The container says it's safe for clear coat but doesn't specifically say
anything about enamel. It worked great on the El (base coat/clear coat) but
even though it makes the paint on the Vette (17 year old enamel) feel
smoother, it obviously doesn't have the same look as the El when it's done.
Thanks Larry, I really appreciate the kind words.
Alex LaRue
LaRue Insurance
Personal Business Insurance
Collector Car Insurance
Life Insurance
P O Box 119
Hodgenville, KY 42748
800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978
Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net or www.LaRueClassics.com
Join
Thanks Mike, I really appreciate the kind words.
Alex LaRue
LaRue Insurance
Personal Business Insurance
Collector Car Insurance
Life Insurance
P O Box 119
Hodgenville, KY 42748
800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978
Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net or www.LaRueClassics.com
Join
Thanks John, I really appreciate the kind words.
Alex LaRue
LaRue Insurance
Personal Business Insurance
Collector Car Insurance
Life Insurance
P O Box 119
Hodgenville, KY 42748
800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978
Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net or www.LaRueClassics.com
Join
I am in the market for new rear end gears for my 70 Nova that now has a 2.56
(stock). I plan to get a 3.08 posi since I have a 700-R4 and the rpm's are
only 1,450 @ 60 mph now and the 3.08 should raise that to 1,740. This car has
a RamJet 350/350 and it's my highway cruiser.
Any
I have one sitting in my garage that I invested over $2k in several years ago
and I haven't been able to sell. It has about 10k miles on it. There is
someone out there that would like a correct numbers matching engine for a
restored car but they are difficult to find. I would like to install
It's time to insure my 65 SS for stated value.
Larry Williams
For a 65 SS I prefer an agreed value policy.
Emil Dusek:71 SS
Yes, it's made for base/clear. Do the test by wiping
you hand over the panel after a wash and then again
after the clay application.
mike
--- J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is it able to be used on any paint? 2 stage or not?
Jim
--- mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Great
The best way for the 68 and 69 is to do it by hand. The stencil kit for the
70 won't work well on the hood. Would work fine on trunk though. I've done
it before, curve the outer edge on the nose and tail like the 70 but keep
the width constant the whole length.
Trooper
- Original Message
Mine doesn't have clear on it- it's single stage.
Don't know if this would do more harm than good or
not. Sounds like great stuff though!
Jim
--- mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yes, it's made for base/clear. Do the test by wiping
you hand over the panel after a wash and then again
after
In a message dated 9/10/2006 10:49:15 AM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
It's time to insure my 65 SS for stated value. My AAA rep likes Condon
Skelly. Any of you guys have experience with them? Thoughts?
Larry Williams
i am also with Condon, i like them too, haggerty would
correct me if wrong, but there are a couple ways to do the powder coat, one with a primer powder coat and one without any primer???
i would think the primed way would be better
Harlan
I've never heard of a powdercoat
"primer"
I know of some places that zinc plate or galvanize
before they apply the powdercoating though.
The biggest problems with powdercoating is poor
prep work (cleaning, degreasing, etc..) and improper cure time/
temperature.
I powdercoat stuff all the
I just purchased a 327-300hp 1967 Chevy engine and a 326 Pontiac engine for
three hundred for both.
Both engines are in excellent condition but I will likely rebuild the Chevy
and sell off the Pontiac.
This is in N.E. Ohio. 283 in need of overhaul likely worth 100=150 here also.
gm66
---
Put one in your 67 and see if you can out hop me
John! : )
Dan McIntosh90'd out 1983 Fleetwood Coupe
Street Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, September 11,
I used the
Eastwood powder coating kit for my suspension parts. I also used the Eastwood
red primer and chassis black for the frame. The frame needs to be prepped; I
used 3M wheels, cut the rust great. POR will work also but is a bit messy to
work with. POR only requires degreasing and
I have had some frames galvanized with no problems.
The trick is not to have the final step of oil quenched done and not to let it
get wet until its painted or coated. The whole
process doesn't run much more than having a frame just stripped.
- Original Message -
From:
Jim
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