Joe,
I like the idea of a 3 way toggle switch and ring terminals! Hopefully it
will fit in the hole where the current switch is.
Joel
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:51 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge
I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge pump and
cover the joints with heat shrink tubing then tie the soldered wire joints
off high in the bilge close to the cabin sole. The positive wire is
connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery with in line
fuse a few
My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but
I suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few
things that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on
their own. The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and
squeeze the
Joel,
Not that I know of. Touche's bilge switch is high up in a bulkhead in a
secure place where nothing will fall on or contact the back of the switch
or the wires. The push on connectors are Ancor and fit tightly. The wires
are secured in a manner that there is and will be no strain on the
: 12/16/19 11:14 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson Subject:
Stus-List Bilge pump switches While we are talking about bilge pump controls,
is there a switch that does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors? I've
zip-tied so they are not likely to get pulled off, but it is still
While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that does
NOT use the crappy slide on connectors? I've zip-tied so they are not
likely to get pulled off, but it is still only a friction fitting.
If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
--
Joel
