Hi Brian,
That amount of rusting is not bad. Follow through with your
intentions and all will be fine.
I suggest flat black paint is appropriate for a heat exchanger.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island
At 04:28 PM 21/01/2016, you wrote:
While working to r
The refrigerator is cooled by transferring the heat overboard to a coil.
This one is showing signs of corrosion, but the zincs are near perfect. Did
a previous owner neglect changing the zincs at one time? Do I need to
replace this at this point? Interestingly one model of this heat exchanger
is a
While working to remove the rusty exhaust mixing tee I noticed significant
rust on the oil cooler exterior.
I decided to remove it for inspection.
Here are some pics:
http://i.imgur.com/JRncLOQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R9HJv2k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mboAyhP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LG1CBoV.jpg
http://i
Ryan,
My hollow rudder stock was egg shaped from PO's tightening the tiller over
the years. Two years ago on the hard I propped the rudder from below and
removed the tiller. I used a BACC (big arse C clamp) and returned the
stock to roundish. When I reinstalled the tiller, I through bolted it
t
On our C&C 27 I ended up with a large fender washer between the tiller and the
rudder post it was a tight fit, but eliminated a very annoying slop due to a
very tiny gap that tightening the bolt could not remove ….
Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club
From: CnC
You could install a pump remotely, in a locker or cabinet and then run a hose
into the bilge. It keeps the pump high and dry and might even be able to
remove more water to a lower level.
I installed two whale gusher pumps that way on my Viking. It worked well and
very little water drained bac
> Hello everyone,
> Sorry for the duplicate post if the last one went through! Just curious if
> anyone has experience tightening a loose tiller on a 30 mki or similar boat.
> My tiller steers the boat just fine, but there is some some noticeable play
> in it from side to side.
>
> Not sur
On my 25, I installed a bilge pump in the sump, and connected it to the old
refrigirator line, which was long gone but the remainders of the manual
pump and the line was still there, running to the transom.
Ahmet
On Thu, Jan 21, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc
Not real clear where the play is. It looks like there are at least 4
interfaces which need checked to determine the feasibility of reducing the
play.
1 - Wood to metal plates transition on the tiller.
2 - Metal plates on tiller to rudder stock head (square).
3 - Rudder stock head (square) to r
Alex,
on my old C&C 24 I had a manual pump that was installed on a piece of plywood
dimensioned so that it would fit as a replacement to the first step up the
companion way. One could imagine a similar arrangement for a electric pump.
In my case, we were storing that pump in the “head” area, wh
Hello everyone,
Just curious if anyone has experience tightening a loose tiller on a 30 mki or
similar boat. My tiller steers the boat just fine, but there is some some
noticeable play in it from side to side.
Not sure if this is helpful, but there is a photo of my tiller where it meets
the
Greetings,
I have been thinking about installing a Rule bilge pump as a companion to the
existing original manual pump. There is not much room and I am reluctant to
start cutting holes in the cabin floor. The issue is where to route the hose.
Have any of you done this on a 24 or 25?
I am lean
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