Corrosion?
-Original Message-
From: "Brad Crawford via CnC-List"
Sent: 2014-08-15 12:55 AM
To: "'Martin DeYoung'" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
; "'Raymond Macklin'"
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.
I had a similar issue this last weekend. We m
I started having problems with my 2GM20F a couple of seasons ago.
Turning the key would often produce nothing, then suddenly after 4 or 5 tries
it would crank OK.
Replaced all the battery/starter/1,2,all switch cables - 3 or 4 premade cables
from my local auto dealer - Canadian Tire. Cables are
I have had similar starting problems. The biggest difference from what
others are describing is the operation of the key.
On mine during a normal start sequence, I turn the key to on, low oil
pressure alarm sounds, I press the start push button, engine starts, alarm
stops.
When the start sequen
I had a similar issue this last weekend. We motored from Elliott Bay to Port
Ludlow, set the hook, shut the engine off, about a half hour later I decided to
relocate the anchor. I depressed the starter switch and nothing happened,
tried a couple of times, no start. So we stayed put figuring I
"wished I was dead"
Been there in 1972. It was Seagrams VO in my case. I attribute that for my
avoidance (to date) of alcoholism. And maybe sailing a little cause that is
hard to do when you're just a teeny unbalanced..
Skip
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cn
Joel
You might want to talk to “Mamock’s . They are on Legion Ave in Annapolis. I’ve
used them several times and found them easy to work with.
Don Wagner’'
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List
I recall having all these symptoms except death one night at the tender age
of 16 after an unfortunate altercation with a large amount of Ripple. Just
nearly dead. Wished I was dead.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
I have over the years had excellent luck having a local shop rebuild my
alternators and starters. There are many around if you look for them. Usually
small shops sometimes working out of their garage but you can tell very quickly
if they know what they are doing. I think I have saved without exa
Hi Danny,
What is your electric fuel pump doing in all of this? is it a pulse type?
The reason I ask is after relocating and isolating my pulse style
pump I could no longer tell what is was doing, so I moved it back to
the under cockpit sole supported location. Here I find it will give
me a r
I think the whole group are poisonous. They all cause nausea, vomiting,
blindness and then death.
With ethanol, the blindness and death are pretty close together and death is
the ultimate blindness.
We just try to manage the nausea to achieve the carefree feeling.
Here's to the grand experiment!
I had a similar issue with a 1980 C&C 36’s 3 cyl. Yanmar after a night passage.
The electrical load from the running lights and other nav equipment caused a
fuse located at the back of the engine to blow. The fuse was in an in-line
holder as part of the wire harness. This was approx. 20 years
Found an 80 amp:
http://www.go2marine.com/product/115711F/small-frame-alternator-diesel-only-yanmar-80-amp-12v.html
On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 1:19 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I think 50-55 amp alternators would be easy to find. I got rid of my AGM
> batter
I think 50-55 amp alternators would be easy to find. I got rid of my AGM
batteries and went back to gel. IMHO
Gel are much better.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 14, 2014, at 11:25, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> If you go for AGM, you will probably need some other source of chargin
Danny,
In my mind, you have already eliminated the carb as being the primary source of
the problem (you have had the same problem with both carbs). my next effort
would be to use a 5 gallon OB tank with new plumbing (don't use any of the
existing fuel lines or filters) and a clean carb. I'm thin
g the loss on selling.
>> Your equipment list holds up well for PNW 3 season cruising.
>>
>> Once you use the boat in the PNW waters your vision of what features will be
>> important on the next boat will become more focused.
>>
>> There is an active C&C
Marek,
I do have shore power, so that's not an issue.
Joel
On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> If you go for AGM, you will probably need some other source of charging
> the batteries, as well. This depends, very much, on your way of
If you go for AGM, you will probably need some other source of charging the
batteries, as well. This depends, very much, on your way of using the motor.
But if you motor for a limited time only and have no shore power, your
batteries would hardly ever be fully charged and AGMs don’t like it one
Might be a good time to consider installing a battery isolator. That will drop
the effective output voltage by at least 0.6 volts, and you don't have to worry
about the position of the battery switch for engine charging the batteries.
14.4 volts is not bad for alternator charging of flooded cell
Careful getting a new alternator with internal regulator if you are
planning to get AGM batteries. The AGMs need slightly different charge
profiles to ensure maximum longevity. The charge profile of the internal
regulator won't be able to be changed. Also the internal reg won't be able
to be pro
You can buy brand new yanmar alternators on ebay for ~$100. It sounds like
the sensing line might just be bad. Where did you measure 15v? I would
remove, clean and inspect all of the connections to the alternator. Then
with the engine off verify that the voltage at the alternator matches the
ba
Good choice on the AGM. They have proved them self to me.
On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> All,
>
> My alternator is putting out too much voltage (15 volts) It s a 35 amp
> Apco with an internal regulator. Rather than trying to have i
Danny, I had a similar issue with my A4 a couple of years ago. I felt that the
issue was an air leak in the fuel system. After checking every connection I
could think of, spending money on a mechanic, installing a new, electric fuel
pump, etc. I decided to pull the fuel tank. When I took off the
All,
My alternator is putting out too much voltage (15 volts) It s a 35 amp
Apco with an internal regulator. Rather than trying to have it rebuilt I
am thinking of buying a new alternator. Is there a higher amp alternator
that will fit the single pulley without breaking the bank? I don't want
Okay, Given all the discussion, I've decided the next step, as it is really the
only thing I did not replace, is to buy a 5 gal outboard engine gas can and run
the engine with a brand new gas can and brand new gas. My gut is leading me
back to the tank and the pickup tube. I think this will eli
Danny:
While not A4 specific, these examples might help solve your engine problem.
A fellow C&C lister had a C&C 24 with an inboard Volvo Penta gas
engine..the engine simply would not start, or stay started, with
anything but Volvo Penta spark plugs. He can chime in and tell you the
stor
Yes, in the wiring loom facing the front of the engine the harness will
have an inline fuse. it runs from the Starter to the start switch.
I will send you a link to the diagram.
It's a 30 amp fuse. Sometimes it needs a good cleaning sometime a new fuse.
I keep 3 or 4 extra on the boat as spares.
Hello:
I have a 1985 C&C 33-2 with a Yanmar, Diesel 2GM20F engine. I was sailing
last night and started the motor like normal to get out of harbor.
However, when I went to come back in to the harbor. I proceed to follow
my normal process. I put the transmission in Neutral and reached down to
t
I was in Bacon's yesterday. They had a 23 ST for sale for 275. They rarely
get self tailers, so I thought I'd let everyone know.
Joel
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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