Fellow listers,
I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint.
She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and
have raised the hull a few inches. The forward bolt is still draining (
and it smells?).
The most aft bolt is the one that was leaki
Try Vaseline on the bolt
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of David Swensen via
CnC-List
Sent: August 27, 2020 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Swensen
Subject: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3
Fellow listers,
I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. She
d Swensen via CnC-List
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> *Subject:* Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3
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&g
You should separate the boat from the keel. When I had mine done, there was
a huge void around the forward keel bolt. The yard hosed out the hole from
underneath, and it smelled really bad. Then they ground the stub and the
top of the keel, epoxied the keel back onto the stub and filled the void
wi
Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1
I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.
You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts. One advantage of
this vs wax i
I had no voids and I did not separate the hull and keel, but this would have
made excavating the filled part much easier, in addition to being able to
address the keel to hull joint.
I would reassemble prior to adding any compression posts and refilling the keel
void of course. Wrap the joint
tc.
Hope that helps, best of luck.
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
De : CnC-List de la part de David Swensen via
CnC-List
Envoyé : 27 août 2020 14:10
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : David Swensen
Objet : Stus-List Freya Keel work
Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure on
them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have them
made out of stainless.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
> Ple
Alan,
Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically
fiberglass and epoxy.) The rated compression and deflection strength are
competitive with any other material. Especially when you get to the 1/2
inch thickness.
No?
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On T
Wow. You guys are awesome. Great info. Dave S, Your blog will be my bible
over the next couple of months.
I get the impression I should rebed the keel hull joint before addressing
the mast step cavity. But I should drill into that cavity to accelerate
the draining/ drying first? Each time I raise
I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled putty.
That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material etc etc etc but
I do know that my 33-2 wedges are not used on all the bolts and where not, the
compression bears on the layup via a fender washer. This sugg
Thanks for your kind words and to Bruno for his but that write up and solution
is based on the help I received from others on this list (referred to and
quoted on the blog) who had addressed the problem before I did. All I did was
document that and my own variations on their themes. Credit
I have heard of one case where concrete was used to fill the void under the
mast step
On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 10:55 AM Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
> I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled
> putty. That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material etc
> et
bolted it up and it has been great
for over a year.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 9:55 AM
To: Josh Muckley
Cc: Dave S ; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3
I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a d
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