Read to the end for my answers
Hello Robert and list readers,
Robert you did not mention a year for this Chevy v6 that you were working
on.
I would assume that it is a vehicle with an electronic fuel pump because you
wrote forgot to hook up the fuel lines to the throttle body. The turning
on of
For a couple of bucks, I went to home depot and bought me a door stopper
that I screwed to the bottom of the door. This way I couldn't lose it. The
door leading out the side of the garage to the back has a metal security
door, so I leave the inter door open all the time. But before I put the
why do you think it was slamming due to the garage door?
On Sat, 28 Oct 2006, brice mijares wrote:
For a couple of bucks, I went to home depot and bought me a door stopper
that I screwed to the bottom of the door. This way I couldn't lose it. The
door leading out the side of the garage to
Mark,
Once I ran into this problem and had to buy and install a self-tapping valve
on a line. The copper should be 3/4 inches and it is a job to try to find a
3/4 inch self tapping valve, but they are out there. Most stores carry the
1/2 inch self tapping valves. What I am describing is the valve
Yep we had a Tif tic tracer at the shop and it worked well. Lots of ways
to skin this cat.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] identifying
Do you have the circulating pump running? If so the air should eventually
end up at the highest point, hard to imagine how it could be avoided.
Does anything come out of the bleeders?
Could there be another valve maybe installed when the copper upgrade was
made which is either bypassing or
Robert,you wrote
offul sounding stink boms you call an engine Must times when a diesel is
running out of time they produce black smoke and stink as you put it.
The louder sound is caused by the injection of the diesel fuel. The
compression is higher in a diesel than a gas engine. The fuel is
First of all, it sounds to me like you have a poorly designed system. Good to
hear that you are planning on redoing the system in the near future. A good
plumbing and heating person should be able to correctly solve your problems.
To answer this one specific question: Yes, you can get a
I have an extra 4.3 v6 which runns fine.
I would like to build it up and put it in my s10
I don't really want to go to extreems. I am not looking to over size the
cilenders because of the extra cost of having them board out and the cost of
new pistons and rings.
A couple of things I am thinking
What part of the system is not heating?
Are you sure there aren't any thermostatic control valves on the part of the
system that is not heating? If there are, they could be faulty or set to the
wrong temperature.
- Original Message -
From: mark
To:
Its been many years since I've seen this but they used a rectangular conduit
slightly larger than romex to run the wires on the surface of the walls from
either the baseboard or ceiling to the outlets and switches.
Tony
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
There are a few ways these shower units go together, some screw the tail
down into a fitting which is attached to the top of the sewer. These use a
special wrench I have never owned, someone else will know what it is called
but you pull the strainer out of the drain in the bottom of the shower
Hi,
Today I noticed a bird or something that sounds like he can scratch very
well behind my toilet.
What is behind there?
My plumbing vent on the rough. So he must of fell down there.
Now since it is the weekend I can not get no help.
What can I do other then not go to the bathroom or run water
You are correct, most of the time the wire passes through holes or is
stapled to studs and you cannot use it to pull new wire. I wonder though if
you have the old knob tube? Is the wire in pairs or single conductor
lines?
Usually you would have to rewire with Romex, an armor clad wire since
I don't believe the critter will cause any damage to the piping, nor will
there be a danger of sewer gas getting into the house.. Hopefully it will
not get further down into the drain then you face a posibility of the drain
sttopping up. How to get it out? Good question, some pipe
In spite of what you may have been told or understand, sewer gas is rarely
dangerous. Occasionally some twit dumps something nasty including gasoline,
several years ago a railroad car dribbled gasoline into the storm sewers of
Timmins near here which eventually produced somewhat spectacular
Ah yes, I never think of surface mount. Few people these days consider it
esthetically acceptable in a home environment but it is often used
industrially or inn work shops and things like that. It is a solution though
and a good one where the appearance isn't critical.
Dale Leavens, Cochrane
If you use braille perhaps numbered DymoTape labels wrapped around the
wires?
Maybe spring clips one on each wire but further along each wire in sequence?
clips like those bulldog things they use to hold paper together. They could
be labeled with numbers for reuse I suppose.
Just a couple of
I should clarify that my labor saving comments about the leaf blowers were not
really targeted at someone. It was really more a comment on how our society
spends so much time and effort to create labor saving devices that help pollute
our environment, while we are all getting more over weight
those are good ideas I do use braille and I like the dimo tape idea. I think
I can make some tags that I can twist tie on the wires.
Now what do I do for the cap? I suppose I could cut some boots off an old
set of wires and tie or glue a braille tag on each one.
unless any one has a better idea.
Dale:
Thanks again, the floor is a dirt floor, I am planning on putting a vapor
barrier over the dirt, when I do the insulation. I have used some of that
spray foam in a can, it expands, but it would take a hell of a lot of that
to accomplish what I need.
Could I use fiberglass insulation and
Milton
I happened to notice your email address at the bottom of the email.
Is that Minnesota? or some other state.
Only reason I ask is I am not all that far from Rochester Minnasota. just
curious.
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
Yes the best route is to disconnect the old wiring at the main panel box and
cut it back everywhere you run into it. Check the price of scrap copper and
new wire and you will probably consider pulling out as much as possible to
sell as scrap.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer
I think I would just glue more foam over what is already there. Something
like liquid nail. I have purchased it in gallon cans but I have also had it
in tubes like calking. Go around the edge of the sheet and then an 'X'
across the middle. The hardest part is bracing them in place while the
Dale:
I live in South Dakota, it can get pretty damn cold in the crawl space, my
bedroom is over the crawl space. The walls are pored concrete. I believe
the recommendations for R value is up to R25 in a crawlspace. Seems like a
lot to me though, but I have to do something.
Thanks again, have
Well r30 is 6 inches of fiberglass bats but you would need some structure to
support that I think you would probably be better running two layers of 2
inch extruded poly, up here it is the blue stuff, closed chamber I believe
it is also referred to.
For selected places like under your bedroom
available with decorative covers etc. but i think it is up to
your local code whether or not they permit it. The entire
building in which I work was redone that way in 1998 even
including offices and conference rooms etc. where looks mattered.
If the system is that old you'll probably have to
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