Things to do in San Diego
Hello Everyone, I will have a few days off in San Diego from the 19th through the 24th of February. Does anyone know if the Madel RR museum is worth taking in? Are there any other RR (especially live steam) activities in the area? Hobby shops? Thanks, Mitch Nearhood
Headlight wiring
Hello All, Well, I've been given a lot of good information and advise about wiring the headlight on my Ida when I make my modifications. Thank you all. To summarize: 1. DO NOT USE TEFLON INSULATED WIRE ANYWHERE THERE IS A CHANCE OF FIRE! Teflon gives off toxic fumes when burned. Teflon insulated wire will withstand temperatures around 500 deg F, and seems to be the choice for conducting electricitly when run external to the boiler and smokebox. 2. There are several different options for routing electricity to the headlight. Some do as I thought to do it. Run along the frame, and then through the smokebox (with silicon insulation) to the headlight. Some run a small brass tube with the wiring in it either along the outside of the boiler, or in the handrails. These methods have all been used successfully. 3. There were some other suggestions. I'm not sure how serious some of these were, but since they were all more expense, or more work, I have discounted them. 4. Silicon insulated wire has been used successfully within the smokebox. Silicon insulation is rated at 350 deg F, about 150 deg lower than Teflon, but will not produce toxic fumes if burned. 5. I was advized to check out MsMaster-Carr as a supplier of electrical wire in less than 100 foot lengths. A search of their catalog using the phrase "High Temperature Wire" revealed the following hits (among others): A) Ultra High-Temperature Single-Conductor Wire Great for internal wiring of an oven, this single-conductor wire withstands temperatures up to 842° F. Also called lead wire and Type MG wire, this flexible wire has an insulation of glass-reinforced mica tape covered with a fiberglass braided sleeve. Conductor is stranded, nickel-plated annealed copper. Color is tan. Rated to 600 VAC. UL recognized and CSA certified. Maximum continuous length is 100 ft. Minimum size: AWG20, OD=0.105" B) High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Single-Conductor Wire With a maximum temperature of 302° F, this braidless silicone-insulated wire withstands high heat while maintaining greater flexibility than PVC, PTFE, and other rubber insulated wire. Also known as hook-up wire and appliance and fixture wire, it's perfect for stoves, dryers, and motors. Conductor is stranded, tinned copper. Rated to 600 VAC. Temperature range is -40° to +302° F. UL recognized and CSA certified. Minimum size: AWG18, OD=0.142" The Glass-reinforced mica insulated wire is $1.27 per foot. The Silicaon insulation is only $0.41 per foot. I can get any length of the glass-mica, and the minimum for the silicon is 10 ft. I am tempted to go for option A. Does anyone know of a reason why a wire which is glass-reinforced mica tape covered with a fiberglass braided sleeve should not be used inside my smokebox? Thanks Again, Mitch Nearhood
Source for high temp wire for headlight
Hi All, I want to run electric to my headlight from the RC in my cab. I'll run it on the bottom of the frame, and then up through the smokebox. I've seen Teflon and silicon insulated wire advertised as high temperature tolerant. The problem is, that no one here in Cincinnati carries it in stock. The sources I've found on the Internet want me to buy 100 feet. That's an awful lot of live steam loco headlights. Does anyone know of a source for this wire in smaller lengths? Thanks in advance, Mitch Nearhood
Help with Accucraft Ida mods
Hi All, I've been steaming up my Ida most every weekend. Having lots of fun on my 12 ft x 12 ft raised loop. Now that my shay has arrived, I don't have to rely on my Ida to boil all my water, so I am ready to begin my winter project which is the modification of Ida to a 2-4-2T enclosed cab. I will also be making several performance modifications. My main problem is time. I am not so much skill challenged as I am time challenged. If I have to do all the work myself, my winter project will probably turn into a winter- spring-summer-fall project. I have decided that I would like contract out some of the modification work. Does anyone know of someone who would be willing to do this? I want the burner converted to the "Radiant Poker Burner" type, and I need a couple of copper nipples silver soldered to a stainless steel tube so that I can run the steam pipe thru the flue. Thanks, Mitch Nearhood
Dallas over the holiday
Hi All, I will be taking my family to Dallas over the Thanksgiving holiday. Is there anything steam / railroad related to be seen? Hobby shops, museums, steamups, etc.? Thanks, Mitch Nearhood
Going to Dallas
Hello List, I will be in Dallas Texas with my family for the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. Well, a bit to the east in Greenville, actually. I would appreciate any information on activities associated with small scale live steam going on there during this time. Thanks, Mitch Nearhood
death, taxes & wives (was scale autos)
What happens to my toys after I'm gone is something I have been wondering about. I was thinking I should go through all my "stuff", and make a list of what it's worth, and who should be contacted about disposing of it. Otherwise, my wife would have no idea what to do, or what it is worth. Have any of you gone through and inventoried your toys in such a manner? Is there a "right", or "easy" way to do this? > From: "Clint D" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: scale autos > > yea, that's one thing my wife would not try, she knows i have to die first, > really she is pretty good, but would not have a clue of what was what! > Clint >
Re: New Steamer
Hi Michael, I am the proud owner of an Ida (saddle tank version of the Ruby). It is my first, and so far only, live steamer. In the two months that I have owned it, I have not had any problems. I have steamed it up about 40 times by now, including quite a bit of time on the live steam track at the Garden RR convention. This little loco has done quite a bit to re-enthuse me on the Model RR hobby. I have several local resources for help, and this is important for a first time steamer. I was able to fire the Ida up by myself, and run it on blocks for the first week or two, before I was able to show it off, and gain the help of my local resources who are live steamers. The instructions that come from Accucraft are sufficient. The problems that you may read about with Ruby in the archives have mostly been corrected, and what arrives from the Accucraft dealer will most likely run very well right out of the box. My one suggestion is to order your steam oil at the same time as your Ruby. Otherwise you'll be like me. Have the loco, wanting to fire it up, but unable to because of lack of the proper lubricant. Buy a Ruby, you won't be sorry. Regards, Mitch Nearhood > Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 20:44:01 -0400 > From: "Michael Denning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: New Steamer > > Question for all yous "experienced" water boilers. > Being new to Live Steam and not really rich I wanna seriously get a Ruby for > my first steamer. > I have read various references and comments about the Ruby being "good for > the price you pay" and "OK for a simple inexpensive machine" or comments to > that effect. > Is it reall very quirky and do you have to "work the bugs out"? > And, can a new guy work the bugs out or will I just get frustrated? > All comments welcome. > Thanks > Michael > Florida > USA > > > > -- > > > End of sslivesteam-Digest #885 > > > > - > This digest came from sslivesteam, which is a group discussion list sponsored > by David M. Cole. If you no longer wish to receive these messages, send e-mail > to <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>. > > >
Accucraft shay minimum radius
Hi, I was wondering what the experience is with the minimum radius for the Accucraft Shay. I realize that Accucraft calls for 48 inch radius (8ft diameter) turns. I am hoping to order one of these Shays in the future, but I have one area where I will need to do some major rework to get up to 48 inch radius curves. Has anyone run their shay through about 60 degrees of 36 inch radius (6 ft diameter) turns? Thanks, Mitch nearhood
what is really going on in that steam pipe?
Hello, I have an Accucraft Ida that I want to make some modifications to. But before I get started, I want to make sure that I have at least a basic understanding of what is going on regarding lubricatiors and steam. So, can someone please educate me? 1. Steam travels past my lubricator, where water has already settled, so some oil rises up and moves into the steam pipe. I take it most of this oil is still liquid? So, if it moves through the steam pipe as liquid, then I had better make sure that the steam pipe is always at least slightly angled down toward the cylinders, yes? I realize that the speed & pressure of the steam will also help keep it flowing. Now, if the steam pipe happens to be routed through the flu or firebox (ala superheaters), it still moves, and does not burn (leaving deposites), because it can't vaporize in a pipe full of saturated steam, yes? 2. So, now I'm going to run the loco with air during tests. This is probably a bad idea isn't it? The lubricator has no water to displace the steam oil, and there's no heat to help the oil flow, so aren't my cylinders now running without the benefit of lubrication? 3. In the SiTG article about upgrading the Ruby, the author re-routes the steam pipe through the flu. He recommends silver soldering a sleeve over the cylinder inlet steam pipe and the pipe exiting the flue. He recommends a mechanical connector where the pipe through the flu attaches to the pipe leaving the lubricator, then also silver soldering this joint. Is the silver solder necessary if I already have a mechanical joint? Where can I learn more about Ga1 sized steam pipe fittings? If I get a Sulphur Springs catalog, will all the fittings be listed? Is this enough for me to understand how, where and when to use mechanical connections, and when to just solder a sleeve over the two ends? -thanks-
Ida / Ruby novice questions (long)
Hi, I've been a lurker on this list for over a year now. I come to live steam and 1:20.3 scale from the smaller indoor scales. I finally made the plunge, and I got my first live steamer on Monday. It's an Accucraft Ida. Already have about an hour and a half of steam time on it. They were right when they said that these locos were begging to be customized. I want to turn mine into a 2-4-2T plantation loco like those I've seen numerous plans for in the Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette. This means an enclosed cab, with a pilot on both ends. I also don't have much room, so my loco will have to negotiate tight curves down to 24 inch radius. I've done a fairly extensive internet search and read everything I can about the Ruby. I've also had a subscription to Steam in The Garden for about a year, and ordered any back issues that I know of having something to do with Ruby mods. So now my questions start: I have in mind to make a single unit out of the buffer beams, pilot and leading truck both front and rear. That way the coupler (I use Kadee #1 guage couplers) will stay more centered around those curves. I realize that I'll have to take some off the frame in front, and whatever I build in the rear will have to clear under the cab. In all the modifications I've seen of the Ruby class loco, I've not seen anyone attach the buffer / pilot assmebly to the leading / trailing truck. They always hang the pilot off of the existing frame. Does anyone know of a reason why my idea would not work? An article in SiTG talked about re-routing the steam pipe back through the flue instead of underneath the boiler after it leaves the lubricator. I was wondering what this extra heat does to the steam oil which has now been added to the steam. Will the oil start to build up inside the steam tube? If I convert to a radient burner, is this modification still worth the trouble? How much lagging is enough? I understand how to wrap the boiler, but some have mentioned putting lagging on the backhead of the boiler. I also read how to lag the cylinders. Should the "steam dome" and all exposed steam pipes also be insulated? Do I use the same wool or ceramic material? And if so, how is it attached to something like these small sharply curved parts, or a brass tube? I am pondering if it is worth it to try to modify the decorative saddle tank to actually hold water. I would need an axle pump, and goodall valve, to pump water from the saddle into the boiler, right? I'm wondering if Ida provides enough power to drive the pump and still run well. My alternative is to just fill the saddle with something heavy to increase adhesion. Has anyone done a study to find what the optimal Ida weight is? What is the correct pressure to run this engine at? My Accucraft 30 PSI pressure gauge is constantly venting steam. I've read that the spring in this gauge can be stretched to increase the pressure. Would this also make it less "weepy", or should I just go and get a new 40 PSI replacement gauge from someone like Sulphur Springs? How much heat can a thin insulated copper wire withstand? When I add RC, I want to also power the head & backup lights. How does one run a wire from the batteries in the cab to the headlight without having the plastic insulation on the wire melt all over the inside of the smokebox? Thanks for taking the time to answer a new guys questions. I've been through the archives & hope I'm not asking something that has been answered before. Best Regards, Mitch Nearhood
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - Number 586
Great work Bob. I love the pictures. I think I recognize the pilot and the wooden cab. Where did the tender come from? >Message Number: 1 >Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:46:19 EDT >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: And it should run today > >Finally got a grip on my Ruby conversion and as soon as the days chores are >done, I will be able to run it. Here are a couple of pics. Still have some >finish work to do, it's the kind of thing that is never done. >http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/rbc1.jpg >http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/rbc2.jpg >Bob Starr
Books & magazines
Next novice question: What books / magazines are there out there for those uninitiated into the mysteries of live steam? Good starter books / videos? Best magazines to keep up to date with the hobby? Books / videos for the advanced practicer of steam locomotion? Books / mags / videos on the art of construction? etc.? Thnaks, Mitch Nearhood
Best first live steamer: Further requirements
Boy talk about fast responses and excellent information! Further requirements: Ready to Run - I don't want to be wondering if it's something I did. A kit will be more fun when I get my "steam legs" under me. Approximate scale: 1:20 - I'm into 1:20 electric, so I don't want anything too far out from this.
Best first live steamer: Opinions solicited
I just joined the list because I'm about to finally buy my first live steamer. Lets see now: Requirements: Low cost, Butane fired, easy to use, forgiving to novice, easy / low maintenance (all things are relative), Good instructions, R/C upgradable, currently on the market, US prototype / look. Ruby-Pluses: Excellent cost, Easy to use, Complete instructions. Ruby-Minuses: 20 minute run time, some defects in fuel regulator, some adjustments to the valve gear necessary. Sammie-Pluses: Easy to use, Complete instructions, Reliable, 40 minute run time. Sammie-Minuses: More expensive. What else can you gentlefolk tell me about these? Are my requirements sound? Pluses and Minuses I missed, other locomotives I should consider? Thanks in advance, Mitch
Re: Ruby exhaust pipe mods
Hello live steamers, I am an extreme novice comptemplating which model to buy for my first live steamer, so bear with me. I did however, think I understood the basics of steam engines, so... The purpose of the stack exhaust is to "pull" hot air from the firebox, through the engine, around the boiler and out the smokestack in order to heat the water into steam right? Won't crimping the steam exhaust tube in the stack reduce the pull over the firebox? I mean I'm all for a good plume and a loud chuff, but won't this cause a loss in performance? Or is the draw so great that reducing it significantly (I mean making it swirl must significantly reduct the exit velocity at the stack exit right?) doesn't reduce the airflow? Sorry if this question sounds silly. I only understand this stuff from theory... Thanks, Mitch Nearhood
