reply-style
Dear subscribers of the sundial mailing list, again the reply-style is the subject of my message: Please consider each time you reply to a message in this list whether it is intended to the complete audience of the sundial mailing list or if it is more suitable to reply only to one person. Thank you! Regards - - Daniel Roth, sundial mailing list N.B. To change your e-mail address for the subscription, send from your old address to [EMAIL PROTECTED]: unsubscribe sundial And from your new address: subscribe sundial (each time in the body of the message; subject doesn't matter) -
spherical gnomon
I am interested in making a garden version of the the columbia dial which used a sphere as the gnomon. Can anyone tell me where I can find some info on laying out a dial of this type? Also, what is this type of dial called? Any help would be appreciated. VW
Re: spherical gnomon
> vince and darcy winskunas wrote: > > I am interested in making a garden version of the the columbia dial > which used a sphere as the gnomon. Can anyone tell me where I can find > some info on laying out a dial of this type? Also, what is this type > of dial called? Any help would be appreciated. > > VW Vince, I've included below earlier postings to the list regarding the Columbia "SunBall" sundial, I hope you find them helpful, however, if you would like further information you can contact me. Regards, Luke Coletti On Tue, 02 Apr 2002, Luke Coletti wrote: > > Hello Frans, > > Yes, I know a bit about the Univ. of Columbia "SunBall" sundial. First > its operation was that of a standard time noon marker and date > indicator. It was not used to tell the time, other than standard local > noon. Functionally, the sphere's elliptical shadow projected onto two > symmetrical plates at its base (placed east and west) and indicated the > approx. date (marked in increments of 5 days). When the shadow indicated > the correct date, on both plates, it was standard local noon. The date > plates and base are still there. The missing sphere was made of granite, > was 7 feet in diameter and weighed 15 tons! The sphere was installed in > 1912 and was removed (due to its deteriorating condition - crack(s)) in > 1947. > > I've been there and taken photos (of the surviving pieces) and I have > quite a bit of info that I collected on it from the New York Historical > Society and other sources. It's an amazing concept and is unique as far > as I know. I've made a replicate using an 8 inch glass sphere and if > anyone is interested in having one made please feel free to contact me. > > In addition, I would urge all those interested to make the case for a > replacement gnomon (sphere) to be installed per John Schilke's forwarded > e-mail. I believe the resistance thus far concerns the issue of it being > an exact replicate (and a solid 15 ton granite gnomon does indeed > present issues) and if it's not then it isn't worth doing. I think a > hollow bronze shell with granite inlay would be nice... > > Regards, > > Luke > > "F.W.Maes" wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > That is (was!) quite an impressive sphere, at: > > http://www.morningside-heights.net/sundial.htm > > > > Does anyone know how it works? > > I wonder how the dial face is laid out. > > > > Regards, Frans > > > > > From: Ian Fletcher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 3:22 AM > > > Subject: Sundial E-Mail Protest > > > > > > > > > > Dear Dr. Schilke: > > > > > > > > Can you send out the following message to whatever mailing list you > > > > have? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ian Fletcher > > > > > > > > Dear Sundial-fan: > > > > > > > > At the center of Columbia University's historic campus is a giant broken > > > > sundial. This sundial is missing the huge stone sphere that casts its > > > > shadow (see http://www.morningside-heights.net for a picture). Columbia > > > was > > > > recently given the opportunity to replace it at a reasonable price but > > > > decided not to. I urge you to protest this decision to University > > > Architect > > > > Irwin Lefkowitz ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) and Vice-President Emily Lloyd > > > > ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). > > > > > > > > Respectfully, > > > > Ian Fletcher > > > > > > > > > - > > > > = > > Frans W. Maes > > Peize, The Netherlands > > 53.1 N, 6.5 E > > www.biol.rug.nl/maes/sundials/ > > = -
Re: spherical gnomon
Vince, >I am interested in making a garden version of the the columbia dial which >used a sphere as the gnomon. Can anyone tell me where I can find some info >on laying out a dial of this type? Also, what is this type of dial called? >Any help would be appreciated. > Is the sphere the actual 'dial' rather than the just a gnomon? I did some work on one such recently and will happily compare notes. Tony Moss -
Sundial photo shoot
Hello All, I am taking some documentary photographs of a new sundial concept and I need a little help. I recall reading several postings in the past that referred to using a point light source to simulate the sun. This would be very helpful in simulating conditions such as solstice and equinox declination, as well as any desired time of day. Accomplishing these various conditions outdoors is proving very difficult (and hot!), so I would like to set up an indoor photo shoot with a common backdrop. This way I hope to create the ideal times and declinations for my instruction sheets. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good point light source to use? I have tried several flashlights and lightbulbs and I keep getting fuzzy shadows. The best "point of light" I have found so far is a mini MagLight flashlight with the reflector assembly removed...but it is not as bright as I would like. Any ideas? Jim Tallman Artisan Industrials
Question for the temporally minded (about a clock)
I'm hoping some members of the sundial list might know a thing or two about keywind mechanical clocks. I don't know how to regulate one (I purchased this baby at a garage sale for $10...) You can see a picture of the movement at the following site: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/psykokidd/clockguts.jpg There is (barely visible in picture) a - and + markings on the movement but can't tell what that would indicate (should I give the screws a twist?). I apologize for going off topic. Troy -
For newcomers to the SML
Greetings, Long-time members of this List know that at irregular intervals I send out JPEG images of various processes in the making of metal sundials. As I recall this all began when John Carmichael suggested that we professional dial makers - and amateurs too for that matter - ought to be sharing some of our 'know how' with the dialling community worldwide and this was my way of rising to the challenge. At the moment I'm making a large version of the miniature equatorial which appears on my website and thought some newcomers might be interested in a few pics showing the milling of the latitude quadrant from 10mm thick solid plate and other related processes. If you would like to be added to my sub-mailing list please send me an email. There's no charge for the images but I retain their copyright. They may be freely used for any non-commercial purpose. If you already receive my JPEGs then you will automatically receive this posting. Images are reduced in size for efficient transmission as modem connection is not free in the UK. Posting will be in about 7 days. Best Wishes Tony Moss (proprietor Lindisfarne Sundials) PS I leave it to others to share the mysteries of working stone and other materials. I know John C. is doing this for a lucky few at the NASS Tucson Conference. Website: http://www.lindisun.demon.co.uk Lindisfarne Dial House 43 Windsor Gardens Bedlington Northumberland England NE22 5SY +1670 823232 -
Re: Sundial photo shoot
Jim Tallman wrote: >I am taking some documentary photographs of a new sundial concept and I >need a little help. > >I recall reading several postings in the past that referred to using a >point light source to simulate the sun. Hi Jim, It may have been my reference to my 3D model of the Frank Cousins' concept diagram (circulated recently as JPEGs) The 'point source' I used was one of those mini desk lamps with a low voltage halogen bulb. The filament is tiny and the light output large. It would work best without a reflector which will increase the source diameter but for my lecture the lamp in its standard mode was sufficiently convincing - and easier. Best Wishes Tony Moss -
Sundials in Vancouver (BC)
Fellow shadow watchers, I mentioned the recent correspondence on sundials in Vancouver BC to my expat' friends who live there and received this response. >There is one sundial in the courtyard of an apartment block on the south end >of the Burrard bridge. It is about 3 feet in diameter but is such a pathetic >thing I didn't bother mentioning it to you. Tony Moss -
Fwd: FW: Question for the temporally minded (about a clock)
Troy - 1st I apologize for contacting you off list but, I cannot send e-mail to the list. Please forward this to the list. You have what is called a floating balance clock. If you look at the balance from the top you will see 3 arms that stick out towards the edge of the balance rim. These are friction fit and control 2 weights that are in a spiral groove. By rotating the friction arms you move the two weights in or out thus regulating the clock. The screws attach the floating balance assembly to the movement. There is not a lot of regulation available via this method as this is the fine regulation. A rougher regulation is to move weights in the rim in pairs and or add/subtract weight. Pending your clocks condition and it is/was running the regulation of the friction arms should take care of your timing issues. If not, my first reaction is time for an overhaul of the movement. I do not advocate novices playing with floating balances as there are nuances to it's operation that a novice can destroy in seconds. NO WD-40! EVER. I don't care what anybody tells you. It gums up movements. I would be happy to help further on or off list - Regards, Henry - Clockmaker/Watchmaker Return-Path: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Received: from rly-st12.mail.aol.com (rly-st12.mail.aol.com [172.20.114.201]) by air-yb04.mail.aol.com (v86_r1.15) with ESMTP id MAILINYB41-0707190131; Sun, 07 Jul 2002 19:01:31 -0400 Received: from rly-za03.mx.aol.com (rly-za03.mail.aol.com [172.31.36.99]) by rly-st12.mail.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.8/AOL-5.0.0) with ESMTP id SAA27111 for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sun, 7 Jul 2002 18:58:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: from tisch.mail.mindspring.net (tisch.mail.mindspring.net [207.69.200.157]) by rly-za03.mx.aol.com (v86_r1.15) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINZA32-0707185803; Sun, 07 Jul 2002 18:58:03 -0400 Received: from 2cust95.tnt12.krk1.da.uu.net ([67.251.80.95] helo=OFFICE) by tisch.mail.mindspring.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 17RKyf-0002MO-00 for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 07 Jul 2002 18:58:02 -0400 From: "H. Hatem" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FW: Question for the temporally minded (about a clock) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:57:52 -0700 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600. Importance: Normal Troy - 1st I apologize for contacting you off list but, I cannot send e-mail to the list. Please forward this to the list. You have what is called a floating balance clock. If you look at the balance from the top you will see 3 arms that stick out towards the edge of the balance rim. These are friction fit and control 2 weights that are in a spiral groove. By rotating the friction arms you move the two weights in or out thus regulating the clock. The screws attach the floating balance assembly to the movement. There is not a lot of regulation available via this method as this is the fine regulation. A rougher regulation is to move weights in the rim in pairs and or add/subtract weight. Pending your clocks condition and it is/was running the regulation of the friction arms should take care of your timing issues. If not, my first reaction is time for an overhaul of the movement. I do not advocate novices playing with floating balances as there are nuances to it's operation that a novice can destroy in seconds. NO WD-40! EVER. I don't care what anybody tells you. It gums up movements. I would be happy to help further on or off list - Regards, Henry - Clockmaker/Watchmaker -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 2:44 PM To: sundial@rrz.uni-koeln.de Subject: Question for the temporally minded (about a clock) I'm hoping some members of the sundial list might know a thing or two about keywind mechanical clocks. I don't know how to regulate one (I purchased this baby at a garage sale for $10...) You can see a picture of the movement at the following site: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/psykokidd/clockguts.jpg There is (barely visible in picture) a - and + markings on the movement but can't tell what that would indicate (should I give the screws a twist?). I apologize for going off topic. Troy -
