Re: oil firing (was firebox Facts!)
Actually, it reminds me of a blowdown muffler I have seen on a few mainline locos. Do the blowdown valves on this loco open out to the sides as per normal? If not they might be piped back to this canister where the noise and velocity of the water can be restricted before letting it fall onto the track through the pink part which would be almost as wide as the rails... Just a thought... it might have been installed to protect the cane..? Really need a photo of it, as opposed to a drawing where the artist could have missed some detail. (no offence intended if you are the artist) Trot, the guessing, fox... On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 17:48:44 -0500, Keith Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > - Original Message - > From: "Vance Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" > Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 4:53 PM > Subject: Re: oil firing (was firebox Facts!) > > > Hey, Keith, > > > > Following your good info about coal ashpans, I was reminded of a > > question I have been unable to answer about the oil-fired model I'm > > building. The thing has a tank under the oil bunker that I took to be > an air > > tank at first. But on closer examination of the plans, there are two > > problems with that: no air pump, and little sliding flaps on the ends > of the > > tank. So, clearly, it's not an air tank. -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: no, the list isn't broken ...
Dave, Wonderful to hear the story of a relaxing time. : ] I just realised that it's been months since I made any steam... I really need to get my Ruby fixed and some track on the ground. ; ] Trot, the untimely, fox... -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Sinsheim Foto quiz
White pass Mikado? Just a guess... Trot, the photo-viewing, fox... ; ] On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 09:54:17 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > some of the photos I shot at the Sinsheim live steam meeting are posted > on his site > > This week's quiz: what loco did I use for the background? ;-) > > Pete > > -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Off Topic
Oh, don't forget that it's good for your skin! Yes, I am joking... but I do know of people who have used it almost as a hand lotion. : / I understand it can be a decent cleaner so long as you clean it off with something else like kerosene? I think I'll just stick to Formula 409. : ] Trot, the rarely sure, fox... On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:21:29 -0500, Keith Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi Geoff! > It's great for that! Just be sure it doesn't get on grandfatheras it > may take care of him too! > Keith > - Original Message - > From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Keith, > > > I use WD40 for weed killer around the track, > >none ever touches my locos or the grandfather > >clock! > > Geoff -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Ruby pony truck
Vance, If you get a responce I'd like to see it myself. I wonder if they have a better way than what I did... Trot, the complex, fox... On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 21:13:32 -0700, Vance Bass <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi, Ruby owners, > > Could I ask one of you who owns a Ruby 2-4-2 and a digital camera to do > me a favor, please? I would like to see how Accucraft attaches their pony > truck under the cab of the loco. If you would be kind enough to shoot a > photo from below and send it to me, I would be most grateful. Thanks! > > best regards, > -Vance- > > Vance Bass > FH&PB Railroad Supply Co. > 6933 Cherry Hills Loop NE > Albuquerque, NM 87111 USA > http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/fhpb/ -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Accucraft SP )^) Colors
oOO I really like the dark blue one... Who wants to get me one for my Birthday? =D Trot, the silly, fox... On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 09:54:11 -0500, Don Plasterer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I found the answer to my own quwstion. You can find the colors of the > various switchers at: > http://www.cryergrayfoundry.com/main/locomotive_060_SP_models.shtml > > Don -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Steam in the garden/online
Paul, They aren't switching servers, they're switching States. The server is in a box making its merry way across half the continent. ; ] Trot, the unworried, fox... On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:35:05 -0800, paul gamlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Does anyone know if Steam in the garden ,online version is back on line > with a different address . I know it was switching servers ? > -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Miscellaneous
Pretty slick Donkey! That's the first time I've ever seen one in motion, miniature or otherwise. : ] Makes me wish I lived in CA... Trot, the steamable, fox... On Fri, 8 Oct 2004 20:13:17 -0700, Henner Meinhold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi, > last Sunday I found my old Mamod covered in dust and I decided to reactivate > it. My son bought it as a kit 15years ago in London and we added a > lubricator and an alcohol burner from Mike Chaney. Somehow it even made it > over the big pond. When I tried to look up the pinout of the servo to > convert the R/C to US standard, the only hit in Google was an Ebay offer > "ancient servo"(Am I getting old ?)... Anyway, after cleaning and making > some new gaskets the beast ran like new, even climbing the 8% grade of my > logging line ! It will eventually get a scratchbuilt ceramic burner. > Now to something completely different: My friend David made a couple of > photos of my finished C_l_i_m_a_x and posted them on his WEB site (Thanks > David!): > http://www.wegmuller.org/trains/friends/index.html > (It takes some time to download all the pictures, if you have a dial-up > connection). I will eventually add CAD drawings of some of the parts like > engine, boiler and some fittings. And by the way, there are some more > goodies on David's site. > Regards > Henner -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a | >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Materials compatibility
As an interesting note, I have noticed the same thing on my R/C Ruby. Johnson bar movements have an immediate response though, I suspect due to the much shorter steam lines affected. No superheat installed on this loco yet so all that line has to be filled/heated when the throttle is adjusted. ;] Trot, the fox who wants _real_ valve gear... On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, JR May wrote: > Tony D: > Fantastic write up. Simply fantastic. I am amazed at how things are the > same from full sized down to Gauge 1. Especially the delay or dwell time > you talk about. Prior to heading into the curve on the smaller full sized > engines we run, you have to give it some throttle or you die in the curve. > The shay is the most instantly reactive, our > 4-4-0T has the longest dwell.The diesels (25ton and 55 ton GE diesel > electrics) are real dogs. Throttle must be provided before hitting the full > impact of the curve or there is a noticeable slow down.I believe this is > due in part to the time it takes for the relays to kick in as the generator > RPMs come up. Very mushy, unless you really give the throttle a pull. > > Great write up. Many thanks. > J.R. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
RE: CA glue
When my kitten was front-declawed a few months ago he came back the next day ready to go with no stiches. The digits had been 'glued' closed and he was fine to walk on them although you could tell it was somewhat uncomfortable to do. Made me wonder if they'd used a CA derivative but since I was working and my wife was not I never got to ask the vet. :] Kitten has since learned to let his teeth take over where the front claws used to penatrate! Trot, the fox with the worlds best, smartest, most intelligent kitten! On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote: > I was conserned that the "No" could be interpreted as "NO!" which it > certainly was not. It was intended as a completly informative "No" with no > empaphsis or strenght in its use. I have just used CA quite often though I > did cringe a bit with the story of glueing the finger back together. > > The other night at dinner our six year old daughter did tell us a story > about her one friend that fell and cracked her head open. She told me she > had to go to the hospital and the doctor glued her head back together. My > wife an I laughed but maybe she really did get her head glued back together. > Kids are fun. > > Steve /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: CA glue
I have used CA on screws and nut-bolt combos to my doom. The thin stuff will make them into one piece. :] Recently I have found that thick CA works well to simply hold a nut in place. I suppose it's due to the fact that the thin CA goes into and locks each thread while the thick stuff just sits at the edge and holds the outside surfaces. This is on 1-72 size fittings. :] Trot, the well-stuck, fox... On Tue, 1 Apr 2003, Royce Woodbury wrote: > Thanks to Bob, Steve, Keith, et al re CA attachment of parts to > mandrels. And speaking of glue, can you use CA the same way you use > loctite ? > > royce /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
I asked about an oil burner for gauge 1 on one of the large'er' scale steam lists and was told that the flame path is too long. I guess it's not possible to get the fuel up to temp fast enough that it will all burn in the firebox? Flames going into the tubes is a no-no due to the soot buildup it causes, as I'm sure Clark has experienced. :] I'm wondering if you couldn't run the fuel supply tube through the flame path just prior to entering the burner. That'd provide a lot of preheat and may allow the fuel to vaporize before needing to be burnt... Sort of like the old Colman stoves. Oh well, not like I'll ever try it. I like my eyebrows right where they are. ;] Trot, the somewhat adventurous, fox... On Mon, 17 Mar 2003, Phil Paskos wrote: > On the 1 and 1-1/2" kerosene burning locos I've seen, they "start" them by > forcing compressed air through the burners to atomize the fuel. This allows > simply lighting them with a long match or a metal rod with some wick > material soaked in kerosene to get the fire burning. This also forces the > draft (drought?) through the engine. Once boiler pressure of about 40 > pounds is reached, the air can be discontinued and they fire on their own. > Should fire be lost while running an old ford coil feeding a spark plug > will reignite them. > > I'll leave it to the imagination of this group to figure out how to do > this on Gauge-1 Locos. I think it could be done. > > Phil P /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Accucraft and Aster surveys
Ya know... that's an angle I hadn't thought of! Makes going bald not so
bad. ;]
Now if only it wasn't all leaving so slowly (going thin all over the top
but not truly bald.)
Isn't 25 too young for serious hair loss? {:]
Trot, the hormone-effected, fox...
On Sun, 16 Mar 2003, FBM Studios wrote:
> I would agree - however I keep track of all the hair salon tallies, and
> since
> I buzz what's left of my hair once a week myself I only see it fair
> that I spend the equivalent on an item of my choice. :-)
> Viva la hairloss:-)
> Cheers Ferdinand
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
>\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Accucraft and Aster surveys
That's about $5! No, I didn't leave out any 0's... };] Trot, the budgeted, fox... On Sun, 16 Mar 2003, Harry Wade wrote: > They already know the answer to that question . . . . MY favorite > locomotive, finely engineered, with detail rendered at or near museum > quality, in the fuel of my choice, for no more money than I can > successfully hide from or explain away to my spouse. :-) > > Regards, > Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
I hope not... I'd have to shun my Ruby!!! Trot, the Insight-driving, fox... ;] > Hmmm ... now I'm eyeing > my gas-fired locos and wondering if they're the equivalent of gas- > guzzling SUVs? Oh, the shame! > > regards, > -vance- /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: O rings - another question
I think I like it! I had thought on this, but not much given the small clearance involved. I was actually considering going with a two-bolt solution that would remove the protusion completely, replacing it with an oval cap that would hold an o-ring against the face of the cyl cover. Using tiny stainless hardware I think it would give good service so long as you don't wail on it while tightening. ;] I also want to eventually have a crosshead guid of some type that works. :] Don't know when that'll get thought about... Trot, the overly-complex, fox... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Landon, > Not a problem, sorry that I didn't make it clear. The gland on the front > cover is just the right size to accept a 3/16 x 40 thread. I imagine I did > mine on my lathe with a die (can't remember), but with some care you can do > it by hand. I made my own gland nut out of 1/4 hex stock. You could also > use a union nut from SSSteam part #FUN-3 and drill it for the piston rod. > You might have to file some of the nut away so that the piston makes it's > full travel. Before you screw the nut in place wrap the rod with graphited > yarn; just a single strand. After I have things set to the non leaking > stage, I have been putting a dab of super glue on the threads to keep it from > loosening. If you go here, I took a picture of mine. Excuse the oil and the > peeling paint, she is undergoing test runs at the moment on the new liquid > butane system which is giving me great long runs. > http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/ruby%20front%20cover.jpg > Bob /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: glitching
Is this the new RCS system that allows use of a cheaper car-type R/C system, or the complete RCS system? I ask because I've never heard of anyone having glitching problems with an RCS system (not that I've been around that much.) Trot, the curious, fox... On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, paul gamlin wrote: > I have had experience with both conventional FM radio control and the RCS > units in my backyard the both do not work .the most likely culprit is > powerlines running and the back of my house this might be the situation with > a lot of people using RC for trains .they mostly located in the back part > of the yard. Powerlines are sometimes strong between property lines. In > both cases I had severe glitching even with the RCS unit, > > Paul /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: glitching
I have an RCS'd battery powered sparky and love it. The only thing bad about it is that I can't afford andother reciever at the moment! The next one I get is going in the Ruby though. ;] Trot, the low-budget, fox... (saving for that backyard layout... I mean house...) On Wed, 12 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > I don't RC my direction control because of glitching. > > Dave - smart man. I've had a few concertina pile-ups of hoppers due to my C-16 > stopping dead on my ground-level layout. I partially solve the problem by turning > off the transmitter, so there aren't any corrupt or marginal signals flying around > to confuse the receiver! > > Have you looked at the RCS version for steam engines? (www.rcs-rc.com) The good news > about r/c designed for railroads is that they use "command control" and only > transmit when needed, so the receiver can more easily distinguish noise from signal. > I think some transmit the command several times, so the receiver has a really easy > time. > > Clem fitted one to a C-16 and says it works as advertised, and there is a review in > SitG this month of a loco with whistle/bell sound effects driven from the RCS > receiver. My electric loco with an RCS has never exhibited any glitching. > > Anyone else had any experience with RCS? /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
RE: ME threads was Dee parts
I'd prefer to have American standard bit used. things I can easily get a hold of here in north Texas. I have built two 'Lady Anne' chassis kits and can't find spare screws for them here in the US. I'm sure any of the dealers can get them for me but so far it's not been a necessity as I can re-tap or nut/bolt things just as easily. ;] Of course, there's no reason you can't just let the builder know what the basic size of the fastener should be so that they can make their own source and use what they like... is there? Trot, the opinionated, fox... :] On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, XXYZ wrote: > Until now I've been ignoring the thread spec on the "American project" > locomotive. It looks like it is a good time to then ask these questions. <> > Ken /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
I can't remember what band it uses but the glitching problem has been solved for the most part. There is now a 1' antenna on the tender made of very thin brass rod. I think the radio is a Futaba 'Attack' three channel... This still doesn't fix the problem which starts with the Ruby though. when I go to reverse, I can't go back forward. ;] Trot, the fox who'll fix it! (one way or the other) On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, FBM Studios wrote: > What radios are you using that would cause glitching. > (FM,AM, not all brands are created equal?) > Cheers Ferd /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: O rings - another question
I don't understand how this would be done simply... Can you elaborate? Trot, the interested, fox... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > In a message dated 3/11/03 9:35:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > << Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses > metal to metal seals. >> > It is pretty simple to thread 3/16 x 40 and use corresponding 1/4 hex nuts. > I wrap graphite yarn in mine, but I still have problems with leaks,; it's > just better. > Bob /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Been there, adjusted that. Found out a _long_ time ago that Ruby's valves are setup poorly. For one, they are set to outside admission when running forward... shouldn't be a big deal except for... Two, the valves are basicly leaky pistons when running outside admission. Due to the fact that the rear face of the valve is outside the block and at atmospheric presure while the front face is at whatever is coming from the throttle. The wider you open her up the more presure is placed on the front face and the worse your timing becomes. Haven't tryed bending the rod, turning the threads always worked fine for me. In reverse (inside admission mode) this is not such a big issue since the front face is open to the exhaust and should be very close to atmosphere while all the presure from the throttle is applied to the middle of the valve giving equal presure to the two (really four) inside faces (made up of the groves in the piston valves.) I have given real consideration to changing my Ruby's piping such that the forward hole would admit steam from the throttle and the rear hole would exhaust up the stack. Change the Johnson bar to exit under the floor and you'd be set. Currently I can't get the loco into forward while the safeties are popping because the high presure leaking past the throttle pushes the reverser valve (which is configured exactly the same as the side valves) so hard that the linkage would rather flex than move the valve forward. A tap with some tool on the rear of the valve is necissary to put it in it's place. :( This is why I say lets go to slide-valves and real valve gear! There's plenty of room on the rear crank for an eccentric link if you give the main-rod some creative S-curving! Haven't checked the piston clearances on this, but I suspect it'd be ok judging from the piston-rod wear I saw when I changed out the first set of piston/cyl covers. :) Maybe one of these days I'll have some photos of my re-valved Ruby to show off. };] Trot, the fox who's full of useless ideas... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Something to check; not sure that this is problem, but. I find my Ruby > valve events change with wear. Trying running it on air and apply gentle > pressure to the valve rod in a forward direction. I have found that setting > the valves in the static state doesn't always work as the pressure and slop > don't work in our favor. My cure has been to gently, key word here, grab the > rod with pliers and bend them toward the valve. Seems to work better than > trying to thread it in, the rod gets sloppy on the threads out at the ends. > Bob /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: O rings - another question
Sure it's quality... just don't _ever_ forget to fill the lubricator! (no,
I don't know that from experience, mine leaks even though I've always
filled the luber. :( ) This is something else I'm going to ask my
lathe-weilding friend if I try making slide valves. Real glands!
Trot, the fox who'll make something work. {:]
On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Clark Lord wrote:
> And here I thought Ruby was a quality entry level engine. You just never know
> what you are getting these days. VBG
>
> Clark
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
>\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Sounds like a good time to make up slide-valves then. :/ I never have cared for the piston-valve reverser anyway. :) Maybe I'll check on the price of th blocks first though... I'd have to enlist the help of a friend with a mill to do the slides and new gear otherwise. Trot, the only _mostly_ crazy, fox... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Dave Hottmann wrote: > I have seen this many times. I think the problem is in the valve bores. > Accucraft lists new ones, don't know if they have them. Only fix would be to > re-bore and make oversize valves. With Ruby piston valving it has to be > PERFECT to work right. Sometimes you get lucky. > > Dave /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Leaking Ruby valves?
Anyone else seen this? Mine seem to be leaking by on one event. I haven't determined which one it is yet but it's definately annoying. I get good power for about half a rev then nothing as the steam goes through the stack and right wanna-be-a-gland. I origionally thought the power loss was all due to the leaking cyl cover, then thought it was a split o-ring (we're talking a lot of steam through the stack) but inspection of the piston/bores show no issues. I've pulled the valves out and they are ok so the only thing I can think of is that something has scored the valve-block bore. Anyone happen to know what these run? Is now a good time to start on that Walschaerts geared slide-valve conversion I've been thinking about? Trot, the frustrated, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: O rings - another question
Just as a note... Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses metal to metal seals. Much to my dismay. :( Trot, the fox who's had 'em apart... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Clark Lord wrote: > I have engines with both O ring rear cylinder covers (Aster Mikado, Frank S, > Ruby) and string packing rear cylinder covers (Aster K4, Schools, Americanized /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Wire Drawing?
Sounds pretty clear to me. :) Steam is 'drawn' through the aperture by the lower ambient atmospheric presure. Trot, the phsyics-al, fox... };] On Wed, 19 Feb 2003, Royce Woodbury wrote: > If I were to throw my two cents in, I would say that the process of > squeezing a big thing through a small hole is, in some circles, called > "drawing". If it's a wire being forced through a smaller hole, then the > wire is "drawn" to form a smaller diameter wire. If it's a fluid (as in > steam), being forced through a small aperture, then the pressure drops, > velocity increases until the energy provided by the pressure is > equalized, resulting in a maximum through put.. It is, in a sense, > "drawn" through the aperture. Well, it was clear when I started this > explanation : ) > > royce in SB > > Arthur S. Cohen wrote: /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Where to use copper or fiber washer?
Interesting note... The Texas State Railroad also uses Teflon tape for boiler fittings. One of the Hostlers noted that the tape made such a difference that he wrote to the manufacturer to let them know how impressed he was. He recieved a somewhat suprised reply back stating how the teflon was not intended or known for working in 'high temp' applications! It was then surmised that the teflon was not contributing to seal so much as it was lubricating the treads enough to allow the pipe-fittings to fully engage where they normally would not. :) Just thought this may prove interesting to someone. :] Trot, the volentary, fox... On Mon, 17 Feb 2003, Mike Chaney wrote: > Art wrote: > > > This 'Teflon Mike' speaking? > > I don't think I've ever been called that, although I do use Teflon tape > (P.T.F.E. in England) extensively for boiler fittings. > > Fibre washers - my experience is that they tend to go soggy and collapse if > allowed to come into contact with water. Copper washers are beyond my shallow > pocket. > > I use Teflon tape wrapped round the threads of the fitting to make the actual > steam/water/oil-tight seal. Where the alignment of the fitting is unimportant > as with, for instance, a safety valve or a banjo bolt, nothing more is needed. > However, where the alignment matters as with, say, a water level gauge, I make > my fittings without the usual flange and continue the thread right up to the > body of the fitting, allowing room for a locknut to be fitted. The fitting may > thus be screwed in as far as is needed and held in alignment whilst the locknut > is tightened. This technique has saved me hours of frustration over the years. > > Mike /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
The capacitive sensor I speak of is a proximity sensor that is supposed to be good for a variety of materials. They are adjustable so you'd set it for water in the glass then ensure it changed states when the water went away. I'm now thinking that there may not be enough water mass in a small sight glass to reliably trigger them though. I can't find any info on their sensitivity. If anyone has a DigiKey Catalog they're in the middle of page 989. They're refered to as 'Capacitive Proximity Sensors' and I've seen them used for detecting empty milk cartons by sensing the liquid level. Trot, the researching, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: engineers 'r' us ... [was: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]]
I might be able to offer advice... What'cha got cookin'? {:]
Trot, the semi-audiophilic, fox...
On Sun, 29 Dec 2002, Dave Cole wrote:
> all hands:
>
> since it's clear that there are lots of people with useful physics
> and engineering info on this list, i pose this question:
>
> is there somebody out there who would like to help me with an
> electronics/audio problem **for my live steam layout** (to keep on
> topic here)? If so, please contact me directly off-list; there's no
> reason to clutter up the list with the to-and-fro of making this
> thing work, but if we do, i'll post a note about what it is i'm
> working on.
>
> thanks.
>
> \dmc
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
>\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: 360 Servo conversion was RE: R/C question
If you're going to go to that amount of trouble you may as well just use a capacitive sensor to detect the actual liquid in the glass. I suspect you could also detect the liquid level optically by depending on the refraction difference of the water though. Trot, the semi-versed, fox... On Tue, 17 Dec 2002, Anthony Dixon wrote: > Hi Trent, > Sounds good. > If you want to go this route. I have seen gas flow meters which > comprise a "floating ball" in a glass tube, which rises or falls according > to flow pressure etc. This would seem an ideal method of activating the > paint ball electronics "eyeball" sensor to activate the water feed pump as > the ball drops with the water level?. > Alternatively, any object floating on the water i.e. polystyrene cube > or sheet could be used as the sensor level eyeball target. > Or the floating plate itself could be hooked to a mechanical arm i.e. > toilet flush water level control, with open/close contact switch to operate > the servo pump or preferably to switch a direct drive water feed pump. > Using the 6-12 volt fuel pumps for re-fueling model planes or cars. (I > think this method may be easier to rig in confined spaces). > Just a thought. > Tony D. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Fn3
On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Kevin Strong wrote: > If Aristo's proposed live steam loco comes in a box marked "LS29," I > will be both amazed and highly pleased. Not because it's a much needed > low-cost standard gauge steamer, but because it shows that they're > demonstrating some commitment to segregating and clarifying their large > scale offerings which by then will be available in _three_ scales - > 1:29, 1:24, and 1:20.3. Interestingly (to me) that box would need to be labeled LS20 as Lewis mentioned on his board that the loco will be a 3'er. I had hoped for a mainline loco, but I will have to continue waiting for that. ;] Trot, the fox who'll end up with an American project yet... };] /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: who's got the bug?
Same here... It's Pine and Eudora for me. {:]
And I've already checked for the virus. I don't have it anyhow.
Trot, the fox who's also seen [EMAIL PROTECTED] in those headers...
On Mon, 2 Dec 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Not me! Don't use Outlook, Don't have Brandbright address. Do have yours
> Bob
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
>\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
