My search goes on for a simple field antenna system for which the KX1
can get a match on 40, 30 and 20 meters *and* with a good long
feedline so that the antenna can be placed in an exposed location
while the op takes shelter from the sun and wind some distance away.
I'm planning for the ARS Fligh
John - KI6WX said:
(fyi - the
reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).
==
No wonder I havn't got the house painted!
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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You m
I know this message is a bit old, but I've been too tied up with other
projects to read the reflector mail for the last two months (fyi - the
reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).
The increased gain mod I did for the KSB2 was originally designed to
increase the transmit g
Bill, AA4LR, wrote:
The basic issue is that the DB-9 connector on the K2 does
double-duty.
True enough. Then Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
RS232 is a signaling protocol, not a cable pinout scheme.
Correct. Then the principle designer, N6KR, wrote:
We didn't have room for two connect
Rick K7MW wrote:
And a relativly large voltage drop. This would show up as a low voltage at
the rig. This is why it is important to monitor the voltage at the rig. If
there is an unexpected low voltage at the K2, the cause needs to be
determined.
--
Very true, and notic
Ron and Tom are totally correct. On inspection of the connectors they were not
seated forward enough because I tried to do something fancy...like putting two
wires coming out of the 20 amp APP to run the KAT100. I did not get the spade
pushed far enough into the plastic shell. I will be chang
So if you melted your Anderson connector, it had unusually high resistance
for some reason.
Ron AC7AC
-
And a relativly large voltage drop. This would show up as a low voltage at
the rig. This is why it is important to monitor the voltage at the rig.
Lee, KOWA wrote:
Well, I was giving the K2/100 heck (100 watts) on 40 meters tonight into a
nice load (1.2) and things start stinking a little when I turn it back over
to the other station. I had been sending code at around 18 wpm for about 10
minutes. I am running a Astron switching power supp
Well, I was giving the K2/100 heck (100 watts) on 40 meters tonight into a nice
load (1.2) and things start stinking a little when I turn it back over to the
other station. I had been sending code at around 18 wpm for about 10 minutes.
I am running a Astron switching power supply. Then the ri
Bill, AA4LR, wrote:
The basic issue is that the DB-9 connector on the K2 does double-
duty. It serves both as a serial connection and as an AUXBUS
extension for external devices, such as the KAT100 or the KRC2.
-
I have run into this situation in many other places
What time is the sprint?
Bill
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Makoski W2LJ
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:58 PM
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorr
Way OT! I was hoping that some of you computer types could reply to me "Off
List" with some possible fixes.
I have a 4 year old Dell Flat Panel Display that seemed to die during what
may have been a power surge. My Satellite System died as well, but worked again
when I re-booted it. Both
What time is the sprint?
Bill
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Makoski W2LJ
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:58 PM
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorr
Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote:
So dust off your Rockmite, HiMite, Pixie, Tiny Tornado, Tuna Tin 2 or
whatever; and join us tomorrow night!
73 de Larry W2LJ
Of course, it's also quite easy to crank back the power of your K1, K2
or KX1. That's what I plan to do!
73 de Larry W2LJ
--
Larry W2LJ
Q
Folks,
Please remember tomorrow night (Tuesday night) is a special one hour,
milliwatt Sprint sponsored by the North American QRP CW Club.
The Sprint will take place on 40 Meters only and will be from 7:00 to
8:00PM your LOCAL time.
Please check out the details at:
http://www.arm-tek.net/~
Julius -
In order to support both global voltages 100/120/220/240 - an appliance's
transformer requires multiple primaries or voltage specific taps.
For the Hakko soldering station you can start with the Hakko USA web site,
found here:
http://www.hakkousa.com/2006/default_1.asp?Assistant=Din
On Jun 19, 2006, at 12:55 AM, Paul wrote:
It seems to me the glaring error with Elecraft's serial port
implementation is the ability to blow the I/O card out of the water
if you use anything but the "special" K2 serial cable. They should
have designed it so you could use an "off the shelf"
Its a dual purpose port. I run two cables out of the port, one is
short pig tail that is strictly RS-232 and terminates in a female
connector that can plug into a standard serial cable. The other is
the control cable that I use to feed the transverters.
Keeps the two uses separate and avoids con
Hello everybody,
My KX1 construction is going well. The basic 20/40 rig is all done and I have
even had a couple of QSO’s on those bands. I am now working on the KXB30 option
and I am having a small problem with installing it on top of the main board.
I have flush-trimmed everything as close to
http://www.mouser.com/?handler=data.listcategory&Ne=200&terms=binding+posts&;
Ntt=*binding*%2b*posts*&crc=false&Ns=SField&N=1620
Glad I could help.
73 Jim, W4ATK
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Keith:
Unfortunately, you really can't tell much about one keyer vs.
another with just a short trial. The best thing to do is simply pick
one and use it. As you get used to it, you'll get better and better,
regardless of which you pick. The nice element of the K2's internal
keyer is t
Julius,
Find a 5-way binding post with a 6-32 threaded stud and screw it into the
hole where the grounding screw normally mounts. Take a 6-32 nut along to
the local hamfest - caution, some of the threads on the new binding posts
are metric sizes.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
>
>
What I did was to put a couple small drops "Liquid Electrical Tape" on the
paddles around the screw on the side that goes against the KX1 case and
after it dried well there was no more slipping when attached.
73 - Mike WA8BXN
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NOTE: Removing K1 is made more difficult because I was talked into using
63/37 solder ("it is the industry standard" HUMBUG!)and not my old
favorate
(and hard to find) 60/40 which stays plyable and workable longer. (this
reworkability is a big advantage, I have now discovered, to using 60/45)
This may be silly, but one of the things that I don't
like about my K2 and KAT-100 is the grounding screw.
What I would really like to see is a standard screw
type Banana Jack. It is more of an issue for me as I
move the rig back and forth between two QTH's and that
is the most difficult part of th
Lately I've used my straight key for CW most of the time. In prep for
field day I've been hitting the paddles a bit to try to get my fist
back. I was also trying to decide whether or not to use my external
Idiom CMOS-4 keyer or the internal K2 keyer. So, true to form, I did
some testing with bot
I am happy to announce that K-2, serial number 04242 is ALIVE and
working.
It went together without a hitch and works as expected.
Great radio!!!
Mac
k4CHS
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Project 465-L used an 8-bit code but only 7 bits were
significant. It was called Field Data code. IBM's code,
EBCDIC, we just called it "ib see dick."
I was the programmer who wrote and debugged those
routines that handled input/output terminal messages
of Project 465-L I also designed message
My take on this is that they wanted to have serial data AND the
Elecraft control bus in one cable. As long as you know not to use a standard
cable, you are good to go. Just read and follow the directions.
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL P
I would not use a lock washer, I would use a flat washer...A lock washer is
intended to permanently anchor a nut or screw..(bolt ?)The sharp edges on it
bite into the metal...In the case of the KXPD1 paddle, the body of the paddle
is aluminum, a relatively soft metal...Since the paddle will most
Phil,
You didn't say what you real problem may be. If the mic works fine when you
activate PTT with the key, then the mic itself is working properly and
whatever problem must be in the adapter. The adapter is nothing but wires
going from the jacks to the 8 pin mic plug.
It sounds like the AD-1k
Vicd Rosenthal wrote:
I'm thinking about duplicating the KPA100 LP filter section so I can use
this amp as an output stage for another rig. This sounds like a
no-brainer, but I wonder if there's any reason not to do this?
Also, does anyone know the manufacturer and model number of the relays
Hi;
I have a Heil Proset that I got from Elecraft. I hooked up according to spec
sheet, jumpers on all pins on the header and 5.6k res pins 1 to6 on mic
socket. This works fine if I key the K-2 with my straight key. I have a Heil
foot switch I use with my IC-746 and Heil ICM. I ordered a new
In a message dated 6/18/06 11:55:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> IBM's EBDBIC (?) code.
>
I think you meant EBCDIC (Extended Binary Coded Decimal Interchange Code).
--
On the subject of USB vs. RS-232, IMHO it's a design philosophy issue.
The design philosophy of th
Another source might be
http://www.communication-concepts.com/
Look for Products-Products-Filters
Benny OH9NB
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When I was in Dayton for FDIM, I posed this very question and the
official response was:
"It would be too expensive and time-consuming to go back and
re-design the K2 to have a USB port. It also requires changing code,
and there is not a whole lot of space left to add it. Most of the
computer
- Original Message -
From: "Francis Belliveau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
So until there is a better generic communications standard, I say that the
serial port is still the best choice for a small non-computer company like
Elecraft. Users only need to know which port they have attached their
Thanks to all that helped me with this 20m loss of T/R issue...
My final solution (after this groups' help and much schematic study and
rumination) was to remove K1 relay and replace it. THIS IS NOT EASY amd I
almost sent it to Elecraft Tech support
First You need to remove the capacitor s
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