Thanks Bob, at least we're not talking large sums of money. After all,
the rails dont' have to be a thing of beauty since they are on the
side and rear of the house. Well the side stairwell is actually
somewhat exposed from the street only cause the house sits on the lot
at an angle.
sounds like great stuff. Thanks for this.
Is it specific to vinyl, or a small group of materials? I ask as nothing
else seemed to do the trick in your examinations.
Is the standard Acetone the solvent for this, or is there a specific Brand
named solution?
Also, what are the steps of use? Is it a
Bob,
with the 3 foot sections, is it correct to assume that they are figuring
it will be affixed to a brace or flange at the cement, as that might to
too short to sinkk for any stability? Having little experience, I may be
off base here. Please illiminate?
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009, chiliblindman
Hi Spiro,
The best thing to do is go to the web site where I first learned about
Plastic Surgery. It's called Glue Of The Month and you can find it at:
http://www.thistothat.com/gom/current.shtml
Let me know if you need anymore information.
Take care,
Ed Przybylek
From:
Could an A frame help this any? Or, an upright, with a short top piece,
and then a diagonal reaching back to that?
Wondering if running a piece of wood from front upright to back up right,
which encloses the foot of the diagnal upright, bolting that horizontal
piece to the concrete between the
each of you are talking about bolting. are we talking about carriage
bolts? Lee
On Wed, Sep 09, 2009 at 12:01:29PM
-0400, Spiro wrote:
Could an A frame help this any? Or, an upright, with a short top piece,
and then a diagonal reaching back to that?
Wondering if running a piece of wood
Lee,
I think these would be lag bolts not carriage bolts since I assume you
would just be driving them into the concrete and not putting a nut on the
far end.
I've used those bolts that have some collars on them and a flared end.
You slide the bolt in, and as you tighten it, the collars flare
Dan,
How about using those 'seats'with the 30 extensions to set the posts?
I had also thought about the forward motion of the swing. Would it help the
wiggle if I were to take a section of another 4 x 4 and attach it to the
uprights and rest their end on the porch?
Thanks,
Nancy
Hmmm, here's anoher idea...why not make the uprights into a sort of triangle
extending to the back with an extra part of a 4x4 resting on the top of the
porch on each upright.. It is between 3 and 4 feet back before something would
block part of a window. It would still be joined at the top
I'd also put very large washers under the bolt heads so they can't pull back
through the wood.
Tom
nancy,
That would only keep the unit from tipping forward onto the porch. You still
have to keep it from tipping backward away from the porch. I'd favor
diagonals running down and back to concrete bases in the
ground.
I know you used to be able to get swing kits consisting
of chains, anchor
OK, now we are talking! We can make this an elephant swing now. Use the
30 inch spikes with the box on top. Drive those into the ground right
next to the porch. Get your uprights into those, then lag or molly bolt
them into the side of the porch with nice big washers on the head side of
I am wondering what type of hardware would be the safest to use for 1) Joining
the wood 4 x 4 and
2) hanging the swing.
Thanks,
Nancy
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 1:31 PM
Subject: Re:
Spiro, the smaller ones are around 3 feet high (probably longer), flanges are
made to bolt to concrete. The longer ones will take a flange if you want it
to; but, it is long and could be cemented also. Since some steps have a very
long or steep drop, I can see where a longer pole could be
Dan,
If I understand right, you will have wooden steps with a drainage hole under
them. I was wondering how you would reach the drain if it were to clog up
with leaves, etc?
Just curious,
Nancy
All you say is of course true Dan and with a lever ratio like that I think it
would be really hard to keep bolts secure in the concrete.
I have misgivings though about having a swing moving out over the edge of a
concrete platform. Sounds to me like a good way to get a leg broken or someone
to
Why use vertical uprights at all if you are going to use slopers. You build an
'A' frame and cut the front legs off at the suitable height for the platform
and you don't have to connect anything to anything. I have just that sort of
swing Janet is sitting on right now on the newly laid patio.
Dale,
Very good point, if this is a swing for really
swinging, I can imagine letting a foot down just too far as you come
forward and getting it caught on the edge. Could propell one's
little blind face right down on the concrete porch.
If this is just a lovers swing, it might not be so bad,
Nancy,
There will only be two wooden steps, and they won't be rigidly mounted to
anything, but will be sturdy on their own. I will be able to pull them
out if necessary, to get to the drain. I might also consider hinging the
lowest front riser so I can flip it up and access the drain.
--
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