Re: Track Help for Ferdinand

2002-10-12 Thread Gary Broeder
> >
> > Silver 106%
> > Copper 100%
> > Gold 65%
> > Aluminum (alloys) 50%
> > Brass 28%
> > Steel   3-15%
> > Nickle-silver   5%

While these figures are interesting they do not all apply to the actual
materials used in typical toy or model railway rail.

Most nickel silver rail offered is an alloy containing 16-18 % nickel
silver. The remainder being copper at 63- 66% and zinc at 18-19% with trace
amounts of lead and and iron .

Gary Broeder

Llagas Creek Rwys

 



Track Help for Ferdinand

2002-10-12 Thread Gary
Despite these impressive figures, my stainless steel rail (AristoCraft) has
run electric trains far more reliably than the brass rail I have always
previously used. Cleaned with LGB rail cleaning engine twice in three years.
Brass rail required a track cleaning run every time I wished to operate.

Gary - chilling in Eugene, Oregon
http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor

- Original Message -
From: steve boylan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 5:39 AM
Subject: Re: Track Help for Ferdinand


> Trot the Fox contributed:
>
> > It's either Copper or Gold, I'm not sure which is absolute best.  I
believe
> > it's Copper.  Copper is used in most wiring for good reason
> > though.  :)  Chip-makers are now converting over to Copper conductors
> > inside the chips to improve speed and lower temps/power consumption over
> > the Aluminum they had been using previously.  :)
> >
> > Trot, the semiconductor-working, fox...
>
> The top conductivity is silver.  Unfortunately, silver rail tends to
> oxidize quickly, and is hard to keep clean.  It's also much more expensive
> than the more commonly-used materials.  :-)
>
> For reference, here's a copy of a list of standard conductivities,
> referenced to annealed copper:
>
> Silver 106%
> Copper 100%
> Gold 65%
> Aluminum (alloys) 50%
> Brass 28%
> Steel   3-15%
> Nickle-silver   5%
>
> In choosing a metal for trackwork, simple conductivity is not the only
> consideration.  You also need to balance corrosion, surface oxidation,
> mechanical strength, and cost.  All the usual engineering tradeoffs.
>
> (One might ask "So why is so much gold used in semiconductor
> manufacturing?"  Two good reasons:  it doesn't corrode or oxidize, so it
> makes a great conductive or protective plating.  The other reason is that
> it's highly ductile:  gold can easily be drawn into very fine wire which
> is used to connect the lead frames to the chips.  Or at least it was last
> time I took a few chips apart, which is now, um, some time ago!)
>
> - - Steve, feeling pedantic
> this morning.
>
 



finding alcohol leaks

2002-10-12 Thread Daniel R. Fuller
When ever you have an alcohol leak and it is not obvious where it
is, get some baby power or similar and dust the tank or offending
part.  Put the alcohol in the tank and look for the damp power.  It
works like a champ.  I have had small leaks that would not show up
with any other home test.  Clean up and re-solder.
Dan Fuller
 



Re: finding alcohol leaks

2002-10-12 Thread cgprod
Thanks Dan .

  That sounds an excelent way ( never heard that remedy before ) I tried
air and water and pressurizing without any sign ;;as I told Geoff the
problem was shortage of thread on the needle casing so I added a washer over
an "O" ring and it solved the problem  thanks again Dan.

Graham S
- Original Message -
From: Daniel R. Fuller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 12:12 PM
Subject: finding alcohol leaks


> When ever you have an alcohol leak and it is not obvious where it
> is, get some baby power or similar and dust the tank or offending
> part.  Put the alcohol in the tank and look for the damp power.  It
> works like a champ.  I have had small leaks that would not show up
> with any other home test.  Clean up and re-solder.
> Dan Fuller
>
 



Re: finding alcohol leaks

2002-10-12 Thread Mike Chaney
An even surer way than those proposed is to do a superb paint job first.  Any
alcohol leaks will be clearly indicated by the peeling paint.

Mike (been there, done that.)

 



Re: boiler insulation

2002-10-12 Thread cgprod
Hi Geoff.

  Sorryabout that when you get to my age you do forget things ;; I did
find the problem ;;as you mentioned must have been the viscosity ( always
wanted to know what that meant )  the problem was there was a shortage of
thread on the needle shaft  wich tensioned enough to seal for water but not
for gin ( SORRY  ;; metholhydrate )  so I added another washer and ''O" ring
and that did the trick ran the engine this morning and all was fine until
the clack valve washer gave way under 70 psi ;; now that is fixed also.
 Funny thing though I ran my new engine yesterday and had trouble with
the clack ;;was not opening and the boiler ran dry ( that is also now
fixed ) .
 Thanks for your comments Geoff very much appreciated.


  Regards   Graham >S
- Original Message -
From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: boiler insulation


> Graham,
>
> I didn't see any response on you alky leak, or I may have missed one.
> Alcohol has a lower viscosity, does it not, and it is lighter than water
> with less surface tension too so it will leak out of a pin hole where
water
> may not.
>
> Close the feed valves and put air in the tank and submerge it in water or
> gin--whichever is handiest. The bubbles will tell you where the leak is.
> Then drink the gin while you fix the leak. I had a leaking tank on a
> Finescale 48XX and that is the only way I could find it.  After that show,
> I  performed the test whether the tank was leaking or not--Hic!
>
> Geoff.
>
> >   No I have had a puzzling problem pop up ;; made a new chicken
feeder
> >tank ;; did all air leak checking tried it with water and walla worked
great
> >;; put it in the tender and filled with Metholhydrate and the by
thing
> >leaked  tried it again in water and it worked .
> >  Put my thinking cap on again but they must loose their powewr with
age
> >;; have you ever come across this condition before and if yes what was
the
> >trouble ?
> >
> >
> > Graham S ( without a cap )
> >- Original Message -
> >From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 10:03 PM
> >Subject: Re: boiler insulation
> >
> >
> >> Dear Zbigniew,
> >>
> >> Thanks for all your comments and suggestions.
> >>
> >> To correct myself on the A3, there wasn't much play in the valve gear,
it
> >> was in the reverser and the linkage to the valve gear, more for my
> >> satisfaction than the expectation of better running, as it it runs very
> >> well now.
> >>
> >> I did assemble a C&S Mogul--the play in all parts of the valve gear was
> >> "overplayed".--It was sloppy! There was one fellow, whose name I can't
> >> recall, who solved the problem by manufacturing all new valve gear!
> >> Probably the only way to sure success! I appreciate your input and
> >> experience on assembly and testing.
> >>
> >> Steam on,
> >>
> >> Geoff.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>  Dear Geoff,
> >> >Thank you for your kind words. As I elaborated on in another email
> >> >just sent, I am still hesitant about the gap. Measurements convince
> >> >me, although the extra amount of work and the need to shop for the
> >> >components may be a strong counter-argument. I haven't decided yet.
> >> >I have to remark that my efforts to keep every Joule of energy in
> >> >place should make me a perfect Dutchman;^)! But as to my origins,
> >> >they are more steam-and-narrow-gauge-land than under-water-land!
> >> >I am most intrigued by your work on removing the play in the valve
> >> >gear. I believe this is a long researched phenomenon in the C&S Mogul,
> >> >but I have recently been playing around with the valve gear wondering
> >> >if the play of about 1 mm should not be reduced... (the steam inlets
> >> >in the cylinders are about 1.5 mm!!) In effect symmetrical steam
> >> >transfer is only possible in one direction (say forward) while
> >> >the other direction will be strongly asymmetrical (only one side of
the
> >> >cylinder will receive steam). Surprisingly, air test only shows
> >> >later activation of the movement in the asymmetrical direction, not
> >> >a much more violent and irregular (un-smooth) running. In fact, for
> >> >small openings of the reverser the running is very nervous and violent
> >> >in both directions (symmetrical and asymmetrical steam inlet opening)
> >> >to the same degree. This would mean that there is little practical
> >> >need for removing the play, it would only shorten the dead region
> >> >in the reverser range but not improve the running for small opening.
> >> >Happy steaming!
> >> >Zbigniew
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>