Only if you have the right battery size and chemistry... Or like replacing
batteries regularly.
Josh
On Sep 12, 2017 10:15 PM, "coltrek via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Ditto. I I thought you got a high-output alternator, so you could charge
> up quickly with a shirt engine run
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill
Ditto. I I thought you got a high-output alternator, so you could charge up
quickly with a shirt engine run
Regards,
Bill
Original message
From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Date: 9/12/17 21:26 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stu
Potentially boiling your batteries and shortening their lives. If they are
lead_acid limit the output to 25% of the smallest bank capacity. Gel = 30%
and AGM = 40%.
The larger alternators also put excessive loads on the bearings since you
have to tighten the belt in order to keep it from slippin
Because a 120 amp alternator working at ½ max output will last a lot longer
than a 60 amp alternator working at full output.
Rick Taillieu
boatless
Cedar Island Yacht Club
Kingsville, Ontario
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37
via C
Wow! What am I doing with a 120 amp alternator?
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault
> On Sep 12, 2017, at 9:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> The alternator should be limited to the changing capabilities of the
> batteries. Standard lead-acid would be 20 - 25% of capacity. S
The alternator should be limited to the changing capabilities of the
batteries. Standard lead-acid would be 20 - 25% of capacity. So a 100Ah
battery should not be charged at a rate greater than 25 amps. I have a 400
Ah bank and a 200 Ah bank. My 90amp Balmar alternator could exceed the
rate for
For the task you describe, you'll benefit from one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI
or the Lowes Kobalt equivalent:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-35-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set-with-Hard-Case/3387640
Working from a bosun
Tony,
My 1986 mast appears to be a one part enamel of some kind. I've used
Brightside enamel for touch ups.
My masthead sheaves are accessed by taking the cap off the top of the mast.
The cap is held on with a couple of Philips screws (on the top). The axles
are captive in a recess in the
I scoped the fuel tank inside (after pumping out old fuel) and outside with
an automotive inspection unit with LED light before putting Tapestry into
service. The exterior was pristine and the interior without pitting. I
would do the same prior to replacement, or without access to a scope,
obtain
I had a perko unit on Pegasus, swapped it out several years ago when I was
cleaning it and it fell apart in my hands. Replaced it with the Grocco unit.
Rebecca Leah has a Grocco installed above the water line. Thinking of adding a
fitting to the intake hose, to allow using an air pump to blow ou
Agree with Rick. Universal diesel are configured that way today. Press
the pre-heat button activates the glow plugs, silences the oil pressure
alarm and provides power to the starter solenoid.
Dennis C.
On Tue, Sep 12, 2017 at 12:00 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
Ditto. Aluminum on damp plywood with no airflow is ad undesirable
situation.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc
Ron;
Yes, there is a voltage drop from B+ to ground when the glow plug button is
pushed. But the current is flowing from B+ to a glow plug relay and then to
ground, and not through the glow plug button. The button passes a current of
only an amp or two to close the relay.
If the voltage
FWIW, My boat's engine strainer is a glass walled strainer with wingnuts. It is
located high up in the engine compartment and I believe the top is at the
waterline.
> On September 11, 2017 at 1:51 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Patrick,
>
> Yes that's the unit. The bolt
My aluminum tank sits on drydek panels and that sits on a starboard shelf. If
you let aluminum sit on wet wood, it WILL corrode.
Could be worse - our original ternplate tank, after providing rust to clog
things up, let go for good one night and dumped a full tank of gasoline into
the bilge. My b
The bottom of my tank had a bunch of pin holes in the flat part. The seams
were fine.
Gary
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus
Before buying a new starter I would try jumping the big terminals on the
starter with a big screw driver and test the starter. If it fails to jump into
action or hesitates, there are rebuild shops around that rebuild starters and
alternators for cars and boats. I had mine rebuilt in 2005 for $75
I have been talking to boat owners at our club about these decades old
aluminum fuel tanks many of us C&C'ers have.a few have had the tanks
leak (or weep) as they call it. The leak(s) were not caused by the
bottom(s) rusting (as aluminum does not rust, it corrodes) ..the
leaks were cau
The marine insulated started is usually insulted when the owner finds
out the price. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 03:50 AM 12/09/2017, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_CY1PR11MB0968EEB56BFB81BA4B3DC59FCE690CY1PR11MB09
Does anyone on the list know whether the C&C masts in 1986 were painted with a
one component (enamel) or two component (urethane) paint. Ours is a C&C 41 with
a Cinkel mast.
On another topic, the masthead sheeves need to be replaced. Does anyone have a
diagram or info on how to replace. There
There is a difference between a marine starter and the non-marine equivalent.
Often the bearing are different and it is differently insulted.
I suggest reading on Maine Sail's web page.
Marek
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