There’s a C&C 25 participating in the R2AK. Team RHO Your Boat is a C&C 25 with
2 pedal stations. Per R2AK.com they are in 11th place. The tracking web site
shows them near Seymour Narrows.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Port Ludlow/Seattle
I forgot to mention that the line coming down from the grommet goes through
a padeye on the bottom of the boom, slightly aft of the position where the
grommet comes down to the boom when reefed,.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Jun 18, 2022 at 10:59 PM ALAN BERG
Run the reef line from the end of the boom sheave up through the grommet,
down and under the boom, and tie a loop with a bowline around the line that
is coming out of the boom end sheave.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Jun 18, 2022 at 3:55 PM David Knecht via Cn
I find that it helps if you tie the reefing line to the boom a bit aft from
where the reef cringle ends up. This way, the reefing line pulls the reefed
clew towards the aft end of the boom.
Btw. It seems it is blowing everywhere (20 - 30 kt here).
Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON
Sent from m
Touche's boom does not have the capability for internal lines or
purchases. Touche' has a track on the starboard side of the boom which
accommodates an adjustable reefing block. There is an eyestrap on the port
side of the boom. The reefing line is run from the eyestrap up through the
reefing cr
Dave,We rigged a block and tackle inside the boom then the tail out the boom to
a cleat on the side of the boom It gave the purchase needed to get the clew
down and tight. Worked on the 29. Cheers,Hank
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
On Saturday, June 18, 2022, 6:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-
Arlet likes Minwax, polyurethane, satin. Or glass. I used that inside . .
Sea Fox, and it held up great for as long as I had it. I imagine it is
still holding up great. Polyurethane is just fine inside, & it wears like
iron.
Bill Coleman
On Sat, Jun 18, 2022, 14:10 Matthew via CnC-List
wrote:
I have always found that tough to do as well, the initial tightening of the
reefine.
And sometimes, I still forget this, but once I just let the main sheet
free, I let the boom go where it wants, I can just tighten up. The boom
always ends up higher than you're used to, so I think there's a tenden
We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig their
reefing lines. I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and reefing
line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom. When I want to reef, I have
generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and aro
I've switched to awlwood. It does not have the same yellowing tendency as varnish and it looks really great! You can hot coat it after the primer is cured. It is very expensive, however. DannyOn Jun 18, 2022 2:09 PM, Matthew via CnC-List wrote:Listers: I know this topic has bee
15 years ago I revarnished the interior with an exterior satin poly urethane. I
did the trim with gloss. It has held up remarkably well.
A key a good job is prep. Sand and wipe down well.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 18, 2022, at 11:36 AM, Barry McK
Try Pettit Sea Gold. Requires a sealer but the product itself is water
based and dries in about 40 minutes. You could get the job done in one day.
Barry McKee
C&C 29 Mk I "Discovery II"
From: Matthew via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: 18-Jun-22 2:10 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc:
Listers:
I know this topic has been covered before, so please forgive
my ignorance. Although I don't ordinarily varnish my interior teak ply, I
plan to do so around the companionway to protect against water. I'll likely
use a satin finish. What type/brand of varnish would you
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