On Tue, 19 Dec 2000 05:12:14 +1300
DAVID REID [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wrote
John,
Will probably work well on this size column. A few words of advice
though and a few questions. Dont expect a long life out of the cores so
dont
spend a lot of money on them. I say this from experience as owning a number
of old cars over the years and recoring the radiators because most of the
motors have not been too brilliant and tend to run too hot, have found the
recored radiators do not last too long with constant heat changes. Also
modern cores arnt as good as older ones as everything is now made to a
price
and they arnt designed to last.
If using pressure to clean these out use very low pressure or you will
damage them and bend and distort the fins closing some of them up, and
quickly causing channeling.
Make sure you use insulation on the column at least. Good solid rubber
underlay fixed with masking tape and/or danband (blue nylon strapping) and
appropriate buckles pulled up tight do a good job and are cheap
Rod through the centre and perforated plate washers (Approx 1/4 holes
covering at least 1/3 of the area)at either end will help tremendously. Use
threaded rod and put a nut either side of washer plate.
Look through yellow pages and find radiator manufacturers and give them a
call to source radiator core material. Try to use as good a core material
as
you can easily and cheaply get. Maybe you can even obtain new damaged cores
to cut the rounds out of. (Will definitely last longer). Old ones are on
the
way out due to metal fatigue due to continuous temperature changes.
Also try Holden as a likely source. Ring around the radiator rebuilders as
a
last resort
Column should be at least 6' (72 or 1830mm) long minimum and preferably at
least 9' (108 or 2750mm). A good rule of thumb and one the old timers
used
to use was 20 times the diameter for the length.( = approx 120 or say 3
M).
Even at 15 times this equals 7'-4 (88 or say 2250mm).
I dont know about your 10 x 2 This only equals 20 . More like 40
required
I think although you may be able to cut the length and number down.
Personally I wouldnt go below the 15 x figure for the length. Again as I
said above make sure you insulate the column properly. A double layer will
work even better minimising heat energy losses. The first layer insulates
and holds the heat, the second stops it radiating it out
How are you intending to heat the still by the way, electricity, gas, waste
oil or wood? This is critical as it is this cost that will quickly
determine wether the project is a success or failure. Also what are you
using for your fermentation stock?
I can probably sell you a very good, precise, and accurate controller
shortly (probably about 5 to 6 weeks away) if you need one at realistic
cost
which we have just finished the design of for my own stills that I intend
to
put out shortly. (just in process of finishing and testing prototype).
Good luck with your efforts . Again as previously mentioned I would use
laser cutting for your discs. These are expensive machines so the price is
likely to be expensive but it is the only thing that will do a good job. Do
yourself a favour and ring around. Explain what you are trying to do and
who
knows at this time of year you might find someone who catches the xmas
spirit and is prepared to help. If you need more help please ask.
B.r., David
Thanks once again David for advice.
Am in the recycling game so have a ready supply of near new radiators albeit
slightly bent. Which first started me thinking along these lines.
Cant yet find a laser cutter in Perth but there must be one here somewhere.
Heat for the still will be from a heatpump driven by a 10 horse honda motor
running on biogas.will be very much a trial and error affair but should work
OK.
Have all the control gear as long as my programming for the PLC holds up
Its interesting writing programs when you are not sure what you want to
achieve!!
The most readily available form of fermentation stock here is cereal grains
which I will fall back on If I cant get a consistant supply of household
biodegradeables that I can find a treatment for. The other thing here at
this
time of year is acres of paddy melons (Cucurbitaceae,Citrullus,lanatus)which
are
inedible (or at least very bitter) melons about 75 to 100mm diameter. will
have to run a batch through the hammer mill and see if they ferment.
Have looked at the Ag sites that I can find and can't find a guide to sugar
content or type in the melons. Guess if I get a packet of the yeast for
watermelon
wine It should work.
Thanks once again for the input
Regards
John
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