Re: Off Topic
Like usual there always are good uses for those things we think have no good use on earth for. http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,145014,00.html And this qualifies me for a daily double off topic award I believe! Steaming Sparking over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon ~ Gary http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor Unless something's been rained on I don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff. Regards, Harry
Re: Off Topic
- Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a different time, I was a gunsmith. In days of old, Blueing was actually Browning, and was accomplished by promoting rust to the exterior finish of a firearm and then steaming the finish, etc., etc.. On the right firearm (or small cannon) it's a really beautiful finish. Hello Trent, I agree with you and Harry as well! I aside from messing with live steam locomotives, also enjoy working on old clocks. I now won't even look at a clock where the owner got it running again by squirting WD into the works! They will take an old clock that has been in an attic where the temps reach well over 100°F amd cooked the oil into a gummy mess, then without taking it apart to properly clean it, will hose it down with WD. This will make the gears move and the clock will run for a day or two, then as dirt clings to the coating of WD that's been slathered on everywhere, it becomes a grinding paste that laps away the pivot points and enlarges the openings in the movement's plates. As the WD turns to an almost glass hard crust and the clock slows down, they will blithly squirt away with yet more WD. After several treatments like this, they will bring the clock to some poor soul saying how they had restored their treasure heirloom and had it running great. But, it has stopped now, and must need something else to make it go. They know it isn't lack of lubrication, because they've used a quart of WD on it already! Like I said, I won't even look at those clocks, not only because the WD is a bear to remove, but mostly because during the time it was there holding the abrasive grains of dirt and mundge in the bearings, it has worn away the pivot holes so you now cannot locate the center to center distances of the clock's wheels and arbors. Nasty stuff, at least around any sort of precision machinery! Keith
Re: Off Topic
Harry Wade wrote: Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. . . . . although it certainly does displace moisture. Regards, Harry So what does displacement mean ? I'm guessing that it must get between water molecules and whatever the water is in contact with. So how does it do this ? And as another matter, how should such a product perform as opposed to just wiping off the water ? I don't get it. There seems to be some implied rust preventative property that would indicate that the product gets between the iron based substrate and oxides forming at the surface to prevent further rust ? I should point out that my interest is not in it's rust prevention or lubricating properties, but as a release agent capable of getting between glass and vinyl caulking. I have checked the MSDS but some categories such as aliphatic Petroleum Distillates cover a range of hydrocarbons ranging for CH10 to CH50 (numbers are supposed to be subscript for the chemists among us). Not much help if you are trying to understand what's going on at the molecular level. And of course, I wonder how the Club owner discovered that WD40 disolved cocaine ? The best to all. royce
Re: Off Topic
At 06:16 AM 2/10/05 -0800, you wrote: So what does displacement mean ? I'm guessing that it must get between water molecules and whatever the water is in contact with. Royce, That's close enough. So how does it do this? I have no clue. Regards, Harry
Re: Off Topic
After WWII, thousands of German and Japanese long guns found there way to the US as the troops came home. My Dad fashioned a great varmit rifle chambered for .257 Roberts. A local 'old time' gunsmith helped Dad to formulate a blueing salts formula for the gun. I got involved in this. It was the hot boiling bath method and produced a fantastic patina. I don't know how many times we boiled and hand rubbed that piece of steel, but it took weeks to get the finish he wanted. That finish lasted for over 35 years and NEVER had WD on it - only Hoppee's(sp?) There's a big difference between the depth and durability of the 'blue' you get with the cold method versus the hot boiling salts process. Keep your steam up! Mr. Lunkenheimer's associate, Walt - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam sslivesteam@colegroup.com Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 11:17 PM Subject: Re: Off Topic Hello All, I was going to stay out of this conversation, but I second Harry's comments. Bear with me. In a different time, I was a gunsmith. In days of old, Blueing was actually Browning, and was accomplished by promoting rust to the exterior finish of a firearm and then steaming the finish, etc., etc.. On the right firearm (or small cannon) it's a really beautiful finish. When my mentor in the field taught me the process of Browning, he used aerosol type WD-40 to spray the surface. After a short period of time- sometimes within a day or so- rust would start appearing. He said that without the WD-40, the process was prolonged and the rust coverage would not be nearly as uniform. I never doubted him, and never once deviated from the practice. At my job as a gunsmith, I regularly encountered firearms who's owners had used WD-40 on them for *misguided* lubrication obtained from the back of the can, or sometimes in attempt of a quick cleaning. Everything had a gummy, tacky, varnish on it that was very difficult to remove. In my opinion, avoid WD-40 period. I've personally never seen a real use for it. A perfect example of good marketing. If you need a lubricant, use a real lubricant. If you need a cleaner, use a real cleaner. The CRC products are well engineered, as is the STIHL Penetrating Oil. I get the STIHL product from my local chainsaw shop. Later, Trent Quoting Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote: Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce Royce, I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. It has virtually no lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff. I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys Super Lubricant. The best general service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC 3-36 (#03005). Regards, Harry -1wners had used WD-40 on them for *misguided* lubrication obtained from the back of the can, or sometimes in attempt of a quick cleaning. Everything had a gummy, tacky, varnish on it that was very difficult to remove. In my opinion, avoid WD-40 period. I've personally never seen a real use for it. A perfect example of good marketing. If you need a lubricant, use a real lubricant. If you need a cleaner, use a real cleaner. The CRC products are well engineered, as is the STIHL Penetrating Oil. I get the STIHL product from my local chainsaw shop. Later, Trent Quoting Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote: Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce Royce, I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. It has virtually no lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff. I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys Super Lubricant. The best general service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC 3-36 (#03005). Regards, Harry This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
Re: Off Topic
Keith, I use WD40 for weed killer around the track, none ever touches my locos or the grandfather clock! Geoff - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a different time, I was a gunsmith. In days of old, Blueing was actually Browning, and was accomplished by promoting rust to the exterior finish of a firearm and then steaming the finish, etc., etc.. On the right firearm (or small cannon) it's a really beautiful finish. Hello Trent, I agree with you and Harry as well! I aside from messing with live steam locomotives, also enjoy working on old clocks. I now won't even look at a clock where the owner got it running again by squirting WD into the works! They will take an old clock that has been in an attic where the temps reach well over 100°F amd cooked the oil into a gummy mess, then without taking it apart to properly clean it, will hose it down with WD. This will make the gears move and the clock will run for a day or two, then as dirt clings to the coating of WD that's been slathered on everywhere, it becomes a grinding paste that laps away the pivot points and enlarges the openings in the movement's plates. As the WD turns to an almost glass hard crust and the clock slows down, they will blithly squirt away with yet more WD. After several treatments like this, they will bring the clock to some poor soul saying how they had restored their treasure heirloom and had it running great. But, it has stopped now, and must need something else to make it go. They know it isn't lack of lubrication, because they've used a quart of WD on it already! Like I said, I won't even look at those clocks, not only because the WD is a bear to remove, but mostly because during the time it was there holding the abrasive grains of dirt and mundge in the bearings, it has worn away the pivot holes so you now cannot locate the center to center distances of the clock's wheels and arbors. Nasty stuff, at least around any sort of precision machinery! Keith
Re: Off Topic
Well, I guess from previous remarks it does not mean removes grit, grime, and muck. ~ Gary | At 06:16 AM 2/10/05 -0800, you wrote: | So what does displacement mean ? I'm guessing that it must get | between water molecules and whatever the water is in contact with. | | Royce, | That's close enough. | | So how does it do this? | |I have no clue. | | Regards, | Harry |
Re: Off Topic
Hi Geoff! It's great for that! Just be sure it doesn't get on grandfatheras it may take care of him too! Keith - Original Message - From: Geoff Spenceley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam sslivesteam@colegroup.com Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2005 12:03 PM Subject: Re: Off Topic Keith, I use WD40 for weed killer around the track, none ever touches my locos or the grandfather clock! Geoff - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a different time, I was a gunsmith. In days of old, Blueing was actually Browning, and was accomplished by promoting rust to the exterior finish of a firearm and then steaming the finish, etc., etc.. On the right firearm (or small cannon) it's a really beautiful finish. Hello Trent, I agree with you and Harry as well! I aside from messing with live steam locomotives, also enjoy working on old clocks. I now won't even look at a clock where the owner got it running again by squirting WD into the works! They will take an old clock that has been in an attic where the temps reach well over 100°F amd cooked the oil into a gummy mess, then without taking it apart to properly clean it, will hose it down with WD. This will make the gears move and the clock will run for a day or two, then as dirt clings to the coating of WD that's been slathered on everywhere, it becomes a grinding paste that laps away the pivot points and enlarges the openings in the movement's plates. As the WD turns to an almost glass hard crust and the clock slows down, they will blithly squirt away with yet more WD. After several treatments like this, they will bring the clock to some poor soul saying how they had restored their treasure heirloom and had it running great. But, it has stopped now, and must need something else to make it go. They know it isn't lack of lubrication, because they've used a quart of WD on it already! Like I said, I won't even look at those clocks, not only because the WD is a bear to remove, but mostly because during the time it was there holding the abrasive grains of dirt and mundge in the bearings, it has worn away the pivot holes so you now cannot locate the center to center distances of the clock's wheels and arbors. Nasty stuff, at least around any sort of precision machinery! Keith
Re: Off Topic
Oh, don't forget that it's good for your skin! Yes, I am joking... but I do know of people who have used it almost as a hand lotion. : / I understand it can be a decent cleaner so long as you clean it off with something else like kerosene? I think I'll just stick to Formula 409. : ] Trot, the rarely sure, fox... On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:21:29 -0500, Keith Taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Geoff! It's great for that! Just be sure it doesn't get on grandfatheras it may take care of him too! Keith - Original Message - From: Geoff Spenceley [EMAIL PROTECTED] Keith, I use WD40 for weed killer around the track, none ever touches my locos or the grandfather clock! Geoff -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Off Topic
At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote: Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce Royce, I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. It has virtually no lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff. I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys Super Lubricant. The best general service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC 3-36 (#03005). Regards, Harry
RE: Off Topic
Don't know what's in WD40 but I buy it by the gallon.. great stuff, right up there with Duct Tape. Daniel J. McGrath From: Royce Woodbury [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: sslivesteam@colegroup.com To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam sslivesteam@colegroup.com Subject: Off Topic Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 13:36:40 -0800 Hi folks. This may be off topic, but since it's been so slow, I thought maybe it wouldn't be objectionable. Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? Specifically, I'm interested in the property that causes tape adhesive to release from whatever it's stuck to. royce
Re: Off Topic
Royce, There are MSDS at wd40.com Mike Eorgoff -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.6 - Release Date: 2/7/2005
Re: Off Topic
Hello All, I was going to stay out of this conversation, but I second Harry's comments. Bear with me. In a different time, I was a gunsmith. In days of old, Blueing was actually Browning, and was accomplished by promoting rust to the exterior finish of a firearm and then steaming the finish, etc., etc.. On the right firearm (or small cannon) it's a really beautiful finish. When my mentor in the field taught me the process of Browning, he used aerosol type WD-40 to spray the surface. After a short period of time- sometimes within a day or so- rust would start appearing. He said that without the WD-40, the process was prolonged and the rust coverage would not be nearly as uniform. I never doubted him, and never once deviated from the practice. At my job as a gunsmith, I regularly encountered firearms who's owners had used WD-40 on them for *misguided* lubrication obtained from the back of the can, or sometimes in attempt of a quick cleaning. Everything had a gummy, tacky, varnish on it that was very difficult to remove. In my opinion, avoid WD-40 period. I've personally never seen a real use for it. A perfect example of good marketing. If you need a lubricant, use a real lubricant. If you need a cleaner, use a real cleaner. The CRC products are well engineered, as is the STIHL Penetrating Oil. I get the STIHL product from my local chainsaw shop. Later, Trent Quoting Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote: Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce Royce, I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. It has virtually no lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff. I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys Super Lubricant. The best general service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC 3-36 (#03005). Regards, Harry -1wners had used WD-40 on them for *misguided* lubrication obtained from the back of the can, or sometimes in attempt of a quick cleaning. Everything had a gummy, tacky, varnish on it that was very difficult to remove. In my opinion, avoid WD-40 period. I've personally never seen a real use for it. A perfect example of good marketing. If you need a lubricant, use a real lubricant. If you need a cleaner, use a real cleaner. The CRC products are well engineered, as is the STIHL Penetrating Oil. I get the STIHL product from my local chainsaw shop. Later, Trent Quoting Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote: Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce Royce, I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. It has virtually no lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff. I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys Super Lubricant. The best general service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC 3-36 (#03005). Regards, Harry This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
Re: Off topic: Hamster-Powered Night Light
jeffrey Williams wrote: Live steamers aren't the only maniac tinkerers in the world! http://www.otherpower.com/hamster.html Amazing--we need about 4 billion hamsters in California--if the animal rights people don't get there first! Geoff.
Re: off-topic; on-topic ...
Dear mom and all, I signed onto this list, oh, a couple of months ago, and just want to say that it has been immensely helpful to me. Just four months ago I knew nothing about model railroading but was intrigued with the idea of a live steam loco train running in my garden. Thanks in large part to the on-list and off-list help of all of you, my Roundhouse Sammie is ordered, I'm attending the Queen Mary show to learn more, and I'm ready to buy my track, a lot of track, and I'm happily building rolling stock. All I have to do is move 20 tons of dirt in the backyard (funny, no one mentioned that). Thanks to all of you. Be of Good Cheer, Don + Fr Donald O. Cram Brandywine Railway Navigation Company SM32, Fn3 and G Scales, Live Steam and Electric Rio Rancho, New Mexico, USA Wednesday, May 16, 2001 at 10:41:52 AM Mountain Time
Re: off-topic; on-topic ...
Don, I am just now completing my first track. The one thing that I learned more than anything about laying track is this: DON'T BE AFRAID TO MESS UP!! If you put something in the wrong place, just cover it up and try again. It is all part of the learning curve. Speaking of curves, steamers don't like anything less than the 16000 series curves, and they don't like grades. Keep it level, and keep your curves as wide as possible. Have fun. Jess
Re: off-topic; on-topic ...
In a message dated 5/16/01 9:44:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: my Roundhouse Sammie is ordered, I'm attending the Queen Mary Be sure to bring it with you and run on my portable track!! Bob
