Astute observation, Francois. The 1,2, and 3 cylinder Yanmars seem to have
consistent problems with the exhaust mixing elbow getting clogged by carbon
deposits where the cooling water is injected into the elbow. And it is not a
salt water problem.
A friend's 29-2 with a 2GMF15 was completely bl
Hi Lorne,
How long has it been since you took the exhaust mixing elbow off and took
a look at it?
My mixing elbow was severely constricted / became completely sealed and it
cost me an impeller + a whole water pump and hoses before I figured it
out. The clog caused the pump to run at really h
Looks like standard automotive heater hose.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListDate: Wed, Aug 10,
2016 19:24To: C&C List;Cc: Josh Muckley;Subject:Re: Stus-List 33-2 heater hose.
(water heater)
L
Looks like hose we use at work. We call it boston marathon but I think the
real name is boston marathoner made by eaton.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 10, 2016 9:54 PM, "Dave Syer via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Hi all,Any idea what this hose is? Similar to yer basic
Hi all,Any idea what this hose is? Similar to yer basic heater hose, but
with an extra jacket. Thanks!
Dave
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/08/what-is-this-hose.html
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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The impeller could be so old that the vanes have taken a set and it takes
time for them to get the pressure up. It could also be that a majority of
the vanes have torn off already. Double check the belt tension too. It is
surprising just how little belt slip it takes for a diminished pump flow.
yes, its a 20GM or MG20. Fresh water cooled, uses anti freeze and a raw
water pump. I don't think 1 minute would hurt since there is water
circulating via the fresh water pump, but not sure how long the raw should
take to kick out water.
On Wed, Aug 10, 2016 at 9:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
You have an inboard? Have you replaced the impeller? Having no other
details it doesn't a minute does not sound ridiculously long to wait. I
would keep an eye on it though and definitely replace the impeller if you
don't have a record of its last replacement.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C
Lorne,
It should start almost immediately or with 10 seconds or so. There is usually
water in the muffler already from the previous day that hasn’t evaporated. It
should only take a few seconds to develop enough exhaust pressure to push some
out, along with the water that is coming in from
When I start my boat after it's been sitting for a few days it seems like
it takes maybe a minute before the water comes out the tailpipe. How long
is reasonable to wait? I have no heating issues.
Lorne Serpa
C&C 30MKII 1988
Friendship, MD
___
This lis
Had the same thing happen to me last week, slightly under-inflated
dinghy filled up when the bow dug in. Now I pull the plug on the
transom, it has a flap to keep water from flowing in but drains itself
when moving.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 8/10/2016 2:56 PM, Dennis C
On Wed, Aug 10, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:
> I let enough of the painter out when under way so that the dinghy surfs
> down the wave created by indigo. I feel that this reduces the tension on
> the painter - and thus the drag.
Did that once with a slightly under-inflated ding
As has been touched on, in reasonably calm conditions, tow the dinghy so it is
going uphill on the first or second stern wave. That will keep tension on the
tow line. For longer passages or ones where we anticipate rough weather, we
lift onto the foredeck and lash it in place. It's a pain in the
I tow an inflatable from time to time so don't know how relevant this is to a
hard dinghy.
I have an long purpos built dinghy tether / painter with 2 attachment points at
the dinghy. I let enough of the painter out when under way so that the dinghy
surfs down the wave created by indigo. I feel
Our dinghy tows best on the backside of the 1st or 2nd stern wave. That
way the bow is pointed upward so it doesn't dive.
Dennis C.
On Wed, Aug 10, 2016 at 11:16 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> We have a hard shell dinghy. How long should the tow line be? We had o
Always remember, and NEVER forget: When you are approaching anywhere you
will be stopping, even briefly, first pull the dinghy up close so you
don't wrap the painter around your prop. A floating painter is not 100%
protection from this issue. ;-)
Bill Bina
On 8/10/2016 1:13 PM, S Thomas via
The recommendation I was given during a CYA training trip was to let the
painter out one wave length in order to get both the dingy and the mother ship
on the same part of the wave and reduce jerk loads on the painter. That advice
presupposes that the waves are somewhat regular. I have no idea w
Bev,
I work for a rope manufacturer and we get asked about tow bridles quite often.
The only time I recommend a tow line to be longer than 25’ or so is when the
dinghy is being towed by a boat that is fast enough to generate a sizeable
secondary wave behind the stern. In most boats that would
I have seen people keep the painter very short. To the effect that it is
lifting the bow of the dinghy out of the water. When I had my dinghy flip
it was because of following seas. I surfed down one wave and slowed when I
reached the trough. The dinghy however had not reached the trough yet and
We have a hard shell dinghy. How long should the tow line be? We had one
incident when it turned over. ___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contri
I'm going to go with the West Six/Ten cartridge. It does not need to be
wetted and is more pliable than regular epoxy. If only it cured as fast as
G-Flex.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 9, 2016 at 9:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Might have to play with it but the slightl
That is really cool –
‘Cept it is booked for that weekend.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 4:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stu
Milwaukee is the one I'm loosely familiar with.
Josh
On Aug 10, 2016 10:40 AM, "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My rigger uses a portable right angle drill for hoisting him/crew up the
> mast. He likes the Milwaukee brand for ~$300-400. He used it to remove my
> ro
My rigger uses a portable right angle drill for hoisting him/crew up the mast.
He likes the Milwaukee brand for ~$300-400. He used it to remove my roller
furling recently with his crew hoisting him skyward with the drill and a #30
Lewmar 2 spped ST winch. He was afraid the winch would no give t
I have a Milwaukee right angle 24vdc drill with a winch chuck. Works well
enough to lift a 200 Lbs person from the deck to the masthead on my 39TM
twice before having to change the battery. However, you must use a 2 speed
in low gear to make it work correctly
It doesn't work so hot when used to tr
Josh,
So have I. The Makita seems to be the tool of choice, but she wants
something smaller/lighter/easier.
Joel
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donati
Joel,
As for winch-rites I've heard people on cruisers forums talk about using a
24v right angled drill. If actually costs the same or less than the
winch-rite AND you get a drill out of it too. I'll see if I can find more
info.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 10, 2
Josh,
Thanks. I'll look for them. Admiral wants a Winch-Rite which they also
sell.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 9, 2016 at 11:48 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Following the link isn't exactly intuitive, but the boat show tent and
> land locations are shown and then you h
Thanks Fred and Bill. The loop and a wire tie around another supported
masthead wire(s) is a great idea.
Brian
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Freder
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