Re: Water Proof White Glue

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Tried silicone marine cement? Comes in a squeeze tube. Spread with 
finger or paddle.

Steve Shyvers wrote:

Chuck,

Since I spouted off about white glue I will try to answer you. The 
short answer is that water-soluble white glue is not water proof. The 
behavior you saw on your shay is typical of white glue in my opinion.

I believe that what you need to use is epoxy or solder. How you apply 
the epoxy depends on the location of the leak. If the leak area is 
rigid and small then probably no mechanical reinforcement, such as a 
patch, would be necessary. I used to use a product called "Marine-Tex" 
(www.marinetex.com), which was a fast-setting, metal-filled epoxy that 
was great for such jobs. A more available and cheaper alternative 
might be "JB Weld". Of course the area to be sealed needs to be bare 
metal and clean.

Where is the leak? Along a joint or bend?  How accessible is it?

Steve

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have a leak in the tender of my live steam shay.  The builder 
recommended
a 1 to 1 mixture of water and white glue.  The problem is that after the
mixture hardens (it did seal the leak), the introduction of new water 
in the
tender re-dissolves the glue.  What is a good white glue that can be 
cut by
water, but that will not re-dissolve after it dries

Chuck Walters
Twin Lakes Railway
http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw
 

Re: Sterno for fuel?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Tom, there were about 100 Hydeout Mountain Shays manufactured to run on 
Sterno. Put in a spoon full of jelly and the pop valves sing. Probably 
others were so fueled?

tom leaton wrote:

Gentlemen:   My local drugstore sells cans of Sterno liquid.  It is 
marked as  " Contents: alcohol. Contains less than 4% methanol."
Would this be a good fuel source, or will it gum up the works?
 Advice greatly appreciated!
--- Tom Leaton







_
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. 
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

Re: Clearances between tracks

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Jeffrey, try:
http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/
This site has a lot of stuff. Jim Burns

Jeffrey Williams wrote:

> I recall either a website or a message to this group that had some
> suggestions as to minimum track-to-track centerline distances on
> double-tracked straight sections and for curves of various radii and for
> a selection of scales running on Ga1 track
>
> Anyone recall that site or have that info handy?
>
 

White portable oil lamps

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Thanks to Geoff, Tony, Keith, Gregg, et al. Your responses, both on and
off line, were very informative and helpful. This list is a marvelous
resource. Thank you, Dave, for the facilities.  Jim Burns
 

White portable oil lamps on British Locomotives

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

One of my books refers to the lamps as "constitute a code indicating
the class of train". Would this wonderful group include someone who
might know more on this subject? The basic arrangement appears to be
three posts on the front of the loco which, if all are used, would form
a triangle. From pictures, it appears that the most frequent display is
two lamps on the buffers, the one on the top of the smoke box seldom
being used?
Also confusing to me is the apparent positioning of three posts on the
rear of the tender which may have the same use. When, in practical use,
would they be needed? A tender light arrangement would not normally be
visible on a made up train?
In our model practice, one of my Rubies that looks like an Aster
Pannier, has three posts on the front, but if you look at them, you will
see that, due to the posts positions, you really need three different
lamps to symmetrically hang your lamps. One hanger on the right, one on
the left and one on the rear of the lamp body? Another Ruby that looks
Finescale 48xx also needs three configurations, but thinner posts.
Rubys similar to Stirling Singles have the blade configuration all in
the same direction and could use a common lamp with the bracket on the
back. Aster lamps, as supplied with A4's, will not work on Panniers
Any help you could give, or reference to a passage from a book, or a
website,  would be very helpful. Thanks much.
 

Re: Cleaning coal burner pipes

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Richard, try:
Http://www.smallparts.com

Richard S Griffith wrote:

> Good evening Bob and everyone else.
>
> I had to write to ask how to get in touch with Small Parts, Inc.  I had
> traded with them about 20 years ago but cannot find my old catalog.
> Perhaps there's a website.
>
> My name is Dick Griffith, of Connecticut.  Machining results include a
> small launch steam engine .50" bore, a partially completed Stuart #10
> vertical, and a nearly completed 1.5" scale CliShay that will run on
> 7.25" gauge track and uses a 2 cylinder launch engine, 1.25" bore.  The
> engine in done sans rings. The boiler shell, flue sheets and flues were
> made by a professional, Don Marshall, in VT about 18 years ago.  I need
> to finish it.
>
> 1.5" scale is too big, too heavy and requires specialized trailers or
> motor trucks but they do pull a lot of weight.  I have about 50 more
> hours of work to complete the piping, smoke stack and boiler shroud,
> piston rings, and miscellany such as head light etc.  My son is anxious
> to drive it, but will not help finish it.  Oh, well.
>
> It occurs to me that Gauge I, or .75" scale is the way to go.   I have
> made many HO scale rolling stock and engines, so the smaller scales
> should be no problem.  The smaller scale should be fun.
>
> Well, that's enough for now.  Please drop me a line when you have a
> moment.  Dick
>
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:11:33 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> > Opening up this subject again.  I just got my most recent order frm
> > Small
> > Parts Inc.  (It's really dangerous having an open account!).
> > Anyway, I
> > included one of the bristle brushes that they carry.  I got a .25
> > size
> > because the  coal fired boiler that I am building will have that
> > size flues.
> > It has a nylon bristle and is six inches long, cost was $2.50, I
> > think.  The
> > bristles are pretty stiff and should be able to handle cleaning with
> > no
> > danger what so ever to the flue tubes.  I think that I would also
> > consider
> > having a brass one around too, just for the stubborn stuff.
> > Bob Starr
>
> 
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
 

Re: Need Aster BR78 manual

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Pat, got it copied after mailman passed by. will go out Monday morning. You and
Marlene take it easy. JB

PATRICK DARBY wrote:

> Does anyone have access to the text manual for Aster SNCF 232TC or BR 78
> locomotive. I need the manual or a copy of same. I will willingly pay for
> copying and shipping.  I am having trouble adjusting the Johnson bar to run
> properly in both forward and reverse. This Johnson bar has positive detents
> for forward, neutral and reverse and there is no "in-between". If I adjust
> it to run well forward, then there is binding in the expansion link when I
> shift to reverse, and vice-versa.
> Thanks,
>
> Pat Darby
> Timber and Tallow Branch RR
>
>
 

Re: Boiler storage

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Thank goodness for deep thinkers like Walt and Geoff! I was seated on a stool,
draining water from the several Rubies I own and preparing to attack the boiler
vent holes with a second hand hair blower, properly protected with SPF 15 cream,
when the message arrived from them. My slightly altered program will include
bourbon and a big "Don't worry about it" sign. Thanks for everyone else's advice,
but these two gentlemen, frequently pictured side by side in Post Offices across
the country, are my mentors!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Geoff,
> Care to join me in some meniscus research? We can try to determine if the
> depth of the solution, or mixture, in the glass changes characteristics of
> the meniscus as the level decreases. Because you are an expert in how to
> decrease the level of the fluid in the glass, I'll expect an 'in depth'
> report on your extensive research.
> Giving our all for scientific observation to promote the live steam community!
> Keep your steam up!
> B. W. Lunkenheimer
 

Re: Firebrick cutting tool

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Harry, as shown by prior advice from Robb DeVries, the easiest method for
variable diameter plugs is a simple, cheap jig saw and  blade. It can be a dull
old used blade. After sawing the plug, you can refine thr shape with a file,
knife or tubing with roughed up end. Lots of dust, easy to work with.

Harry Wade wrote:

> At 01:19 PM 12/22/01 -0800, you wrote:
> >I have been reading, with much interest, about the possibility of
> >substituting some form of porous "firebrick" for use as alcohol burner
> >wicks . . . . . . . diamond dust . . . .  coolant . . . . . . .
> >Kevin
>
> Kevin,
>   What you've described is what would be required to work fired clay
> masonry "firebrick" which is not the material called for and what I've
> tried to clarifiy and distinguish.  Even though it's "firebrick" it is
> clearly a different material.  The refractory I have (which yes is in brick
> form) cuts like a hard bread.  Half an old hacksaw blade (with a duct tape
> grip), a kitchen paring knife, and 40 grit sandpaper are nearly overkill.
> That's all the tools needed.
>   I suspect that if I turn a small box chuck to be held in my cruddy
> old electric hand drill, and "wax" the firebrick plug into the box chuck
> using a hardening mastic or ahesive of some kind, or even shellac, a
> cylindrical plug can be turned in seconds.  Some of you may get to try this
> before I get around to it.  If so I would do this job outside, or at least
> not in the same room with any other tools or equipment becasue it looks
> like it's probably going to throw up a cloud of talcum powder-like ceramic
> dust.  Thus the cruddy drill.
>
> Cheers,
> Harry
 

Re: "Firebrick" for wicks and burners

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Don, not a chemist, but bet the "aluminum" is part of a chemical compound. Both
potassium and aluminum are in silicates and these are frequently fire resistant
as in the mica sheets that were windows in the old stoves.  JB

Don Plasterer wrote:

> I was also in a wood burning stove store recently and asked about fire
> bricks.  That had two types, both used to line the inside of a woodburning
> fireplace insert or Fraanklin type stove.  The one brick was very hard and I
> would think very difficult to shape.  It also did not seem to be very
> porous.  The second brick was lighter and probably could be shaped with a
> grinding bit in a rotory tool.  The store rep said the brick contained
> aluminium.  I'm not sure if that would be bad or good.
>
> Has anyone found a firebrick (and source) that might make a good wick?
>
> Don
>
> _
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
>
 

Re: Dee & Project books

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Boom!

Jim Curry wrote:

> Still clear in Maine :>(
>
 

Re: Dee & Project books

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Books reached Heartland of the Carolinas, Charlotte, today!

Jim Curry wrote:

> To all who ordered these books:
> They were dropped into the mail on 11-28 in sunny old England.  It'll be
> interesting to see how long a book order takes to arrive.
>
> Jim Curry
>
 

Re: Regional Call (Now Mail service)

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Keith and list, Wife and I had the catalog problem wherein our PO box was
stuffed with unwanted catalogs. It took some time (about 6 months), but We both
called every catalog sender with a 1-800 number and politely ask to be removed
from their list. Most promised to do so, but also warned that it would take
about three months (?) to actually remove us.
To remove the junk and keep the live steam stuff, try it and expect results
several months later. I'd estimate an 85% reduction or even higher.  Jim Burns

Keith Taylor wrote:

> Hi Art,
> Unfortunately, even the best mail has to be delivered by my local mail
> carrier! They try their best, but are inundated with tons of ads for ladies
> underwear, discount coupons for food stuffs that nobody would eat on a bet
> and a million catalogs that I did not ask for! Since the advent of E-mail,
> most all of what gets delivered to my house is unwanted trash! I have to be
> very careful to not chuck out something that is of actual importance.
> Keith
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Art Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Not so. Subscribe to 'Australian Model Engineering' & you will experience
> a
> > first class service mag & postwise.
> >
> >  Art Walker, Guildford, England
>
>
 

Re: K4 piston backhead

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Richard, try this link. It was a big help to my planning.
http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRstddims.html/
Jim Burns

Richard Finlayson wrote:

> Hey listees,
>
> In a blatant plug for the Aster Lion, I built another one for Dr. Dan
> Liebowitz and I continue to be impressed with that fun little hunk o'
> burnin' locomotive. Too much fun.
>
> My question however has to do with my Aster K4. I need to
> tighten/adjust/repack the piston gland. I do not have a set of plans.
> Before I have at it with the nut driver, does anyone know off hand
> how to get to the piston gland (can I get to it just by removing the
> cosmetic cylinder cover and cosmetic backhead cover?), if it is an
> O-ring or graphite thread, if all the bolts on the cosmetic backhead
> cover need to be removed, etc.
>
> Any advice or comment appreciated. The locomotive runs great and I'll
> leave it alone until I'm better situated... unless it's a one-nighter
> and in that case I could use the diversion...
>
> Also, I'm laying out my future railroad (again) in CAD. What's the
> standard for center-to-center separation for parallel tracks? 7"?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Richard
> --
> ==
> Richard Finlayson
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

Re: G1MRA Book Sales

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

OK. thanks re the payment instx! Check is in the mail  :>)  Jim Burns

Keith Taylor wrote:

> On the way, Jim!
> Keith
> - Original Message -
> From: Jim Curry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 2:28 PM
> Subject: Re: G1MRA Book Sales
>
> > To All Interested Parties:
> >
> > As US representative for G1MRA I've had several requests for the G1MRA
> > Locomotive construction books, "Project" and "Dee".  I will place an order
> > for those who want copies.  The charge, including postage to your home is
> as
> > follows:
> > Project book - $12.50
> > Dee book - $12.50
> >
> > Please mail me your order including payment and a full mailing address.  I
> > will put together an order on November 10 for any orders received by that
> > date. I need to due this in bulk orders to absorb bank fees, handling
> > charges, etc.
> >
> > Jim Curry
> > G1MRA - USA
> > PO Box 40
> > Warren, ME 04864
> >
> > Jim Curry
> >
> >
>
>
 

Re: Accucraft Dealers

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Chuck, one is Bob Pennock in Spencer Ohio under name of Cross Creek
Engineering. [EMAIL PROTECTED]/ Jim Burns

"Charles W. Walters" wrote:

> How about some names and phone (or web) info of some dealers who carry
> Accucraft live steamers (C-16's).  Thanks in advance folks!
>
> Chuck
>
> Charles W. Walters, CEO
> Twin Lakes Railway
>  .-.
>  ] [.-.  _ .-.
>."       """| .--`
>   (:--:--:--:--:--:--:-| [___..
>| :  :  :  :  :  :  : [_9_] |'='|.-Twin Lakes-.|
>   /|.|___|'-._.-.___.-._.'|
>  / ||_.--._.--..--._ |---\'-\-/=\-.-/=\-/'/
> /__;^=(==)=(==)(==)=^~^^^ ^^^(-)^(-)^(-)^^
>   ~~~^~~~^~~~^~~~^^~~~^~~~^~~~^~~~^~^^~~~^~~~
>
>
 

Re: Sludge

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

For the record, I did not receive this sludge. JB

Don Baker wrote:

> Anybody else get a rather sad sludge posting from a hardcore porn site yesterday? I 
>usually get 3 or 4
> spam mails a day and have learnt to live with it, and have got used to hitting the 
>Delete button, but this
> one was in a different category. This List is the only US-based list we're on at 
>present and all my
> incoming spam clearly originates in the US.
> Enjoy your N.Hemisphere summer steam-ups!
> Don Baker
> South Africa
>
 

Re: Midwest Steamup

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Wife and I plan on attending. Jim Burns

Don Plasterer wrote:

> How many on the list are planning to attend the MIdwest Steam Up in St Louis
> next month?  I'm planning on being there Thursday night through Sunday.
> Does anyone know how many people in total are expected to attend?
>
> Don
> _
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
 

Re: Aster Mike spring replacement

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Steve, the first time I used it was to shore up all springs on the tender of an
Aster C57. Not on the engine at all. The coupler height was so low as to be
inoperable. I merely suggest that it's a workable solution.As they say, stick 'em
anywhere you want too.  JB

steve wrote:

> Jim,  are you adding the washers to the springs in the rear drivers or to
>   the springs in the trailing truck?
> Thanks, Steve
> Speck
>
> At 10:29 AM 3/29/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> >Steve, you express aversion to my method, but for the record, I use only a
> >small
> >nylon washer, #WN-6, from Small Parts, both above and below the existing
> >spring in
> >a couple Asters with "droop"! I found it both simple and effective. Also
> >inexpensive and easily reversible. Jim Burns
> >
> >steve wrote:
> >
> > >  I have read here and on chat rooms about people changing
> > out the
> > >  springs in the rear driver axle boxes to stiffer ones to reduce the
> > > side to
> > >  side play and to help the Mikado sit level.  Some have found the
> > correct
> > >  replacement springs at Lowes in the Century brand spring
> > assortment pack
> > >  that they sell.  The problem is that no to packs are the same.  I have
> > > looked
> > >  at the 5 Lowes in my area to no avail.  None of the packs that I have
> > > seen
> > >  have the correct springs in them.  I have also read that some mike
> > owners
> > >  have added a smaller spring inside of the existing spring that
> > comes with
> > >  the locomotive.  To me, changing the springs altogether seems like the
> > > best
> > >  way to go.  Is there any Mike owner that has done this modification
> > > and can
> > >  tell the springs that they have used and where to get them, or
> > better yet
> > >  may have two left that I could purchase?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Steve Speck
> > >
> >
>
>
 

Re: Aster Mike spring replacement

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Steve, you express aversion to my method, but for the record, I use only a small
nylon washer, #WN-6, from Small Parts, both above and below the existing spring in
a couple Asters with "droop"! I found it both simple and effective. Also
inexpensive and easily reversible. Jim Burns

steve wrote:

>  I have read here and on chat rooms about people changing out the
>  springs in the rear driver axle boxes to stiffer ones to reduce the
> side to
>  side play and to help the Mikado sit level.  Some have found the correct
>  replacement springs at Lowes in the Century brand spring assortment pack
>  that they sell.  The problem is that no to packs are the same.  I have
> looked
>  at the 5 Lowes in my area to no avail.  None of the packs that I have
> seen
>  have the correct springs in them.  I have also read that some mike owners
>  have added a smaller spring inside of the existing spring that comes with
>  the locomotive.  To me, changing the springs altogether seems like the
> best
>  way to go.  Is there any Mike owner that has done this modification
> and can
>  tell the springs that they have used and where to get them, or better yet
>  may have two left that I could purchase?
> Thanks,
> Steve Speck
>
 

Re: TEST

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

John, a copy of your wire does not go to you. Suggest you send yourself a copy
or look it up in the archives later.

John Simkovich wrote:

> Hello everyone,  I am testing my system to see if this message is going
> through.  It does not seem to be going though.  Would someone please reply
> that I know it is working.
>
> Thank You.
> John
>
 

Re: Dead leg lubricator?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Mike, thank you very much for this lubricator information. Would you
address the hole size more specifically? I'm lucky enough to own several
different steamers, including your 24T and Heisler. Most run without
excessive oil in the chimney exhaust, but, for example, three Aster
Bayern S 2/6's that I have seen run, produce a ring of brown oil and
froth and what seems excessive spray when run. Specifically, then, would
this not be improved by some restriction in the hole size in the
lubricator? Or might it be piston fit or valves?


{My name has been mentioned once or twice in this discussion, so below I
reproduce an FAQ I published some time ago:-

The purpose of the lubricator, (and I include this for those who are new
to
steam locomotives), is to add oil to the steam feed and form a
lubricating
film between the sliding parts of the  cylinders and steam chest.  There
are
two principal types of lubricator used on model steam locomotives.-} 

Re: Characters??

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Speaking of Characters, During a phone call with J. Reshew this AM, during a
futile attempt to find out what color the aprons will be for DH 2002, Jerry says
some DH Character forgot a nice coat, which fits him nicely. If you contact him,
he will, reluctantly give it back. Ah, the excitement of steaming!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> We can live with it Don!!  welcome to the list of Characters,  and there
> are some real ones here
> Salty CC&BW
 

Re: Silver Steel?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Geoff, in the little metal machining that I've done over the last several years, a
test for stainless steel was that it was only slightly magnetic, as opposed to
carbon such as 1019. On that basis, the fact that it is slightly magnetic does not
necessarily mean that your sample won't function as it should. BTW, Virginia sends
her regards.

Geoff Spenceley wrote:

>  Thanks Salty,
>
> Some Aster parts are steel and will rust--as Walt notes-especially in the
> swamp land-(*smirk*). In fact I have had a check ball  rustily
> disintergrate--an error on Aster's part I believe. That is why I am
> suspicious if a magnet can pick the ball up.
>
> Geoff.
>
> In a message dated 01-01-26 13:12:06 EST, you write:
> >
> ><< I note that some Aster S.S. balls for check valves etc can be picked up
> > with a magnet--are they really S.S--will they corrode? >>
> >There are varying compositions to stainless steel some of which are
> >magnetic.  As for the balls on a Aster without knowing the composition of the
> >material it is difficult to say if they would rust.  With the quality that
> >Aster employes in the construct their locomotives I would doubt that they
> >would use any material that would rust.  This would be a question to pose to
> >the manufacturer.
> >Salty
>
>
 

Re: Bassett Lowke Live Steam LMS Mogul

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Trent, go: www.bassett-lowke.com/ See facts and figures. I have one in transit
in Maroon. Can anyone suggest suitable passenger cars for loco? Try:
www.acetrains.com/Try: www.THESIGNALBOX.COM/. Tale a look at ebay u/
"livesteam". Jim Burns

Trent Dowler wrote:

> Hello Mike and list,
>
>   Thanks for the input on the Bassett Lowke. Hope you don't mind, but I really
> want to pick your brain on a few things.
>   What about the detail work? Is it up to today's quality standards? I'm not
> expecting "Aster quality", but am hoping for exceptionally good value for the
> money.
>   How is the engine fired? I read somewhere that they were butane, then only a
> while later was told that they were meths fired. Neither source spoke of whether
> the boiler was internal or externally fired.
>   Does it come with everything needed for running? By that, I mean does it come
> with a displacement lubricator, pressure gauge, sight glass, etc., or do items
> need to be purchased or built to bring it to the typical running configuration
> of most of our steamers?
>   Is the tender an actual working model or simply for show?
>   Any other amenities such as a whistle, hand water feed, or Goodall valve?
>   I haven't been able to find any good pictures or detailed spec sheet on the
> engine. Anyone know of information residing on the web somewhere?
>   Any other information that you or anyone else wishs to share will be much
> appreiciated.
>   Sorry for so many questions, but for some odd reason this particular engine
> sparked a serious interest. My interest usually lie within gauge 1 American
> narrow gauge logging or industrial. Oh well, so much for standardization, huh?
> I'll just call it, "broadening my interest".
>
> Thanks,
> Trent
>
 

Re: Aster Mikado Springs

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Chuck, you know I'm of Scottish decent, but let me tell you that I fixed, to my
satisfaction, anyway, the weak truck springs of an Aster C57 by using some
nylon washers introduced above and below the old springs in order to increase
the lift. It worked for me. Jim Burns

"Charles W. Walters" wrote:

> Has anyone replaced the springs on the Mike?  Mine are very weak and cause
> the Mike to lean slightly left looking forward from the backhead.  I may
> stretch them, but would prefer to replace them.  At least the four rearward
> ones.  That way it would help the slightly leaning backward affect also.
> Your thoughts?
>
> Chuck Walters
> http://home.twcny.rr.com/cnylsrs
>
 

Re: Marklin?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

In looking for Marklin cars, I find that the cars seen in older
catalogs, were very desirable but not available because they seem to
follow a policy of very limited production runs with no repeats. In
other words, the cars are very good quality, rather expensive, but
supply is short. I have even attempted to acquire current model items
and found them to sold out. I run some of their metal "toy" cars behind
an Aster Glaskasten, and it looks OK to me. I believe they could sell
more cars if they'd make 'em.

Gary Lane wrote:

> Didn't Marklin market 1:32 metal trains?
> What I have seen (incredibly few) have been usually stamped metal
> without much detail.
> I have also seen some nicely detailed models. Surfing the net I found
> some sites with Guage 1 Marklin, European sure, but 1:32 I believe.
> Like
> LGB if the demand for their products exists in this scale I would
> expect
> them to eventually manufacture American models.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
 

Re: Unpleasantness at Milleniums End (was wooden ties)

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Excuse me! After a couple days of this thread, did this chat group devote
itself to trains, steam, engines, cars--? With Dr. Strangeglove and others
predicting the end of the world, why try to extend the steam time on your
Ruby or think about the purchase 0f an Aster 2-6-6-6? why drive to DH
through all the dust and desolation? I thought Maxwell Smart had defeated
Chaos and retired. Where are he and Barbara Felton when you need them.
I really don't think that the world will end, because I think Bush will
win. Anybody want to talk politics or religion? How about bulging chats?
Wear a front and back sign saying "the end is near" and show your support!

Trent Dowler wrote:

>   OK, so I thought I understood Chaos Theory just a little. How does it
> tie into the "granola eating tree huggers" comment?
>   Guess I'll take your advice and go do a little research.
>
> Later,
> Trent
>
> Sam Evans wrote:
>
> > Maybe when the prairies turn to dust again, and your grain crops fail
> > you'd wish you'd listened to the tree huggers a little more closely.
> >
> > Clue: Read up on how Chaos Theory was developed by an American
> > weatherman and you may start to get the idea
> >
> > Dan Pantages wrote:
> >  (just don't let the "granola eating tree huggers" find out)
> > >
> > > Dan
>
 

Re: Graham Twin

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Carl, I was advised to start w/ a small opening and open it up if insufficient
oil consumed. Too large a hole is also easily reversible by sticking a piece of
brass wire (of any diameter) into the hole and bend it down and around in the
shape of the letter "D" incompleted. this came from a Guru named Paule! Jim
Burns

"Carl H. Malone O.D." wrote:

> Jerry,
>
> I've got a Graham twin it this Climax made by Keith Manisongreat running
> combo with good power.
> http://www.geocities.com/carlosmalone/climax08.jpg
> I'm currently building a vertical boiler version that uses the twin..
>
> Carl
>
> Carl Malone
> Algerita Botanical Railway
> San Angelo, TX
> http://web2.airmail.net/cmalone/
>
> > What experience does anyone have with the Grahmn Twin? I know some
> > shays/climaxes have ben made using it. What is it's reliability,
> endurance,
> > etc?
> >
> > just wondering,
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> >
> >
>
 

Re: STEAM-UP in Missouri feasable?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Tom, my wife and I would think it is a good idea. We would attend if one were
scheduled that didn't interfere with the two big ones now operating. We did
attend the NSS a couple times, but went due to scheduling convenience with some
trips out of Seattle. We've been to several DH's and would continue to attend
that one always. Be sure and check the steamup calendars for possible conflicts,
and many people would seem to prefer a steamup that did not exactly coincide
with a major holiday. A conflict with the Pa. Lv. Steamers or other established
large steamups would hurt your attendance. If you proceed, thank you for the
effort and call us if We can be of assistance.  Jim Burns- Charlotte,NC

Tom Eaton wrote:

> Hello Listers.
>
> We just had a nice steamup at Larry Herget's house.  During one of the usual
> steamup discussions, one of the guests made the comment that St. Louis would
> be a nice central location for a national steamup.  I thought I would throw
> some of the comments out to this list to see what the rest of you think.
> Briefly, here are some of the questions/concerns which came out of that
> discussion.  Any comments that you have will be greatly appreciated.
> Remember, these are just comments made during a short discussion.
>
> 1.  The Spring National Small Scale Steamup has not been accepted as well as
> was hoped.  One of the reasons may be the California location.  It is a 2 -
> 2 1/2 day or more drive for those of us who live here in the Midwest, longer
> for those on the East coast.  The six or eight days of travel time takes a
> huge chunk of vacation time.  Air travel cuts the size and number of engines
> that can be carried.
>
> 2.  Is another steamup needed, or are the Diamondhead and California
> steamups enough?  Would another steamup compete with Diamondhead or
> California?
>
> 3.  Would the St. Louis area  be a acceptable location?  By this, I mean is
> the drive here within a reasonable time.?
>
> 4.  Would a steamup date in late March or early April (the off season in St.
> Louis) be acceptable?
>
> 5.  To sum it up, would anyone be willing to attend a Steamup in Missouri,
> in the spring, just 3 months after Diamondhead?
>
> Again, remember, these are just comments/concerns brought up during a short
> discussion.  What do you think?
>
> Keep your steam up,
>
> Tom Eaton
>
>
 

Re: Decals/dry transfers

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Jim, look for the very latest Micro-Mark Catalog. They have two diff types
listed and a less expensive "try me" kit with a can of fixer for the ink jet,
which must be coated or it smears. Rec'd mine in last couple days (Catalog).

Jim Curry wrote:

> Hey guys:
>
> I'm planning on doing some lettering for engines and rolling stock.  I've
> seen dry transfer work that looked picture perfect and I have a miniscule
> working knowledge of decals.  I wanted to get some feedback from experienced
> folks on the pros and cons of each type of application.  I plan to apply to
> distressed, painted wood in some applications, ribbed painted wood (box
> cars) ribbed painted plastic, and smooth, painted brass.
>
> Thank you in advance for your advice.
>
> Jim Curry
>
>
 

Re: Steam oil distributors?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Re Neats, for those people living in urban areas, I just thought that you would
appreciate the description of the scene from my farm window. A small herd of
neats, quietly grazing under the cool, restful shade of about ten acres of grits
trees that my wife and I raise on a comercial basis. It brings tears to my eyes!
Jim
Farmer Burns
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> In a message dated 4/26/2000 11:11:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> >  I also got a piece of
> >  scotchbrite and put that on top of the lard in the Tupperware container. I
> >  use it on the table and ways of my milling machine, on the 1917 Seneca
> Falls
> >
> >  Lathe, the band saw table, and the circular saw table in my garage shop. I
> Walt,
> In reading Holtzapffel's books on ornamental turning, he recommends
> "Neatsfoot Oil" for this same purpose. I don't know what a "Neat" is, or how
> big his feet are, but it sounds like a similar product!
> Keith Taylor
 

Re: Brass

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Hey Eric, thanks, but that question was from a Jim Curry! Down South here,
age takes care of the over hard, and We sprinkle Viagra on the stuff that We
want to re- harden:>/.

halfdan wrote:

> Hi, Jim,
> One way to anneal(soften)brass is to heat it to red heat and let it cool.
> One way to harden it is to beat on it or bend it. Cheers, Eric
>
 

Re: Steaming ques...

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

To transfer steam oil from can to bottle:(1)Use 2nd   large hypodermic syringe
for easy transfer.(2)Pour from can to bottle after obtaining wet suit and
boots.

TrotFox wrote:

> Is there a good way to get the steam oil out of the can and into the little
> bottle?  {:/
>
> Trot, the frustrated, fox...  (I wanna play wit my train!)
> --
>
>  TrotFox  \ Always remember,   /\-/\
> AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o o )
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."  >\./<
>
 

Rubys

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Hope this doesn't break the rules to say that Bob Pennock of Crosscreek
Engineering apparently has some in stock. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

Re: Osmotor

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Peter, see review in Steam in the Garden, by Scott E. McDonald re
Cricket:"(oscillating cylinder version also available)". Sept/Oct 1994.

Peter Foley wrote:

> Hi guys,
>
> I saw the posts about the Cricket being built with oscillating cylinders -
> it just doesn't sound right.  Checking some back issues of SITG, it's noted
> as having fixed cylinders/spherical pistons - can someone confirm an
> earlier version built as oscillator?  Not terribly important, I know, but
> curiosity
>
> rta,
>
> pf
 

Re: How good is Alisan Shay?

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Z., I own two of these nice Shays. One I really bot out of sympathy for
an older man who was complaining about people stealing all his stuff!
Things like programs, eye glasses and cameras. Turned out that Geoff
Spenceley had merely misplaced these things! To the matter of burn time,
it is my impression that it is normal and not shorter than other typical
engines. Alcohol fuel, I believe, is not as subject to problems of cool
weather as is gas firing! You can use the proper type water heated
indoors on wife's stove, to get to pressure quicker. The speed is slow
due to gears, but prototypical geared engines all ran slow. It looks
good with several log cars behind it. The gears give it good power, as
they did in real scale. I like mine. Jim Burns

"Z.R. Struzik" wrote:

> Fellow live steamers,
>
> Does anyone of you have any experience with the Aster
> Alisan Shay?
>
> I wonder how difficult it is to steam and to control?
> >From the Netherlands point of view it is also important
> to know how sensitive it is to cold weather.
>
> The boiler is the pot type, and from what I understand
> this is not being used on recent Aster (or anyone else's)
> releases.
> Also its capacity is quite small, 140cc. This probably
> means a rather short running time...
>
> I have no experience at all with methyl fueling but I
> would be willing to try it.
> There is a Shay for sale which has reportedly never been
> steamed yet (in 23 years!!) A good opportunity for
> collectors but I need a well working machine...
>
> Also acquiring it would mean postponing the Aster C&S Mogul
> kit for substantial length of time, so I have to think hard.
>
> Please share your own or recounted opinions!
> Thank you,
> Zbigniew
>
> PS I believe Alishan is a more appropriate spelling of the
> name, see http://www.atmos.ucla.edu/~cwhung/alishan.html
>
 

Re: Ruby superheater

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Just for the record, my Ruby ran fine out of the box. Easily lighted, steam
pop-off in 5 min., run for about 20min. It pulls 12 LGB 2 axle cars easily.
Small "O" ring adjustment stopped small leak. Very noticable is lots of water
through the stack till warmed up.A fantastic value for a nice loco!

VR Bass wrote:

> Clark wrote
> > Boy, that doesn't square with what I've experienced with 5 different
> > Ruby's here in Nevada.  All of them raise steam in 5 minutes or so from
> > cold.  Faster after the first run.  All of them get around 20 minutes of
> > burner time.
>
> Jim, my experience was just about identical to Clark's
> observations.  The run times were remarkably consistent, and the
> time to raise steam was always almost exactly 5 minutes from
> lightup to safety lifting.
>
> Perhaps there's something about the burner in your engine?
>
> -vance-
 

Re: Mamod ...

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Believe Sulphur Springs sells the burner. When the peephole opens, ask for Bob!

VR Bass wrote:

> > Has anyone worked with this option? I'm not in the market for a Welsh
> > engine, but I think a special Santa has it in mind and I'd like some ammo
> > to discourage this talk ... ;-) ...
>
> This is no doubt the one developed by Cheddar for the Brandbright
> "Jane" (and which coincidentally fits the Mamod, too).
>
> I think buying a Mamod just to get the burner might be paying more
> than you have to for the only usable part in the machine (i.e., the
> burner).  You could always drop a Cheddar catalogue on Santa's
> desk.  Or, better, a flyer for the "Ruby", which costs about the same
> as a Mamod, but actually runs under its own power.
>
> -vance-
 

Condensate

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

The first loco I ever owned that addressed this problem was a "Cricket"
which came supplied with a small aluminum tube bent in an upside-down
"U" shape. When you had steam up and started to run, you had this little
tube down the stack and all the discharge was directed away from the
engine. I latter, following somebody's suggestion, got some metal "BX"
shielding cable, used both ends for different stack sizes, and directed
the entire diameter discharge down and away from the engine. Stacks come
in small, medium and even diamond shapes. Using these, you clear the
condensate and then slip the "U" in your pocket.Watch out! They get
hot!Jim Burns
 

Bio/

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

Name: Jim Burns, live Charlotte, NC, retired Stockbroker. For many years in HO,
N, even Z. Found "G" about 5 years ago via inside, around ceiling sparkers
running two rooms thru wall. Didn't know they were available in LS! For many
years enjoyed hobby of metal work and constructed several stationary steam
engines, Displacement oilers, small boilers, etc. Have moved from Unimat to 9"
South Bend and 12" Clausing. Lucky enough to own couple mills, die filers,
shaper, etc.
discovered LS at local club steamup. First impression--What's that loud
whistle?, what's butane?
Downhill from there. Have been Diamondhead past three times, twice to West
Coast Nat'l Steamup. Wife and I travel Northern Va, Florida or anywhere when
poss to enjoy the company of the steaming community.  Own several Asters,
Argyles, Frank S's, Catatonks, Pearse and Roundhouses.Love 'em all and want
more. Have small outdoor track oval, brass, dbl track, LGB and Aristo Wides. Am
a less than serious participant on chat lines on LSOL and SitG. Know several of
you via DH or chatlines.Though I have some large engines, I enjoy smaller
engines and Gears! Prefer butane, still learning alcohol. Have enjoyed the
hobby and the people in it very, very much.
"David M. Cole" wrote:

> At 4:47 PM -0800 11/19/99, Clark B Lord wrote:
> >I am sensing that this list is beginning to come into it's own.  We are
> >beginning to have productive discussions on a wide variety of subjects.
>
> There are now 58 users and it takes about that number to get a momentum
> going. But, we can still use more folks -- tell your friends and neighbors!
>
> And we still need more bios ;-) ...
>
> ---
> Dave Cole
> Daly City, Calif. USA
> List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
> 
>
>
 

Re: And the House Burned to the Ground

[James S. Burns, Jr.]

I. Jim Burns

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> In a message dated 11/18/99 6:45:45 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> <<
>  I second Vance's tirade completely! >>
>
> Ok there is a motion on the floor, and it has been seconded all in favor
>
> Say I
>
> Jeff