Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

2014-08-16 Thread J. L. Trantham
Randy,

Congratulations on your 'new' 3458A.

The 'CALRAM' back-up was just recently covered.  There are two options:  

1.  Remove the NVRAM, read its contents with a programmer, program a new
NVRAM and install the new NVRAM.  I chose that option, installing sockets
for the 'CALRAM' and the two other NVRAM's that are used for other,
non-calibration, purposes.  Be sure to let the NVRAM cool all the way down
before trying to read it.  Learned by experience with that one.

2.  Read the 'CALRAM' via HPIB and the MREAD command (many steps involved
but can be done as a program with your laptop/desktop), use that data to
program a new NVRAM (I suspect there is a way to 'program' the NVRAM by HPIB
as well but I don't recall ever reading anything about it on the list),
remove the old NVRAM and install the new NVRAM.

When I read the contents of the 'CALRAM' with a programmer and with the
MREAD command, they matched exactly.  However, when you do an ACAL, the
CALRAM contents change.

Does your unit have the single EPROM or the 6 EPROM version of the firmware?
Also what version of firmware do you have?  The latest is REV 9.  REV 8 is
'out there' on the net.  If you purchase an exchange display, and you have
the single EPROM version of the A5 Outguard Controller Assembly, the REV 9
EPROM is $24.10 per the Keysight website.  Might be worth adding to the
order.   The 6 EPROM version is $220.

Also, what is the serial number?  You can get a good idea of age by the
serial number.  Also, the various covers inside often will have dates of
manufacture on them and the chips, etc., will have date codes, including the
NVRAM's.

Also, you can add option 001 by plugging some memory chips, specific details
I don't recall right now.

As far as the reading when shorted, I recall the Calibration Manual calls
for a piece of copper wire to short the input terminals.  It looks like a
flying 'U' when properly fashioned.  The Calibration Manual gives the
details, IIRC.

Good luck.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Randy Evans
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 8:40 PM
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

I would like to thank everyone that replied to my query on what to look for
in my new HP-3458.  I did find that the AUTO ZERO button does work fine,
thanks to Bill's comments.  I had looked in the manual, just not far enough.

The display is still perfectly readable but i would like it to be perfect.
I am particularly interested in the exchange display for $272 (better than
$700 for a new one, as Todd suggested).  Does someone have a contact number
at Keysight that I could call (my experience is that one can spend a lot of
time calling around until the right person is finally found).

I certainly need to figure out how to copy and replace  the NVRAM - I lost
the calibration on my Datron 1082 by not realizing the memory backup battery
died and now I need to calibrate it myself (the HP3458A should make that
doable, I hope).  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I believe
it has been covered before on Volt-Nuts and I need to go through the past
discussions to find it.

One question I have for the group is what should the display typically show
with the input shorted?  I see a reading of about -.0025 mV.  That seems
rather high.  I tried several different banana cables (gold plated, tin
plated) used to short the input terminals  to see if thermocouple effects
might be responsible but there was no change in the reading.

Still learning.

Thanks,

Randy



On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 8:06 AM, Jason Watson watson.ja...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I've also seen excessive Guard to Low leakage when varistor RV501 has 
 gone bad (it's located on the front/rear switch pcb and it's possible 
 to replace it while leaving the circuit board in place if you are
careful).
  HP/Agilent/Keysight Part number is 0837-0196, cross referenced to a 
 Harris Corp. V430MA3A.


 On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Stephen Grady 
 grady.st...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Randy,
 
  I have come across a few 3458A's that had leakage between Guard and 
  Low when te guard is in external guard position. This was due to a 
  leaky external guard switch and/or leaky front rear switch. This can 
  be quickly
 determined
  by measuring resistance between guard and low with guard external. 
  This normally in not an issue except when you are using 3458A to 
  measure
 voltage
  with low above earth potential say in a bridge the guard low leakage 
  will be loading other arm of the bridge.
 
  Kind Regards,
 
  Steve Grady
  Sydney, Australia
 
  -Original Message-
  From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] 
  On Behalf Of Randy Evans
  Sent: Friday, 15 August 2014 1:22 PM
  To: volt-nuts@febo.com
  Subject: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A
 
  I picked up a used HP3458A today, which I needed for some precision 
  DC measurements i need

Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

2014-08-16 Thread Jason Watson
-0.0025mV does seem a little excessive, I think that may be out of mfr.
specifications if I'm remembering right.  Charles is right you don't want
to use banana plugs, at least for low dc volts stuff.  The service manual
has a good picture of how you should use a section of clean copper wire to
short the terminals.  Also make sure you've done an ACAL recently and that
the ambient temperature hasn't changed by more than 1 deg. C since doing
it.  The air filter is also a good call, I've seen the internal
temperatures change by 2-3 degrees just by having the air filter dirty.
 Use the TEMP? command to get the internal temperature.  Use the CAL? 58,
CAL? 59 and CAL? 60 commands to get the internal temperatures when the last
calibration was performed.  There shouldn't be more than a 5 deg. C
difference or else there are adders you have to start throwing on the
accuracy spec's.

Finally after all of that the input offset voltage is still high, running a
CAL 0 command in both the front terminal and rear terminal positions with
the input properly shorted will re-'zero' the instrument.  Make sure the
cal security is turned off to be able to run the CAL 0 command.  All that
is well detailed in the service manual too.


On Sat, Aug 16, 2014 at 8:48 AM, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote:

 Randy,

 Congratulations on your 'new' 3458A.

 The 'CALRAM' back-up was just recently covered.  There are two options:

 1.  Remove the NVRAM, read its contents with a programmer, program a new
 NVRAM and install the new NVRAM.  I chose that option, installing sockets
 for the 'CALRAM' and the two other NVRAM's that are used for other,
 non-calibration, purposes.  Be sure to let the NVRAM cool all the way down
 before trying to read it.  Learned by experience with that one.

 2.  Read the 'CALRAM' via HPIB and the MREAD command (many steps involved
 but can be done as a program with your laptop/desktop), use that data to
 program a new NVRAM (I suspect there is a way to 'program' the NVRAM by
 HPIB
 as well but I don't recall ever reading anything about it on the list),
 remove the old NVRAM and install the new NVRAM.

 When I read the contents of the 'CALRAM' with a programmer and with the
 MREAD command, they matched exactly.  However, when you do an ACAL, the
 CALRAM contents change.

 Does your unit have the single EPROM or the 6 EPROM version of the
 firmware?
 Also what version of firmware do you have?  The latest is REV 9.  REV 8 is
 'out there' on the net.  If you purchase an exchange display, and you have
 the single EPROM version of the A5 Outguard Controller Assembly, the REV 9
 EPROM is $24.10 per the Keysight website.  Might be worth adding to the
 order.   The 6 EPROM version is $220.

 Also, what is the serial number?  You can get a good idea of age by the
 serial number.  Also, the various covers inside often will have dates of
 manufacture on them and the chips, etc., will have date codes, including
 the
 NVRAM's.

 Also, you can add option 001 by plugging some memory chips, specific
 details
 I don't recall right now.

 As far as the reading when shorted, I recall the Calibration Manual calls
 for a piece of copper wire to short the input terminals.  It looks like a
 flying 'U' when properly fashioned.  The Calibration Manual gives the
 details, IIRC.

 Good luck.

 Joe

 -Original Message-
 From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
 Behalf Of Randy Evans
 Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 8:40 PM
 To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
 Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

 I would like to thank everyone that replied to my query on what to look for
 in my new HP-3458.  I did find that the AUTO ZERO button does work fine,
 thanks to Bill's comments.  I had looked in the manual, just not far
 enough.

 The display is still perfectly readable but i would like it to be
 perfect.
 I am particularly interested in the exchange display for $272 (better than
 $700 for a new one, as Todd suggested).  Does someone have a contact number
 at Keysight that I could call (my experience is that one can spend a lot of
 time calling around until the right person is finally found).

 I certainly need to figure out how to copy and replace  the NVRAM - I lost
 the calibration on my Datron 1082 by not realizing the memory backup
 battery
 died and now I need to calibrate it myself (the HP3458A should make that
 doable, I hope).  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I believe
 it has been covered before on Volt-Nuts and I need to go through the past
 discussions to find it.

 One question I have for the group is what should the display typically show
 with the input shorted?  I see a reading of about -.0025 mV.  That seems
 rather high.  I tried several different banana cables (gold plated, tin
 plated) used to short the input terminals  to see if thermocouple effects
 might be responsible but there was no change in the reading.

 Still learning.

 Thanks,

 Randy



 On Fri, Aug 15

Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

2014-08-15 Thread Todd Micallef
Randy,

I have had two 3458a that had bad front / rear switches. It was easy to 
determine during the calibration of the Cal 0 that failed. A copper short 
across both of the inputs, as per the calibration procedure, showed more than 
.5 ohm in 2-wire mode on the lowest range. The resistance was not stable and 
seemed to settle slowly. The switches were available and not hard to replace 
but probably not something I would attempt with a ROR unit. 

The pixels can have some burn-in, but I don't know if Agilent/Keysight would 
fail a cal for dead pixels. There was no indication that they looked at this 
during the calibration. They use the GPIB port and probably would fail it if 
the display was not readable during self-test. A call to Keysight would 
probably help. I think the displays are in the $700+ range. That reminds me, 
you should check the GPIB port. Mine was not functioning when Agilent received 
the meter, but then it started working when they bench tested it. It almost 
cost me $2700 .

The ACAL ALL passing all tests would be a good sign, but I am not sure if it 
indicates that the SCAL calibrations will pass. Someone else can probably help 
with that potential issue.

The age of the NVRAM is important. Can you determine when they were replaced ?

Todd
Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 14, 2014, at 23:22, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I picked up a used HP3458A today, which I needed for some precision DC
 measurements i need to make. It passes all the self tests and the Auto Cal
 but is there any thing else I can check ( I have a 14 day RR).  It reads a
 10V standard I made within a few tens of ppm, but it's not a 732A but that
 is at least comforting.  It also reads an ESI 10Kohm standard resistor dead
 on.
 
 The only problem is that the display has some faint pixels in some
 locations, with three in the second row for every digit location dead.
 Likely a pixel driver I would think.
 
 I am not too familiar with it yet but I noticed when I push the auto zero
 button, the display has a blinking square until I hit a measurement mode
 button; e.g., DCV, ACV, OHM, etc.  Is this normal?
 
 Regards,
 
 Randy Evans
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Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

2014-08-15 Thread Stephen Grady
Randy,

I have come across a few 3458A's that had leakage between Guard and Low when
te guard is in external guard position. This was due to a leaky external
guard switch and/or leaky front rear switch. This can be quickly determined
by measuring resistance between guard and low with guard external. This
normally in not an issue except when you are using 3458A to measure voltage
with low above earth potential say in a bridge the guard low leakage will be
loading other arm of the bridge.

Kind Regards,

Steve Grady
Sydney, Australia

-Original Message-
From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Randy Evans
Sent: Friday, 15 August 2014 1:22 PM
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

I picked up a used HP3458A today, which I needed for some precision DC
measurements i need to make. It passes all the self tests and the Auto Cal
but is there any thing else I can check ( I have a 14 day RR).  It reads a
10V standard I made within a few tens of ppm, but it's not a 732A but that
is at least comforting.  It also reads an ESI 10Kohm standard resistor dead
on.

The only problem is that the display has some faint pixels in some
locations, with three in the second row for every digit location dead.
 Likely a pixel driver I would think.

 I am not too familiar with it yet but I noticed when I push the auto zero
button, the display has a blinking square until I hit a measurement mode
button; e.g., DCV, ACV, OHM, etc.  Is this normal?

Regards,

Randy Evans
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Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

2014-08-15 Thread Charles Black

Randy,

I have not been able to do accurate work with banana plugs. Too much 
thermal mass. For best results use  copper wires into the cross holes of 
the banana jacks or small gold plated copper spade lugs crimped on the 
ends of the test leads. Cheap at Radio Shack.  Both work fine. Remember 
to do an ACAL every time you want accuracy. I think my 3458A is about +5 
PPM/C  for four wire resistance (10K ohm) on differences of Temp?.  Also 
clean your air filter and record the Temp? after so you know when to 
clean it again. If you try to use high impedance resistance standards 
(LN Cheap ones) they will not measure correctly unless DELAY = 10 
seconds on my system.


Charlie


On 8/15/2014 6:39 PM, Randy Evans wrote:

I would like to thank everyone that replied to my query on what to look for
in my new HP-3458.  I did find that the AUTO ZERO button does work fine,
thanks to Bill's comments.  I had looked in the manual, just not far
enough.

The display is still perfectly readable but i would like it to be
perfect.  I am particularly interested in the exchange display for $272
(better than $700 for a new one, as Todd suggested).  Does someone have a
contact number at Keysight that I could call (my experience is that one can
spend a lot of time calling around until the right person is finally
found).

I certainly need to figure out how to copy and replace  the NVRAM - I lost
the calibration on my Datron 1082 by not realizing the memory backup
battery died and now I need to calibrate it myself (the HP3458A should make
that doable, I hope).  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I
believe it has been covered before on Volt-Nuts and I need to go through
the past discussions to find it.

One question I have for the group is what should the display typically show
with the input shorted?  I see a reading of about -.0025 mV.  That seems
rather high.  I tried several different banana cables (gold plated, tin
plated) used to short the input terminals  to see if thermocouple effects
might be responsible but there was no change in the reading.

Still learning.

Thanks,

Randy



On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 8:06 AM, Jason Watson watson.ja...@gmail.com
wrote:


I've also seen excessive Guard to Low leakage when varistor RV501 has gone
bad (it's located on the front/rear switch pcb and it's possible to replace
it while leaving the circuit board in place if you are careful).
  HP/Agilent/Keysight Part number is 0837-0196, cross referenced to a Harris
Corp. V430MA3A.


On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Stephen Grady grady.st...@gmail.com
wrote:


Randy,

I have come across a few 3458A's that had leakage between Guard and Low
when
te guard is in external guard position. This was due to a leaky external
guard switch and/or leaky front rear switch. This can be quickly

determined

by measuring resistance between guard and low with guard external. This
normally in not an issue except when you are using 3458A to measure

voltage

with low above earth potential say in a bridge the guard low leakage will
be
loading other arm of the bridge.

Kind Regards,

Steve Grady
Sydney, Australia

-Original Message-
From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Randy Evans
Sent: Friday, 15 August 2014 1:22 PM
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

I picked up a used HP3458A today, which I needed for some precision DC
measurements i need to make. It passes all the self tests and the Auto

Cal

but is there any thing else I can check ( I have a 14 day RR).  It reads

a

10V standard I made within a few tens of ppm, but it's not a 732A but

that

is at least comforting.  It also reads an ESI 10Kohm standard resistor

dead

on.

The only problem is that the display has some faint pixels in some
locations, with three in the second row for every digit location dead.
  Likely a pixel driver I would think.

  I am not too familiar with it yet but I noticed when I push the auto

zero

button, the display has a blinking square until I hit a measurement mode
button; e.g., DCV, ACV, OHM, etc.  Is this normal?

Regards,

Randy Evans
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[volt-nuts] New HP3458A

2014-08-14 Thread Randy Evans
I picked up a used HP3458A today, which I needed for some precision DC
measurements i need to make. It passes all the self tests and the Auto Cal
but is there any thing else I can check ( I have a 14 day RR).  It reads a
10V standard I made within a few tens of ppm, but it's not a 732A but that
is at least comforting.  It also reads an ESI 10Kohm standard resistor dead
on.

The only problem is that the display has some faint pixels in some
locations, with three in the second row for every digit location dead.
 Likely a pixel driver I would think.

 I am not too familiar with it yet but I noticed when I push the auto zero
button, the display has a blinking square until I hit a measurement mode
button; e.g., DCV, ACV, OHM, etc.  Is this normal?

Regards,

Randy Evans
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