Sometimes octal sockets will have less than 8 pins.
If an application was for a tube that didn't use all the pins,
then manufacturers would save money leaving one or two out.
> > Question: can new pins be inserted into such a socket to
> > repair it? If so, where would one get replacement pins?
Jack I have successfully removed pins from other sockets and inserted them
into the desired socket. Look at how the pins are locked in and use either
a set of long nose pliers or a small jeweler's flat blade screwdriver to
remove them.
Then careful insert them into the desired socket. I have
Jim Wilhite wrote:
Just takes a little
work. There is a tang that holds the pins in place. Just straighten it
to get the lock past the shoulder and push the pin out with a tube or
sharp pointed pick.
Do you pull out from the bottom or push up and pull from the top?
js
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PHOTO OF THE WEEK
Jack the end that you solder to is the part that slides up through to the
top of the socket. The little locking tab will be right at the base of the
bottom. The contact that the tube pins slide into come up.
Jim
Jim Wilhite wrote:
Just takes a little
work. There is a tang that holds the
Jack,
You really have a challenging restoration ahead of you. Most people
would just set it aside and call it unworthy of restoration. I admire
your tenacity. I have replaced pins in tube sockets in a pinch, but for
me it was at best a hit and miss process. If you don't get the locking
ta
Jack.
I recently replaced some bad pins an octal socket on a Collins rig.
Ck the rig for other Octal sockets that may have un-used pins.
Take off any excess solder that might be on them using some de-solder braid.
Straighten the pin using needle nose pliers...the pins may have a slight twist
or be
If you haven't done so already look in the tube manual at the tube that goes
into that socket. Some tubes have more than one pin connection for the
cathode. As an example, tubes with a suppressor grid sometimes have that
grid run to a pin and also an internal connection between the suppressor and
c
Jim Wilhite wrote:
Jack the end that you solder to is the part that slides up through to
the top of the socket. The little locking tab will be right at the base
of the bottom. The contact that the tube pins slide into come up.
Thanks. No problem... just gave it a bit of a twist and it pushe
Jack -
It looks to me as though a previous owner broke a few socket pins doing some
repair or modification. It looks like a typical
socket, so you should be able to replace the contacts and fix the problem.
Since you will be rewiring the sockets, you might want to check around and see
if there
Jack, you can remove pins from any of the octal sockets. Look for a socket
that uses the same scheme to fasten pins. If it has been used, that is ok,
just do as previously mentioned by someone else.
Get all the solder off and straighten as needed them remove as many as you
need for the Range
I put 3 pics of the most serious problem areas on my web site:
http://schmidling.com/r_mod.jpgIs a view of the bottom of the mod
tube sockets
http://schmidling.com/r_mod1.jpg Is the way the top looked before I
removed the xtal and cap. I just stuck them back in for the pic.
http://
Hey Guys,
My gen one Ranger has a octal socket for the two rocks accessible from
the front panel (under the cigarette lighter plug).
My guess is that, that part is OK.
73,
Jack
WA9NQW
On Oct 22, 2006, at 1:44 PM, Rick Brashear wrote:
Well, the pictures answered several questions I had. It h
Hey Jack et al: I think the original owner was a CW operator and
intentionally removed the modulator capability so no one would run AM
and ruin the rig.
.
.
.
.
. (just kidding?) 73 DE Charlie, K0NG ..
__
AMRadio mailing list
Lis
I have a dandy problem that I hope someone can help with. I am in need
of the little spring clips that go on the bottom of the VFO tuning pegs
in a Ranger transmitter. I have the pegs, but the clips are gone. Has
anyone come up with a good solution to this? What else can I use? I
thought a
Rick Brashear wrote:
I appears the modulation
transformer is completely disconnected from the modulator tubes.
One end is soldered to one tube but the other is just floating in the air.
I see
you were able to get pin 8 in the two sockets, great.
Actually, pin 8 was there but the fact that
Hi Rick,
I had a 122 VFO with that same issue --- I simply bent a short piece of
enamelled wire roughly into the shape of the clip, & placed into the
fibre/bakelite extenion...
It's still there, doing its thing...
~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
- Original Message -
From: "Rick Brashear" <[EM
Thanks Eddy and to all with your suggestions.
Rick
EP Swynar wrote:
Hi Rick,
I had a 122 VFO with that same issue --- I simply bent a short piece of
enamelled wire roughly into the shape of the clip, & placed into the
fibre/bakelite extenion...
It's still there, doing its thing...
~73~ Eddy
Rick Brashear wrote:
The manuals are sending and I think I have all the sockets you'll need.
I will give it a try but I doubt it will go for 8 M without crashing.
I forgot to suggest that you break it up into smaller pieces.
js
--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, B
Well, the pictures answered several questions I had. It has definitely
been used with a modulator at one time or another since it seems to have
all the transformers and components. I appears the modulation
transformer is completely disconnected from the modulator tubes. I see
you were able t
The manuals are sending and I think I have all the sockets you'll need.
Have a good nap!
Rick
Jack Schmidling wrote:
Rick Brashear wrote:
I appears the modulation transformer is completely disconnected from
the modulator tubes.
One end is soldered to one tube but the other is just floati
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey Jack et al: I think the original owner was a CW operator and
intentionally removed the modulator capability so no one would run AM
and ruin the rig.
Or... had a thing about restorers and tried to make sure it couldn't be.
js
--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmi
Run any tests on the iron to check for shorts or opens? Maybe hook some
B+ through a resistor to be sure no arcing
Larry K2LT drakerepair.com.
Jack Schmidling wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey Jack et al: I think the original owner was a CW operator and
intentionally removed the modul
Larry Taft wrote:
Run any tests on the iron to check for shorts or opens? Maybe hook some
B+ through a resistor to be sure no arcing
Working on it. Checked the audio xformer, two chokes and started on the
power xformer. All ok so far.
Rick talked me into chucking the solid state and putti
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