tyler_durden wrote:
If you replace a refrigerator you spend $800 or more to reduce your
electric bill by $5 per month...
[snip]
It might pay for itself in the power savings in about 30 years.
Erm, simple mathematics would dictate that if you're saving $5/month
after an outlay of $800, it
Check out this link to find out how much your current fridge costs you
and the potential savings when you buy a new one:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=refrig.calculator
-s.
--
slimpy
slimpy's Profile:
Robin Bowes;239164 Wrote:
tyler_durden wrote:
If you replace a refrigerator you spend $800 or more to reduce your
electric bill by $5 per month...
[snip]
It might pay for itself in the power savings in about 30 years.
Erm, simple mathematics would dictate that if you're saving
tyler_durden;239105 Wrote:
Are you nuts?
The difference is that if you insulate an old home, you add reduce
heating and cooling costs by maybe $100-300 per month, depending on the
speifics, and nothing gets sent to the dump. If you replace a
refrigerator you spend $800 or more to
The problem here is simple electricity. If everything is plugged into
the same fused circuit (the fridge and stereo are on the same panel
breaker) that is the first problem. The fridge compressor draws large
amounts of current at start-up no matter how big the capacitor.
Compressor/motor noise
tyler_durden;238355 Wrote:
Getting a new fridge is almost as silly as getting a $5K power
regenerator from an audiophool shop. It sure isn't a way to save any
money (how can you save money by spending money?), and it isn't a
green idea either.
That's like saying you can't save money by
TiredLegs;239004 Wrote:
That's like saying you can't save money by insulating an old home.
Are you nuts?
The difference is that if you insulate an old home, you add reduce
heating and cooling costs by maybe $100-300 per month, depending on the
speifics, and nothing gets sent to the dump.
S2K;238292 Wrote:
Whenever Im listening to my Transporter I hear a very irritating tick
in the music when my fridge is switching on or off. The Fridge and my
audio equipment are on the same power group. The audio is connected to
a power block (don´t know the proper word) which is supposed
The noise comes from the compressor motor. When the fridge turns on
there is a sudden, large inrush of current because the motor looks like
a huge capacitor. That surge puts a transient spike on the power line
that is finding it's way into your system.
The best thing to do would be to
