Re: Practical reading for the novice
http://www.caboosehobbies.com lists a number of interesting books, including 148023 TEE LIVE STEAM BOOK BOOK $22.25 I'm a satisfied customer, no other involvement. Charles From: Daniel A. Dernbach [EMAIL PROTECTED] Also, do you have any suggestion where to look for the LBSC book that you
Re: re:Practical reading for the novice
It is Building the Heisler rather than Building the Climax . . . which I wish was also available. The latest Kozo book is about building an 0-4-0 tender loco (Pennsy?). And, as stated, Building the Shay and So You Want to Build . . . are also available. Incidently, http://www.caboosehobbies.com lists many Village Press books in its metalworking section at a discount, as well as books from Tee, Lindsey, and others -- some discounted, some not. Other than being a long-time satisfied customer, I have no relationship with them. Charles From: Dave Cole [EMAIL PROTECTED] i have found the works of kozo hiraoka illuminating. while i have never built one of his engines (and they are larger than our scales), i believe he has a methodic way of explaining the use of tools and machining that is well worth the cost of the book and the time invested in reading it. unfortunately, village press, kozo's publishers, don't have anything on their web site about his books; i believe the currently available versions are building the shay and building the climax. you can e-mail village press at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Steamlines Shay
Axles parallel in all directions? . . . straight? . . . wheels square on axles? Sounds like maybe the journals on the geared sideframe(s) are spaced a bit different from those on the plain one(s) -- especially as you had to straighten some. Charles From: Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] Anyone familiar with a Steamlines Shay? It is wanting to leave the rails a lot. Wheel guage is perfect. ISide frames were bent, so I straightened them, which reduced resistance significantly. I am not sure what is causing the trucks to crab then crawl over the rail head. The wheel profile has more curve than most wheels. I think the trucks are a bit stiff, which may cause the trucks to not flex enough for track that is not absolutely level and flat. Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful.
Change of Email Address
Due to the bankruptcy of @Home, my email address is being changed to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I know the @home will not work after February 28 . . . I'm not sure how long after I change they will forward to the new address. I expect to make the change on my end tonight. If you cannot imagine why you are in my address book, let me know . . . and you won't be. Thanks, Charles Brumbelow P.S. Wonder how long it will take for the spam to find me again?
Re: Other boiler related topic
I understand from a fireman that this was used only with oil burners and not coal burners . . . possibly because the cinders already being flung thru the flue from burning coal did all that sand could do. Charles On the prototype a trick used to clean the flues is to throw a shovel full of sand into the firebox while the engine is working. It helps clean the flues and screens.
Re: Other boiler related topic
I've been known to use a cloth patch soaked with appropriate liquid, bent in a U or V shape, tied with fishing line at the bend, and pulled through the barrel for cleaning. Weighting the loose end of the line and experimenting to optimize the patch size help. Obviously one doesn't wish to get the patch halfway through the barrel . . . or flue. Charles From: Phil. Paskos [EMAIL PROTECTED] Not a bad idea except for the Hoppies#5. Coal residue would be closer to black powder shooters residue. Those guys use soap and water on their nylon bristle brushes and final swab down with cotton brushes. You can use brass brushes in steel boiler tubes, but I wouldn't use them in Copper.
Re: Locomotive Cyclopedia
Mike - Post WWII is when the diesel began to take over on the railroads . . . I've got a 1938 edition which is probably 80% or better steam, and most of that is about as developed as USA steam got. It includes the NW A class and the Challenger and bunches of 4-8-4's, as well as the Union Pacific three cylinder 4-10-2 and 4-12-2 types. My next one is the 1966 Car and Locomotive edition . . . about 80% cars and nothing steam it appears. Seems I've heard that the first or second post-war edition includes steam and gas/coal turbines as well as conventional steam and diesel, but I've not seen a copy. http://www.abebooks.com dealers usually list a number of these in different editions, BTW. Charles From: Mike Eorgoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a 7th edition 1925 version. I am interested in acquiring a later edition. How much later does it change from primarily a steam book to a diesel book? Would I be ok with an early '40s version, or should I back up into the '30s. These aren't cheap, so I can't afford a sampling of many of these.
Re: Cylinder vs. Axle Alignment
In the USA some small designs -- Porter comes to mind as one maker -- had the cylinder conspicuously slanted with the piston rod still pointed somewhat toward the center of the driven axle. Clearance above track level with tiny drivers was one motivation; escaping the dust might have been another. Charles From: Alison Jim Gregg [EMAIL PROTECTED] It also gets the cylinders a couple of inches higher out of the dirt - an advantage particularly in a small loco.
Re: charcoal
Mash it up before you open the bag the first time . . . Ten pound bags -- and even sometimes five pound bags -- are often available hereabouts. Charles From: Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Up until I shoved everything into storage I was using mesquite charcoal, intended for BBQ use, as charcoal for coal firing. I threw it all out when we everything went into storage. I now need more charcoal, but smashing up that mesquite was a huge mess, and was only available in huge bags, though cheap. Searching for a better way...
Re: What's the deal with JB Weld?
OK. Sounds good. Now, where do we get it? Somehow I don't expect to find JB Weld on the pegboard at my local Lowe's or Home Depot. Charles From: Ciambrone, Steve @ OS [EMAIL PROTECTED] High quality adhesive epoxy. I was surprised when, I read the specifications and stated a 600*F high temperature. I was a bit skeptical about the stuff until I used it and noticed it looks the same as the expensive stuff we use at work.
Re: 1/32 or 1/29 freight car
Which car(s)? Any drawing or plan of a car can be scaled from whatever it is to whatever you want it to be. The easiest way to do this is with a photocopier that can shrink or enlarge by whole percentages. For example: HO (USA) is 3.5mm = 1 foot or 1:87 1:29 is about 10.5mm = 1 foot 1:32 is about 9.53mm = 1 foot O (USA) .25 inches = 1 foot So, an HO drawing needs to be increased to 300 percent of its original size to be used in 1:29 scale (10.5mm divided by 3.5mm). The copier where I work cannot go beyond 200 percent of original size in one step. So, I would make a copy 200 percent the size of the original drawing, and then make a copy of that copy 150 percent of its size (1 x 2 x 1.5 = 3). Others would work the same way -- just the percents would vary. Note also that photocopies do not necessarily maintain all dimensions to exactly the same proportions. So, measure and verify before cutting materials. Hope this helps. Charles From: "橘川 純" [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am looking for the kit or the drawing of 1/32 or 1/29 freight car. Please let me know how to get it. Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] hp:http://www6.plala.or.jp/locomotive/
Re: clearances
I've heard that many bedrooms are workshops . . . From: Geoff Spenceley [EMAIL PROTECTED] How about the bedroom? Very shy Geoff. Before you get off course--A bedroom!
Re: Where to get SS mesh
Here is one source . . . closes in 10 +/- hours. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1668305856 Note that this is dutch bid -- $6.00 per unit plus shipping. The description: * This 304 stainless steel screen was bought for our shop to mold egg carton dies (some sections in the left of the picture). It has been annealed [softened] to make forming easy. We have also used it to hold hops and grains in microbrewing and homebrewing operations. The material is .009 thick, is a 300 series stainless, easily formed, cut, or spot welded. a bid of 1 is for 1 running foot (1 foot long, -2 feet wide). Think of it as a piece of cloth- with 60 threads running one way (called the warp)and 40 threads running the other (called the weft). The thread in this case is s.s. wire, of a diameter of .009. The thickness thus is .018. The open space is approximately .011 between wires- thus, greater then 50% open space. * I've done some business with this vendor; otherwise no connection. Charles From: Chris Wolcott [EMAIL PROTECTED] Where can one find any stainless mesh?
Re: This here tracksite ain't big enough for the both of us was Marshal Badges
Imagine LA if all the commuters rode horses or buggies instead of autos! Charles Don't worry about the horse. If you've ever notice horses in parades, etc. they make a DEPENDS for animals. . . Besides, with a little sawdust on the ground the folks who run 1880 period (or earlier) equipment would be glad of the 'Prototypical' environment!
Re: G1MRA Project / Dee Wheels
Are the wheels from both vendors as cast Harry? Charles From: Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] For anyone interested, I have posted photos of samples of wheel castings from Mark Wood (UK) and Walsall Models (UK) in the SS Livesteamers photo drop box. URL per below. The photos show Walsall castings in photos Wals-1 thru 5, and Mark Wood castings in photos Wood-1 thru 4. The castings pictured are NOT the actual Dee or Project castings but are examples of wheels of a similar size and type as those for the Dee and should show the relative quality and finish of the two makers. There are several significant differences between the two so feel free to Email me if you have any questions. http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/
Re: Barely coherent ramblings on Budget live steam
Just be patient, Harry. All things come to those who stand and wait . . . :-) Charles From: Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] The only thing I haven't yet heard said is you ought to be paying me for lettin' you have so much fun, . . . . . but then I'm still relatively young.
Re: PVC Track Supports
Thanks for the information, Don. Looks like something I could do in the back yard while preserving my own back. Charles I used 3 PVC pipe for my supports. The concrete blocks were leveled and then I used a water level to determine the length of each pipe section. Everything is a slip fit with no cement used at all. I was worrried about our Northern Ohio winters and ground heave. The PVC and track have gone through three winters now without any problems. I recheck the level each Spring and use shims as needed. I put a butress on each side of the oval made out of aluminum angle. The system is very sturdy and I really don't think I need the butress. However, I have lots of neighborhood small fry and big fry who like to visit and I feel the more support the better. http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/pvcsupport1.jpg and http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/pvcsupport2.jpg
Re: PVC Track Supports
Don - Looks like all the digging you have to do is just enough to be sure the block is level. Are the block and pipe bonded in any way? Thanks, Charles Hi Dave, I finally got my digital camera back. Here are a couple of pics of the PVC track supports I use on Walt's frames. http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/pvcsupport1.jpg and http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/pvcsupport2.jpg
Re: O.T. - The Train movie on TCM
I remember a made-for-TV movie called, if memory serves, Where the Hell is the Gold? Filmed on the Cumbres Toltec Scenic Railroad (part of old DRGW narrow gauge). Seems like it starred Willie Nelson and some other country music singers, but I'm not sure. The plot was forgetable, but the train scenes were great. Charles - Original Message - From: Trent Dowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 5:53 PM Subject: Re: O.T. - The Train movie on TCM Hello Everyone, Ok, what other great train movies have I missed? My current favorite is, The General, but I've not seen, The Train yet. Thanks for the feedback/reports. Later, Trent
Re: [SSSM] A Combined Cycle Locomotive? Sorry off topic alittle ! ?
Volume 2 of Steam and Stirling has another turbine . . . one based on Tesla's design, FWIW. Charles From: Trent Dowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Steam and Stirling. I've been going to get that book but just never broke down and ordered it. Now I have a reason. grin The turbine that I made was not reversible but now I can see how it could be built in that configuration quite easily if the blades were made straight instead of angled or curved. Mine is quite a bit smaller that the one that you built but could be scaled up and have more blades. The turbine blades were machined on a CNC and didn't have a balance problem. If there had been a balance problem I planned to make shallow peck drills on the heavy side of the disk to balance it. From memory, mine has a series of 24 holes, of 3/32 diameter, drilled on a 1 (+/-) bolt circle, on a 1.1/4 (+/-) disk, that is about 1/8 (+/-) thick. The holes have a slot machined from the holes to the edge of the disk at an angle. The exact angle escapes me right now but it's around 7 to 10 degrees. My turbine followed the Elmer's Engines design very closely with only a couple of minor changes due to material on hand. Pictures of my turbine would be rather plain looking without disassembling everything and I really don't have much of a way to get pictures on the web right now anyway.
Re: Cement fastening ...
If you are working with a finished wall, be sure that whatever you are using goes past the finish and into the structure. In my at-work office, a bookcase was mounted onto a finished block wall with the expanding lead anchors -- but they were only into the stucco/morter finish coat and not the blocks themselves. It stayed for years, then let go with a bang -- landing on my chair. Fortunately, this happened before I arrived. Charles From: Geoff Spenceley [EMAIL PROTECTED] I had a whole wall of shelves come down on me with the self tapping anchor screws. The hole gets enlarged as the drill point wears, and in old concrete the holes are crumbling on the surfaces. Best anchor is lag bolts and expansion shield inserts. The expansion shields are about 3/4 long. I have a 3/8 combination hammer drill/drill that works OK. If you can though, borrow or rent a Hilty . They put holes in old concrete like going through butter.
Re: Cat?
You'll pay, however. Just wait until your prize loco is charging into the tunnel on a hot sultry day and finds . . . the cat. Charles I have bestowed an important task upon my worthy cat. She did a job that I could never do. Oh, I suppose I could have installed a feather duster on a battery powered loco to do the dirty work.
Re: Bear?
If this keeps up . . . you will be able to get a gun -- a large caliber gun -- past your wife. And she will insist on learning how to use it. Or you will move . . . Charles From: Ferdinand Mels [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think its time to go onto eBay and see the selection of crossbows. (can't get guns past my wife)
Re: S.S.S.H. was Re: Cheddar Loco
Thanks for the info. Charles From: Tom Eaton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Small Scale Steam Hobbyist 791 Country Farm Road Monticello, Illinois 61856 Subscription rate is $24.00 for 4 issues ( published quarterly) Tom
S.S.S.H. was Re: Cheddar Loco
Any more information beyond the title? Thanks, Charles From: Tom Eaton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ernie Noa bought one, look for a review in a future issue of Small Scale Steam Hobbyist.
Wheel Slip was Re: Should I add weight to Billy loco?
The mainline steam excursions of days gone by, or video tapes of same, reveal interesting wheel slip sounds once in a while. In every case, as soon as you hear the slip, you hear the exhaust noise back off as the engineer acts to eliminate the slip. But they are right there on top of it as compared to those operating miniatures. Someone posted a picture (or link) showing where a diesel loco had been stalled with wheels slipping and had worn the rails down almost through the flange and into the base. Charles From: Michael Martin [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the subject of wheel slip; I have seen many locomotives at various steamups with the wheels slipping excessively and the operator doing nothing to prevent it. This leads to the polishing of drivers and a greater propensity for wheel slippage on the next run. Moral of the story? If the drivers are slipping, reduce the throttle setting immediately, wipe down the track, reduce the load, or add some weight over the drivers. Just don't let 'em slip.
Re: Is it brown out? - YAK
It is obvious the politicians in California forgot the gasoline lines of the Jimmy Carter era . . . Restrict the price and the supply will shrink to fit. Add in a good dose of NIMBY and some invironmental extremism, and you create opportunity for politicians to increase their control over daily lives. Charles Gotcha Walt- they can never see beyond the next vote can they - you should see what our lot have done to our railways ;-(
Need Issue # 53 of SitG
If anyone has a surplus/duplicate copy of Issue # 53 of Steam in the Garden that needs a good home, I would like to provide a new residence for it. That issue would complete my set. For some reason, that recent issue is out of print. Please contact me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Charles
Re: G1MRA ProjectLoco
?I would suggest that you use for your G1MRA Project Loco whatever style of coupler you are or will be using for your cars. Metal would seem preferable to plastic because of the presence of fire and heat when operating. Charles - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 3:00 AM Subject: G1MRA ProjectLoco What coupler is suitable for G1MRA ProjectLoco? Jun Kitsukawa ??4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka ?Fujisawa, Kanagawa ?251-0027 JAPAN ?mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ?hp:http://www6.plala.or.jp/locomotive/
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
Use a miniature spark (not glow) plug at the desired water level, so that the resistance between the center electrode and the shell electrode would greatly increase once the water level dropped below that level? Probably would want a generous gap between the electrodes to avoid the lingering water drop situation. Charles - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 10:51 PM Subject: Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass? It very well could be that simple. I'm going to have to experiment now. The hardest part will be getting the wire out through the metal turret without leaks. Should be possible with an enamel-coated wire. I'll get back to you... ;] Trot, the thinkerin', fox... On Tue, 1 May 2001, Trent Dowler wrote: Now, my non electronics mind started to work. If a simple electrode (wire?) were to be placed down through the existing steam fitting, insulated from the actual fittings and boiler, and the other contact was the boiler itself, could the water act as the conductor between the two contacts ot trigger a simple electronics circuit to light an LED when the contact was broken (no water conductance between the two contacts)? Will the distilled water conduct enough current to actually be of use? Would it be simpler to light an LED and then it go out when the water level drops to the low level? Sounds too simple. Anyone with ideas out there? Later, Trent /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: TRACKS AHEAD (was: O.T. Garden Railway on TV)
It has been around the circuit several times, I believe. Series are distributed with a finite amount of rights (years and/or broadcasts) and this one may be used up everywhere . . . "Model Railroader" (Kalmbach Publishing) had some involvement in its production as I recall, and they might be able to help via their web site. Charles - Original Message - From: "Casey Sterbenz" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 6:31 AM Subject: TRACKS AHEAD (was: O.T. Garden Railway on TV) In the Washington, DC area, Tracks Ahead used to be carried by the Howard University PBS station. I haven't been able to find it for several years. Does anybody in the DC-Baltimore area know where/if it is still being broadcast locally? Casey Sterbenz From: Trent Dowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: O.T. Garden Railway on TV Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 09:09:04 -0500 Hello Kevin, Tracks Ahead? I'm not familiar with that one. Which station airs it? More info, plaaase. _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Re: RCS/PCM
An untried method of insulating one-piece drivers . . . This is a variation of a method I read about years ago which one could use to replace burned out insulation without dismantling the locomotive, FWIW. Using an appropriate size drill bit, drill two holes on opposite sided of the wheel at the [hypothetical] junction of the tire (tyre) and wheel center. Then use a jewelers saw whose blade will fit the holes you just drilled to make two saw cuts along the junction line. Each cut will cover about one-fourth of the circumference of the junction line. Be sure the cuts are clean and free from metal filings and fill with a strong epoxy [not metal filled]. Once the epoxy is thoroughly set, repeat the drilling/sawing process, ending the cuts slightly into the epoxy, so that no metal is left. Then fill these cuts with epoxy. Quite a tedious process, especially when one is thinking of eight or twelve wheels. An ample stock of drill bits and jewelers saw blades should be obtained before beginning . . . One alternative, of course, is to disassemble the trucks, turn the wheels for one side of the loco to remove the tires, turn replacement tires, and reassemble everything with insulation pressed between the wheel centers and the new tires. Or (and this may be the best choice all things considered), since no side/drive rods and quartering are involved in the Climax, disassemble the wheel sets, bore out one wheel of each set, and reassemble with an insulating material bushing at the axle/wheel interface. Charles - Original Message - From: "Thomas Pekarna" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 7:27 AM Subject: RCS/PCM Good morning, in the last week or so someone made a comment about the successful use of the RCS/PCM control system, but I cannot seem to find the posting. I was considering the installation of this system in my aster climax but one of the requirements stated in the website is insulation of the wheels, I don't think this is possible in the climax, anyone have any suggestions?. Currently running with FM, but there is a lot of glitching due to the zillions of metal parts all spinning and jerking everywhich way on the loco, I'm thinking of training a hamster to ride in the cab and take verbal commands. Tom
Re: Pictures
Nice pictures, nice site. Charles From: "David M. Cole" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks for jumping into the breech, Mike; nonetheless, I have finally done my duty: http://www.p-c-l-s.com/steamups/broeder010331/ For you PCLS members, I have made some extensive changes to the site ... added reports from a bunch of steamups from the 1990s and did some other housekeeping ... drop by: http://www.p-c-l-s.com/ \dmc ps: i've modified the color logo once again ... now it matches the colors a certain railroad in the southern pacific part of the country used most often ...
Re: Distilled Water Deviations-Dehumidifier water
You can set up to distill your own water, Foxtrot . . . The missing element is the condenser section of the setup. Basically, you need a pot with a lid (clampable or heavy) for boiling the water. Preferably both should be copper. The lid should have a hole in it. In the hole, silver solder one end of a long coil of - say 1/4" - soft copper tubing, such as is used to hook up the ice maker in a freezer. Stretch the coil so that there is an upside down "J" leading quickly from the lid to get most of the coil in a downward slope with a collecting container at the bottom end. What drips into the container will be distilled water. For greatest efficiency (recovery) the coil which resumes at the bottom of the upside down "J" should be cooled. I recall a similar device made from glass in my high school chemistry lab, which made all its own distilled water. Such may still be available. Of course you should never use such a device with a fermented mixture of corn, sugar, yeast and water, as the output will not be suitable for the inside of your steam locomotive boiler. BG Charles - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 10:10 PM Subject: Re: Distilled Water Deviations-Dehumidifier water Woops! Brain-flatulance. :/ I was thinking about distilling your own water. Trot, the mistaken, fox... On Fri, 6 Apr 2001, Peter Trounce wrote: Trot, They're talking about a DEhumidifier here, to produce water, not a Humidifier to evaporate water, Peter. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: MOVE THE CLOCK
FWIW, I understand that all trains pause for an hour at the beginning and/or ending of the daylight savings period . . . Unfortunately, my "old timer's" keeps me from remembering which. Charles From: "Casey Sterbenz" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hey, guys, In the Spring its "Spring Ahead!" That means we LOSE an hour! Officially at 2:00 AM Saturday night/Sunday morning the time magically changes to 3:00 AM. If you move the clocks back, you'll be two hours off!
Re: Guy Fawkes - YAK
Actually, I thought the locomotives made with these left over parts were known as Yahs . . . Charles From: "Anthony Dixon" [EMAIL PROTECTED] I was waiting for someone to ask what a "Shea" engine looked like, who made it , what did it cost and when would it be available, as opposed to a Shay. I understand they are being made to use up all the left hand driver parts remaining from the original Shay,s. Apparently some young engineer in Japan was doing a material review of G1 Shay rejects and found all these left hand lost wax brass parts. Originally nobody realised that full sized Shays were one sided when designing the models, till it was too late. He had this brilliant idea to recover the costs, and make left handed Shay,s. But he cannot use the same name, because someone already owns the intellectual property rights of the original Shay name. This is not a problem, as his grandfathers name was O'Shea Hu Wang. I still think he should keep the real model name as an O' Shea. The name has a romantic history behind it, particularly as the original O' Shea,s could not walk a straight line and had to follow the local railway lines to get home. It is no co-incidence that all tracks laid down for Shays are not straight, had tight curves and waved up and down. It has nothing to do with the loggers and the lumber camps. (American Romantiscism) . The original builders could never envision a straight track and they had never seen one. I understand the new O' Shea engines will be un Corked sometime around 4-1-01.
Re: Back to wheels
On my Ruby, the wheels are not insulated. It is about a year old, so they may have changed. A live steamer would need insulation material resistant to the heat, fuels, water, and oil associated with the activity. So, many of the materials used in electric powered units would be ruled out. Charles From: "hkelsey" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Are Ruby's wheels insulated? What material is usually used if the wheel rim is insulated?
Re: Refund??
A "tax refund" is the return to you of money you loaned to the government interest-free last year. The irony is compounded (sorry!) when you get a "refund anticipation loan" at high interest from your friendly local preparer. Charles From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Just in time to spend that tax refund! Ah - What is a "tax refund" ? I only wish!!
Re: Roundhouse Colonial YAK
Do I sense redundancy here? BG From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Or I may be nuts. Then again I AM CANADIAN :-))
Re: STRANGE
My PC downloaded an add-on for my MS Internet Explorer having to do with Japanese/English character substitutions . . . Charles - Original Message - From: "John G Johnston III" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 8:46 AM Subject: Re: STRANGE You are bonkers! - John - Original Message - From: "Peter Trounce" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 8:39 AM Subject: STRANGE Now this IS strange. I just sent an answer to Mr. Kitsukawa's letter (I$B5L@n!!=cI) of today on the G1MRA Project Loco. And as I typed it, my letters all came up in GREEK !!! Try it please everyone and tell me I'm not bonkers, Peter.
Re: question re : milling
With respect to precision, I suggest that the amount/degree thereof is related to the construction of the "headstock" or handpiece. Most of the imported $4.95 - $9.95 units have little. A $30.00 - $50.00 unit with a high quality Jacobs chuck or collets and thrust-accepting ball/roller bearings can be quite precise. Examples in the USA are the Fordham(sp?) tools. Charles From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED] A flexshaft is as it sounds and extensions that is added to the dremel or any motor that allows you to move more freely ( flexible ) - They work well for small things that require very little to no accuracy. Sculptors love them for rough stock removal (woodwork) For precise machinery it is somewhat useless. I have a larger version that attaches to me bench grinder. Worked really well for shaping the inside ribs on a 1/24 scale Royal Yacht I had built. For metal it would be an exciting adventure especially with a sharp bit on the end. Ouch makes my fingers throb already.
Re: flexshafts
The "cheap" flexible shaft units with which I'm familiar are now made in China, I believe, and are usually in the "bargain tool" bins at ACE Hardware and its competitors. Harbor Freight lists one at $9.99 plus shipping. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41000 Charles - Original Message - From: "Royce Woodbury" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 11:23 AM Subject: flexshafts . . . Examples in the USA are the Fordham(sp?) tools. Charles I am familiar with Fordham tools, but Bob mentioned that the flexshafts he was referring to could be "picked up cheap". If so, where ? royce w
Re: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
Another way to bend tubing, I'm told, is to fill it with "CerroBend"(sp?) or one of the other low melting point alloys. Once the bend is complete, boiling watter will clean out the alloy. Charles
Guy Fawkes - YAK
Well, Tony . . . Wasn't he the "guy" who attempted more-or-less unsuccessfully to blow up the British government? Parliment building? And isn't there a British holiday in his honor (honour)? Charles Bet no one knows who Guy Fawkes was either!!!.
Re: Wheel Backs - YAK
When I was a teenager (1950's) and a real follower of hot rodding, a magazine published something about add-on water cooled brake shoes for autos with drum brakes -- especially for the front wheels, which take most of the braking load. This was well before disk brakes hit the mass auto market. Wonder what happened to the idea? Charles Off Topic:- Many years ago when disc brakes were first used at the Le Mans 24 hr race in 1958/59, the first solid discs were made from Meehanite, a type of close grained cast iron. On the Triumph TR2s, some of the discs actually developed 1000,s of tiny "surface" cracks. When the team mechanics went to change the pads, the discs collapsed into piles of 1/8" pieces. Tony D.
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Holding nuts in place with a dab of heavy grease sometimes works . . . Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest?
Re: question re : milling - YAK
Have you seen the "Dilbert" cartoon http://www.dilbert.com featuring his pet dog, "Dogbert", selling day-old lottery tickets at half price? As he says, one's odds of winning are only slightly reduced. Charles From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED] ( I keep buying them lottery tickets - wow the machine shop a jackpot would build)
Anyone Remember - YAK
Anyone remember the brass imports and other near-scale models once available to run on Lionel standard-gauge size track (2.125" gauge)? Model Engineering Works imported some, and Bob Borwn has recently written of them in Narrow Gauge Short Line Gazette . . . But what about the model(s) by Douglas W Hughes Jr, whose model was a GE 44 tonner which was Model Railroaders's 'Model of the Month' December 1973. It had a scale of 29/64 inch to 1 ft, Ratio 1:26.5, and Gauge 2-1/8 inches? Any others in that size? Charles
Re: Track Roadbed and Operating Pit
Interesting . . . If that's a ladder on the left instead of wide-gauge track BG you have quite a nice space. As for the concrete in the pit, can you slide the hole to the right a bit and make the concrete part of a step down? Charles - Original Message - From: "Joe Betsko" [EMAIL PROTECTED] This page shows some of the progress I made today http://www.gardensteamers.com/track_install.html Right now, I have a level point to point set up and it's great to be steaming in the meantime!
Re: Speaking of Steam
That little Plymouth isn't bad, either . . . Charles From: "Charles W. Walters" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Here is a link to a picture of the Excelsior. It appears to be a European version of the Ruby (same valve gear, etc). http://www.accucraft.com/pg-news.htm
Re: SoCal Gold Snow
Not too far from Canon(sp?) Pass . . . or the Roy Rogers Museum AIRC. Beautiful country through there. Charles For those who don't know, Lake Arrowhead is a gorgeous lake glittering like a diamond among the mountains in Southern California. Air is clean up there! Big Bear is a nice lake, but less gem like. Of course Lake Arrowhead is fairly well and lavishly developed during the last twenty five years. Big Bear had lots of gold mined from the area, in fact more gold was hauled from that area than most or any other county in California.
Re: Track Roadbed and Operating Pit
Drainage to what? Sump pump? Or are you on a slope where the drain pipe would eventually surface? I suggest something removable to keep the feet off the concrete(?) floor. Door mats made of recycled tires is a possiblilty which comes to mind. And something to keep the butt off the concrete wall . . . Just a couple of thoughts . . . Charles - Original Message - From: "Joe Betsko" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fellow steamers, I am in the middle of digging a trench along my straight away. So far, the pit measures 4 ft by 4 ft by 15 inches. I plan to build an operator's pit/path to fiddle with those manual locos along the lines of 4 ft wide and 12 to 15 ft long (depending on my back). My concern is about the height for comfortable access to the manual loco along the pit path. 24 inches? 30 inches? 36 inches? I am leaning toward 30 inches...thus raising the roadbed by 15 inches. Has anyone else done this on the list? If I could do this the whole way around, there would be a turtle back effect in the middle. Has anyone bothered to put in PVC piping for drainage?
Re: Eureka Palisade No.4's home
And, it has run out of Durango on the DS - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 12:18 PM Subject: Re: Eureka Palisade No.4's home In a message dated 02/26/01 12:13:59 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: does it run or just a display It has been known to run (in fact I have VHS movie) on the Cumbres Toltec Scenic RR track out of Chama, NM. Jim Crabb Seabrook
Re: Wheels
Interestingly, wonder how knurled tread would work in our scales? I've got a hunch it would grind up any rail with the possible exception of steel in pretty short order -- just like a rotary file. Logging roads that ran on wooden rails sometimes did use toothed drivers, however. So for the ultimate in traction, one should replace a pair of tires with spur gears and the rails with appropriately matching rack, I suppose. Naturally the spur gear tires would still need flanges. Replacing all driver tires on a loco with flanged spur gears is probably not necessary and possibly would increase siderod bind . . . A bonus is the increase in "clickety-click" noise resulting from using rack as rail. Charles - Original Message - From: "Geoff Spenceley" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Certainly a good idea of yours in that the tyres can be removed and replaced with any material one chooses. Accordingly, I am ordering six ordinary steel tyres from you with a knurled tread machined on them. Bring them to Sacramento and we will work out a price!
Re: Russia Iron (was Forced repaint)
I would like to see such a site . . . Charles - Original Message - From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:49 PM Subject: Re: Russia Iron (was Forced repaint) As a commercial Photographer I can guarantee that any shinny surface photographed out in sunlight on a clear blue day will take on a blue cast. The object reflects the blue sky above it. Therefore a gloss black will look deep blue and a neutral grey will appear med blue etc... For any accurate representation of colour it would have to be shot indoors or under a neutral covering. The most accurate representation of colour in the photos is the horizontal point right before the shadow creeps in on the boiler - as it is reflecting the horizon and others at this point. Hope this helps. Maybe if the demand is there I should set up a web site on photographing small steam locos outdoors with simple yet highly effective tricks of the trade. My 2 cents US worth or $20.00 Canadian. Ferdinand. http://victorian.fortunecity.com/lion/829/articles/boiler.htm " Isn't it interesting that if you look at the pictures that accompany the article, that they are obviously effected by the lighting."
E P loco (was Russian Blue)
Yes, thanks very much. Helps one realize that 12" = 1' locos are large even when they are small. I did not realize that two lowboys were required for each trip. Charles - Original Message - From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED] HI Clark Thanks for sharing the pics - WOW now that is Live Steaming taken to a new level. Cheers Ferdinand
Re: Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was Iron castings)
Addresses for the two vendors you list, please. Charles - Original Message - From: "Gary Broeder" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 1:53 AM Subject: RE: Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was Iron castings) I sure wish we could get good iron castings in our scales -vance- Vance, All of the wheel castings I have used from Locosteam and Walsall have turned like butter in my Unimat 3". For traction cast iron can not be beat. I also recall an ad from Argyle loco in Australia some time ago offering stainless drivers. Perhaps Gordon can update us on this. Gary B
Re: Wheels
OK. So what sources for the CNC wheels? Charles - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, Saw some really fantastic wheels for 7.5" rolling stock this week at Larry Smith's steamup. All steel, CNC to a great profile, and about the same price as cast wheel blanks that need to be machined out. Every 7.5" operator I've talked to reticently admits that the alloys and gray iron wheels eventually need replacing. The same seems to be true of the smaller O gauge wheels that were Zn castings, especially the older spoked wheels. As I get more and more into Lionel with the Depot project, the more I shy away from anything that is made of Zn or its alloys. Not truly small scale as used here, but the 0-8-0 I took delivery on this week is definitely a keeper. That 12" diameter boiler is something else. We are going to try to make it into a 2-8-4 configuration. It is even equipped with TWO Penburthy steam injectors! On the #1 gauge scene, I noticed in the two days I was there that there were NO #1 gauge trains being run. Guess the guys got spoiled using my elevated track and do not like using a ground level oval for #1. I sole the other portable PETS and do not have the newest "ultralight" track ready to go yet. Keep your steam up! Walt Lunk
Re: Pumps - Digest - Number 368
Want a CAD program . . . free? Try http://www.imsisoft.com/free/ for TurboCad 2.0. Satisfied quasi-user. Charles - Original Message - From: "Landon Solomon" [EMAIL PROTECTED] No, I don't have a CAD program. Can you take a screenshot of the open CAD program and send that as a .jpg? Trot, the fox who can't afford a CAD program...
Re: Water pumps...
L.B.S.C. Wrote a "how-to" for making a steam-powered water pump in the image of a compound air compressor as I recall. It was in the book reprinted several times under various titles -- "Shop, Shed Road" was one title. A couple of 1969 copies are listed at http://www.abebooks.com from stores in the UK. Charles - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Water pumps... Is there any easily available info on making axle pumps for G-gauge locos? I'm wondering if one could be fitted to a Ruby... I don't know of the loco would have the power necissary to overcome the pump and pull a train at the same time. Failing the feasibility of that, how about building a steam powered water pump that works on the same princible as an air-compressor and make it look as such? By using a 3/8" piston to push a 1/8" ram overcoming boiler presure shouldn't be a problem. Obviously, making the valve components would be the most difficult part but why else wouldn't this work? Has it been tryed/done before?
Re: Stock Cars
What about the various Car Builder Cyclopedias (later Car and Locomotive Cyclopedias)? Stock cars are discussed in my 1966 edition but not in my 1984 version. I suspect some of the earlier versions would have what you need. http://www.abebooks.com dealers usually have several versions listed, but you may not want to pay the prices . . . Charles - Original Message - From: "Clark Lord" [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am trying to help a friend in finding standard gauge plans, photos, drawings, or articles on stock cars used around 1900-1940. Most of what I've found so far is orientated to narrow gauge cars although White's book covers freight cars up to the 1890's. The intent is to scratch build stock cars of the correct period for the Aster Mikado to pull.
Re: Switch/turnout plans
Or, take a look at this site http://www.rickadee.net/~zephyrus/turnout/turnout.html for drawings. Charles - Original Message - From: "Walt Gray" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 6:38 AM Subject: Re: Switch/turnout plans Thanks, Walt. Cheers, Walt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You can probably scale up some from the NMRA standards. Walt
Re: Don't miss this!!
I agree! I paid an extra $10 for the cab ride in a 2-8-2T. Worth every penny. Charles - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 12:36 PM Subject: Don't miss this!! For you who are going to attend the Garden Railway Convention in Seattle this coming summer take an extra day and go to this place. Check the web site. http://www.mrsr.com/index.html Put this on your list of things that you must see. Lots of operational steam locomotives. Salty CCBW
Re: Screwed up again!
Vance -- How successfully will that Forney be at handling cars coupled on the rear around curves??? I built an 0-4-4T Forney in On3 with a comparable slot in the truck bolster and found it needed a surprisingly wide radius. Effectively, that Forney is a six-coupled loco with a very long wheelbase. [And even electric powered, it helped my vocabulary and especially my rhythm! BG] Charles VR Bass wrote: All over the nation -- if not the world -- small-scale live steamers are desperately trying to get their little beasts into top condition (or finished, in many cases!). If we could only hear their combined comments, I'm sure we would learn many new and colorful words! -vance- who finally figured out a simple and cost-effective way to mount a Forney trailing truck, thus discovering that the truck will require about 1/2" lateral play (in each direction) to negotiate LGB 1100 curves. @#$%!
Re: gauge 1 Mallet
Vance - Really nice model! Annoyingly, that d..n Yahoo ad messed up the colors and required a reload for each picture . . . Charles VR Bass wrote: Hey, folks, here's an interesting site I just found showing a Mallet built from a Regner kit by Frank Peters in Germany. http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Village/5672/e_start.htm and click on "the loco" and "the pictures" for photos. I wonder how hard it would be to build that with bar frames instead of plate frames...? -vance-
Re: Steam Areoplanes too? (O.T.)
For US $6.95 plus ph (catalog page 9), Lindsay Publications http://www.lindsaybks.com will sell you a 39 page booklet extracted from "Model Engineer 1913" telling one how to build a steam powered airplane . . . Charles Trent Dowler wrote: Pete, Perhaps what I was told was fiction as well, but I really think that I remember seeing photos of a steam engine powered airplane. Probably a prototype that never got off the ground (pun intended). Used a flash boiler I'm thinking.
Re: Painting bare brass
Have you "pickled" the clean brass in a mild acid to provide some "teeth" for the paint to grip? Did you bake the painted brass in an oven before significant handling? Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I seem to have problems getting the hi-temp paint to adhere well to plain brass and have been unable to locate any primer that will withstand heat and stick to brass. Who might offer a suggestion or two. Lets not make this a long drawn out discussion gents and ladies.
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - Number 321
Yes. When going very fast on the straightaway, the locos will often "take wing" upon reaching the curve . . . BG Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 12/29/00 3:01:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From my reading I recall the bumble bee was thought too heavy for its wings given the previously understood pattern of wing motion. And our steam engine takes advantage of this little known fact somehow ? Pete
Re: Another fuel (was Kerosene fueling)
When we used cut trees at Christmas, I would cut off the limbs and burn them in our fireplace. The speed with which fire went from a match to consume the entire mass of limbs and the roar of the fire helped convince me to quit using cut trees . . . Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: (a little tounge in cheek) :-) After disposing of the annual Christmas tree and cleaning up all the fallen needles (there were lots of them) the thought occured to me that given the flamibility of a aged Chirstmas tree and the needles that here would be another source for locomotive fuel. The needles would make scale wood logs and burn very hot. Something else for Susan to consider. Salty
Re: Electric Steam / Cold Steam
As I recall, the Swiss electrified some steam locos during WWII (oil shortage?) They put coils of resistance wire in the firebox. Catenary(sp?) was already in place. Charles Susan Parker wrote: As to running a heater from 60 VAC. I would imagine it would be considered somewhat unsafe these days. The voltage is high enough to give a nasty shock if hands were damp, especially to smaller children or animals (might keep the slugs and snails off the track though). I imagine these days one would use a low voltage halogen lighting supply type system and heating elements from something like a 12V car accessory socket powered water boiler.
Re: Superelevated track that does work
Probably the long rigid wheelbase is some or even all of the problem with two axle cars. Charles Jim Curry wrote: Further to Gary Raymond wheels, I do convert all my rolling stock to his 33" #1 wheel sets. (I could have bought my own screw machine after all these sets!). There's no question they improve the rolling characteristics of cars. Funny about their performance on 2 axle cars. I wonder if it's because of a more scale size flange?
Re: Free CAD software
Yes. That's better than the version 2 with no book that I have! Thanks. Ship to me at Charles Brumbelow Nashville Public Television 161 Rains Avenue Nashville, TN 37203-5330 And let me know how much shipping and where to send the money. Thanks, Charles Jim Curry wrote: Charles: Sorry for the tardy reply, I misfiled your email. Sorry, the V6 is gone. Still got the other if you're interested. Jim
Re: Electric water pumping station
Thinking further about pressurized pump-up containers . . . What about a "new" container with built in pump such as one uses for bug spray and the like? [I say "new" to avoid converting our steam locos into pesticide dispensers.] A two to four gallon tank with one gallon of water would fill a boiler without much pressure drop, I would think. They can be pumped up quite nicely and have a handle with a valve built in. One would need to adapt the sprayer end to fit the boiler. Charles
Re: Aster Allegheny
Looks like all will be in good hands . . . "Phil. Paskos" wrote: Yo Geoff; My check will be on the way on April 1st. Phil.P.Reading,PA. Joe, re Allegheny, I don't quite recall, but I believe I offered to accept funds and take delivery for a three months test and evaluation and then I would send it to Clark Lord for his three to six months repair and evaluation. Interested parties should send their contributions to the following address: Kantfindmie House 2 Slipaway ST, Neverneverton, Nevada. 20001-1/2 Partners will receive the loco for tests after sufficient funds for the purchase have been received. Delivery will be made to partners in the order that their checks are received. So HURRY! Honest Geoff.
Roadbed Superelevation
Has anyone used the spline system of building roadbed for outdoor track? For those new to the term, spline roadbed is made by gluing successive narrow strips of wood together until the desired roadbed width is reached, then sand/plane the top surface smooth (and superelevated if desired). Spline roadbed tends toward generating its own easements and is extremely strong for its weight. Materials can be saved and drainage provided by alternating a row of spacers with a row of full length strips. External/waterproof glue would be needed, and rot resistant or treated wood would be highly desirable. I suppose one could make sectional roadbed for a portable layout if desired. Charles
Re: Electric water pumping station
What about a liberated electric fuel pump from a motor vehicle with fuel injectors? Seems I've heard those generate significant pressure. And a 12 volt motorcycle battery isn't all that heavy. Might need to remove or change out a filter . . . Charles
Re: Free CAD software
If no one else has spoken for it and you are in the USA, I am interested in the V6 . . . Thanks, Charles Jim Curry wrote: First come, first served. Cleaning out the stuff under my desk, I have one copy of IMSI Turbocad V. 3 with books. This is a 2d program. I also have V6 Professional 2d/3d with book. You pay shipping. Jim
Re: ssBoilers
If my mental arithmetic and memory are both right, Gauge 3 IS 1:20.3 standard gauge. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess gauge-3 counts as "small scale" - it's smaller than 1:20.3 standard gauge!
Re: 1:20.3 std gauge
If my calculator is correct, 1:20.3 standard gauge is 2.78 actual inches . . . round to 2.75 for practical work. And, if my memory is correct, that is the old # 3 gauge (our track for 1:20.3 three foot gauge @ 1.75 inches is the old # 1 gauge and 1.25 inches is the old # 0 gauge -- now pronounced "ough".
Cabooses @ 1:32
Have you looked at the USA [Trains?] or Lionel "G" cabooses? Both manufacturers replicate standard gauge "stuff" but I can't remember the scale ratios they use . . . I recall that USA in particular has received plaudits from the press for some of their locomotives' fidelity to scale dimensions -- I just can't remember what scale! Senior moment, I suppose. Charles Clark Lord wrote: To that extent I ordered two MDC cabooses from San-Val hoping that they would be suitable for my mainline engines. Sadly they are NG road names with truss rods. The steps don't even look proper. I was hoping that I could modify them in some way to make an acceptable 1/32 caboose.
Re: Front Pilot
All the prototype drawings I've seen put leading axles in their own frame which has side to side capability. The only way a "simple" pivot would work, it seems to me, would be if the set of driving wheels was also pivoted. Seems like even the Mason Bogie's non-driving front wheels were in fact a pilot truck with side to side capability . . . Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: While planning the modification of my Ruby to a 2-4-4 that resembles a Mason Bogie (a "Tea Kettle") I have come up with a question about the front pilot wheels. When adding the front pilot wheels should I provide for some lateral movement or would it be ok to just pivot them at the center of the axle? Some of the sparkies I have seen have lateral motion to the front pilot and others do not. I would assume it would be determined by the radius of the track on which I will be running. Any comments would be appreciated.
Re: OTP: CO2 powered locomotive?
"Model Railroader" circa 1950 ran an article on "Little Engines" 1/4" scale live steamer kits which had been built as CO2 locos. They used dry ice, which is frozen CO2, and its evaporation provided the gas. Check for the articles at http://index.mrmag.com/ Charles Trent Dowler wrote: Hello Everyone, A fellow that I work with is into the paintball guns hobby. He uses the same small CO2 cartridges that I used in my pellet guns as a kid. He jokingly (at least I think he was joking) asked why I didn't just use CO2 cartridges in my little steamers because, "it looks like it would be less trouble". After my initial response of, "some people just don't get it", I wondered if it had been done. Sounds simple enough, right? Anybody seen CO2 cartridges or similar items used for motive power? My thoughts are running wild! Later, Trent
Re: Aster Allegheny
There is also an Allegheny at the Henry Ford Museum in Greenfield
Village near Detroit, as I recall. And, don't forget the fine book on
the subject published by the "Mainline Modeler" folks ("Allegheny:
Lima's Finest" I believe is the title). Charles
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 10/30/00 3:01:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
For those interested in the prototype of the eagerly awaited Aster
Allegheny,
it's nicely covered at-
www.steamlocomotive.com/allegheny/
The real thing is uncovered in the back yard at the BO Museum in Baltimore!
"They" (my BO pals at the museum) claim it is the most powerful loco built.
When in Rome...
Pete
Re: Tubing and fittings
I saw some small sizes of stainless steel tubing at a hobby shop a coupla weeks ago . . . KS, or Special Shapes, or one like those brands which provides boxes of sizes. So, the tube shoulb be readily available. This hobby shop had a good presence in railroad . . . HO, Lionel/MTH, etc. but was also big into RC vehicles and planes. Don't believe they had compression fittings, though -- at least I didn't see any. Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have been looking for 1/8" od stainless steel tubing and the compression fittings to match. I want to build a superheater for my Ruby but have not been able to locate any of the materials. Anyone know where I might find this sutff on the west coast? Salty Portland
Re: Plans Drawings
Fairly close to home (for me) I suggest you contact the Tennessee Valley Railway Museum or the NMRA Kalmbach Library, both of which are in Chattanooga, Tennessee. Other choices might be the railroad museum in Sacramento, California or one or more of the universities which are preserving similar records. Maybe the Colorado Railroad Museum or the Denver Public Library. Virginia Tech University has the archives of the Norfolk Western, I believe. Hope you find a good repository! Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I had a visitor at The Depot this morning that had in his possession a steamer trunk full of the plans, letters, records, etc. of a Mr. Hart. Mr. Hart designed Maintenance of Way Equipment in the 1800's. The cars were manufactured by The Rodger Car Co. Builders photo's of each type of car for various railroads were included. These were pre-Janney era. The couplers shown were a knuckle type that I had never seen before. If any of you knows of anyone willing to do the necessary conservatory work on these items and also make them available to the brotherhood of railroad fan(atic)s, please let me know. At this time The Depot does not have the necessary funds or space to properly house the collection. Keep your steam up! Walt
Re: Compound Engines
At least one of the DRGW outside frame narrow gauge Mike's was delivered with compound cylinders, as I recall. Believe it was soon de-compounded. Vaughan compound, named after a Baldwin chief engineer, I think . . . Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: While brousing through a well worn copy of N.K. Harris' Model Statonary Marine Steam Engines I found a section on the multiple piston engines (chapter 5). As I understand it each cylinder needs to be roughly twice the size as the one it receives steam from. Several years ago at the San Francisco Maritime Museum I saw one of these three cylinder marine engines on display. The first of the three cylinders was only about 6" in diameter while the last was bigger than a healthy garbage can. It has been quite a few years since I saw it and I can't remember all the details. Suffice to say I doubt that this type application would be very practical for small model locomotives, not that it wouldn't work. I have been looking at a walking beam engine to power a small locomotive just as sort of a novelty and to keep me out in my shop. But first I have to finish modifying my Ruby for better performance and a different look. Salty
Re: OTP, please forgive!
I've heard of instances where bottled nitrogen, oxygen, etc. were knocked over, broke the valve off, and proceeded to jet away -- even through block walls! Ever launch one of those small CO2 cartridges into the world by punching the end? Quite interesting . . . Charles Geoff Spenceley wrote: Re your comments on air explosions, not so TrotFox, me boy, an exploding air tank or air bottle is EXTREMELY dangerous--so can be an exploding air line--especially if it is pvc. At 4500psi you most probably wouldn't be alive to worry about a fire ball!
Re: OTP, please forgive!
Yes. Page, Arizona, with its coal fired generator for the benefit primarily of LA and Lost Wages, and TVA in my area with its coal burning plants and their 1000 foot+ stacks come to mind. Now back to the compressed air automobile and live steam -- Didn't a lot of mine and other industral locomotives use compressed air? I seem to remember that Homestake in Lead, SD used these . . . but I don't know the pressures. One of the people running at the live steam meet in Columbia, Tennessee last month had a 7.5" gauge 4-8-4 pulling a long loaded train -- and he was using a gasoline powered air compressor in the rear car rather than a steaming boiler. It appeared he even had an electronic sound system . . . Charles VR Bass wrote: What we're looking for now, instead of decreasing demand for low-mileage personal transportation, is a way to foul someone else's nest rather than our own.
Re: Driver Quartering
Ancient memory here, Trot, but I believe that I bought some Rex drivers "S" gauge narrowed from 7/8" to 3/4" for "On3" for an On3 project. They came unassembled, in case one wished to use a frame with drilled axle holes rather than one with milled/filed slots. The axles had square ends (obviously less or equal diagonally between corners to the axle diameter) and the drivers had slightly undersize holes with, as I recall, one corner pointing to the crankpin hole. I think the drivers were zamac with steel tires . . . Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are the drivers quartered with square-ended axles? I've never seen one up-close and personal. Trot, the fox who speaks only of what he knows. ;] On Sun, 22 Oct 2000, Mike Eorgoff wrote: Roundhouse Sammie is inside framed. TrotFox \ Always remember, /\-/\ AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a ( o o ) [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." \./
Re: Driver Quartering
Any web url's or e-mail addresses for Walsall and a broach supplier? Thanks, Charles Gary Broeder wrote: On Sun, 22 Oct 2000, Charles Brumbelow wrote: the ends of the axles were squared off . Walsall in the UK can supply axles and cast iron drivers broached to fit. They also take Visa. Squaring the ends yourself, if building your own, would be easy. Square broaches are also available. GaryB
Driver Quartering
More years ago than I care to remember, a company by the name of "Rex" (I believe) made "S" gauge scale locomotive kits which were also adapted to On3. As I recall, the ends of the axles were squared off and the driver centers were cast with a square press fit hole. This automatically provided consistant quartering. Reckon this is worth pursuing in 1:20.3 et.al.? Charles
Re: Coupler height
A couple of further observations, Vance . . . In addition to Kadee becoming the defacto standard for "serious/committed" hobbyist, the NMRA developed and made available royalty-free the "horn hook" coupler. That took the proprietary designs off the table for the set market AND made the initial set train easy to upgrade for the soon-to-be serious hobbyist. In the "O Gauge" -- not 1/4" scale -- market, the expiration of the Lionel patents on its knuckle coupler paved the way for massive competition to emerge. Example: Auburn/Kusan offered a streamlined passenger car made of extruded aluminum before Lionel did, but with full working scale design but Lionel size couplers. Not a market success. They also offered some freight cars, also not a market success, which became part of the Williams and/or K-Line companies, but now with compatible couplers. In the software world, Lionel would have been told to unbundle its couplers, as they were creating an unfair monopoly . . . Charles VR Bass wrote: While it would seem to be a no- brainer to come up with standards for the basic operational specifications (couplers, track), history shows that the early days of HO were entangled in the same kind of mess in those areas that we've seen in the naming attempt. Ultimately, the manufacturers straightened it all out (someone came up with a product everyone liked -- the Kadee -- and it became the de facto standard), but they don't seem to want to do this in large scale.
Personnel Issues
Found out a couple of things while looking for personnel for my budding garden railway . . . The typical (all?) credit cards measure 5'8.5" in 1:20.3 on their longest dimension -- not far from the average height of an adult male. Useful if you are looking for right-sized personnel for your railroad. And, I believe credit cards are the same size world-wide. And, at my local K-Mart (now "Big K-Mart") I found "The Corps!" Construction Crew Set by Lanard Toys, Inc. Seven guys about 3 and 7/8" tall -- 6'6" in 1:20.3 -- fully poseable, for $9.99. Included were wheelbarrow and other gear. Lanard has Hong Kong, USA, and UK addresses. One looks pretty good with my new Ruby . . . Hope this helps someone. Charles
Re: Loco Power, was Employment Opportunity
I would suspect BTU calculations for the volume of steam needed along with the voltage to be provided would give the amperage required for the electric boiler. For reference, check out the toy boiler/engine units sold in the better (read pricer) toy stores. Some were electric, others fuel. As far as the dry ice power, dry ice is frozen CO2. It normally goes from solid to gas at room temperature without a liquid state -- thus the name. The "smoke from water" demo is partly because the water exchanges heat with the dry ice faster than the air. The circa 1950 Model Railroader article was based on the Little Engines O gauge 4-8-4 designed for live steam, as I recall. It had a cylinder with screw-on lid which occupied the tender and was used for the dry ice. Interestingly, the faster one ran, the cooler the tank would become and the slower the dry ice would vaporize . . . so maybe one would need electric coils to keep the dry ice tank warm . . . Charles Trent Dowler wrote: Hello Everyone, Track powered heaters for our steamers? Dry ice powered "steamers"? The discussions really sparked an interest. Track powered heaters: I see where this could be possible, but what kind of voltage and wattage from the power supply? Obviously it would depend on the heater's requirements, but was there any sort of standard? Was this setup ever popular? Dry ice power: This one I might actually try sometime just for kicks. I'm not familiar with dry ice much past the uses in long term cooling and the Halloween gag of placing it in water to create "smoke". Does the dry ice itself create a working pressure during it's melting, or is the dry ice creating an expansive vapor from the water (or something else that I'm not thinking of) that does the trick. What kinds of working pressures could a person expect? Any ideas how someone would devise a lubricator for use with a dry ice boiler? Since I'm not familiar with either process, any and all information would be very much appreciated. Later, Trent
Re: Boiler Making
I just ordered a copy located via http://www.abebooks.com/ . . . I've had good success locating books through them. Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 00-10-03 11:44:42 EDT, you write: To my mind one of the best references is "Model Boilers and Boilermaking" by K. N. Harris. It is a great overview and comparison of all types of model boilers. It has enough practical information and data (properties of saturated steam, evaporation rates, etc.) to give anyone the confidence to design and build a boiler for a particular application. I have been looking for that book for over a year and cannot locate a copy. Any suggestions as to where I can get a copy? Salty
Re: Loco Power, was Employment Opportunity
I have a similar memory . . . In fact, I understand that the Swiss (who are big on electric powered railroads anyway) electrified some steam locos to run from panagraphs. During WWII if memory serves . . . Another relatively unusual power source: In the early 1950's, MODEL RAILROADER had an article about 1/4" scale standard gauge locos powered with dry ice. The builder used Little Engines kits. He used track power to activate a couple motors to operate throttle and reverse. Charles Geoff Spenceley wrote: Steve as far as your comment on the electrified track thing, I recall where a model steam loco was run by heating coils where the current was picked up from the track. Anyone back me up on this, or am I going mad again?
Re: Employment Opportunity
A generous application of salt causes slugs -- which look somewhat like snails in a nudist colony -- to come "all to pieces" as it were. Maybe sault could be used in a defensive manner to protect the track. Charles "Shyvers, Steve" wrote: Mr. Lunkenheimer, There is a type of very sticky pesticide that is designed to be applied around tree trunks to keep insects from crawling up to do their snacking. Its stickiness is similar to wax ring material. I don't know how it would hold up in the Florida wet. Grease might be just as good against snails and a lot easier to clean up. Regards, Steve Shyvers -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 4:47 PM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: Re: Employment Opportunity Thank you for your response. It seems the snails are trying to escape the somewhat overly wet conditions we are experiencing at this time. The beer bait would undoubtedly work, but I'm somewhat concerned about the possibility of mosquito's imbibing and making life totally miserable here in paradise. Ducks are not an alternative. This has been a great problem in the Naples area. There seem to be more people on the 'No ducks allowed' side but the local duck-huggers are even worse than the western tree hugger and spotted owl supporter. I wonder if putting a two inch wide band of grease on the supports for the elevated track would inhibit their encroachment onto the right of way? Keep your steam up! Mr. B. W. Lunkenheimer
Re: G1MRA Loco
Apparently, I came in late to the discussion . . . What is this "Project Book" and where does one obtain a copy? Thanks, Charles 橘川 純 wrote: Please tell me how to cut and mill coupling rods in the lathe or milling (in the Project Book on page14). Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
The Accurcraft web site -- http://www.accucraft.com/ -- has a "how-to" with diagram for adjusting Ruby's valve motion. Since my Ruby hasn't arrived yet, I cannot speak to the procedure itself . . . Charles "M. Paterson" wrote: Bruce, would your or members of your steamer group be willing to share with this thread your timing procedure? I was fortunate that my engine was reasonably adjusted but the one I am currently working with does not want to slow down after I solved the problem of steam pressure loss. By gauge this engine is running at approx 40psi (I have not way of confirming this pressure only that it is just below the release of the safety valve that has been modified by adding a washer. mp --- Bruce Gathman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Several of us were pulling eight car trains, Bachmann cars with metal wheels, this past weekend with our Ruby's at Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and the other loco was brand new and around the 600 serial number range. The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got everything timed and adjusted. On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender behind her ... That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, I regularly pull a heavy metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars (all four axle)...but now as I speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. Jim Crabb Seabrook Bruce Gathman, President Eldorado Timber Mining Co. Tall Trees - Deep Shafts __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Are you serious? Charles Clark Lord wrote: Kevin Strong wrote: Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself up a grade. K: Make a run with a boiler full of white vinegar. That will make a new girl out of her. Works for us here in sunny Las Vegas CB
