Ruby boiler reinstall
My thanks to all who replied to my query. Many useful tips for "next time". Cheers, Walt Gray Oakville, ON
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
In a message dated 01-03-17 09:45:45 EST, you write: << Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. >> Been there, done that!! there is no easy way to put those little #%$&*$ screws back in. First I made some small wrenches using metric allen head screws. Then I bought two sets of metric wrenches from Sulphur Springs, they helped but it is still a lot of trouble to get them back in especially when you wrap the smoke box and boiler with brass sheet as I did. Salty
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Thanks yes an allen head. Cheers Ferdinand (much easier for me to photograph the item than to describe it ) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > You do mean allen head don't you? > > Trot, the detailed, fox... > > On Sat, 17 Mar 2001, Ferdinand wrote: > > > The 3 mm wrench was a problem - I just ordered 1 from a hobby store in TO that > > carries Marklin trains - they make a 3 mm wrench that sells for a whole $3.00. > > > > In the short term a hex head bolt that requires a 3 mm hex key works great. > > Ferdinand > > /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, > ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a > >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." >
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
You do mean allen head don't you? Trot, the detailed, fox... On Sat, 17 Mar 2001, Ferdinand wrote: > The 3 mm wrench was a problem - I just ordered 1 from a hobby store in TO that > carries Marklin trains - they make a 3 mm wrench that sells for a whole $3.00. > > In the short term a hex head bolt that requires a 3 mm hex key works great. > Ferdinand /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Might also try Poly Grip denture adhesive. I keep a tube in my tool box at work for holding the wires during a three wire measurement of threads. Just a thought. Later, Trent Gamlin wrote: > like a very sticky bees wax called OVERTONS wonder wax Af you dab a small > amount of this > on the end of your finger you can hold nuts screws etc. till you can put the > other device on the other end
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Walt Gray, One trick I've used is to cut the first few threads from the bolt with a lathe or grinder and then use the threadless tip of the bolt as a starting pilot for the nut or mating part. Obviously the bolt will need to be long enough to allow threads to remain for fastening after removing the first few threads. This "trick" usually helps in super tight places. If there are no threads in the holes of the smoke box and saddle, try using a piece of brass rod to help align the holes. Just be easy since the copper boiler on the Ruby might be a little thin to withstand a lot of twisting and prying without distorting the holes. The rod could also be used from the inside out if need be. Threads in the holes might be damaged with this method if they exist. Certainly start all the bolts before tightening any of them. Similar to Clark's early suggestion of using small (appropriately sized) socket head bolts to use as wrenches for small bolts, John Garrett made a wrench from a set screw (grub screw) with a piece of rod brazed onto the side for a wrench similar to a box end wrench. I certainly cannot take any credit for this information. Thanks are in order to both Clark Lord and John Garrett. Hope you find it useful. Later, Trent Walt Gray wrote: > Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. > Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded > holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any > "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest?
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
at one time tied fly's for fishing o used a substance that was like a very sticky bees wax called OVERTONS wonder wax Af you dab a small amount of this on the end of your finger you can hold nuts screws etc. till you can put the other device on the other end Charles Brumbelow wrote: > Holding nuts in place with a dab of heavy grease sometimes works . . . > > > Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. > > Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded > > holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any > > "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest? > >
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Holding nuts in place with a dab of heavy grease sometimes works . . . > Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. > Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded > holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any > "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest?
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
The 3 mm wrench was a problem - I just ordered 1 from a hobby store in TO that carries Marklin trains - they make a 3 mm wrench that sells for a whole $3.00. In the short term a hex head bolt that requires a 3 mm hex key works great. Ferdinand [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Kevin, > PLEASE tell me how you made a BOX end 3mm wrench with cut off or grinding > wheels. Open end I can understand, but box end I can't imagine. Maybe I'm > having another of those infamous 'brain fa&ts' that those of us in the golden > years are prone to have. > Keep your steam up! > Walt
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Kevin, PLEASE tell me how you made a BOX end 3mm wrench with cut off or grinding wheels. Open end I can understand, but box end I can't imagine. Maybe I'm having another of those infamous 'brain fa&ts' that those of us in the golden years are prone to have. Keep your steam up! Walt
How to remove RUBY boiler (WAS: Ruby boiler reinstall)
Your timely post prevented me from doing a few things I feared I'd regret later. (I have a knack for overlooking the obvious!) I am just now dismantling my Ruby to try adding a Super Heater. After removing the bolts holding the saddle to the smoke box and getting everything apart, it looks like an easier way would be thus: = = = Uncouple the gas and steam lines from the backhead at the unions. Remove the front pilot. Undo the front mounting plate (What the pilot attached to) bolts on either side. Undo the two bolts holding the saddle to the frame on the front. Now the semi-tricky part: Undo the two bolts holding the saddle to the frame on the rear of the saddle. (A socket driver can be used with only a little deflection from 90. This will likely be the hard part to reverse as well.) NOTE: If you have anything over your discharge tube be sure to unscrew it first! The saddle seat is notched to go around the discharge tube. Finally unscrew the rear boiler mounting bolt under the cab. = = = What I suggest to you is to undo the whole saddle as above, re-attach it to the boiler FIRST, then attach the whole kit & caboodle to the frame. (It makes it easier to remount the boiler bolts if you take off the saddle facade first. If you don't have the correct nut-driver GET ONE. AccuCraft sells them, you could probably find them at any good hobby, craft or hardware store. (It doesn't have to be a TRAIN hobby store. RC cars and the like would also use such tools.) I got mine from AccuCraft, but my best guess is it is a 3 mm head. If you can find a similar sized open end and/or box end wrench, grab it too! Walt Gray wrote: > Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. > Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded > holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any > "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest? > > Cheers, > Walt Gray > Oakville, ON If you don't mind, why did you have the boiler off? I'm afraid what I wanted to do to add the super heater will be more than I expected any I'm looking for hints. . .
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
Try making a 3mm "box end wrench" to hold the nuts in place. I made mine by taking a cut-off wheel to the end of a piece of 1/16" x1/4" brass strip. Worked great. The other thing - start all of them loose until you get all the screws and bolts threaded through the holes. Then go back and tighten each one. It's still tedious, but... Later, K
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
I used hex bolts ( 3mm hex key size ). The 1/2 inch bolts are just large enough to get your fingers around without getting in the way, used them as tiny wrenches. I also locked them into a mini locking vise grip at a 90 degree angle - made it easier to work with. Hope this helps. Ferd Walt Gray wrote: > Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. > Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded > holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any > "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest? > > Cheers, > Walt Gray > Oakville, ON >
Ruby boiler reinstall
Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any "tricks of the trade" someone can suggest? Cheers, Walt Gray Oakville, ON
