Accucraft Ruby Spare Parts
Dan, et al., Accucraft provided the following list of spare parts, and my scribbling on the page indicates that the list is from July 18, 2002. I was quite pleased with the service and turn-around time on my order for parts. AP:20301 Valve - Gas Ruby 1/pkg$8.99 AP:20302 Valve - Steam Ruby 1/pkg $14.99 AP:21101 Safety valve, 80/40psi 1/pkg $5.99 AP:21102 Safety valve, w/ adjustable release $9.99 AP:21151 Pressure Gauge, 80 psi $59.99 AP:21301 Burner (Ruby) $24.95 AP:21351 Jet Nozzle #3 $2.99 AP:21352 Jet Nozzle #4 $1.95 AP:21501 Cylinder set (Ruby) $49.50 AP:21502 Cylinder kit set (Ruby) $99.50 AP:21601 Lubricator (Displacement type) $9.99 AP:21701 Butane gas tank w/ filler valve $49.00 AP:21702 Butane gas filler valve, 1/pkg $4.99 AP:24131 Ruby piston replacement kit, 2/pkg $19.99 AP:24132 Ruby valve replacement kit, 2/pkg $9.99 AP:24133 Ruby valve block replacement kit $24.99 AP:25002 Hex screws, H2x2, 8/pkg $1.49 AP:25003 Hex screws, H2x3, 8/pkg $1.49 AP:25004 Hex screws, H2x4, 8/pkg $1.49 AP:25006 Hex screws, H2x6, 8/pkg $1.49 AP:25101 Set screws, M3x3, 8/pkg $1.99 AP:25102 Set screws, M3x6, 8/pkg $1.99 AP:25801 'O' ring, OD 3/8' [sic], 2/pkg $2.99 AP:25802 'O' ring, OD 3/8' [sic], Ruby oil lub, 4/pkg $1.99 AP:25803 'O' ring, Ruby filler valve, 2/pkg $0.99 AP:25804 'O' ring, Ruby butane valve 4/pkg $1.99 AP:25805 'O' ring, Ruby steam valve 4/pkg $1.99 AP:28201 Steam Oil, 6 oz. $4.25 AP:29101 Screw driver, hex head M2, 1/pkg$3.99 AP:29102 Screw driver, hex head M1.6 $4.99 AP:29201 Pump, Steam Oil Pump$14.99 AP:29202 Syringe 50 ml, water $1.99 AP:29203 Syringe 5 ml, oil$1.49 End of list from Accucraft. The contact telephone number that I have written on the sheet is 510-324-3399. On a related note, the St. Aubin advertisement in the December 2003 issue of _Garden Railways_ on unnumbered page 71 in the very bottom right-hand corner offers the Ruby 1 in "Build It Yourself" kit form for $279.89. Bob Blackson
Roundhouse Steam Oil & More
John, Check the archives for an August 21, 2002, post from Jim Crabb that included a discourse from Chris at Roundhouse regarding Roundhouse steam oil, which was described as a 220 weight. I had been using only Roundhouse steam oil in my Roundhouse/Brandbright locomotive and, after reading the post from Chris, have determined that I will continue that practice. Maybe it's just manufacturer exclusivity propaganda, but what harm can come from using the manufacturer's steam oil in the manufacturer's locomotive? I use Pearse oil in my Pearse locos. For my other locos I carry a bottle of Sulphur Springs steam oil. I have also seen articles that recommend using a heavier steam oil with the AccuCraft "Ruby" and its mutations. Whether Down Under or here in the USA, it takes only a credit card and a telephone call to Pearse and Roundhouse in the UK to get as much steam oil as you want to order, and now that Jim Crabb is in business the latter is available here. Bob Blackson
Re: Micro Torch - which one to choose
I also have the Bernz O Matic ST900 "Lightweight Mini Torch" (bought it from Micro-Mart) and according to the paper that was behind the torch in the bubble wrap, on the back in black lettering with a yellow background, the torch can be used with Mapp gas. The instruction sheet folded into the paper behind the torch states that Mapp gas is not to be used with accessory tips but can be used with the regular burn tip. (I have this "thing" about saving any and all literature that comes packed with things that I buy. Usually the problem is finding the literature when I want it X months or Y years later.) I, too, have found that the Mini Torch, with a hose that allows you to keep the propane tank vertical, solves the problem of a propane torch going out when you tilt the tank to solder with a burner attached directly to the tank, which can be pretty frustrating. Bob Blackson
Ruby Lockup - Help
While running my Ruby with a four-car (Bachmann Big Hauler) consist, the
train went into the tunnel at the club track and did not come out the other
side. I pulled it out by the caboose and immediately shut off the gas as my
first thought was that it had run out of water. I let it cool down while I
ran another train, and I again filled the boiler, lubricator, and gas tank
and lit off. When the pressure gauge showed operating pressure, I opened
the throttle and moved the Johnson bar to forward--nothing--then to
reverse--still nothing, but both times a little water and steam shot from
the stack. I tried pushing it and discovered that the wheels would not
turn. I shut it down, let it cool, picked it up, and tried to move the
wheels. They were locked up tight. There is a little "play" in the piston
valve rods on both sides, and there is a little "play" ("play" is just a
smidgen of movement of maybe a 16th inch) in the piston rod on the fireman's
side. On the engineman's side the rod from the piston will not budge, and
the drive rod from the piston rod to the back driver is locked tight. The
locked up piston is almost at the back end of the stroke--that is the back
driver has the crank pin at the very bottom so that it is 1/4 of a
revolution from the very back of the stroke. There is nothing that was
kicked up from the track jamming the mechanism. Since coming home I have
examined it carefully and have tried again to free it up by trying to turn
the wheels and side rods without success.
What is the best way to unlock the mechanism to minimize damage?
What can I do to prevent this from happening again?
Anything else that I should know or do?
This is the second season for this Ruby, and the only problems that I had
with it were burner related, and I got that under control last year.
Otherwise, it has been a fine runner, very smooth and efficient--until
earlier this evening.
Thanks to all in advance for your help.
Bob Blackson
Pa. Live Steamers.
Re: Cylinder Gaskets
My local Western Auto store sold (it closed last month) gasket paper in .015, .010, and .006 thicknesses. The owner just cut off from a larger sheet as much as I wanted, and I bought one piece about 6" x 12" of each thickness. The .006 feels the closest to a greenback dollar. I doubt that the cost was remarkable, or I would not have bought one piece of each thickness. Bob Blackson
"Building a Steam Loco" by P. Jones
A week or so ago there was a reference on the list to "First Steps in Building a Steam Loco" by Peter Jones. I do not have the original post, but I telephoned Brandbright this morning to order the book. I was told that the book is still available but the Roundhouse slip eccentric used in building the loco is no longer available from Roundhouse. Because the slip eccentric is no longer available, Brandbright has lowered the price to something over a pound. I missed the exact amount, maybe a pound six, but it is less than 2 pounds. The price includes the book and the plans, and I was told that it is still a good introductory book to read for the general information on loco construction. Yes, I ordered one. Bob Blackson
Re: Firebrick cutting tool
Walt Gray--for those 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 8 "bricks," do you have the density factor, such as K23 or K26? Getting the right density factor for optimum wicking performance is more of a problem than what type of material to use for the brick wick. Bob Blackson
Re: Dee & Project Books
The Dee and Project books were delivered here in southeastern Pennsylvania on December 4 with a postmark of November 28. Jim, thanks, again. I have already started to read the Project book, and it may be just what I need, as the Forward or Introduction stated, to get up from the chair and have at it. Bob Blackson
Pickle in vinegar
For the first time I want to paint, rather than Blacken It, a large number of white metal castings (stake pockets primarily) from Ozark. I was told to wash them in Ivory soap and water and to rinse them and to pickle them in vinegar and that no primer would be necessary. When I went to get the vinegar, I found both apple cider vinegar and distilled white vinegar. Which to use? And how long do the castings have to soak or pickle in the vinegar? I have both Polly Scale (water-base) Model Railroad Colors and Floquil (solvent-based) railroad colors, and could use either one. I was also told that I might want to spray the parts with Rust-Oleum's clean metal primer, but I do not want to lose any more detail than necessary. Thanks in advance for any advice. Bob Blackson
Garden Railways Mag
I was looking forward to the December issue of Garden Railways because the previous issue had announced that a new regular column devoted to small scale live steam would debut in the December issue. What a disappointment. The first topic in the column "Raising Steam" (p. 110) is "Radio controlling the Ruby." The column got only one (1) page; two-thirds is text and one-third is two photographs, one of the radio rig and one of the Ruby sans cab with the radio rig in place. While the column discusses the process, it is short on information that is needed to make it relatively simple for readers to benefit from the column. There are no drawings or specs even for thickness of the brass sheet. There are no specific brand names for components used in the project. There are no drawings or specs on the linkages. There is no gauge given for the wire in the antennae. As an encouragement for someone's *first* project in installing radio control on "a popular choice for a first live-steam locomotive" the information is too sparse for a first-timer who has never purchased radio-control equipment let along figuring out how to assemble and install it in the confines of a Ruby cab. It shows that it *can* be done but is too short on drawings to show *how* it is done. Jeff Young writes the column, and the problem seems to be more in the editorial distribution of space than with his know-how. For examples, while the Ruby project got only one page and no drawings whatsoever, the same amount of space, one page (p. 86), was given to "Build a G-scale [just what is G "scale" anyway?] bumper," and three pages (pp. 74-76) were given to an article on using an old radio to cause flickering marker lights, and two-thirds of page 74 is a picture of a caboose with marker lights. I've seen more cabooses with marker lights than I have Ruby locomotives with radio control in the cab. Furthermore this marker article contains manufacturer and part number for the marker lights. The real killer is a two page article on "Quick-and-easy ore cars, Kitbashing for beginners" (pp. 78-79) that includes almost two-thirds of a page devoted to drawings that illustrate how to glue two boards to three boards to get a side that is five-boards high. Again, this article makes reference to specific brand names for the components to be used. Yes, the magazine includes a regular column of musings by Peter Jones and an occasional review of a small-scale live-steam loco, but it's pretty clear that when it comes to dividing up the pages in Garden Railways small scale live steam is at the bottom of the list. Bob Blackson
Sentinel Glitch Buster
I am trying to locate a vendor in the US of A who sells the "Sentinel 1000, Single Channel Glitch Buster, Servo Slow/Reverser" from Airedale Models. I bought my last one from Bob at Rio-Pecos, but he no longer sells this item. It is not listed in the Sulphur Springs on-line catalogue. I would like to buy one in the US to avoid the fuss of the exchange rate for an international payment for such a modest amount. Bob Blackson
PVC and Patio Block Photo
Someone was going to send a photo to Dave to post to the list showing PVC pipe anchored in patio block to support an elevated running track. I have not seen it and have been reading the list closely to be careful not to miss it, but maybe I did. Bob Blackson
Track Sections and paint for PVC
I got a late start on the steaming season this year but am finally ready to begin construction of my first outdoor track and need some advice. I live in Pennsylvania where the summer temperatures go to the 90s and winter temperatures go to zero. I plan to use 20 foot diameter AristoCraft 332 brass track with European ties and Parker #8 turnouts. The plan is essentially an isosceles triangle (one angle with 4 pieces of curve and two angles with 6 pieces each). The two shorter and equal sides are 40 feet long. On these straight sections I could use either eight straight sections of five feet or five sections of eight feet. Which is the better number of track joints for expansion/contraction? The five eight-foot sections for fewer gaps, or the eight five-foot sections for more gaps? This track is for live-steam only; electrical conductivity is not a concern. The only price difference is for the additional number of rail clamps. I am building an elevated track with two-inch PVC 40 (weight?) pipe for the posts. In negotiating for the right-of-way, which runs close to a well tended flower bed, I agreed to paint the "ugly" PVC with Rustoleum Leather Brown that was left from an earlier, metal project. Will Rustoleum adhere well to the PVC, and should I use a primer? Does anyone have experience with paint on PVC that has lasted (I don't want to have to paint this thing regularly)? What is the brand, did you use a primer, what else do I need to know? Any help on the paint will be appreciated because staining the wood and painting the PVC seem to be the places to begin. Thanks in advance, Bob Blackson
BAGRS Valve & Tank
Jun-- I, too, was unable to locate the valve from a PetsMart. I did, however, find a metal double valve by Penn-Plax; the name on the bubble-pack card is "Penn-Plax, Lok-Tite, Brass aquarium gang valve" which I purchased for $5.99 at a large, no-name pet store. The address of Penn-Plax on the card is 720 Stewart Avenue, Garden City, NY 11530 U.S.A. There is no telephone number. The problem is that you may want to fabricate a holder for the gang valve, which snaps out of the plastic holder that is designed to be hung from over a ledge. The catalogue number on the card is V-2 1/2. In working on the BAGRS project loco, I have also found that the Acme fuel tanks are no longer manufactured in brass--everything now is fiberglass or plastic or some such material. I found a dingy hobby shop with very old stock, and the owner dug out a few old Acme brass tanks. I ended up buying a "U-6" and cutting it down to size and then reattaching the end from the piece that I cut off. The "U-1" proved too small. I even had a large shop that specializes in model aircraft try to order for me the one specified in the SitG article, and the shop was unable to locate one even from other shops. If someone has a better fix on the fuel tank, please post to the list because the modified "U-6" is less than satisfactory. Bob Blackson
Distilled Water Deviations
In purchasing distilled water, I always read the label to be certain that it reads "steam distilled." I learned from some colleagues in the sciences that some water sold over the counter as "distilled" is actually only super filtered to a standard that allows it to be sold as "distilled." I realize that this is only "hear say," but I have noticed that not all brands of distilled water label the product as "steam distilled." A second item that I noticed this year is that some brands of distilled water note that the water is "ozonated," or some word to that effect. I didn't buy that brand, and so I can not refer to the label for the correct spelling. What does the ozonated mean, and would affect the ions in the water? If you want to check Ph, the paper strips are not expensive and can be purchased at "science" stores in malls. Bob Blackson
SitG Website OK
After several "Forbidden" experiences, I accessed the SitG website on March 1 at about 9:00 PM Eastern. I had had the same "Forbidden" problem earlier in the day with the Rio Pecos website, but I was able to access it through SitG in the evening. Bob Blackson
Northeast Steam-up
The Pennsylvania Live Steamers sponsors two steam-ups each year, one over the Memorial Day weekend and the other over the Labor Day weekend starting on Friday around noon and continuing into Sunday. There are two permanent tracks, featured in photos in back issues of SitG, and there is usually also at least one portable track. Mike Moore had his portable track there last Labor Day, and at one of the previous meets there was also a portable Gauge O track. The PLS railroad is located at Rahns, Pa., which is on Route 29 near Norristown and Collegeville. These two meets are open to owners of live steam locos from Gauge O to the ride-on size locos and are advertised in both SitG and Live Steam. Food is served on or near the property, and there are numerous motels in the area as well as limited space for campers and tents on the property as well as "job Johnnies" or "porta pots" for the meet, but, alas, no Budweiser Girls. Bob Blackson PLS
Kozo on Silver Soldering
"The Art of Silver Soldering" by Kozo Hiraoka appears on pages 20-27 of the March/April 1996 (Volume 30, Number 2) issue of Live Steam. It is an excellent piece with clear, instructive illustrations. I believe that my earlier post on this article and ordering info should be in the list archives. Bob Blackson
Ruby First Firing
Having seen a number of members' Ruby locos at the Pa. Live Steamers' track, I had told myself that I didn't need another "starter" engine, especially a "look alike" of what was already running. But then the December issue of Garden Railways arrived, and I saw the St. Aubin advertisement listing the Ruby for $339.89. Where else could I get a loco to experiment with for that price? This afternoon it was warm enough here to set up the Black and Decker Work Mate outside and clamp on my adjustable wooden jig for blocking up locos for break-in. Overall, I was quite well pleased with the Ruby's performance on this first day under steam, albeit on blocks. My Ruby is number 937. Some have reported steam oil being packed with their Ruby. No. 937 was not packed with steam oil, but I had plenty on hand for use with my other locos. No. 937 did arrive with two (2) safety valves; I hope that the person who gets the one with two filler plugs will recognize that he or she has two filler plugs and no safety valve ;-). In the sunlight I noticed one blemish, looked like a paint bubble that had broken after the paint dried, near the top of the boiler just in front of the cab. I bought the pressure gauge but decided to run the loco as delivered before adding the gauge. The only anomaly that I noticed in preparing to fire Ruby for the first time was in filling the butane reservoir. I had a couple 2.5 oz canisters of Ronson butane left in my steaming kit and decided to finish them off for the season. When I pressed the first one on the filler valve, the liquid butane started spraying like the tank was full. I tried the second--same result, and so I stopped as soon as it didn't seem to be filling. Next I went to a 6 oz canister of MSR IsoButane and screwed on the filler adapter and went to fill the Ruby, and, again, immediately the liquid butane was spraying as if the tank were full. I suspected that the filler valve was not letting in the gas and so went for my gas filler valve wrench. As I backed the filler valve out of the Ruby's gas reservoir I could hear the butane escaping. The gas had, indeed, gone into the tank, but why I got so much escaping liquid spray is a mystery. Even the little gas tank on my Mamod takes a little time to fill and does not spray liquid butane for a couple minutes. But the Ruby did it immediately. The same thing happened on the next two fills--the liquid butane was spraying heavily all the time it was filling, and it was just a guess when the tank was full. All of my other locos are butane fired, and I am familiar with the mist that occurs while filling, but with the Ruby it sprayed as the other locos do when the butane reservoirs are full. Anyway, I did not take the filler valve all of the way out of the Ruby and just turned it back down into place. Perhaps I should have replaced the stock one with one of the spare filler valves that I have on hand. I did not bother with doing any timing for minutes until the safety started to leak (rather than pop off) or for length of the runs. With two safety valves, one started to wisp steam before the other, and, without the pressure valve, I suspect that the one was wisping at a lower-than-preferred pressure. I also noted an annoying whistle while waiting for the safety to lift, but I was able to eliminate the whistle by reducing the flow of gas to the burner. Once the first safety started to wisp, I opened the regulator and move the Johnson bar forward and backward allowing the Ruby to clear the cylinders on her (its?) own. A little back and forth on the Johnson bar and Ruby was running. I opened the regulator full and adjusted speed with the Johnson bar, running at various speeds and in different directions. The safety, however, continued to wisp throughout the run. On my other locomotives I cut back the gas as soon as a safety lifts, and by running cooler am able to keep the safety closed. However, with Ruby no matter how much I cut back on the gas, the safety would not close. On all three runs, the safety started to wisp before I could get the loco to clear the cylinders on her (its) own, and the safety stayed open for the duration of the run--and I even opened the front of the smoke box so that I could see that I was cutting back the flame as far as I could without it going out. I've already ordered a filler plug from Accucraft, and when it arrives I'll set aside the safety that is wisping first. I must say that for the first day of running I was very pleased with the degree of control of speed with the Johnson bar so that Ruby did run as slowly as could be expected on this first day of break-in, both in forward and reverse. And Ruby, like two of my other locos, seemed more responsive (able to start easier and run more slowly without stalling) running in reverse than forward. I did notice in wiping Ruby down after the run that the smoke stack had come loose and would easily turn in the smokebox--something th
NMRA-type Gauge
Where I bought it I do not recall, but I have a NMRA-type standards gauge made of brass which is close to square. The four sides have tabs or groves as needed for "points," "flangeways," "wheels," and "track." The paper that came with it is marked $10.00, and what I guess is the catalog number on the paper is #19760. This, of course, won't help with couplers, but it is similar in some respects to the brass standards gauges for HO and N. Bob Blackson
Re: Coupler Height
I've just been catching up with the posts on couplers and have just a couple thoughts. One is on price. I checked the Accucraft website and noted the price. At a recent train meet (the kind that caters to electric trains) a dealer had a carton of Bachmann couplers at one dollar each; I bought ten. I've seen them before at such meets at the same price. Second, I've found that a Popsicle stick makes uncoupling quite easy; just slip it in under the coupler and push up on the "button" to pop open the coupler. I've had a few troublesome couplers that would come open, and when it happened more than once, I'd put a little piece of masking tape on the end of the car (I mark my unused cans of butane with a piece of masking tape so that I know that the can without tape is "in use" and so the tape is handy). I then change the coupler when I get home. I have about twenty cars. Two are LGB, and I've replaced the LGB couplers with Bachmann. On the Bachmann cars, I've had to replace no more than six couplers. Bob Blackson
G1MRA Project Book
Salty, The G1MRA project loco book is no longer an automatic benefit of membership; you must purchase it separately. I joined G1MRA because I wanted to sample the journal, but I also expected to receive a project book. When the project book did not arrive, I inquired and was told that members who want one must buy it. I decided not to, but I have been quite pleased with the contents of the journal and find it a better buy that SitG. Bob Blackson
PLS Run Days
Tom Eaton and all, Tom asked about when the Pennsylvania Live Steamers have a "major steamup" each year. The Spring Meet is over the Memorial Day weekend, and running starts around noon on Friday and continues through Sunday. The Fall Meet is over Labor Day weekend, and, again, running starts on Friday about noon and continues to Sunday. For both of those meets this year the PLS track has been supplemented by one member's "portable" track that is, I believe, maybe 25 by 60 with plenty of yards. The permanent track has been pictured in SitG on numerous occasions, and, more recently, the club has just finished additional yard tracks, a new crossover, and a new passing siding. Maybe we can get Ron Brown to run some photos of the expanded permanent track. In addition to these meets, the fourth (not the last) Sunday of each month, April through October, are club "Run Days." June, July, and August are open to the public; the others are "members and guests only." Bring your loco and tell anyone who asks that you are a guest of Bob Blackson, and, I think that I can speak for Phil here, too, and say, or Phil Paskos. We are, of course, always looking for associate members who are welcome on all run days, and associate memberships are $20 payable to PLS, P.O. Box 26202, Collegeville, PA 19426-0202, for which you receive an associate membership card, the newsletter, and a membership directory.The club's website is http://dept.physics.upenn.edu/~www/shop/pls2.html or at least it was that address the last time that I check it. Bob Blackson Pa Live Steamers
My Liberty Belle
I took delivery of my Liberty Belle II on September 20, 1999, yes, 1999. On the same date I telephoned Brandbright's U.S. distributor and ordered an extra accessory part for the loco and also asked how to turn of the chuff-chuff sound only. I have since then, on more than one occasion, reminded that distributor that I am still waiting for the part. As of today, September 20, 2000, I am still waiting for the part. Vance has it right on the problem with the U.S. distributor. On the other hand, when I received notice in late August 1990 that my loco was about to be delivered, I telephoned the UK and spoke directly with Brandbright to order an extra supply of their steam oil and found them most responsive and accommodatiaing. The Dallee Sound system and the RCS system were the two 'bells and whistles" that intrigued me about the Liberty Belle and prompted me to order one. My loco arrived without any instructions for the sound system, which was why I had to telephone the U.S. distributor to ask how to turn off only the chuff-chuff. The distributor agreed to Xerox and send to me a copy of the instructions. When they did not arrive within a reasonable time (and I never did receive a copy from the distributor, and much later I did inform the U.S. distributor that I no longer needed the instructions), I telephoned Dallee, and Dallee volunteered to do the "fix" for me if I brought the tender to them, which I was able to do because Dallee is located within a drive of an hour and a half from my home. When I arrived with the tender, the Dallee folks took care of me immediately, no wait, and also gave me a copy of the instructions for future reference. During my visit, I learned that some of the folks from Dallee enjoy visiting the run days hosted by the Pennsylvania Live Steamers. I have found the RCS system to be a disappointment for a couple reasons. One is that you have to cycle through forward-neutral-reverse, just like an old Lionel e-unit, and if your loco stops far enough away that you can not see the position of the linkage, you can not tell in which position the loco is set because just because you press the button on the controller does not mean every time that the running position of the linkage changes. I also dislike the lack of real responsiveness. I prefer to split my run time between drilling (or switching or shunting) and running. I prefer to begin with a light loco and to make up my train from a yard of cars and then tack on the caboose and during the run to drop off and pick up cars on a variety of passing sidings and spurs, and all of this involves coupling and uncoupling. In spite of practicing for a whole streaming season, I still can not get the Belle to stop *precisely* where I want it to spot a car or make a coupling; usually it stops just short or not soon enough and derails the truck of the car to be coupled, even using the "emergency stop." So just recently I installed a receiver (at an added expense) that runs the two servers from two joy sticks (it took some modification of the transmitter joy sticks) and disconnected the RCS system except for the sound. For my money, with my preference for switching as well as running, I find that my two Pearse locos, the "Switcher" and "Colorado," were much better buys, without question, and the folks at Rio Pecos are a real pleasure to deal with, and when I have requested a part they had it in the mail the same day. In the end, it's a matter of personal preference on how you prefer to "run" you locos, and if that is limited to adjusting the speed and making an occasional "station stop" you may prefer the Belle, which is a fine looking locomotive, and the RCS system with its "bell and whistle." Bob Blackson Pa. Live Steamers
Out-of-date lists
Today I received ssls list #20 with posts dated September 22, 1999. This is not the first time that I have recently received in the year 2000 posts from 1999, and the subject matter indicates that this is not new, current material with the wrong date and year attached but posts from a year ago. What's happening? I'd rather receive no listing until there are new posts rather than old posts that take up bandwidth. Bob Blackson
Z-42 Thread Locker
I have found it impossible to locate locally the 222 Purple Loctite for fasteners #2 to 0.25 inches to be applied before assembly. At a very large hobby shop last evening, I noticed "featured" on the counter by the cash register "Pacer Z-42 Thread Locker" ($2.99 for 5 ml.). The clerks highly recommended it saying that it would hold tight but was also easier to undo that Loctite. I bought a bottle but have not had an occasion to try it yet. This is red, but it is not the 272 Red Loctite. Bob Blackson
Working with metal
Gary, A few years ago Model Railroader (sorry, Vance, but some of us got started in live steam through steam locomotives that did not run on steam) ran a series on building a brass steam engine with more-or- less common tools on the workbench. I had no interest in building that loco, but I found the metal-working and construction techniques very interesting. Sorry that I can not be more precise on the date, and I stopped my subscription two years ago, but you could call Kalmbach, which should have a computerized MR index to locate the issues for you. It was a series, which means that you are looking for more than one issue. These same practices and tricks will work for building with brass in larger scales. Live Steam, March/April 1996, has an excellent article on silver soldering, "The Art of Silver Soldering," pp. 20-27, by Kozo Hiraoka. The catalogue from Sulphur Springs Steam Models has an extensive list of "Books for the Enthusiasts." Bob Blackson
Glitch Buster
Don-- I have the glitch buster from Rio Pecos on both my Pearse "Switcher" and my Pearse "Colorado." The brand name is "Sentinel," but I may have spelled that incorrectly, and it was reviewed in SitG in the last couple years. The glitch buster itself is about 1.25 inches square and 0.25 inches thick. It has two leads, one with a female three-wire socket and the other with a male three-wire plug. The wire is color coded, and each lead is about 3 inches long. The settings for the amount of delay are controlled by DIP switches on the glitch buster itself. As for ease of moving from one loco to another, I suspect that is a matter of personal preference because the glitch busters are interchangeable; you just get one and install it and adjust the amount of delay in relaying the signal to the servo. Personally, I would not care to install it each time that I changed locos. On both of these locos, the glitch buster is "in-line," plugged into the receiver in the tender and then into the stock three-wire section that came with the R/C unit which, in turn, plugs into the loco, giving me plenty of wire with which to work when connecting tender to loco. If seven inches, with only three inches of wire at each end, are enough for you to make the installation and connections easily, you can do it. But considering how much other "bells and whistles" in this hobby cost, I recommend that for your two or three favorite locos you seriously consider dedicated glitch busters with an extra one to be shared by the ones that "also ran." Bob Blackson
Portable Track
Memorial Day weekend is a busy time at the Pennsylvania Live Steamers with more locos and drivers that the club track can accommodate without a long sign-up sheet. To alleviate the problem, Mike Moore offered to use the occasion for the "first run" of his new track purchased from the chap in Florida who advertises portable track frames. Several of us were on hand for the Wednesday "work day" to assemble the track. Mike has used 1/2 inch marine plywood with three coats of epoxy all over it and on the top of each sheet a coat of green paint. He has affixed flanges at the corners on the bottoms of the 8 foot sections into which pieces of pipe adjustable in length can be screwed. The straight sections are 8 feet long and wide enough for six tracks with a distance of 5 inches outside rail to outside rail. Tunrouts are number 8 on the main for crossovers and number 6 in the yards, one yard on each long side. There are, I recall, four 8 foot sections on each side of the oval. The diameter is 20 feet inside diameter, and there are only two tracks on the curved sections. After assembling the track and leveling it, it was clear that the 8 foot sections sagged in the middle. The conclusion of several experienced builders was that the frame from Florida could not support the weight of the marine plywood with legs only at the corners of each section. Extra legs were used to try to prop up the centers of the 8 foot sections. However, it seemed that when we tried to prop up the center the two ends also went up a little and then the entire piece seemed to "hold" the sag, but perhaps not as much. The curved sections with only two tracks posed no sagging problems perhaps because they had only one leg in the middle of each curved section, but the sagging was noticeable on the 8 foot sections after the whole track was leveled at all of the joints. The square channel used for the frame on the 8 foot sections had four going lengthwise evenly spaced--that is one on each outside edge and then two more, one each a third of the way in from the edge, and then there were, I think, two cross pieces, again a third of the way in from each edge. Another PLS member has one of the frames made by the same fellow in Florida, but he has only two circuits, or two tracks, all the way around, and he did not report the same sagging problem, and he was on hand when we assembled Mike's track. These are the frames that were reviewed by Ron Brown in SitG a while back when he built one in his yard in New York. As I recall, Ron's kidney-shaped course was only two tracks wide. Because I want more than two tracks on the elevated track that I would like to build in our yard this summer, I believe that I am going with the design by Harry and Paul Quirk for their portable track--parallel metal studs with pieces of cedar on top at right angles to the length of the metal studs. And now it's time to load my gear into the car and get down to the PLS property to enjoy the Memorial Day steam-up. Bob Blackson Pa Live Steamers
"Light" steam oil
Fox-- Although some maintain that one steam oil is as good as another, regardless of color, if the viscosity is correct, I understand what you are saying. I have the dark molasses steam oil from SSSM, but I also have the lighter (color) variety. I bought some of it from Diamond Enterprises, the folks from whom I bought my Mamod. The number that I have is 1-800-481-1353, and what you are going to get is a very small bottle (30 ccms) for about $5.00. It is accessory number Z 83. The label on the bottle will be Wilesco, and it is the steam oil that they sell for the Mamod and the Wilesco "toy" steam engines. I have also bought a 500 ml bottle direct from Brandbright, Ltd, which they list as their "Thick Steam Oil," Part No. OIL4. At the time that I bought it the price was $6.38 at the exchange rate at that time. I can not give you the shipping because it was with an order for other parts. The 'phone number on their stationery is 01263 588755, and don't forget the time difference between where you are and the UK. Bob Blackson
Quirk Portable Track Corrections
Phil Paskos mentioned the Quirks' portable track. For most of the track, the track is not on plywood. The "roadbed" is made of pieces of cedar. The pieces were "end cuttings" left from another project not related to live steam. So the grain of the wood runs perpendicular to the running rails. Each piece is as long as the track base is wide. At opposite corners, two screws per piece of cedar, a screw is run down into the metal supports. The metal supports are actually metal studs, used in place of 2x4s in some construction jobs. You can buy the metal studs at Home Depot and the like. To make the portable sections, two studs were laid down side by side, as far apart as the track base was to be wide. The cedar pieces were then screwed to the two metal studs. Near the end of each section the cedar pieces are left off until the two metal studs are screwed to the support that sits on the ground. After the metal studs are secure, the end pieces of cedar are screwed onto the top. Then the track is in long sections, and it is placed on top of the cedar and tacked into place with screws. The Pennsylvania Live Steamers' track was set on treated plywood and then treated again with essentially an industrial quality wood preserver. Already there are places where the plywood layers are separateing. As one PLS member concluded, if you lay down plywood you are only laying down problems for the future. I plan to use cedar with a coat of Thompson's or the like on the track that I plan to build in the back yard this summer, essentially following the Quirks' method building on metal studs. When I said above that most of the Quirks' track is on cedar, I used "most" because I'm not sure if the section with the steam-up tracks is cedar or plywood, but the bulk of the track is not on plywood. Bob Blackson
BAGRS Kit--Getting Started (Long)
A couple weeks ago Michael Martin asked for reactions to the BAGRS project loco, and I wrote to him with a couple of my concerns about the BAGRS loco as well as with a request for sources of information for rank beginners in small-scale live steam. Michael responded to me with a most thoughtful and thorough reply, and he suggested that if I found his comments useful I might want to forward them to the list. I am quite pleased to do so and expect that others will profit from his remarks. I should add that the article on silver soldering to which Michael refers is entitled "The Art of Silver Soldering" and is to be found in the March/April 1996 issue of _Live Steam_, and that back issue is still available (as of Feb. 9) and may be ordered by telephoning 800-447-7367. Bob Blackson -- Forwarded message -- Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 21:43:43 -0800 From: Michael Martin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Dr. Robert M Blackson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: BAGRS kit reaction Bob, You bring up several interesting points. Please let it be understood that my rebuttal is not in any way intended to invalidate your observations. In fact, I appreciate your spending the time to elaborate on the reservations you have that may be shared by others. I am concerned that this lack of basic information may still prevent potential live steamers from joining the ranks. I must take the blame for not "spreading the word" better. The Project Engine was designed with the intent of giving people enough confidence to "jump in". The fact is, I never envisioned the world wide attention that the engine seems to have garnered. I am always available at local steamups to help with questions and have spent countless hours helping people learn about running live steam engines (usually by putting them in charge of one of my locos). The following points need to be made clear to any prospective builder of this engine. If you feel that this is of help, feel free to forward this letter to the small scale live steam list. Dr. Robert M Blackson wrote: >My first reaction or opinion regarding the BAGRS project is the need to > have an assembled boiler available. As a rank beginner, and I still am, I > have no experience with silver soldering whatsoever; The boiler that is part of the Midwest kit is designed by the manufacturer to be assembled with ordinary soft solder. The pressure it operates at is about 10 to 15 psi. The temperature at that pressure will not get high enough to be a problem. Any solder available at your local hardware store that has a melting point above 400 degrees fahrenheit will work well. If you would like to avoid the lead fumes, consider one of the many lead free solders made for household plumbing repairs. You may also use "silver bearing solder" which is still a low melting point "soft solder" that contains about 5% silver. It is somewhat stronger than ordinary "plumbing" solder but does not require any special skills or equipment. The liquid flux required is readily available in the same section of the hardware store. I used "Staybrite" brand. You still need plenty of ventilation when working with these kinds of chemicals. Outdoors is ideal. The amount of heat required to successfully solder the boiler in one operation is available from any of the standard multi-purpose propane torches that are available at the hardware store. The key is to thoroughly clean the mating surfaces with medium-fine sandpaper, apply a liberal amount of flux, and avoid playing the flame on the joints. The heat is conducted to the joints quite well by the copper portions of the boiler. (I set the parts up on ordinary bricks that were arranged to support the flue.) The whole assembly must be allowed several minutes to cool before being disturbed. The engine requires considerably more skill to cleanly assemble than does the boiler. That said, it's not all that difficult and is exactly the sort of skill builder that will give you pride and may lead to more advanced projects. > I am not excited about working with cadmium fumes. Neither is OSHA. The vast majority of silver solders no longer contain cadmium. Manufacturers are required by law to disclose the contents of their silver solder alloys. > I doubt that other entry-level people to whom the BAGRS project is directed > have experience in silver soldering, True, yet in many ways it is easier to master than soft soldering. I would encourage you to try your hand at it if you have a chance. (Not on the Project Engine) The temperature requirements are greater of course, but don't let that discourage you from experimenting with small workpieces. You can easily bring small parts up to a dull red heat with a household propane torch. I have a tiny little butane torch that I purchased for under $10 that is ideal for really small jobs where precise
First Loco/BAGRS Kit
Phil P. of Reading referred all hands to Potomac Steam Industries for the BAGRS kit. In mid-August 1998, yes, 1998, I sent to Scott at PSI my check #5800 for $239.00 for the kit with a soldered boiler using the order form from his website. As of mid-January 2000, I am still waiting for the kit, and I know of one other PLS* member who sent Scott an order with his credit card number, and, last I talked to this member, he, too, was still waiting. My check has not yet cleared, and the PLS member told me that his credit card had not yet been debited as of last fall. Scott acknowledged my BAGRS-kit order when I ordered upgrade parts for my Mamod from him. He said that he was having trouble getting the boiler parts from his supplier. I know that the PLS member is above me on the waiting list because he placed his order before I did mine. Bob Blackson *Pennsylvania Live Steamers
Biography
I'm 55 and was raised in a small division-yard town of the Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR) in southwestern Pennsylvania, USA, where my fascination with trains and the PRR began. My father and I as a boy spent many hours watching steam locomotives in the yard and building Lionel layouts from Thanksgiving to Christmas. College, marriage, and children followed. With two young children in 1975 I returned to Lionel at Christmas, and, after moving to a new job in 1981, started an all-year Lionel layout that has grown to fill half of the family room, now that we are empty-nesters. At a train meet (electric trains and railroadiana) in 1995 I heard of a live-steam open-house run-day hosted by the Pennsylvania Live Steamers (PLS). My wife and I went and discovered that these public days occurred three times a year, and we attended most of them over the next two years. Meanwhile, the PLS club advanced from a portable Gauge-1 track to a double track permanent track, and to me small-scale live steam was beginning to look like my next challenge in running trains. In 1998 I joined the PLS and, after serving my probationary year, was admitted by the regular members to full membership this year. I run both at the PLS property and on our 10'x16' deck where I have laid a course of track. My motive power includes a Mamod, a Pearse "Colorado," a Pearse "Switcher," and a Brandbright "Liberty Belle II." Rolling stock for the locos is an assortment of Bachmann "Big Hauler" freight cars that were from "close out" sales listed in train magazines. I am a member of the Gauge 1 Model Railway Association and the Train Collectors Association, which has a small contingent interested in small-scale live steam. I live in southeastern Pennsylvania, in Kutztown, a little more than an hour drive to the PLS club property. I have no specialized shop equipment for live steamers, such as a lathe, drill press, or milling machine, and I have everything to learn about building, such as silver soldering. Next summer I would like to build an elevated track in our back yard. I have a wonderful wife who supports and encourages my various interests in trains. I think that this must cover most of the items that David mentioned in his request for bios from more recent subscribers. Bob Blackson
Fixing Timing on Ruby
Paul, There were numerous complaints about the Ruby running faster in reverse than forward on the Large Scale Live Steam website. Accucraft Trains has posted "fit-it" instructions for adjusting the reversing valve on their website http://www.accucraft.com/pg-manu-rubytech1.htm for those who are having this problem. Bob Blackson
PLS & Newsletters
Joe-- Yes, I'm the one. If you were there Black Friday for the "Turkey Trot" run day, I arrived after you departed and am sorry to have missed you. I have sent the info on this list to Lee suggesting that he might mention it in the next issue of the PLS newsletter. Other subscribers to the list who belong to clubs might consider doing the same. I just happened to stumble across this group when culling a list of "bookmarks" that got too long. Bob Blackson
Mamod Butane Burner
In July 1998 I bought a factory assembled Mamod as my "starter" locomotive as an experiment to see if I would enjoy small scale live steam after talking with a number of members of the Pennsylvania Live Steamers on public run days. I ordered the butane burner kit that was advertised for an extra $99.95 in the magazine ad placed by Diamond Enterprises. Two screws held the pellet tray, and it was replaced with the ceramic burner which had two holes ready to accept the two screws. The butane reservoir was 1 inch in diameter and 2.5 inches high with a regulator valve and fill valve (don't know the exact term) on top for filling with butane. I also upgraded my Mamod with a Goodall valve and a 20 psi safety valve (available from Brandbright and Sulphur Springs), and I did a long break-in by washing/rinsing the inside of the boiler a half dozen times and running the Mamod up on blocks for at least a dozen times starting with only a half glass of water and working up to full glass and using plenty of oil. After the break-in, one fill of the gas reservoir gave me a run of two boilers of water, and occasionally a little more. Unfortunately, the gas reservoir rolled off my workbench and onto the cement floor and damaged the stem and threads. I ordered a new burner kit from Sulphur Springs for $85.00 last December. It is exactly the same as the one received from Diamond Enterprises EXCEPT that the gas reservoir is smaller, only 1.75 inches high. The smaller reservoir has two advantages: first, it is easier to adjust the regulator valve under the cab roof, and second, the butane supply, at least on my loco, runs out just before it is necessary to add water to the boiler. Both butane kits were manufactured by Cheddar, and it may be that the reservoirs now distributed by Diamond Enterprises are the smaller variety like the one from Sulphur Springs. In closing I'd like to put in a good word for Mamods, which I think are sometimes underrated. I've received a number of compliments from folks at the PLS track, runners and visitors, on how smoothly, well, and long my Mamod runs, and I usually run it with two or three cars, and the consist tracks well on Llagas Creek as well as AristoCraft rails. If I had had the problems that I've read about with the early Jane (before the safety- valve glitch was solved), the Bantam, and the Ruby, I really wonder if I would have continued in this hobby--in which I'm still a rank novice. But thanks to my Mamod and the encouragement from PLS members, I've gone on to become a regular member of the Pennsylvania Live Steamers, acquired radio- controlled locos by Pearse and Brandbright, put down a course of track on our deck, and I'm thoroughly enjoying running and learning live steam. Bob Blackson
