Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
J-line FM with very small recievers. All of my radios are stuffed in the cab. Dave - Original Message - From: "FBM Studios" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 10:05 PM Subject: Re: Leaking Ruby valves? > What radios are you using that would cause glitching. > (FM,AM, not all brands are created equal?) > Cheers Ferd > On Tuesday, March 11, 2003, at 11:30 PM, Dave Hottmann wrote: > > > I don't RC my direction control because of glitching. RC throttle only > > with > > one exception, I have a "brake" on my K-27 for 4% down grades. > > > > Always Thinking Too Much > > Dave > > - Original Message - > > From: "Landon Solomon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 8:35 PM > > Subject: Re: Leaking Ruby valves? > > > > > >> Ah, but what do you do when the R/C glitches you into reverse? };] > >> > >> I prefer to be able to perform switching duty with my Ruby. She used > >> to > > do > >> it quite well before she started blowing steam everywhere. As it is > >> I can > >> use the reverser servo to clear the condensate without having to > >> touch the > >> loco. > >> > >> Besides, lots of locomotives that I know had the J-bar go through the > > floor > >> and I've already replaced the cab and floor once. :] > >> > >> Trot, the perticular, fox... > >> > >> At 07:18 PM 3/11/03, Dave Hottmann wrote: > >>> Trot, It's easy to rotate the eccentrics 180 degrees and move the > >>> Johnson > >>> bar pivot to the top where the notches are. Add a spacer to the > >>> spring to > >>> add drag. File the curved slot for the rod. It will stay in forward > >>> all > > day > >>> but can kick out of reverse from the steam pressure. > >>> Always tinkering > >>> Dave > >> > >> > >>/\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, > >> ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a > >>> \_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > >
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
I can't remember what band it uses but the glitching problem has been solved for the most part. There is now a 1' antenna on the tender made of very thin brass rod. I think the radio is a Futaba 'Attack' three channel... This still doesn't fix the problem which starts with the Ruby though. when I go to reverse, I can't go back forward. ;] Trot, the fox who'll fix it! (one way or the other) On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, FBM Studios wrote: > What radios are you using that would cause glitching. > (FM,AM, not all brands are created equal?) > Cheers Ferd /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
What radios are you using that would cause glitching. (FM,AM, not all brands are created equal?) Cheers Ferd On Tuesday, March 11, 2003, at 11:30 PM, Dave Hottmann wrote: I don't RC my direction control because of glitching. RC throttle only with one exception, I have a "brake" on my K-27 for 4% down grades. Always Thinking Too Much Dave - Original Message - From: "Landon Solomon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 8:35 PM Subject: Re: Leaking Ruby valves? Ah, but what do you do when the R/C glitches you into reverse? };] I prefer to be able to perform switching duty with my Ruby. She used to do it quite well before she started blowing steam everywhere. As it is I can use the reverser servo to clear the condensate without having to touch the loco. Besides, lots of locomotives that I know had the J-bar go through the floor and I've already replaced the cab and floor once. :] Trot, the perticular, fox... At 07:18 PM 3/11/03, Dave Hottmann wrote: Trot, It's easy to rotate the eccentrics 180 degrees and move the Johnson bar pivot to the top where the notches are. Add a spacer to the spring to add drag. File the curved slot for the rod. It will stay in forward all day but can kick out of reverse from the steam pressure. Always tinkering Dave /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a \_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
I don't RC my direction control because of glitching. RC throttle only with one exception, I have a "brake" on my K-27 for 4% down grades. Always Thinking Too Much Dave - Original Message - From: "Landon Solomon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 8:35 PM Subject: Re: Leaking Ruby valves? > Ah, but what do you do when the R/C glitches you into reverse? };] > > I prefer to be able to perform switching duty with my Ruby. She used to do > it quite well before she started blowing steam everywhere. As it is I can > use the reverser servo to clear the condensate without having to touch the > loco. > > Besides, lots of locomotives that I know had the J-bar go through the floor > and I've already replaced the cab and floor once. :] > > Trot, the perticular, fox... > > At 07:18 PM 3/11/03, Dave Hottmann wrote: > >Trot, It's easy to rotate the eccentrics 180 degrees and move the Johnson > >bar pivot to the top where the notches are. Add a spacer to the spring to > >add drag. File the curved slot for the rod. It will stay in forward all day > >but can kick out of reverse from the steam pressure. > >Always tinkering > >Dave > > >/\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, > ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a >>\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." > > >
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Ah, but what do you do when the R/C glitches you into reverse? };] I prefer to be able to perform switching duty with my Ruby. She used to do it quite well before she started blowing steam everywhere. As it is I can use the reverser servo to clear the condensate without having to touch the loco. Besides, lots of locomotives that I know had the J-bar go through the floor and I've already replaced the cab and floor once. :] Trot, the perticular, fox... At 07:18 PM 3/11/03, Dave Hottmann wrote: Trot, It's easy to rotate the eccentrics 180 degrees and move the Johnson bar pivot to the top where the notches are. Add a spacer to the spring to add drag. File the curved slot for the rod. It will stay in forward all day but can kick out of reverse from the steam pressure. Always tinkering Dave /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Trot, It's easy to rotate the eccentrics 180 degrees and move the Johnson bar pivot to the top where the notches are. Add a spacer to the spring to add drag. File the curved slot for the rod. It will stay in forward all day but can kick out of reverse from the steam pressure. Always tinkering Dave - Original Message - From: "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 5:37 PM Subject: Re: Leaking Ruby valves? > Been there, adjusted that. Found out a _long_ time ago that Ruby's valves > are setup poorly. For one, they are set to outside admission when running > forward... shouldn't be a big deal except for... Two, the valves are > basicly leaky pistons when running outside admission. Due to the fact > that the rear face of the valve is outside the block and at atmospheric > presure while the front face is at whatever is coming from the throttle. > The wider you open her up the more presure is placed on the front face and > the worse your timing becomes. Haven't tryed bending the rod, turning > the threads always worked fine for me. > > In reverse (inside admission mode) this is not such a big issue since the > front face is open to the exhaust and should be very close to atmosphere > while all the presure from the throttle is applied to the middle of the > valve giving equal presure to the two (really four) inside faces (made up > of the groves in the piston valves.) > > I have given real consideration to changing my Ruby's piping such that the > forward hole would admit steam from the throttle and the rear hole would > exhaust up the stack. Change the Johnson bar to exit under the floor and > you'd be set. Currently I can't get the loco into forward while the > safeties are popping because the high presure leaking past the throttle > pushes the reverser valve (which is configured exactly the same as the > side valves) so hard that the linkage would rather flex than move the > valve forward. A tap with some tool on the rear of the valve is necissary > to put it in it's place. :( > > This is why I say lets go to slide-valves and real valve gear! There's > plenty of room on the rear crank for an eccentric link if you give the > main-rod some creative S-curving! Haven't checked the piston clearances > on this, but I suspect it'd be ok judging from the piston-rod wear I saw > when I changed out the first set of piston/cyl covers. :) > > Maybe one of these days I'll have some photos of my re-valved Ruby to show > off. };] > > Trot, the fox who's full of useless ideas... > > On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Something to check; not sure that this is problem, but. I find my Ruby > > valve events change with wear. Trying running it on air and apply gentle > > pressure to the valve rod in a forward direction. I have found that setting > > the valves in the static state doesn't always work as the pressure and slop > > don't work in our favor. My cure has been to gently, key word here, grab the > > rod with pliers and bend them toward the valve. Seems to work better than > > trying to thread it in, the rod gets sloppy on the threads out at the ends. > > Bob > > > /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, > ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a > >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." > >
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Been there, adjusted that. Found out a _long_ time ago that Ruby's valves are setup poorly. For one, they are set to outside admission when running forward... shouldn't be a big deal except for... Two, the valves are basicly leaky pistons when running outside admission. Due to the fact that the rear face of the valve is outside the block and at atmospheric presure while the front face is at whatever is coming from the throttle. The wider you open her up the more presure is placed on the front face and the worse your timing becomes. Haven't tryed bending the rod, turning the threads always worked fine for me. In reverse (inside admission mode) this is not such a big issue since the front face is open to the exhaust and should be very close to atmosphere while all the presure from the throttle is applied to the middle of the valve giving equal presure to the two (really four) inside faces (made up of the groves in the piston valves.) I have given real consideration to changing my Ruby's piping such that the forward hole would admit steam from the throttle and the rear hole would exhaust up the stack. Change the Johnson bar to exit under the floor and you'd be set. Currently I can't get the loco into forward while the safeties are popping because the high presure leaking past the throttle pushes the reverser valve (which is configured exactly the same as the side valves) so hard that the linkage would rather flex than move the valve forward. A tap with some tool on the rear of the valve is necissary to put it in it's place. :( This is why I say lets go to slide-valves and real valve gear! There's plenty of room on the rear crank for an eccentric link if you give the main-rod some creative S-curving! Haven't checked the piston clearances on this, but I suspect it'd be ok judging from the piston-rod wear I saw when I changed out the first set of piston/cyl covers. :) Maybe one of these days I'll have some photos of my re-valved Ruby to show off. };] Trot, the fox who's full of useless ideas... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Something to check; not sure that this is problem, but. I find my Ruby > valve events change with wear. Trying running it on air and apply gentle > pressure to the valve rod in a forward direction. I have found that setting > the valves in the static state doesn't always work as the pressure and slop > don't work in our favor. My cure has been to gently, key word here, grab the > rod with pliers and bend them toward the valve. Seems to work better than > trying to thread it in, the rod gets sloppy on the threads out at the ends. > Bob /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Something to check; not sure that this is problem, but. I find my Ruby valve events change with wear. Trying running it on air and apply gentle pressure to the valve rod in a forward direction. I have found that setting the valves in the static state doesn't always work as the pressure and slop don't work in our favor. My cure has been to gently, key word here, grab the rod with pliers and bend them toward the valve. Seems to work better than trying to thread it in, the rod gets sloppy on the threads out at the ends. Bob
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Sounds like a good time to make up slide-valves then. :/ I never have cared for the piston-valve reverser anyway. :) Maybe I'll check on the price of th blocks first though... I'd have to enlist the help of a friend with a mill to do the slides and new gear otherwise. Trot, the only _mostly_ crazy, fox... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Dave Hottmann wrote: > I have seen this many times. I think the problem is in the valve bores. > Accucraft lists new ones, don't know if they have them. Only fix would be to > re-bore and make oversize valves. With Ruby piston valving it has to be > PERFECT to work right. Sometimes you get lucky. > > Dave /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
I have seen this many times. I think the problem is in the valve bores. Accucraft lists new ones, don't know if they have them. Only fix would be to re-bore and make oversize valves. With Ruby piston valving it has to be PERFECT to work right. Sometimes you get lucky. Dave - Original Message - From: "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 10:50 AM Subject: Leaking Ruby valves? > Anyone else seen this? Mine seem to be leaking by on one event. I > haven't determined which one it is yet but it's definately annoying. I > get good power for about half a rev then nothing as the steam goes through > the stack and right wanna-be-a-gland. I origionally thought the power > loss was all due to the leaking cyl cover, then thought it was a split > o-ring (we're talking a lot of steam through the stack) but inspection of > the piston/bores show no issues. I've pulled the valves out and they are > ok so the only thing I can think of is that something has scored the > valve-block bore. > > Anyone happen to know what these run? Is now a good time to start on that > Walschaerts geared slide-valve conversion I've been thinking about? > > Trot, the frustrated, fox... > > > /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, > ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a > >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." > >
Leaking Ruby valves?
Anyone else seen this? Mine seem to be leaking by on one event. I haven't determined which one it is yet but it's definately annoying. I get good power for about half a rev then nothing as the steam goes through the stack and right wanna-be-a-gland. I origionally thought the power loss was all due to the leaking cyl cover, then thought it was a split o-ring (we're talking a lot of steam through the stack) but inspection of the piston/bores show no issues. I've pulled the valves out and they are ok so the only thing I can think of is that something has scored the valve-block bore. Anyone happen to know what these run? Is now a good time to start on that Walschaerts geared slide-valve conversion I've been thinking about? Trot, the frustrated, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
