Re: Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread Trent Dowler

Vance,

  I agree that they sound rather large in size for one of our little steamers. I 
should have
caught that.
  I like idea of using a sliding bar for drain cocks. Sounds like a simple solution 
that is
easy to accomplish.

Later,
Trent

VR Bass wrote:

> They sound awfully large to me, relative to the Ruby's cylinders.
> Also, the threads they use are not ones you'll find among the tools at the
> hardware store.  You'll need to order them from Sulphur Springs, too, and
> they're not cheap.
 



Re: Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread VR Bass

I would get out a ruler before ordering the draincocks from Sulphur Springs.  
They sound awfully large to me, relative to the Ruby's cylinders.  Those 
diameters suggest that they might be designed for larger scale steamers.  
Also, the threads they use are not ones you'll find among the tools at the 
hardware store.  You'll need to order them from Sulphur Springs, too, and 
they're not cheap.

There are surely ways to attach a sliding bar to close the holes without having 
to mill a slot in the bottom of the cylinder.  That's Kevin O'Connor's solution 
because he has the tools to do it that way.  What about cutting a couple of 
short slots in the slider and attaching it with screws?  That's within the 
capabilities of a drill press.  It might not be as tight a fit as Kevin's, but it'll 
still 
save more steam during operation than just leaving the holes open.  

On the other hand, there was an article in SitG (I think it was Tag Gorton's?) in 
which the author plumbed an open pipe under the smokebox to create a 
deliberate leak -- to simulate open draincocks.  My memory of the article was 
that they had a R/C controlled valve, however, so it wasn't a permanent leak.  
Anyway, it might in fact be better to have a draincock leaking than none at 
all  Just thinking aloud here.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 



Re: Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread M. Paterson

Thank you Trent.  I am a "creative" modeler, woods and
plastics. I have no metal working tools except a
Dremel drill, a small drill press with a 1/4 hp motor
and hand tools.  It sounds as if Sulfur Springs once
again comes to the rescue.  Thanks again.
mike

--- Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello,
> 
>   If you wanted to go the "ready made" route,
> Sulphur Springs sells
> small cylinder drain cocks.
>   In their catalog #5, page 17, they have the
> cylinder drain cocks
> listed. They have 3 sizes listed. 5/32"-40 threads
> ($46.00/2pr.),
> 3/16"-40 ($46.00/2pr.), 1/4"-40 ($55.00/2pr.). The
> prices listed may or
> may not be correct since my price sheet is about a
> year old.
>   I understand that the Paule's (Sulphur Springs
> owners) have had some
> sort of emergency and so you may have a slight bit
> of trouble getting in
> touch with them for a while. Hope the emergency is
> over soon for them.
>   Hope this helps.
> 
> Later,
> Trent
>  


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Re: Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread Trent Dowler

Hello,

  If you wanted to go the "ready made" route, Sulphur Springs sells
small cylinder drain cocks.
  In their catalog #5, page 17, they have the cylinder drain cocks
listed. They have 3 sizes listed. 5/32"-40 threads ($46.00/2pr.),
3/16"-40 ($46.00/2pr.), 1/4"-40 ($55.00/2pr.). The prices listed may or
may not be correct since my price sheet is about a year old.
  I understand that the Paule's (Sulphur Springs owners) have had some
sort of emergency and so you may have a slight bit of trouble getting in
touch with them for a while. Hope the emergency is over soon for them.
  Hope this helps.

Later,
Trent
 



RE: Accucraft Excelsior

2001-07-02 Thread Ciambrone, Steve @ OS

Bought an Excelsior today.
It has some differences over the Ruby.  The Excelsior has a water drain on
the displacement lubricator, water fill is in the cab, water overflow valve
for boiler water level, knob on the throttle, small lever on the burner
control and a R/C switch
 cutout in the rear tank.

The cab roof slides off instead of the Ruby with the whole cab removable.

Sincerely
Steve Ciambrone
Sr. Test Engineer
L-3 Ocean Systems

 

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Re: Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread Peter Trounce

Friend of mine with a single-cylinder Gauge 1 engine connected the two
cylinder ends with a piece of hypodermic  tubing.
At start (low speed) the water-lock was relieved into the other end of the
cylinder and at speed it worked fine.
I think also that due to condensation when running, the tubing had water in
it which in the short time of a stroke couldn't  get out of the way quick
enough to leak useful steam between the ends.
Loco ran well. It was an Aster Mogul,
Peter.


--
> From: M. Paterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Ruby, Hot Water
> Date: Monday, July 02, 2001 12:28 PM
> 
> Does it make sense and is it possible to get rid of
> the the initial water buildup at startup by drilling a
> small hole, ie .0010 or smaller in the end of each of
> the steam chambers?  The hole would be constantly open
> and thus reduce steam pressure in the chest. Would
> this cause a performance problem?  Once running at
> temp there would be a constant bleed of steam out of
> the hole.
 



Re: Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread VR Bass

> Does it make sense and is it possible to get rid of
> the the initial water buildup at startup by drilling a
> small hole, ie .0010 or smaller in the end of each of
> the steam chambers?

Yep, they're called cylinder drain cocks.  I think it was Kevin O'Connor who 
added drain cocks to his Ruby, and there was a good article about a 
Roundhouse with a similar arrangement in SitG some time back.  The easiest 
way to accomplish it on a small-scale steamer, from what I've seen, is a 
sliding bar on the bottom of the cylinder castings, that will cover/uncover the 
little holes drilled into the bottom.  This requires milling a flat spot or a groove 
into the bottom of the casting, and from there it's just a little drilling and tapping.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 



Dragon live steamer

2001-07-02 Thread Gary Lane

Of course anyone who wishes to make this loco may change the pisser to a
fish blowing steam or a dragon or a gardener with hose or elephant or etc.
~Gary of Eugene, OR  -  still hoping someone has working plans for this
creative
project.

>   The picture was relevant to the topic at hand, which was/is a steam
> turbine locomotive. Although very simple in design, the "Pisser" is a
> steam turbine. It also shows just how simple a locomotive can be. Being a
> simply designed turbine was the only reason for my sharing the picture.
>   Nuf said.
>
> Trent


 



Ruby, Hot Water

2001-07-02 Thread M. Paterson

Does it make sense and is it possible to get rid of
the the initial water buildup at startup by drilling a
small hole, ie .0010 or smaller in the end of each of
the steam chambers?  The hole would be constantly open
and thus reduce steam pressure in the chest. Would
this cause a performance problem?  Once running at
temp there would be a constant bleed of steam out of
the hole.

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