Re: [time-nuts] Frequency of LC Tank
On 04/12/2014 03:23 PM, d...@irtelemetrics.com wrote: Magnus, You are very much on the track that I was thinking. I belive you are absolutly correct in that a 90 degree phase shift would be ideal. Coming into the conversation kinda late. Sounds like you're building an induction heater which is what I do professionally. You might want to read this page http://inductionheatertutorial.com/ I gave Jonathan the circuit. He improved on it and inserted a microprocessor into the PLL to stabilize it and make it more noise resistant. He has some very nice videos on Youtube under the handle imsmoother. Here's my page http://www.neon-john.net/Induction/Index.htm John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Arduinos in time and near space
On 01/20/2014 01:23 AM, David J Taylor wrote: Is it possible to write (assuming the poor little creature would do it) a piece of code, that given your lat/long, the time and a two line element set for an orbiting object, such as the ISS, that would give you the acquisition of signal time/loss of signal time and so forth? Hey David, There's an amateur radio program for just that purpose. Several, in fact. Here's one: http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Software/Satellite_tracking/ The one you want is the AMSAT program. Probably too much for the Arduino, at least the 8 bit ones. Here's a peecee utility that has most of what you need. http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Software/Satellite_tracking/ It started out as a Linux program but the author abandoned it in '94 and this guy picked it up, improved it and ported it to windoze. He had started a backport to Linux. I liked the program enough that I finished the backport and sent the results back to the maintainer. Until he incorporates those changes into the main program, you can get the Linux version here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/81715047/sunwait_linux.tar.gz You'll have to add the Kepler components but the AMSAT program should have code that you can use for that purpose. I know that sunwait will compile for the Arduino because I tried the port with avrgcc 8 bit version. I didn't try to load or run it but the binary is small enough. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Spectrum Analyzer Suggestions
On 07/15/2013 10:37 AM, David Kirkby wrote: I don't know if it is true, but I read somewhere that some of the low-end Agilent scopes are made by Rigol. Personally I'd try to work around the weight issues of the HP. At least the HP will be fixable, whereas the Rigol will most likely be unrepairable in a few years time. True, but at about $300 (and declining with time), who'd want to bother with anything other than superficial repairs - replace a BNC jack or clean a button or something? If it quits, just chunk it in the trash and get another. That goes against every molecule of my frugal sensibilities but that's the name of the game in electronics these days. Another consideration is, if a power surge takes out the unit, you don't have a heart attack like one would with a $20k HP or Tek instrument. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] looking for low-power system for gps ntp timekeeping
On 07/02/2013 02:11 AM, Eric Williams wrote: What did they leave out of the hardware? Hard to tell what to look for when it's not there. Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm not sure what all is gone other than the USB port since I haven't bought one. There is a list of omissions in the mailing list archive, though. One other thing I forgot to mention. There is no voltage regulation or over-voltage protection on the board. The 5.0 volt input goes directly to the TI power management chip. My white BB would not boot on 5.1 volts. It required exactly 5.0 volts. I ended up taking a 9 volt wall wart and hacking an LM7805 voltage regulator into the positive lead. I did not test it for under-voltage but I imagine it's just as sensitive in that direction. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] looking for low-power system for gps ntp timekeeping
On 07/02/2013 02:14 AM, Iain Young wrote: On 02/07/13 06:43, NeonJohn wrote: Basically, the ancient implementation of Angstrom Linux is a POS. Just barely enough code to be able to say, for example, that SPI works. It does - sorta - but not well enough for any application where clock timing or jitter matters. You are not restricted to just Angstrom. My fleet run Debian. FreeBSD is also available. First thing I do is blow away Angstrom from any SD card. Yeah, and so is Ubuntu. So if you want to become a Linux (kernel) hacker instead of concentrating on your application, a BB is just for you. OTOH, if you expect it to just work out of the box like the Arduino and many other boards do, you'll be sorely disappointed. One other thing I forgot to mention. BeagleBoard actively discourages volume purchases and commercial use. Circuitco, the company that actually makes the BB will sell into commercial applications but at a considerably higher price. Finally https://www.gumstix.com/ offers a BB white clone with commercially rated parts for about $100. Supposedly their Linux implementation is much better supported, though I have no personal experience. One positive thing is that TI offers something called StarterWare for people who don't want to bother with an OS. It abstracts much of the intricacies of the bare metal. I downloaded a copy and took a look and was fairly impressed but by then I knew that a commercial grade board was going to cost in the $100 range so I had already abandoned the product. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Quartz crystal aging and applied voltage
On 06/30/2013 08:34 PM, Bob Camp wrote: Hi U….. eer….. Natural quartz is great stuff for making resonators. In many ways it's better than synthetic quartz. About the only thing natural is worse for is radiation. Natural quartz comes from all over the world. Most of the US supply comes from / came from Arkansas. If anything natural quartz with it's thousands of years growing process is lower stress and lower aging stuff. Interesting factoid. There is a WWII vintage quartz mine about 3 miles from where I live up here in the Tellico mountains in TN. They cut into solid rock about 25 feet and then went straight down with a shaft about 15 ft in diameter. Unfortunately when the mine played out, they filled it in, all but the entrance. Some of the quartz still visible is beautiful. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] looking for low-power system for gps ntp timekeeping
Before anyone wastes his money on a BeagleBone, I suggest you join the mailing list and read the hundreds of messages each day that pass through, most of them citing problems, mostly with the Linux implementation. Basically, the ancient implementation of Angstrom Linux is a POS. Just barely enough code to be able to say, for example, that SPI works. It does - sorta - but not well enough for any application where clock timing or jitter matters. I had intended to embed the BB white in my next revision induction heater. After several months of frustration and a considerable amount of money to a kernel programmer to write drivers that actually worked, I gave up. I could easily had a man-year in the application that I can do bare metal in a few months. The thing that finally canned the BB for me was the short SD card life. Even though the implementation uses a virtualized root file system, it still writes to the SD card about once a second. The result is that even industrial grade SD cards rarely live over a year. With the Black they tried to address the problem by putting some NAND memory on board but that only prolongs the problem and with components that are not easily changed. A final negative is the support. The team member, a guy named Gerald, who provides official support on the mailing lists is one of the most hateful persons I've encountered on the net. No, I never personally had an encounter with him but I daily shook my head in amazement that TI would let such a person rep them. PS: Before you go to buy the Black, take a careful look at what all they left off in an effort to compete with the Pi. PSS: I have a couple of Whites, one unopened, and a prototyping board for sale. Cheap :-) John On 07/01/2013 11:14 AM, Chris Albertson wrote: Thanks. I didn't know there were two kinds. This is more useful for only $5 more. -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] Releasing sources (was Re: Brooks Shera)
On 03/25/2013 09:36 AM, Jim Lux wrote: One reason is that if one DOES release source, one will wind up supporting it, because generally, we all nice people and helpful, and it's hard to tell someone no when they send an email asking how to get it to compile on Version N+3 when you used version N, etc. This can be a real distraction from whatever else you are doing. Boy, you can say that again. And open source hardware is even worse. A couple of years ago I put up an open source induction heater on my site. Everything included - schematics, board layouts, CAD files, theory of operation, how to wind the transformer - in short, everything I could think of. There's even a kit available from Fluxeon.com. Yet I probably spend an hour a day responding to emails about that project. Approximately 100% of the questions are either answered on my site or by a little googling. It's getting to be enough of a burden that I'm considering taking the page down. I'm a dedicated supporter of Open Source but this experience has tempered my enthusiasm a bit. And then there's the folks who argue with you about your implementation or coding style. Or electrical design style. I think that the people who want to argue design, especially what if I did this? type arguments are more tiresome than the software know-it-alls. People need to really think and do their Google homework before hitting the email button on a project site. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.fluxeon.com -- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Chinese Scopes
On 04/16/2012 03:46 AM, Attila Kinali wrote: What's the quality of those chinese scopes? I have one of the Rigol 2 channel 100 MHz 1GHz sampling rate scopes. Can't recall the model number. It's the one that either HP or Tek private labels. It is superb. It was with great sadness that I removed my Tek 465 and a more modern 4 channel unit from my bench and now have them covered and stored in the back corner of my shop. I just don't need them. There is a rumor that one also needs an analog scope. While that was true with my FlukeScope, it is not with the Rigol. It has the look and feel of an analog storage scope but without the bloom or fade. Disclaimer: I design induction heaters and so deal mostly with low frequency (20MHz) stuff. I do have one of those scope testers that Tek used to hand out. The Rigol looks just like the pictures in the manual that came with the tester. John John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Schematic capture, anyone?
I use professionally. It was the best that our small company could afford. Here are some tips that will save you mucho grief. 1) This is the biggie. Make your own parts library. Then put any part that you have to create in that library. As well, put a copy of any standard library part in your library AFTER you've verified that the part, especially the footprint is valid. Then put that library under SubVersion or whatever version control system you use. I call my library 00johh.lbr. The 00 makes it appear first in the library list. 2) another biggie. Validate any part that you take from an Eagle library. They are recklessly careless with those parts. I've found silk screens on the solder side and even individual pins on the wrong side. I lost a board run only once because of this but it was enough to make me extremely paranoid. 3) LOOK AT YOUR GERBERS! It takes a pretty long while and it's tedious work (I print mine out on an 11X17 printer and check off every feature with a highlighter as I go) but it's vital. Eagle doesn't always produce Gerbers like the board appears on the screen. Especially if you get caught by #2 above. I use gerbv which is a Linux tool but I think there's a version for the mac's almost-unix OS. John On 02/26/2012 02:12 PM, Jim Hickstein wrote: In case anyone is following my progress, I started with EAGLE. It works fine on the Mac. I can tell it's not quite native (it even has a man(1) page!), but it's no problem. One afternoon with the tutorial, and I have a schematic. -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Tek high voltage probes
On 09/21/2011 04:57 AM, David C. Partridge wrote: Howsabout HFC-236fa - very similar properties to R114 but not banned. Tektronix used a Freon in their 40 KV High Voltage probes. The Vapor pressure of some of those compounds is low at 70F, but they do have to be sealed. I use several of the Tek probes in my work (and of course am too cheap to buy the newer solid dielectric ones). When my freon ran out, I searched around for a replacement fluid and found ordinary butane straight from the Ronsonol can to be equal to or maybe even better than the original freon. About a decade ago I wrote up a procedure on how to do the fill without introducing condensate into the chamber. I posted it to Usenet. I think that it's archived at http://yarchive.net. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Tek high voltage probes
It's going on 10 years now since I last filled a probe. That's the major advantage of butane. It doesn't diffuse out like the freon did. On 09/22/2011 01:53 PM, Jose Camara wrote: John: One big difference is that when most of the butane leaked out and air leaked in, you'd get a very clear indication when arcs occur. I wouldn't want to be holding it. -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Motorola RLN-4394A GPS antenna
On 09/04/2011 04:32 PM, David Garnier wrote: there should be a way to stop this gaming of the search engine. Ideas? Just add -ebay and -e-bay without the quotes to your search string. That makes sleazebay disappear from your screen. If you have a google account, you can plug those strings into your config so that the exclusion is automatic. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Three Phase Power
On 06/28/2011 08:16 AM, Will Matney wrote: Things like this, make me think, that these smart meters need to be policed, if we don't want to end up being royaly screwed. Making sure the timing is correct, on any of the meters, is the same as demanding calibration for any piece of equipment like scales, etc, and it ought ot be done more, since money changes hands. Being a former utility engineer and a closet meter nut (anyone else have a revenue meter calibration bench in his lab? :-), I thought I'd comment on this. Federal regulations require that smart meters be manually read once a year. That will re-sync things if the electronic reportage gets out of whack. That solves only one of the many problems with electronic meters. Let's say lightning hits hard enough to blow the meter apart. With the old mechanical meters, at least a last reading could be taken from the mechanical register. With the electronic meter, if the LCD is even still intact, it's just laying there blank. A client utility recently rolled out about 80,000 electronic meters with no pilot program or prior testing. It has been an unmitigated disaster. Over 10% initial failure rate, probably from infant mortality. Automatic reading has been spotty at best. The selected system uses a ZigBee-based mesh network which in a rural setting doesn't work very well. The utility has has to hire a contractor to handle customer complaints. I got a batch of 100 of the old decommissioned mechanical meters. I wanted to test them to see how accurate they are. Some are over 30 years old. I'm about half way through the batch and have yet to find one more than about 1.5% out. This is what I expected from past experience. The electrical Co-Op that serves me did it the smart way. They deployed the Turtle system. This is a system that retrofits to the mechanical meter with a photocell to count wheel revolutions. It sends the reading back over the power line using a modulation scheme that I have yet to be able to discover. They're pretty tight lipped about that. From what I hear from talking to the field engineers, this has been a highly successful roll-out with very few complaints. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] alkali metals and water
On 03/03/2011 02:52 AM, Robert Atkinson wrote: Hmm, Anyone else remember Sodium-Sulphur secondary batteries? they were proposed for electric vehicles in the late 70's I rode on a prototype at Chloride. You have to heat them up to melt both the Sodium and the Sulphur to make them work (about 270 deg C). Always sounded like a bad mixture to me. Far from dead. They're getting fairly widespread deployment as static peak shavers for utilities. Cheaper than gas turbines, can be located anywhere and make no noise. Lots of noises being made about resurrecting the chemistry for automotive use. packaged in vacuum containers, there is very minimal heat input requirement and that is usually supplied by normal charge and discharge cycles. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Bulletin Board / Forum
On 08/25/2010 09:48 AM, J. Forster wrote: If your objective is to make a Wiki for Time-Nuts topics, why not do just that. There are Wiki Builder packages out there and IMO an easily searchable archive of Group posts would be a good thing. It's unclear to me how many will have time to read both emails and a forum. I certainly don't. Echo that. I hate fora with a passion. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material
Chuck Harris wrote: I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is what EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given illumination, but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net result is greater power consumption overall. Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience. When I had a restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer. I wanted to know when the compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the dining room where I sat when not busy. I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling. Then I installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL. It lasted over 5 years and was still going strong when I closed the restaurant. Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't see how they can sell them at all. Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now! I got two for free from my power company (They hid the charge on my bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It involved opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours, and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie. To clean up the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid. Like some meaningless worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something. Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a 100 watt CFL. That is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is fairly harmless. What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner? John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] LED Spectra mentioned in time-nuts Digest, Vol 66, Issue 164
J. Forster wrote: I believe these particular units came from a biomedical analyzer of some sort. The gratings (hence the dispersion) can be changed at the factory, but it costs something like $500 last seen. I work with a fellow who makes custom gas discharge lamps (you need a spectra, he makes the light!) and we bought an OO from the company. About $2k. I'd LOVE to have a second one so yes, please post the name of the guy who had those. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 4 KV Power Supply Recommendations
J. L. Trantham wrote: Any thoughts on a source for an external HV power supply for this application? Cheapest way I know is a 3500 volt, 10 ma neon sign transformer and a high voltage rectifier diode. The transformer will cost you about $30 new and a replacement diode for a microwave oven can't be over $10 even at appliance parts dealer rip-off price. You'll need a variac too, as the rectified voltage will be a bit high otherwise. IF you can't find a transformer locally, drop me a note off-list. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Power Back-up
gsteinb...@aol.com wrote: Weather projections for California this winter are WET, which implies local power failures (lasting up to perhaps eight hours). What do time-nuts do for backup power? I have one of the TAPR TBolt systems along with numerous other toys (OCXOs that should probably be kept running to avoid retrace errors). Automobile batteries? UPS inverter systems? Two kVA UPS backed by a 24 volt, 600 amp-hour battery bank. That's good for almost 24 hours at my current loading. Because I live in a remote mountain cabin, I depend on electricity for my well water also. Therefore before a day passes, the 10kVA generator comes out to power up the well pump, the water heater, the heat pump and the electric stove. Nine days is the longest that I've been without power. I have a wood stove insert for my fireplace for heat, the fan of which is powered from the UPS. There is an 80 amp charger for the batteries that is powered up whenever utility or generator power is available. For backup to the backup, I can use the 4kVA generator in my motorhome to run everything except the heat pump. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] E1938A Schematic
Brooke Clarke wrote: Hi Adrian: For the last few days there has been a problem with FireFox. I too can not see the page in Firefox but can with IE6. This applies to many web pages. Must be winders-related. Looks fine here under Linux FireFox. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Apollo, space and time
w...@aol.com wrote: Audio can also be found here... _http://www.nasa.gov/externalflash/apollo11_radio/index.html_ (http://www.nasa.gov/externalflash/apollo11_radio/index.html) Anyone know if this audio is downloadable as files? I'm on Hughsnet and unfortunately can't stream this stuff for long until I get hit with a bandwidth penalty. I have unlimited bandwidth at night. BTW, another major event happened today. The Trinity shot that started the nuclear age happened today in 1945. Of particular interest to this group is the timing and data logging techniques used. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com -- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
