This is like trying to top Justice Thomas's deep concern for SCOTUS credibility.
The worlds eugenicists must be shaking in their jackboots #Snork
If you see something - say something
Au Freecall 1800 123 400
Bounty Killers are loose and any prediction market on a law enforcement officer
is also an assassination market on that LEO.
Only without the wit, charm, good-looks and intelligence
https://www.queerty.com/straightest-guy-nick-fuentes-says-sex-women-gay-internet-just-cant-20220513
“If we’re really being honest, never having a girlfriend, never having sex with
a woman really makes you more heterosexual,” Fuentes said,
We need to strike at dictatorial regimes. If you can only do it alone, do it
alone. But by all means fight. I hope we can bring it all together and
coordinate so that this popular struggle can bring concrete political results.
Boris Engelson for pramen.io
Support the Anti-Authoritarian Squad
Well as you set off on your nihilist pathway of self-loathing that few wish to
follow, don't forget to take Nazi-Punk with youse
Happy chemtrails
The Cycles of Revolutions in Our Midst
The world is fragmenting and changing in all different directions.
Unfortunately, contemporary America is offering no guidance.
By Victor Davis Hanson
https://amgreatness.com/2022/05/15/the-cycles-of-revolutions-in-our-midst/
May 15, 2022
We are
Mathemagician Rex waves a wand over an empty platter.
With a burst of sparkles, the platter fills with numbers!
"Dang, I wanted cookies," mutters Mathemagician Rex.
I'm guessing you could perform the same 1-hop many-nodes approach to
specifically counter the impact of a circuit.
Check out my new article:
https://litigationfinancejournal.com/global-electricity-cartel-faces-class-action/
Global Electricity Cartel Faces Class Action
Burford Capital is funding litigation exploration of a potential claim that
alleges that some of the world’s largest electricity cable makers
One factor this working depends on would be whether or not tor has put
efforts in place to mitigate it.
Assumption: you have a statistical model for behavior via a circuit,
possibly crafted after the attack.
1. Completely exhaust bandwidth via as many tor nodes as possible, ideally
by crafting
turns out there was far more than 70 of them, related to my perception of
funny client behavior.
this was the head of the flurry.
On Mon, May 16, 2022, 3:51 PM wrote:
> Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list cypherpunks
>
> We have received a request from 185.129.61.1 for
This was the tail of a flurry of maybe 70 removal confirmations received
within a span of 3 or 4 minutes or so.
When I scroll down past them, my mobile gmail client jumps scrolling and
return me to view them.
On Mon, May 16, 2022, 3:59 PM wrote:
> Mailing list removal confirmation notice for
having trouble continuing. just kind of seem to keep sitting here when I
try to stand up.
maybe i've accomplished so much, the remaining parts are less important.
so:
mark the broken relays as broken
add voltmeter displays to the motor side of the relays
tape the relays onto the motor
put away tools etc no longer being used
it's working a little better now. when it breaks I have some ideas of what
to improve.
one of my tricks is tying some cord with a little slack to the end of the
coathanger to hold it in place. this gets twisted but reduces the bending
of the coathanger, and doesn't slip off.
it basically works, but not enough to use.
roughly, I tried to do it all use one length of cord, so it's hard to
adjust things to improve it.
it helps if the incoming cord doesn't travel too high or low, slipping off
the coathanger, but if this is done by a loop of rope hanging too close to
the
It turns I ran the cable poorly. It's affixed with the motor base, then
goes onto the "spool", so when it turns it pulls on itself.
This arrangement would work better with a pulley setup where the load is at
the midpoint of the cord.
Alternatively I could tie the cord to the "spool" straight.
I reseated a cable and tested things again, being careful.
It turns out the multimeter is sometimes giving a bit of a delay before
showing the 12v voltages, showing 0 while the wire touches 12v for half a
second or so.
Anyway, the motor turns now!
I have not yet reversed it to unwind the cord,
I might be misleading myself in some way.
12v seems to be working. When I measure vs ground on the psu, I get 12v by
the motor. But I don't when I measure from nearer grounds.
This is strange, because the 5v circuit was running fine.
I'm likely making errors with my hands confounding the
I'm not measuring voltage on the 12v wire going to the relays. That's
thing-to-address 1.
I've resumed working. My multimeter has alligator clips, which I have
clipped to jumper wires. It's hard to measure the motor voltages, possibly
relating to carefully insulating things this time.
It could help to clip to something else than jumper wires, not sure.
I could also set the relay on,
I'm having trouble continuing. When I attempt to, my muscles are
contracting, and I experience a strong sense of itching.
I've wired the working relay board. This one has a removable jumper
bridging 5V before and after the optoisolator.
The relays click when powered, but the motor isn't turning. First thing to
check is the connections and voltages to it.
AXIOS
Liz Cheney: House GOP enabled "white nationalism ... and anti-semitism"
CNN
Liz Cheney just called out her fellow Republicans over the Buffalo shooting
Ah, antisemitism - the core policy of Nazi Germany. That brownshirt shit. Feh!
so: stand up, get the other relay board and duct tape, return, move the
wires over
when the device is oscillating, making its noise, the relay only gets about
30mV DC measured by my multimeter, compared to the 12V DC wired in.
so it's time to replace the relays, and be more careful.
there is a good chance the optoisolator here broke, but not the relays
themselves.
while the relays are running, the 5v that powers them stays steady.
i'm guessing I shorted something that overvolted or reverse polarized them.
ground and 12v were both exposed, so shorting that could have given them
-7V.
I try not to leave things exposed like that when working. I tricked myself
the power supplies and cables are providing the right voltage when not
loaded.
>
when I power the relays, both of them make a constant noise rather than a
click.
>
> , something shorted in an unsourced burst of smoke.
>
when this happens of course it's imperative to immediately cut all power to
anything that could have made the smoke, which I did. not doing that can
burn down a building after breaking more devices.
>
I should check voltage levels and functionality around the power system to
see what broke.
When I wired the 12v to the second relay, something shorted in an unsourced
burst of smoke.
I shouldn't have wired it while powered. Then I could have tested the
wiring.
I'm not sure why this happened, given the signal for the second relay is
not grounded. I wonder if I simply knocked something
given this are cancelable maybe there's a path to autoreplying with
cancellation.
-- Forwarded message -
From:
Date: Mon, May 16, 2022, 1:32 PM
Subject: confirm 06199da0bdf0da849191d0f14e78027b97999893
To:
Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list cypherpunks
On Mon, May 16, 2022, 1:29 PM Undiscussed Horrific Abuse, One Victim of
Many wrote:
>
>> https://lists.cpunks.org/mailman/confirm/cypherpunks/f9756270b281a65cadcd4355810f49a019119733
>>
>
> time to be responsible and move to a building with new locks -- I mean
> resubscribe !
>
Turns out you
>
>
> https://lists.cpunks.org/mailman/confirm/cypherpunks/f9756270b281a65cadcd4355810f49a019119733
>
time to be responsible and move to a building with new locks -- I mean
resubscribe !
-- Forwarded message -
From:
Date: Mon, May 16, 2022, 1:03 PM
Subject: confirm [censored]
To:
Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list cypherpunks
We have received a request from 144.217.80.80 for the removal of your
email address, "gmk...@gmail.com" from the
" . . . More than any other cryptocurrency, stablecoins pose the biggest threat
to government fiat-based money systems. . . "
https://decrypt.co/resources/what-are-algorithmic-stablecoins
I heartily accept the motto, “That stablecoin is best which uses least fiat”;
and I should like to see it
I think things are set up so I can actually do that rewiring while the
motor is still lashed.
I guess I'm going to have breakfast now, though.
This is a tough puzzle for me nowadays.
I'd enumerate the paths of connection and judge if this is reasonable to do
with 2 relays.
Motor => Forward wiring
Motor => Backward wiring
The two wirings can't share an unswitched connection to the motor, as this
would cause a short.
So, to do this,
Best way to end a war against some drugs is to win it - hasta luego, narc
The current wiring has GND->COM1, NO1->MOTOR-, MOTOR+->12V.
To make it go backward, I would connect MOTOR+->GND and MOTOR-->12V .
I have 2 relays with 3 pins each. Each relay can reswitch one thing to one
of two other things when switched.
The currently relay has ground, so I could make it wire
I moved things around and lashed it in place, although I made errors
lashing.
There's some "boy scout" way of lashing that uses "wraps" and "fraps"
=wraps/2 that i've learned. I did it wrong, but it works enough.
I tried turning it on and it worked for a bit, but I didn't notice some of
the
Thomas Crane Wales (June 23, 1952 – October 12, 2001) was an American federal
prosecutor and gun control advocate who was the victim of an unsolved murder.
In 2018, FBI investigators announced they strongly suspected the killing to
have been carried out by a paid hitman.
With me not having many IDE cables, it's frustrating figuring out how to
power and mount it at the same time. I'm spending some time considering
this.
An anarchist using the online moniker “Professor Rat” has threatened the lives
of two federal terrorism investigators in Denver, advocating that they “need
killing.” The threats name an FBI agent assigned to the local multiagency Joint
Terrorism Task Force and the government’s lead prosecutor
I've wired the relay to turn the motor on! It's like a built a robot!
>
I gotta affix it to the motor now so the small wires don't get ripped. I
plan to use duct tape.
I found the black electrical tape in the place I return it to, but in a
different spot than I expected.
>
One thing I often consider when I suddenly cant find things is feeling
around with my hands. I have an issue where looking for something can often
prevent me from seeing it. It's pretty nonintuitive and also get inhibited,
the feeling around, so this only helps occasionally because it's very hard
I've removed 5V from the input signal VCC, seems to work the same without.
I don't remember the schematic but thought there could be a small chance I
was shorting it when grounding the input signal.
I'm wiring it to the motor, and i've misplaced the black electrical tape
I'm using for when bare
When disconnected, the relays conduct between COM and NC. So I can put 12V
on NO.
I'm not sure if I detect a smell coming from it when the signal is
grounded. I wonder if I should have a resistor in there.
I've wired ground and powered it. It clicks harshly (higher frequency from
hobby relays I'm used to) when the signal is grounded.
I've cut female square jumper wire and connected the 3 5V points to an IDE
power plug.
Next: ground.
it looks like red is 5v and yellow is 12v. I have a 5v device without a
yellow cable.
it looks like with IDE, it's female plastic housing that's device side, and
male plastic housing that's supply side. this is a device, so I want female
plastic housing.
I think it makes sense to wire up an IDE power cable first, and then I can
verify the onness and offness of the relays relative to a button.
>
basically, all the VCCs are 5Vs. When IN* is connected to GND, the relays
switch load pin2 between load pins 1 and 3.
I'll need a 5v supply, so an IDE power plug would make more sense than a
12V SAE plug.
as I get near completion, my muscles start contracting harder on their own,
making it hard to continue. I also keep experiencing sudden experiences of
considering doing something else.
Yes, on a closer look, each relay handles 30VDC load. I need only one.
Looking at the specification, it looks like the relays are designed for
signal isolation, and the 5V is provided as the control voltage, not the
actual load voltage.
https://web.archive.org/web/20181125095912/http://modtronix.com/prod/mod/mod-rly2-5v_schematics.jpg
It would actually be workable
It turns out each relay shares the same power supply, so the best I can
divide them from 12V would be 6V. It might work. It's unfortunate.
I think this relay board is
https://web.archive.org/web/20180511044152/http://modtronix.com:80/mod-rly2-5v.html
I've put the relays and buttons with the motor to help me find them again.
I'll try to look them up and make a plan for wiring them.
The relay boards are marked "2 Relay Module" "2PH63091A" .
Each relay has 3 screws labeled "NO" "COM" "NC" and 4 header pins. The
header pins are labelled "JD-VCC" "VCC" "GND" / "GND" "IN1" "IN2" "VCC" .
One of the boards has a removable jumper bridging JD-VCC and VCC.
I found a bag of small buttons and a box of 4 relays (2 per board) each
specd for 5VDC.
this is 12V, so I'll want 3 of those relays in series.
these wires are thinner gauge than the power wires for the motor, so
ideally i'd use a switching component to make them control it. i'll try
looking for one in this room a little.
i've twisted the lengths together into two wire-like lengths each hopefully
about 24 feet long.
I put the bare lengths all on one group so it could be connected to ground.
it was hard to get the foil and braid to stay end-to-end, so I added a
fisherman's knot, which is just an overhand knot on
There are four insulated wires in here, red, black, white, and green. The
white and green wires are corded around each other, maybe 2 wraps per inch.
There are 3 exposed grounding and shielding wires, a braid, a length of
foil, and an uninsulated wire. They're all about 7 feet long.
i've peeled the outer insulation off the serial cable.
I had labeled it with duct tape that it was broken. I had freed it enough
to peel by just pulling, and when I got to the duct tape the insulation
broke instead of the duct tape ripping. it's interesting this duct tape was
stronger than this
to separate the data lines of the serial cable i'll want a blade to
manually strip the outer insulation. I have a box cutting knife nearby.
it's also nice to have diagonal cutters for cutting wires. i'll find those
too.
>
> I have a long broken serial cable. this will work to make wire.
I found more cord. i'm thinking the nyansat "electronics fun" kit would
have a button, but i'm not finding it. makes sense to focus on wires. maybe
a broken appliance or something?
I have some heavy gauge ac power solide core wire somebody discarded
outdoors. I could destrand it but i'd need to
I got enough cord to try it out and ended up returning indoors :/
the missing part is a button. in case it works. if it doesn't, all I need
is a good spool affixed to it.
switches are tempting but could result in me being physically wound around
a spool. so, buttons are preferred here.
I can
I've plugged it into a power supply and it rotates the coathanger :D
The gears make a retro whirring noise. I can hear something slightly
slipping inside it. I infer that's normal since I've never loaded it yet.
i've bared the wires and found my little bag of indoor wire screws
when something is hard to find one of the thinds I do is to turn on my cell
phone flash to help my eyes kick in more, even though it's daytime, and
just check out all the areas with it
another I thing I do is visit areas that
i've found a load-side sae cable. the wire gauge is way too thick for the
motor current but it will work. I also found fancy-shmancy wire strippers.
i'm thinking i'll connect it with wire screws to start, or event just tape
the wires together. I also have a soldering iron here.
i'll put the items
i've affixed the coathanger to the shaft.
while i'm in this room, i'll look to see what options I have for wiring
power to the motor. i'm using 12v SAE plugs which can often be found at
auto parts stores.
i've bent a coathanger to connect to one of the brackets!
the way my hand contort, opposing muscle groups contract simultaneously,
and it leaves them sore. I imagine the muscle groups get strong but it
doesn't help much unless I can separate their behaviors somehow.
the bracket I connected it to
Known as the “Mr Big” of the city’s crime world, he was found dying outside a
home in Greenacre, with police calling his murder a “meticulous assassination”.
Like Tarek, police had also warned him of a $1 million bounty placed on his
life.
my mother did jewelry and my father did soldering. I learned to use needle
nose pliers at a young age.
however, my neurological issues result in my hands forming weird
contortions when I try to move the fingers independently here, and I keep
dropping the pliers.
the mounting screws don't have
it makes sense to get a long skinny shaft since I have this mounting thing,
but since i'm doing this right now, i'm thinking of other solutions.
I could glue or otherwise affix a dowel to something flat, possibly.
I could buy a dowel from a hardware store.
I could use a pencil.
I could use a
a spool is basically two flat discs with a dowel between.
the skinnier and longer the dowel, the more force it will pull with, as the
radius reduces.
ideally the other end of the dowel is held by something, to reduce stress
on the motor structure
I think it is a bringsmart 5840-3650 , possibly with an 8mm shaft and
70kgcm torque https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F8Y36PD
i'm thinking 70kgcm still implies i'll need a gear or pulley to make it
effective, although I could tie a rope to my ankle and see if it would drag
me. it would need a
Elise Stefanik pushed 'replacement theory' that inspired Buffalo shooter. Got
free ride in media.
No. 3 in GOP House leadership, the New York Republican is more influential than
Cawthorn, Gosar, Greene and others. And promotes white supremacy just like them.
a bracket is already attached
there is space to extend the shaft. this is not set up.
there are also two small dc motors in the box.
the bracket can mount the body of the motor, and affix a plane normal to
the motor shaft if 4 hours are drilled in the plane
so a right-angle bracket might work
the box is labeled "powerful motor" and right now is under a box labeled
plastic bags", about 6 feet from the inner side wall and 2 feet from the
back outer wall
I believe the motor is in a labeled container somewhere in the room with
the broken coreboot computer.
as I think about this, I remember such a motor could also be wired to a
rope that pulls. this could even use a pulley system if it's weak.
it takes me hours to reconnect to my body and stand up in the morning after
sleeping.
some years ago I searched for a device that would push me out of bed.
somebody had made an "ejector bed" but they weren't selling it.
I bought a cheap high-torque motor more recently. I don't know if it's
triangle
https://www.nationofchange.org/2022/05/15/poison-for-the-people-how-an-exiled-activist-is-countering-russias-propaganda-machine/
Repost NOT endorsement!
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