Hey guys,
That seems like good idea for a song...
I've looked at love that way.
Cheers, Russ
At 11:47 AM 13/10/2014, you wrote:
I really dont know clouds
at all. :^)
Haulout tomorrow
:^(
Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
O
I rebuilt The mast on my 26 a couple of years ago.
Mast cap had to come off to get access to the sheaves like yours.
I got 3 custom sheaves built from here:
http://www.zephyrwerks.com/
$38 each - delrin with brass bushings - perfect fit.
sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
On 2014-10-1
Hi
The 29-1 does not have the side access ports to the sheave axels. Argh.
mast cap off While at I rewired the mast lighting, VHF etc as a bundle
Don
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I apologize for my ignorance since I don't own a 29-1 but most
Hi Ian,
M I did this job on my 29-1. Mast down, mast cap off. dollars for Harken
halyard sheaves. The fit required some minor widening and cleaning up of the
cast. This was part of a program to ease halyard control and effort.
Replacement mast base blocks, organizers and clutches added
Re 2. No question that you should replace the set screws (they work once and
that's it). However, in the meantime, you can reposition the "rotor" and
secure it with the existing set screws plus an extra protection. The
simplest might be a hose clamp (I would not recommend to keep it there, but
it w
I apologize for my ignorance since I don't own a 29-1 but most of the
sheave and axle arrangments I've worked on did not require removal of the
mast cap. The arrangement I've seen has the axle (a smooth and straight
stainless rod) pass completely through the mast and kept in place on both
sides by
With the Landfall 35, there apparently is no separate shower. So how do
owners manage?
Also, is it the same hull as the 35-III?
Thanks
Randall Walford
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To change your
Greetings from the San Francisco Bay. I have been very quiet on this list
for a while but now I am need of some advice from this very knowledgeable
group.
I have replaced my jib halyards with Endura and have peeled back the cover
for about the length of the forestay. Unfortunately the halyard fa
Tom:
Your electronic bilge pump switch shouldn't be mounted to the bottom of the
bilge. Try lifting it a bit to see whether it solves your problem. If the
sensor on the switch is always in the water, it will never shut off, and the
bilge pump might not be getting the water low enough. These sw
I don't trust check valves on bilge pumps. Had one stick shut while on a cruise
and learn CYA course off of the west coast of Vancouver Island. Once unstuck it
worked fine again, but no idea why it stuck in the first place. Tricky to
diagnose and unpleasant mucking around in the bilge but at lea
I was in touch with the technical guy at Marsmetal (Bill Souter) and sent
him some photos. His opinion is that there has been some water seepage over
the years into the sand core which these keels have (I didn't know there was
one and neither did the yard here). He thought there could have been som
Second the suggestion of a pump problem.
My bilge filled up during a recent hard beat in the 4 foot chop we get in
the Neuse River (long story - my fault) and the pump was not putting water
overboard. I have a 1000 GPH Johnson cartridge style pump with about 24 feet
of hose that outputs under
My primary pump (read not the big one) is a Whale diaphragm pump which
lives in the head. There is a Y valve which when switched pumps out the sump
for the shower, which has never been used. This pumps out the side about a
third of the way back from the bow. I just replaced the hose to the pump
f
Sounds like something is wrong with the pump. My check valve holds water
and the hose is propably as long as anyone's. The pump has no problem.
Make sure you are using the correct diameter hose and minimizing other
possible restrictions such a kinks.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomo
Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long
discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check
valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge pump
can't do its job... thanks
Richard
Richard N. Bush
1985 37 CB;
No separate stand up shower though on the 35's or LF38's. Washing down the
entire head is not my idea of enjoyable. You might find an older 40 for
about half of what the 37+'s go for. Or look at the 34/36 (34+). It is
the 37+'s little brother. They both perform almost equally. The 30 is the
e
Josh
I am looking on a budget. I did look at a 37/40 in Hamilton recently but it
is way too big for me and the draft was something like 7 feet. Forget the
ICW or Bahamas…. A few years ago had a C&C 32 but found it was suited best
to weekends. The Landfall 35 seems to have more storage, larger gall
I redid most of my rod rigging about 9 months ago on a 1981 C&C 36.
There are some things that you should get carefully checked out (which I
did not do prior to buying my boat). For example, my spreader tips were
really corroded, and had to be replaced.
In redoing the rod, we replaced the fittings
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Tom,
I had the same symptoms on Cat’s Paw last fall. Turned out that the rubber
bellows was probably quite old and was very stiff. You might consider a new
bellows and SS rotor from PYI. They also sell an additional SS clamp which is
attached just in front of the rotor and which clamps onto
No, no backflow valve. That was going to be my next attempt to fix the problem
if changing the pump angle didn't work.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
-Original Message-
From: Fred
Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line? Until I put one in,
the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again. My line
from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Cr
Hi
For a singlehander on Lake Ontario who wants to cruise but doesn’t want a
teak palace slug – any advice as to what to look for?
Thanks for your help.
Randall
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To c
Hi Tom,
I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to
switch off. It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new
one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had
the same problem! But then I played with the angle o
>> If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
>> detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in
>> position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then
>> install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first
Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to
install an anode on the shaft up against the rotor.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
det
OK, for the bilge pump switch. Is it this one?
http://www.electricmarine.com/web/bad_practice.htm#bilge
I prefer the USS Mini Bilge Switch. Bottom one on this site:
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price
I usually wire a Rule Manual-Off-Auto bilge switch to the terminal for o
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in
position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then
install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw
and make
Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems
along the way. But I have two maintanence issues.
1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems
Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the
bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when
w
... but clouds got in my way
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 3:10 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Before you send everyone your pictures, consider uploading them to a site on
> the net – check out Photobucket, Picaso, etc. and then send everyone the
> link. Not everyone wants to see them, but those
Before you send everyone your pictures, consider uploading them to a site on
the net – check out Photobucket, Picaso, etc. and then send everyone the link.
Not everyone wants to see them, but those that do can easily view them on your
photo gallery.
Sending pictures uses a lot of bandwidth and
Joel,
Any way of telling the C&C group from others? Anyone planning on being there?
Best,
Dave in the show...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 7, 2014, at 8:53 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> OK guys, my suggestion is that we meet at the Fleet Reserve Club upper deck
> around 4:00 Mo
I really don’t know clouds… at all. :^)
Haulout tomorrow… :^(
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Oct 13, 2014, at 12:57 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List
wrote:
> I've looked at clouds from both sides now...
>
> Wal
_
I had a problem similar to Jake's. When the boat was out of the water, I could
wiggle the keel from side to side. There was also the C&C smile. We dropped the
keel, and flushed out the forward keel bolt hole from below. Horrible smell,
like Jake experienced. The yard ground the top of the keel
years.
>
> I love the boat layout etc. But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
> pleasure!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> David.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Dawes
> Captain
> Newport, RI, USA
> +1(401)5854942
> dawes...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
at are alternatives? What is a rod replacement
> cost approx? And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective
or
> too heavy? Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.
>
> I love the boat layout etc. But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
> pleasure!
>
> Many thanks,
What's a photo cloud? Is that anything like cloud computing, which is a
recently revived buzz word.
No clouds here today, it's hot and clear, but I did get in the kayak and
finished waxing the starboard side before 11 a.m, when it was starting
to get really hot. We do get clouds rolling in a
Jake, you may as well send the pics to every one, we'd all like to see the
plate! Thanks
Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-Lis
Hi
Would you mind sharing on a photo cloud?
Don
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 1:16 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Jake,
>
> If you send the pictures to Doug, please add me to the list.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bruno
> 33mkii
> Becassine
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
>> Le 2014-10-13 à 12:34,
Jake,
If you send the pictures to Doug, please add me to the list.
Thanks
Bruno
33mkii
Becassine
Envoyé de mon iPad
> Le 2014-10-13 à 12:34, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List a
> écrit :
>
> Doug,
>
> How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking? Is there seepage from
> under the mast?
>
David: Just my 2 cents worth..
Since you're in Newport RI, you have way more rigging expertise at your
fingertips than most of us on this list.Newport is full of competition
boats and riggers and such. Find someone local and have them look at the
rig.
MY 38MKIIC is a 1977 vintage
Doug,
How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking? Is there seepage from
under the mast?
I went through a similar repair about ten years ago. We dropped the keel,
drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
steel post (about 1 ½" in diameter). The keel bolt n
Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race
David,
If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the
rig, removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec
shop. You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it
to an "X" made of 2 x 4's for transport. UPS will ship it.
You did
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