another question
Hi folks. Thanks again for all the helpful input. Don't know what I (or others who may be struggling in the dark) would do without the input from those with experience in the esteric world of gauge one live steamers. The internet was born to assist us in our pursuits. : ) But all the helpful input has brought me to another question. I have built the boiler end plugs for my boiler out of .050" copper sheet, bending over a form, annealing, etc. And now it's time to bore holes for the flues. The OD of the smaller plug is only 1.4". How do you hole this bugger to accurately drill/bore/unibore the flue holes? I was planning on using my mill (with DRO) to locate the holes. Any suggestions ? royce in SB
Dee Parts
Fellow Steamers, My intentions on building a DEE have met with a snag. Actually, to many irons in the fire and no time in the fore seeable future to build her. In any case, I have a new full set of wheel castings and axle guards (two guards came slightly damaged, but Harry says they can be easily fixed) as offered by Harry Wade and a set of frames as offered by Jim Curry. I will depart with them for $125.00 plus shipping. If interested, drop me an email off list. My Best, Chuck Charles W. Walters Twin Lakes Railway CEO http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw
Re: [AccuCraftRuby] Re: New Ruby - Update
Or just remove the little screw that catches the dimples and leave the sprung-pin there to act as your stops. Works great here. Trot, the simple, fox... At 12:12 PM 5/16/02, Vance wrote: >You have to be careful about hooking the servo directly to the reversing >lever. > The detents are there, in part, to restrict the range of motion, as > there is >otherwise nothing in the reversing valve to regulate the piston's movement. > >I think you'd be better off modifying the stand the Johnson bar rides on. >Either file away the bottom of the track so the pin on the lever can >travel the >full arc and stop at the ends, or remove the pin and put a couple of screws >through the body of the stand that will stop the travel of the lever at the >proper places. > >(Copied to the other lists where this topic has been raised recently.) > >regards, > -vance- /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: [AccuCraftRuby] Re: New Ruby - Update
> The several RC setups I've seen discussed for the Ruby/Ida had > mentioned the extra steps necessary to hook a servo up to the Johnson > bar because of the "detents" that lock into forward and reverse. > It had never occurred to me to just remove the bar and hook the servo > directly to the throw. You have to be careful about hooking the servo directly to the reversing lever. The detents are there, in part, to restrict the range of motion, as there is otherwise nothing in the reversing valve to regulate the piston's movement. I think you'd be better off modifying the stand the Johnson bar rides on. Either file away the bottom of the track so the pin on the lever can travel the full arc and stop at the ends, or remove the pin and put a couple of screws through the body of the stand that will stop the travel of the lever at the proper places. (Copied to the other lists where this topic has been raised recently.) regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
