Re: IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?

2015-08-19 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
Try achieving continuity at points in between pads, or between a single pad and 
points nearer then the 2nd pad.

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Re: Vintage Mac Recommendation

2015-08-18 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
others are much better informed on this subject. But the h/d will be compatible 
- physically - with virtually every Mac made. Assuming it's a 3 1/2 model (it 
has to be I reckon). As to absolute os compatibility, well it shouldn't go so 
bad. A few tweaks will be necessary I'm sure.
 I personally have never operated a Mac w/more then 1 h/disk. You can have 7 
drives daisy chained on 1 scsi channel. They have scsi in the rear. You could 
consider simply using your drive as an external unit. Why are you being such a 
pansy and don't want to install in os fresh? To ensure the safety of your data, 
you may want to install your drive as secondary. Who knows, something could go 
wrong . . . 

 The quintessential old school Mac is the IIfx IMHO. If you wanted my opinion 
on something newer, the Color Classic or LC475 (Quadra 475?). In any event the 
Mystic mobo drops into both machines. And with the CC, you have your monitor 
built in. O man you are in fact the quintessential Mac user. You don't want to 
do nothing!

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Re: IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?

2015-08-18 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
all good advice (bear in mind I'm no expert though). 

But what about vinegar and maybe salt to clean the surface of the board? It 
eats green oxidation. There must be other chemicals/substances out there that 
will consume battery acid and corrosion. Baking soda and or vinegar?

 Wes, you can make a new trace if you want to. In my opinion it may make more 
sense to solder the trace to it's respective points, and forego epoxying until 
later. You may even be able to get away without it. Just to see if it works. 
And you can get some thin hookup wire and use that to determine if that's the 
problem. Just use a small bit of solder clipped from a roll (I have some very 
thin kester no lead solder in my stash), and a not iron to just tack it in 
place. Heck you could mechanically short the 2 points together with an all 
metal compass say or a bent up paper clip  (no it's not really a short, that's 
just a way of saying you're connecting 2 points together with a conductor. Be 
careful not to actually short anything).
 Keep in mind also that sometimes these pads have an opposing pad on the bottom 
of the board. You can use that point, if present, to confirm continuity or lack 
thereof.

  From: Derek Morton thes...@comcast.net
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 7:53 AM
 Subject: Re: IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?
   
Wesley,

Continuity is the key, if your meter is indicating an open then the traces must 
be bad.  To verify, I would suggest cleaning the area with isopropyl alcohol 
first (99% if you can find it otherwise the highest number you can get).  Use 
an acid brush 
(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-in-x-6-in-Acid-Brush-307122/100346943) 
which has been trimmed to give you a shorter angled brush head (cut off around 
half the length of the brush).  This will give you a good vertical scrubber 
which won't be overly harsh on the surface and will tolerate the chemical 
environment.  Scrub firmly, but gently...  Too much force can cause damage.  
After scrubbing you need to clean up the area before the alcohol dries.  The 
alcohol (in conjunction with the scrubbing) will dissolve and lift the 
contaminates from the board but when it evaporates the contaminates will be 
re-deposited on the board.  Ideally you should use Kimwipes to clean up the 
area, but a thin cotton cloth (old t-shirt perhaps) should work reasonably well.

Verify the continuity (or lack of) once cleaned.

You can fix the problem in a couple different ways.  The proper way is to 
remove and replace the track.  This is a moderately difficult task requiring 
you to remove the damaged track, cut a new track from copper sheet to replace 
the damaged section, epoxy it to the board (feathering in the points where the 
new trace meets up with the told trace), solder the ends to re-establish 
continuity and then coat with new track to protect it.  The MUCH easier option 
is to simply use some hook-up wire to bypass the damaged section.  You can go 
from via/pad/track to via/pad/track, take your pick.

I would advise some caution however.  Apple's boards do not seem to tolerate 
re-work well.  Everything seems to lift from the board with very little heat, 
so be careful.

Hope it helps,

Derek



On Aug 14, 2015, at 10:22 PM, Wesley Furr wrote:

 I have a IIcx that got eaten alive by a battery leak.  I recently acquired a 
 replacement motherboard from someone in unknown condition.  It would turn on 
 but not do anything.  Figured it needed a re-cap, and Charles concurred.  I 
 spent some time this evening removing the caps (put me down for a fan of the 
 twist method!) and getting it cleaned up.  Everything looks good except for 
 two traces around C7.  Take a look here:
  
 http://www.megley.com/temp/iicx.jpg
  
 The white square lines at the bottom are where C7 sits.  My meter is not 
 getting continuity between the upper pad on C7 and the spot just above and to 
 the right of it.  The other trace that goes from the left of it to above it 
 looks bad and I'm not getting continuity there either...but I don't know how 
 much of that might just be the crud on those points.
  
 What do the experts think?  Likely bad?  How does one go about repairing 
 those traces if they are bad?  Can the points (are they vias?) be cleaned 
 up and soldered to?  Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.  No 
 point in wasting good caps on this board if it's not going to work when I get 
 done with it...
  
 Thanks,
  
 Wesley
  

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Wanted: IIfx, Color Classic, LC475, cheapish condition

2015-08-18 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
Preferably not working!

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Re: Monitor

2015-04-08 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
It's not about the size of the monitor, it's about resolution. Many macs can 
support different resolution, from 640 x 480 up. I do not have any more of this 
data handy unfortunately. You need to, iirc, short certain pins together for it 
to boot into a certain resolution. There should be a diagram or data somewhere. 
I routinely used to make these, in the mid 90s, to support single resolution 
fixed frequency monitors that I would find on the surplus market and sell them 
to Mac users. I still have a couple HP/Sony units tucked away. 
 Don't just start experimenting. You need to either buy a dongle or a cable 
(that has the pins already configured). I have a few Sony dongles in storage, 
but on one side they plug into a 15 pin Apple card/connector, a VGA cable on 
the other side. Probably not what the op is looking for.
 

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Re: Monitor

2015-04-08 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
all 68020 and up Macs had to have the cable's sense pins configured. I can't 
say when this became unnecessary. 

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speaking of monitors ... was Re: Monitor

2015-04-08 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
If anyone in the NJ area or it's environs has a big (used to be called two 
page) black and white monitor in good shape I may be interested. The 
accompanying card would be moocho nice-o too. I have an old HP UX workstation 
monitor, 98788a, but I have tried hooking it to anything yet.

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Re: Horizontal line on screen

2014-11-11 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
you can simply remove a board, and touch each connection (on the bottom, solder 
side) with a hot iron. I fixed a power supply like that once. Will the operator 
be subject to discharge from a capacitor? Not if you avoid those altogether. 
Soldering iron handles are plastic anyway. You could also ground the iron w/a 
strap. Discharging caps and tubes is no big deal though. Just short each lead 
to ground through a suitable sized resistor (resistance and power). There will 
be numerous details on the around the net.

  From: Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.net
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 7, 2014 6:56 PM
 Subject: Re: Horizontal line on screen
   

 On Oct 27, 2014, at 8:46 AM, fa...@gottick.com wrote:
 
 Have a SE FDHD that starts up fine but all i get on the screen is a bright 
 horizontal line. About a milimeter wide. Any suggestions on this?

You can try refreshing the solder on the yoke connector on the Analog board. A 
quick test would be to knock on the left side of the Mac. if the screen freaks 
out, just resolder those connections.

There’s an outside chance it could be the chip at U2 on the analog board. If 
that’s the case, you’ll need to find a suitable replacement.

Try refreshing the solder on the yoke connection first.

- Dylan

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Re: Horizontal line on screen

2014-11-07 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
Hi,

Have a SE FDHD that starts up fine but all i get on the screen is a bright 
horizontal line. About a milimeter wide. Any suggestions on this?

Regards Anders
 Unless my brain isn't working as it should (HA!), that indicates the flyback 
transformer has crapped the bed. Or perhaps a bad solder connection to it. 
Something like that.
 Someone else should come along shortly that will confirm or deny.
  

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Re: Horizontal line on screen

2014-11-07 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
see, my brain was working just fine! SNAFU
It's a problem w/the vertical circuit. Not the flyback. don't think so anyway 
(didn't even seem right when I was typing).

  From: 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 7, 2014 6:50 PM
 Subject: Re: Horizontal line on screen
   
Hi,

Have a SE FDHD that starts up fine but all i get on the screen is a bright 
horizontal line. About a milimeter wide. Any suggestions on this?

Regards Anders
 Unless my brain isn't working as it should (HA!), that indicates the flyback 
transformer has crapped the bed. Or perhaps a bad solder connection to it. 
Something like that.
 Someone else should come along shortly that will confirm or deny.
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OT: Need a keyboard for a Sony Series 35 Model 10

2014-06-11 Thread 'Chris Tofu' via Vintage Macs
looks like an early compact Mac, so thought someone might hold onto one or it's 
components if they found one. Would consider purchasing the entire unit

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Re: Printing from a classic mac

2014-03-17 Thread Chris Tofu

WHat dudes do with computers with rs-232 serial ports is connect that to an 
older say pentium single boaard compter and transfer the files to be printed to 
that and use it's facilities to drive a printer. The old macs don't have 
rs-232, rs-422 or something, which is compatible enough for text file transfers 
)I did it ages ago with a mac cable, can't remember which one, between a mac 2 
and an old hp 386).



--
On Mon, Mar 17, 2014 6:24 PM PDT Louis Ciotti wrote:

OK now my next topic.  Is it possible to print to a shared printer from a 
classic mac (running OS 7,8 or 9).

Now that I am getting the networking things working my next hurdle is to 
get them to print to a modern printer.  I have a PC box running windows 
server 2003 r2.  This still has appletalk sharing on it.  I have shared a 
printer on it, but I cannot see it via the desktop printer utility.  

Sorry for all the questions here lately, but I am really an new to apple 
stuff having only used apples briefly my first two years college around 
1994.  Now I have the opportunity to feed my vintage computer habit, I am 
sort of hooked on these old apples.

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Re: Retr0brite???

2014-03-16 Thread Chris Tofu

Understand there's yellowing, then there's browning. Fantastic removes browning 
very well. Did on my Lisa. In fact if you scrub long enough the yellowing will 
come off (with a rough shop cloth say). A lot of it anyway. Doesn't hurt to 
try. 

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Re: Retr0brite???

2014-03-16 Thread Chris Tofu


What about just carefully draping the item with old cloth and soaking that. 
Resoak as needed? 

--
On Sun, Mar 16, 2014 12:34 PM PDT Jordan Utolia wrote:

The dunk method is what I'd recommend if you have a LOT of stuff to cover. 
You can also get UV lamps and toss the whole shebang in your garage 
overnight. 

Here's an even easier method: 

1.) Get a spray bottle, 1L size. 
2.) Get some Oxy-product. I went to a laundromat and paid 75c for a small 
packet of Oxy-something. (Didn't need or want a large quantity of it.) Get 
two bottles of regular H2O2 hydrogen peroxide (two liters total). 
3.) Pour a liter of H202 into a sauce pan and get it to about 40 or 50 
degrees C. (This helps dissolve the solute better. 40 deg C is 104 F, 50 
deg C is about 120 F.)
4.) For each liter of hydrogen peroxide, add 5ml (about teaspoon) of 
Oxy-product. Shake vigorously for about five minutes. 
5.) Place the plastic product to be blasted outside. Full sun required. Use 
your sprayer to spray the unit about once every 30 to 45 seconds. 
Essentially, keep it wet all the time. Even better, grab a book and a 
chair, prop yourself up in the shade within range of the sprayer, and just 
go to town. If you want to go big-scale, then just get one of those 
pesticide dispensers that your pour in water and 
pesticide/herbicide/whatever. Pour in the proper mixture of H202, shake it 
all well (so there is no particulate matter on the bottom), pressurize the 
container, and then all you have to do is pull the trigger. 

I did a SE/30 back, faceplate, M1106 keyboard and mouse with this method 
and it came out great.  

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possibly OT: Motorola Starmax PowerPC Mac clone

2014-02-19 Thread Chris Tofu

Anyone have one? If so let me know. Tx

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Re: Sacrilege - Need LCD TV Recommendation for Mac SE

2014-02-03 Thread Chris Tofu


The pi has hdmi out, no? Look on ebay for 9 - 11 standalone monitors (most of 
which will need ntsc, but you may get lucky). Or a backseat dvd player that you 
can gut (likely all of them need ntsc I would think, but ... are we feeling 
lucky yet?). 

 Are you techy? You could investigate driving an appropriate lcd wit duh pi. I 
don't know. I don't know anything. I have a stack of 486 era thinkpad lcd's and 
a few pentium single boards that should marry well. But the pi is nowhere near 
as versatile.

--
On Mon, Feb 3, 2014 9:58 AM PST Dylan McDermond wrote:


On Feb 3, 2014, at 7:40 AM, Steve Craft craft.st...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a very old SE that has sat on the shelf, untouched for about 15 
 years. This past weekend we checked it out and a good percentage of the 
 electronics has has been melted by leaking caps or battery or something . 
 The computer guts are done.

That sounds like an exploded PRAM battery. The type of capacitors in the SE 
usually don't leak and if they did, the damage would be confined to the logic 
board.

If you'd rather keep the box original, I'm sure myself and others have the 
working parts you need (logic and analog boards).

- Dylan

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Re: Mac IIci - Recapped, now it won't shut down.

2014-02-03 Thread Chris Tofu

JUST PULL THE BLOOMIN PLUG. BLIMEY.


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mid 90s Mac-Cube cd set (shareware collection)

2014-01-06 Thread Chris Tofu

Anyone have it?

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Re: Removing pry marks from a Mac 512K case?

2014-01-06 Thread Chris Tofu

Well you could drill an appropriate sized hole in a suitable material and use a 
heat gun to soften a localized area.

Touchy work. Far more of an art then science.

You could practice a bit on an inconspicuous area. Say the inside of the 
keyboard. But there's no grainy texture there.

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Re: Mac Plus won't start up

2013-10-20 Thread Chris Tofu

Visually inspect all capacitors for starters.  Marred, charred, corrosion, 
explosions. Possibly a bad solder joint, crack. My first guess would be the 
analog board. 

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RE: Semi-OT - Unexpected benefits of old computer hobbies and capacitors

2013-10-17 Thread Chris Tofu

If anyone's real good with cars (sorry couldn't resist):

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=As1kO7ZEIAkUMJ1vcXWwRNjM_Nw4?qid=20131016195535AA9XgqM

Or 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/78278-1992-Lumina-3-1-sedan-died-starts-with-ether-sort-of

E-mail me :)

--
On Thu, Oct 17, 2013 6:50 AM PDT Jason Johnson wrote:

I'd suggest your TPS throttle position sensor first.

 From: wes...@megley.com
 To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
 Subject: RE: Semi-OT - Unexpected benefits of old computer hobbies and 
 capacitors
 Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2013 09:06:16 -0400
 
 I've got a 92 Caravan (just rolled over 22 miles yesterday)...it has an
 occasionally odd hiccup...stumbles or power loss at moderate throttle...hit
 the gas and it pops out of it and is fine.  In the back of my mind I've
 started wondering if aging capacitors in the computer somewhere might be
 causing a problem...they certainly seem to start going out in most
 everything else that old!  Seems that they are a wear item in the
 electronics world...  :-(  A friend says that is often all it takes to bring
 antique radios back to life...
 
 I've replaced capacitors in lots of things...an old inverter, power supply
 for a wireless router, monitors and TV's, motherboards, an old PC video
 card, etc.  Definitely a good skill to have!  Now if I can just master those
 dang surface mount caps...  :-)  On my list to try again when I have some
 free time...
 
 Wesley
 
 
 -Original Message-
 
 This isn't directly related to Vintage Macs, but I thought I'd share it
 anyway given the recent topics of discussion and lack of overwhelming
 traffic.
 
 I've recapped a couple Mac boards over the years to decent success. 
 Well, a bit ago my car started running somewhat poorly. Not undriveably so,
 but just having hesitation and missing on acceleration. Granted, it's a
 high-mileage 1991 Toyota MR2, so problems aren't unexpected with a car that
 old. Had it at the shop finally, and the guys diagnosed it to the main
 engine ECU computer. They tested all the sensor inputs, and saw they were
 good, but saw the fuel injector outputs as bad.
 
 Their recommendation was replacing the ECU, which involved rather more money
 than I wanted to spend on such a thing. On a whim, I took apart the
 computer, and lo and behold, the board had that familiar corrosion under a
 couple of caps.
 
 http://bit.ly/1bAqDzZ
 
 Had no trouble finding replacements and swapping them, and now the car runs
 perfectly.
 
 Who'd a thunk that all these years of playing with ancient computer hardware
 would come in handy like that. Even my wife is a little more understanding
 of my electronics foibles after this :)
 
 Scott
 
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Re: Semi-OT - Unexpected benefits of old computer hobbies and capacitors

2013-10-16 Thread Chris Tofu


I can't see any corrosion.

That isn't much of a computer. Looks like a few ttl chips. Most cars of that 
age have 2 computers afaik. One at least has a board with a uP chip, like an 
8088 or a 68000.


--
On Wed, Oct 16, 2013 9:20 PM PDT Scott Holder wrote:

This isn't directly related to Vintage Macs, but I thought I'd share it anyway 
given the recent topics of discussion and lack of overwhelming traffic.

I've recapped a couple Mac boards over the years to decent success. Well, a 
bit ago my car started running somewhat poorly. Not undriveably so, but just 
having hesitation and missing on acceleration. Granted, it's a high-mileage 
1991 Toyota MR2, so problems aren't unexpected with a car that old. Had it at 
the shop finally, and the guys diagnosed it to the main engine ECU computer. 
They tested all the sensor inputs, and saw they were good, but saw the fuel 
injector outputs as bad.

Their recommendation was replacing the ECU, which involved rather more money 
than I wanted to spend on such a thing. On a whim, I took apart the computer, 
and lo and behold, the board had that familiar corrosion under a couple of 
caps.

http://bit.ly/1bAqDzZ

Had no trouble finding replacements and swapping them, and now the car runs 
perfectly.

Who'd a thunk that all these years of playing with ancient computer hardware 
would come in handy like that. Even my wife is a little more understanding of 
my electronics foibles after this :)

Scott

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Re: Vintage Mac users based in Ulster, British Isles and Republic of Ireland.

2013-06-22 Thread Chris Tofu


--
On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 2:17 AM PDT Charles Lowndes wrote:


Anyway enough rambling, it's cool that there are others this side of the pond, 
if not exactly 'local'! 

Charlie

 Yet on opposite sides of the stream. Or is it brook? Or creek? Some american 
rednecks say crick. Frankly I don't know the difference between them.




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anyone looking for a Lisa?

2013-06-01 Thread Chris Tofu

I have one, no mouse, doesn't turn on (boards need to be cleaned, but I don't 
know), yelowed. O/w in good cosmetic shape. I also have the profile drive, no 
cable, no confidence the inner drive works at all. Also missing screws.
 If interested contact me offlist obviously. I'm going to give it a looking 
over in the next few days and take pictures. I could just put it on ebay but 
they're making me sick lately.

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Re: anyone looking for a Lisa?

2013-06-01 Thread Chris Tofu


Depends. It worked just prior to me owning it. If it works it might be a 
different story ...

--
On Sat, Jun 1, 2013 11:11 AM PDT Hardware Mack wrote:

wow Dylan...  :)   I'm pretty sure he wants 400 smackers.



On Jun 1, 2013, at 2:08 PM, Dylan McDermond wrote:

 Sorry about spamming the list with this. I didn't check the headers before 
 sending.
 
 - Dylan
 
 On Jun 1, 2013, at 11:07 AM, Dylan McDermond dy...@mcdermond.net wrote:
 
 I've been looking for a Lisa about ten years. I have a good sized Apple
 Collection (www.applefool.com) and a Lisa has been one of my Eleanors
 
 What kinds of prices are you entertaining?
 
 - Dylan
 
 On Jun 1, 2013, at 10:28 AM, Chris Tofu rampaginggreenh...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 
 I have one, no mouse, doesn't turn on (boards need to be cleaned, but I 
 don't know), yelowed. O/w in good cosmetic shape. I also have the profile 
 drive, no cable, no confidence the inner drive works at all. Also missing 
 screws.
 If interested contact me offlist obviously. I'm going to give it a looking 
 over in the next few days and take pictures. I could just put it on ebay 
 but they're making me sick lately.
 
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Re: LISA2 1.8a Power supply question

2013-06-01 Thread Chris Tofu


Perhaps there's a solder crack somewhere. I fixed at least 1 p/s many moons ago 
by touching various pads on the underside of the board. Put it all back 
together and it worked like a charm. And I chose spots randomly and.wasn't even 
that thorough.


--
On Sat, Jun 1, 2013 11:06 AM PDT Notgoing Totellyou wrote:

isn't the most common thing to cause a short like this in a switch mode 
power supply, is bridge rectifier gone bad?


On Sunday, May 19, 2013 3:55:06 PM UTC-4, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:

 Hello there i have this LISA2 PSU here,

 What its doing is blowing the fuse,
 install a new fuse plug it in, it blows again,

 I am assuming there is a short,  i checked the bridge rectifier, the 4 
 diodes check out good with the VOM.
 Anyone else had these issues with the LISA 2 power supply, maybe a common 
 issue before i spend half the day probing around
 with the VOM.

 Thank You much, as always.
 Charles



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Re: LISA2 1.8a Power supply question

2013-06-01 Thread Chris Tofu

... by touching various pads on the underside of the board. ...

 - with a hot soldering iron that is.

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Re: anyone looking for a Lisa?

2013-06-01 Thread Chris Tofu

K/b yes. Floppy capacity - ???

Tomorrow evening I'll have pictures.

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Re: hello guys, Hey upgraded LISA I question.

2013-05-06 Thread Chris Tofu


Weren't you given 2 replacement part #'s?


--
On Mon, May 6, 2013 11:58 AM PDT Hardware Mack wrote:

but what about the transistor,  so do we agree they were a pair?

So the part # on that Transistor is not available,
A cross referenced part would need to be found.

and in order to find this part i need to message this guy on ebay people
keep talking about?

The guy at radio shack looked for almost an hour could not figure out what
to cross reference to this.
Didn't feel comfortable selling me something, he was not sure about.






On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 2:44 AM, ianbatty...@gmail.com ianbatty...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 I'd be *real* careful on this. The method I taught was to go around with a
 manual solder sucker (a hand-operated vacuum sucker) and clear each hole
 individually using a temp-controlled iron.  It takes a while, and another
 post recommends cutting all the legs and removing individually. I prefer to
 remove the chip in one piece, it might be perfectly ok! Your mileage and
 hand skills may vary.


 Ian Batty M.Ed.
 145 Leversha Road
 Harcourt 3453
 Victoria
 Tel (03) 5474 2826
 Mob 0402 736 527

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Re: hello guys, Hey upgraded LISA I question.

2013-05-05 Thread Chris Tofu


Those are common parts that Digi-Key will sell if not Radio Shack.


--
On Fri, May 3, 2013 7:00 PM PDT Hardware Mack wrote:

do those cross reference to something radio shack might sell ?  :-)


Thanks for looking at that!

Charles



On May 3, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Blair Aakre wrote:

 Q1 and Q2 are part of the oscillator circuit. They are both identical 2N4258 
 PNP transistors according to my CPU board schematic.
 
 -Blair
 
 
 
 On May 3, 2013, at 5:09 PM, Hardware Mack wrote:
 
 thank you for that great information!
 
 Can anyone look at their lisa cpu board and let me know what you have in 
 that spot?
 
 Thank You!
 Charles
 
 
 
 On May 3, 2013, at 6:01 PM, Doug McNutt wrote:
 
 At 12:56 -0700 5/3/13, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
 I have the CPU card here and its missing a transistor.
 
 i can't find a replacement anywhere.
 
 Anyone have any lisa parts laying around?
 
 it reads : AMPS 4258 EBC
 
 you can see the spot behind it, it's missing .
 
 \
 Transistor Data Book edition 48, 1980
 
 MPS4258   CRI, SPS, MOTO  p 153 line 15  which says:
 
 Silicon PNP low power
 350 mw collector dissipation
 V cbo 12 V
 Collector max  800 mA
 Hfe (gain)  15
 
 
 I would recommend a very common 2N2907 as a replacement.
 
 From the picture it's not altogether clear that transistors Q1 and Q2 are 
 supposed to be the same type.. A pretty common circuit uses PNP and NPN 
 pairs close together.  The pair to the 2N2907 is NPN type 2N, also very 
 common. (I have a bunch of both here. Use dmcnutt at above off list with 
 Lisa somewhere in the subject.)
 
 A look at a working Lisa would be worth while. Anybody here ??
 
 I also have no idea what the A in front of the very common Motorola MPS 
 means.
 
 
 -- 
 
 Fe++
  //  \
 Fe++  Fe++
 |   ||
 Fe++  Fe++
 \\/
 Fe++
 
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To 

Re: hello guys, Hey upgraded LISA I question.

2013-05-05 Thread Chris Tofu


Maybe a complete board but not individual transistors. 

This is an easy fix, after you get the boards out. Static could be a hazard if 
you're not using a proper desoldering station. I don't own one, and would and 
have replaced individual components on circuit boards successfully. Just grasp 
the old component (or lead if the component is cooked) with skinny pliars, heat 
both leads with say a 15-25 watt iron, either simultaneously or go back and 
forth quickly, and pull. Hopefully on exit the leads will leave holes for 
reinserting the new parts. If not just heat the area/pads, but just enough to 
make the solder flow, don't cook the board, you could create more problems. 
Then reinsert the new components and add a bit of solder while applying the 
iron, and that should do it.


--
On Fri, May 3, 2013 3:45 PM PDT Richard Darner wrote:

Check with vintagemicros via eBay. His name is John Woodall and I guarantee 
you that he will be able to fulfill your needs.

Sent from Richard Darner's iPhone

On May 3, 2013, at 5:09 PM, Hardware Mack hardwarem...@gmail.com wrote:

 thank you for that great information!
 
 Can anyone look at their lisa cpu board and let me know what you have in 
 that spot?
 
 Thank You!
 Charles
 
 
 
 On May 3, 2013, at 6:01 PM, Doug McNutt wrote:
 
 At 12:56 -0700 5/3/13, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
 I have the CPU card here and its missing a transistor.
 
 i can't find a replacement anywhere.
 
 Anyone have any lisa parts laying around?
 
 it reads : AMPS 4258 EBC
 
 you can see the spot behind it, it's missing .
 \
 Transistor Data Book edition 48, 1980
 
 MPS4258   CRI, SPS, MOTO  p 153 line 15  which says:
 
 Silicon PNP low power
 350 mw collector dissipation
 V cbo 12 V
 Collector max  800 mA
 Hfe (gain)  15
 
 
 I would recommend a very common 2N2907 as a replacement.
 
 From the picture it's not altogether clear that transistors Q1 and Q2 are 
 supposed to be the same type.. A pretty common circuit uses PNP and NPN 
 pairs close together.  The pair to the 2N2907 is NPN type 2N, also very 
 common. (I have a bunch of both here. Use dmcnutt at above off list with 
 Lisa somewhere in the subject.)
 
 A look at a working Lisa would be worth while. Anybody here ??
 
 I also have no idea what the A in front of the very common Motorola MPS 
 means.
 
 
 -- 
 
  Fe++
   //  \
 Fe++  Fe++
 |   ||
 Fe++  Fe++
  \\/
  Fe++
 
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looking for a 128k, 512k, or Plus, really any condition, or parts

2013-04-27 Thread Chris Tofu

Has to have a mouse. But if it's just parts...it. doesn't. I have a keyboard 
but another wouldn't hurt. 

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