic?

Any ideas, facts or figures on this one?

Best wishes,
Susan.


P.S.
Sorry for the use of SI units in an American-centric list, but I don't know 
the imperial ones. I am having a hard enough time getting used to decimal 
and fractional inches for drawing instead of the millimeters which I am 
used to. And I am old enough to remember using British pre decimal LSD 
(Pounds, Shillings and Pence) money!
S.