I've had light dimmers provide a good bunch of gunk. I forget if I was
testing NB or DSP units with the one we had. BTW not all light dimmers are
bad news. When I changed the one I reference above with a new 3-way dimmer
switch, all the noise went away. Package said it had a noise filter in
Lee,
Wire up a relay to act like a buzzer. That should generate some good
ignition-like sparking at the contacts.
Ken, WA2LBI
On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 02:00, kc9...@aol.com wrote:
Gang,
I need to test the noise blanker in my R-4CIs there an easy way to test
it?
No ignition noise here,
From: kc9...@aol.com kc9...@aol.com
Subject: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 2:00 AM
Gang,
I need to test the noise blanker in my R-4CIs there an
easy way to test it?
No ignition noise here, no
Lee -
Easiest is to connect a piece of wire to the antenna jack, then drag the
other end along a grounded surface. A file is great if you have one,
but just scratching along a piece of metal works. Switch the blanker on
and off in SLOW AVC and you'll the see the average. Then on FAST AVC
On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 9:54 AM, J. Steven Cochrane w7...@msn.com wrote:
If you LOVE the mellow sound you probably won't like the DSP audio
filters.
That's exactly what I was thinking, although
Digital recordings that were originally recorded on analog media sound
marginally better to
My C-line line JUST came back from Ron WB4HFN. He did an excellent
job at a fair price:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/Services/WB4HFN/RepairHomePage.htm
73 Brad WF7T
On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 8:10 AM, y...@aol.com wrote:
Would like to send the B-line out for service,alignment and a good go thru.
Can
Depending upon what you want it to remove.
For background noise removal, I use this one:
http://bhi-ltd.com/index.php/products/noise-cancellation-products/item/noise-cancelling-pcb-modules-low-level/nedsp1061-pcb.html
It can be used in the Rx audio line or the microphone audio to remove
Hi Lee,
Is your R-4 the ...just-plain-ol'-original-R-4 version, with no A, B,
or C suffix...?
If so, welcome to my world! Hi Hi. One doesn't hear too much about the R-4,
it seems---but to me, it's the one that started it all, Hi Hi.
~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
PS: YES, I agree with you 101%!
On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 11:07 AM, Diane and Edward Swynar
deswy...@xplornet.ca wrote:
Is your R-4 the ...just-plain-ol'-original-R-4 version, with no A, B,
or C suffix...?
Yes Eddy, it's an R-4, no suffixactually the first one I've ever
listened to...I had used a lot of C-lines in the
My set of Drake Twins were a R-4A a T-4X, worked my first 230 countries
using them between 1977 1981. That was when and where I was first exposed
to the beauty of passband tuning in fighting qrm.
Don Jones
Arlington, WA
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2011 11:17:55 -0500
From: Lee Hiers
Ever operate an Elecraft K3? You might be surprised how easy it listens
yet can be very discerning.
Just a thought.
Stan
C-line, TR4, TR7's, 2B, 2C, 2NT
On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 9:54 AM, J. Steven Cochrane w7...@msn.com wrote:
If you LOVE the mellow sound you probably won't like
Do the R-4 receivers share the same run of serial numbers, the R-4's the lowest
and the R-4C's the highest?
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basically, yes. Take a look at
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeSNDatabase-P2.htm I'm not sure if
the plain r-4's are included in the series below the R-4A no.s.
Donnie Garrett had a good listing of the s/n's for the R-4A's, but I
don't know where it might be available now, he dropped out of
Yes, the R-4 series all are the same serial number string.
The R-4 started at 100 (I believe, I've never seen one below that).
The first schematic is labeled '0001'.
The R-4A started at 2000 with the 13 tube version.
The R-4A continued at 4054 with the 11 tube version.
The R-4B started at
As someone downthread suggested The David Clark Aero are real good. I have a
pair from my flying days, and they saved my hearing there as well...
73, Bud W0 HG.
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Anything with brushes, a corless drill, heat gun, etc. Also a solder station
with adjustable heat works great.
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu/
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Hi agn,
I found it -- Donnie's list. It's just for the R-4A's, but he points
out the differences between the 2 versions. I seem to remember, and
Garey can probably comment better, that there were some more small
changes made toward the end of the late version, such that the very
late ones
So, based on Garey's serial number figures there were the following
approximate number of each model built:
R-4: 1,900 (or fewer)
R-4A (13-tube): 2,053
R-4A (11-tube): 2,946 (or fewer)
TOTAL R-4A: ~4,999
R-4B: 9,151
R-4C: ~13,849 (possibly a few more)
T-4X: 3,749
T-4XB:
I'm still looking for and ORIGINAL one. I can DIY one using the circuit board
picture in the manual, but would rather not. Any help appreciated.
Bob AG5X
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OK, It seems like Garey's suggestion is the easiest and it
workstake a jumper lead, hook it to the antenna jack. drag it
across a large file slowly...it generates nice ignition like noise.
The NB does reduce it quite a bit.
73,
Lee
-Original Message-
From: Richard Knoppow
Speaking of Donnie, does ANYONE know what happened to him in relation to
Drakes and Drake parts?? I really miss his participation in the reflector,
and he was just starting to build a nice group of accessories that are
needed. I do see him posting occasionally on QTH.com and other places, but
My Drake R4 is serial number 861. John, K5PGW
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