Richard:
My wet exhaust muffler is original SS (1984). Currently it is not
leaking either water or gases but the weld joints on the muffler are
corroded. The SS muffler might last for years, however, every off
season, I replace something on the boat that I feel will 'prevent' a
problem down
That's way better than any other prices I have seen. Is the area price
protection not being enforced any more? Do they really ship to Canada?
Inquiring minds want to know.
On 16 November 2012 14:57, Rich Knowles wrote:
> That's better than I can do.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
>
Paul:
Thank you for this info on Yanmar exhaust parts. Even with the
'international' shipping cost of over $100 for this part, it is still
less expensive than the supplier (Liftow) here.
Rich, I am still interested in your supplier and price of the parts as well.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 8
I'll get it Monday. Out hauling moorings in Chester. Beautiful day flat water
and 10 kts.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2012-11-17, at 11:29, Robert Abbott wrote:
Paul:
Thank you for this info on Yanmar exhaust parts. Even with the 'international'
shipping cost of over $100 for thi
Anyone got any tips on patching awl grip. I have a number of deep scratches and
the bottom edge of the transom to repair. The awl grip was put on by a PO so I
don't even know what its original color was. I see from the Awkgrip website
that they offer patch-up quantities of a very limited range i
I have done some repairs on my Awlgripped hull with International Perfection
2 part polyurethane, applied with an artist's brush. I was able to find a
reasonably close color match off the shelf and I applied some with the
brush, let it cure, then sanded lightly and reapplied to build up thickness.
One of the important factors for me in choosing to own a C&C 35 MKII was
something called "motion comfort factor" in the sailing calculator
predictions. I knew that I would be mostly doing cruising versus racing with
the boat but nevertheless I wanted a boat that had a reasonably high
predicted spe
When I was having measurements taken for a new mainsail, the sailmaker
commented that the sail track on my 1972 CC 35 mk2 begins nearly a foot above
the boom. The sail track is obviously cast into the aluminum mast, but has been
machined away so it begins well above the boom. I had always assum
Easy solution. Have the sailmaker stitch a couple of stainless steel rings
either end of a strop of webbing that goes through the reef cringle. Put one of
the rings over the horn when reefing
--
Jonathan
Indigo - 35-III
On Nov 17, 2012, at 17:51, Eric Frank wrote:
> When I was having measure
Either that or have him put the slugs on a tack line. My cruising main has
that. The slugs stop 8-10 inches above the boom but the tack line allows
enough slack for the cringle to pull down to the gooseneck.
Dennis C.
>
> From: Indigo
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-lis
Eric:
The track on my boat is similar to yours. When I reef, I remove the pin that
keeps the slugs from dropping off the track, slack the halyard allowing the
slugs to drop out of the track, attach the reefing cringle to the "horns" at
the forward end of the boom, and tighten the main halyard
I have a stainless plate that screws onto the mast and fills the space. It
allows the slides to slide all the way down (usually).
Joel
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 17, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Alan Bergen wrote:
Eric:
The track on my boat is similar to yours. When I reef, I remove the pin
that keeps th
Eric,
I installed a Tides Marine strong track on my C&C 34 a few years ago and love
it. I do a lot of singlehanding and this track makes raising and lowering the
main by myself a snap. It cost me about $1000 but was worth it.
Chris T.
C&C 34 Quasar
- Original Message -
From: Alan B
Yes Eric, same on my boat.you must be about 5'7" or so tall, 6 footers
probably have no problem like you describe with halyard attachment or
mainsail cover. I have my first reef line lead to the cockpit.it goes
through the cringle in the sail from stbd to port and attaches to the mast
below the bo
That's a hard way to reef, Alan, especially considering that when you need a
reef the conditions are not that nice for work on deck
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Bergen
Sent
Eric,
The track starts so high because the boat originally came with roller reefing.
The luff of the main sail at the tack is cut back so that as the main sail is
rolled about the boom, the bolt rope would roll in contiguous turns rather than
pile up on itself. This also requires the bolt ro
Alan Bergen wrote:
Eric:
The track on my boat is similar to yours. When I reef, I remove the
pin that keeps the slugs from dropping off the track, slack the
halyard allowing the slugs to drop out of the track, attach the
reefing cringle to the "horns" at the forward end of the boom, and
tig
Your talking about a mast gate - like this:
http://www.beneteau235.com/f235_mods-mast_gate.htm
sam :-)
On 2012-11-17, at 8:32 PM, Bill Connon wrote:
> Alan Bergen wrote:
>> Eric:
>>
>> The track on my boat is similar to yours. When I reef, I remove the pin
>> that keeps the slugs from droppin
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