By the time you get everything fixed, someone will come along and want to buy it. Be a shame to sell it then . Nothing for the other person to do.
Tom,
The ride hieght is usually in the middle of the traveltoo high,
and it hits the stops, too low, hits the ground. As far as the quality, it
rides just about the same as it did stock...little different feel, but just as
good. I didnt use a kit, I took it to a place called Bio Kustumz
thanks Shawn yes i was talking about priming the engine oil its a brand new engine and has been sitting for awhile, i have been trying to do a turn key restoration try to finish every last straw before i turn the key, i have restored cars in the past where i drove the car while i was finish the las
You can do the suspension piecemeal. I did the spindles first, then
the A arms and springs a few years later, then the shocks and sway bar
last. Cost is about the same if you get the 12" brake over the 11"
F-body swap that I did (there was no 12" factory parts when I did
mine), so you may as
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> Please remove my name from this list.
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> Raymond S. Lewis
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Tim:
What air bag system did you use, and what ride height do you typically
ride at (what "feels" the best). I'm considering an air bag system on my '66
elky which would allow it to be lowered, but I've heard the ride can be
harsher the lower you go. I guess I'm asking if you really need the dr
Thanks Tim; I think those two systems would be great to have - to achieve
the updated ride and handling that I am looking for.
Now it's time to figure out how much $$$ I have to put towards this; I also
been trying to figure out ultimately what brake system (kit or individual
pieces) to use as well
Please come by my place and wash my car.
--
Dennis Kiernan
San Francisco
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Thanks,
Bob French
- Original Message -
From:
Bill
Lessenberry
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 9:01
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Please
remove
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Please
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Thank you,
Raymond S. Lewis
Didn't we JUST do this
Graham,
Personally, I would do the Global West/Hotchkis system, so that gives you the great
ride, but do the drop spindles. It really doesnt effect the geometry of the
suspension. I did the drop spindles when I did the disc brakes...although I only had
that set up for about a 15 mile drive befo
Please remove my name from this list.
Thank you,
Raymond S. Lewis
I have an appointment to get my alignment on my '65 in the morning,
but I'm out of town, and forgot my Chassis manual. They do not have
the specs in their system, it only goes back to '73.
What is the MIn/Max Caster Camber and Toe angles.
I'm not sure what Secondary Angles are, but it also a
Good point Brad.
I went with Global West as well. Although, I can't confirm the improved
handling yet since I haven't drive the car with the new suspension. I can
only day dream for now!
Matt
At 04:50 PM 9/30/2004, you wrote:
Handling also depends on the geometry of the suspension. Taking a s
Thanks Brad and Matt for the replys. This is exactly what I am looking for, as
I was unsure on how either system would be beneficial.
Thanks again,
-Graham
Quoting Brad Waller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> Handling also depends on the geometry of the suspension. Taking a stock
> '67 setup and lowe
Hmm that reminds me, I suppose driving back and forth from work with only
one seat, bolted down with two bolts and no seat belts might be in violation
of some law or another. Thanks for the reminder John!
-JB
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Handling also depends on the geometry of the suspension. Taking a stock
'67 setup and lowering the springs will compromise a lot of things, and
you will still be stuck with the less than desirable 1967 suspension
geometry. If the drop spindles have the same basic geometry as the
stock spindles, t
I think it depends on the ride quality you want. If you use drop spindles
with a stock spring rate, your ride will feel the same as stock. Using
stiffer drop springs, the ride quality will be harsher.
Matt
At 03:59 PM 9/30/2004, you wrote:
So I am on the kick right now on getting an updated su
So I am on the kick right now on getting an updated suspension put into my 67
SS. I have been going over all the different parts and have a question.
If one was to go about lowering the chassis/body - say by two inches, I see two
options for the front:
Springs that have been reduced by 2"
Battery is fine.
Blinkers also working fine now w/ a new flasher ($1.85 retail).
Got my exhaust pipe leaks re-welded today and they are fine now. There's
still a small leak at the heat riser. I can't really tell if it's the riser
or just the gasket. I'll try just the gasket first since it is much
Jim,
As far as I remember, the 'Generator' light will stay on until the circuit 'sees' positive voltage coming from the charging system. This is just an idiot light that replaces an amp or volt meter.
When you are talking about 'priming' the engine, are you talking about building up oil pressure be
Good ideas Brad.
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Make sure unit is mounted 10-12 inches off floor.
Is this because air is coldest at floor level?
Found the thing iced up yesterday and it wasn't that cold.
(low 60's)
The drain hose was kinked so maybe it was backed up.
Pete Geurds
Douglassville, PA
John,
Did you get the battery checked?
Also is the flasher slow with car running or off, or both?
Hopefully they still make the HD flasher which doesn't care how many bulbs are in
circuit. In the old days you could put wrong flasher in and turnsignals would flash
slow or fast; and even right flas
? here im doing the final wiring on my 69 chevelle everything check out ok i have not started the engine yet i need to prime the engine real good be fore to touch it off my battery new, when i turn the key to the on position the generator light come on in the dash is this like supposed to stay o
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