Here's one I bet you guys haven't run into yet. I was tuned to a local AM
station on 710 kHz which was showing up as a -75 dBm carrier on the P3.
Every 8 seconds a relay would quickly cycle off and on (or on and off, I don't
know which) inside the P3 which would reduce the displayed amplitude
Hi Simon
Just to confirm: you'll pay a Parcel Force handling charge and then VAT on
the total value. There should be no import taxes.
If you have a dispute, it's easier to pay and argue afterwards, otherwise
you won't get you nice new rig until it's all settled.
Your letter from Parcel Force
Simon, it's worth checking to see if it's less expensive to buy from
QRPproject in Germany (Elecraft's European distributor).
http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/indexuk.html Because it's in the Eu, the VAT is
included in the price and you don't have to pay the incoming carrier VAT or
a (large!!)
Hello
A good friend of mine, F6CVM, has a K3 as well as an Icom transceiver. He
uses an old Heath SB 230 as an amplifier.
When he connects Icom/SB 230, no problem.
But if he connects K3/SB 230, as soon as he plugs the cinch into the K3 key
out output , (with no drive), the amplifier sets on the
is that site supposed to have prices and an ordering form? I looked here before
and you can see various Electraft products, but not a price list as far as I
know.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
No sensible decision can be made any longer without taking into account not
only the world as it
The SB230, like the SB200 and a few other amplifiers, has negative high
voltage keying line voltage. The voltage is well over 100 volts negative. It
is not compatible with the K3 and many other radios that are designed for
the standard positive voltage lines.
It can actually damage many
On 8/18/2010 5:20 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
is that site supposed to have prices and an ordering form? I looked here
before and you can see various Electraft products, but not a price list as
far as I know.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
I finally found this. Can't tell you how I
Yes, I found that too, thanks. But looking through a list for various items is
not easy, there isn't a simple list of products and prices - mind you, the W2
as a kit is €10 cheaper from them before you even take into account the cost of
shipping and the additional VAT, so certainly worth
Thanks all for the suggestions!
73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W
-Mensaje original-
De: Bud Semon N7CW [mailto:n...@cableone.net]
Enviado el: Martes, 17 de Agosto de 2010 05:11 p.m.
Para: 'Jorge Diez - CX6VM'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: RE: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC
Hello,
does KPA500 provide some (small) internal tuning capability,
not for tuning random wires etc., but for minor matching like
SWR variation of small Yagis etc. ??
Or is it absolut obligatory to have an external tuner (KAT.. or whatever) ?
Sorry I've no experiences with PA's so far (but
The K3's KEY OUT jack is rated at +200V @ 5A. I owned an SB-230 back in the
mid '70s and I believe it uses a relatively HV negative key line. So, while
the K3's keying circuit is very robust for positive key lines, it acts as a
short on negative key lines. I doubt any damage has been done to
I inspected all of my solder joints and found a few pins that did not have
proper wetting. The solder was not touching the pin. I was using a different
type of solder and wanted to try it on the K2. I ended up removing all of
the solder from the pins without proper wetting and used no-clean
If you were using a lead-free solder, all those I am familiar with
require a higher temperature, and are more difficult to work with.
650 degrees F is too low for most thru-hole soldering. Try at least 700
deg F, I prefer 750 deg/F.
An info 80 message indicates that there is a problem with the
We are all K3 at Multi/Multi NY4A and do not have this problem.
First, your description of loosing the first *character* while waiting
for *fast* AGC to recover is certainly not normal, regardless of the
input level. The K3's serial number, firmware version and AGC
constants would be useful
Have seen a K3 with toasted circuitry due to trying to key -150 volts.
Don't do it. Damage requiring component replacement is definitely
possible.
73, Guy.
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:59 AM, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote:
The K3's KEY OUT jack is rated at +200V @ 5A. I owned an SB-230
True, Guy. Looking at the internal structure of the switching HEXFET used
in the K3, a protecting Zener diode appears between the source and drain
leads. With a negative keying voltage, the Zener is actually forward biased
like a typical silicon switching diode. So, the negative switching
Juha, OH6OS
Did you get solution already?
If not please refer following advice that I had given from tech support of
Elecraft
egarding same problem.
===Q't===
You need to always be careful to remove *all* cables from the K3 is
there is a bad lightning storm. We see lots of damage to customer's
Quite true Joe, and that's why it's important to note how the supply is
rated.
If you're talking about the Gamma HPS1a, it's rated at only 5 amps
continuous* and they do not offer an ICAS rating. Instead they say it will
handle 22 amps peak at 25% duty/sec., which I interpret to mean no more
I'm seriously considering selling my 2 year old, unbuilt XV144 (with oven and
still in packaging) and buying a K144XV instead, having read the article on the
K144XV in August QST.
I originally thought the XV144 would be far superior to the K144XV, but now
think the difference would probably
*Gamma Research further hedges their rating by adding a footnote
to their spex that Output power should be limited to 25 or 300
watts during tune-up or other prolonged key-down operation. At
13.8 VDC that means the supply should not be expected to provide
more than 2A continuous!
With
I have had a lot of responses on the contents of this estate. So I have
figured out how things will have to be handled.
First, I will not have these items in my possession for about 2 weeks.
Once that happens, I will evaluate everything and set a price. In
general, that price will be 70% of the
I'm going through the process of rebuilding a Heathkit SB-200.
One of the additions is a Softkey CCT from Harbach which will
reduce the -120Volt + to a value suitable for nearly all modern
tranceivers' PTT out line. The cost of the CCT is about $27 and
easy to construct and install.
Regards
I've used the Gamma on PSK at 30 watts and CW at 100w and no one
complained (I realize that only means no one complained). I may have been
pushing
the envelope but the Gamma met my needs for a small lightweight portable
supply. I wouldn't use it full time in the shack when there are
Seems like I saw a post some time ago that someone had figured out how
to get at the K3's IF Output without installing the KXV3. Can't find it
now. Anyone?
73,
Randy, KS4L
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I have several of the MFJ-4125 supplies and several of the ASTRON 20 and 35
amp models. The only ones I have trouble with have been the ASTRONs. Random
failures even when not under load. Go figure. MFJsrock solid.
George, W6GF
--- On Wed, 8/18/10, k...@aol.com k...@aol.com wrote:
That's interesting. I have a RM 70 that has been turned on for over 15
years with no problems and a RS-35 for 10 years w/o a problem. Rock Solid.
Phil
Philip LaMarche
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
Same here, Phil. RS and RM50's, but same results. Only lightning has
gotten one in a LOT of years, hi. My fault then, as I was powering some of
my wireless internet setup with it, hi. I wonder if the Astrons referenced
might have been switchers??
73,
Don, WB5HAK
Yes...a very L O N G time ago. :-)
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-August/094777.html
I also some other input that you may be interested in, but it is an
attachment, so I'll send it to you directly.
de Doug KR2Q
__
Also see
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-August/094789.html
I'm sure the price has changed. :-)
de Doug KR2Q
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Or, going even further back in time...
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-cheapo-substitute-for-KXV3-td679318.html#a679781
~Iain / N6ML
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 5:21 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL doug...@gmail.com wrote:
Yes...a very L O N G time ago. :-)
Thank you,
I have got just these instructions. I have to check these voltages and parts
on KIO3 board.
juha
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/k3-rs232-problem-tp5429452p5437322.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Is the k2 easy to enterface to a external digital amp. I do not have one yet.
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I am solidly in the A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing area here!
I hooked up my XG2 and set up my K3 as called for in the S Meter calibration
section. K3 has been calibrated with the XG2 to read S9.
With the P3 connected I expected to see something in the range of -72 dbm.
Rick,
Did you set the K3 S-meter (as instructed) with the preamp on, and then
turn it off? Or did you turn on S-MTR ABS after calibrating it?
Either situation will produce exactly what you describe.
You CAN calibrate the S-meter with the Preamp off even if the manual
says to turn the preamp
I don't feel that you are being quite fair (or accurate) in regard to the
Gamma power supply. It is indeed a unique design that trades off continuous
power rating vs. size and weight. I have one, and think it is an excellent
tradeoff for its intended applications.
You definitely cannot run a
No ALC connection is required between the K3 and the FL-2100B. The power
output on the K3 is more than stable enough for the 2100B. And Elecraft
discourages the use of ALC. I ran this setup for over a year with no ALC
related problems.
However, you will need an interface to key the amp from
P3 amplitude calibration is not yet implemented.
73,
Lyle KK7P
Am I expecting too much from the P3 calibration or am I missing something
else?
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Hello
Many thanks to Charles, John, Paul, Guy and Nigel for their replies.
I have used a SB 220 for about10 years, with an Icom 751 first, then with a
K3. I got a Slow Key from Harbach, all worked normally, but I didn't notice
the key line was negative !
Otherwise I would have told my friend (
That's interesting. I have a RM 70 that has been turned on for
over 15 years with no problems and a RS-35 for 10 years w/o a
problem. Rock Solid.
The RM-35 (linear) supply is my absolute favorite for powering
a 100 W 13.8V transceiver. If it is an older unit with the captive
cord, I
Has anyone had any luck trying to get a XG1 or XG2 to work on 10M? If so,
please pass along how you did it. I would like to have it to check out coax
loss by hanging the XG on the end of the coax and measuring the loss in the
shack. This would take into account anything inserted in the line such
Guys,
I run a number of accessories from the switched power on the back of the K3.
I run it to a powerpole strip and then just plug in all the items that I
want to power up with the rig. So far I run a W2, an LP-PAN and a 6m
pre-amp. I'd like at add the P3. The K3 plug says 0.5A max, which is
The short answer is no.
73,
Lyle KK7P
...The K3 plug says 0.5A max, which is what
the P3 draws. So it looks like its either/or. Is there
enough conservatism in the rating of that power socket to add the P3?
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On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 9:01 PM, GLEN BROWN 210g...@gmail.com wrote:
Guys,
I run a number of accessories from the switched power on the back of the K3.
I run it to a powerpole strip and then just plug in all the items that I
want to power up with the rig. So far I run a W2, an LP-PAN and a
Glenn,
That output is fused internally at 600 mA, and is supplied via a 1n4007
diode (1 amp max). Best not to exceed the 500 mA recommended max load. An
option would be to supply power to your powerpole strip from the same supply
that feeds the K3, but have it switched by a small relay controlled
I have never used a waterfall display before getting my P3 (sn 155). I used
spectrum analyzers before.
Does anyone have a recommendation on an article or some info on
using/interpreting the waterfall display?
In the commercial world, never used them just spectrum analyzers.
Oh the P3 works
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the manual feedback. I add new index entries when I find
them lacking, and I'll add one or more to take care of the missing
info you noted.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Aug 10, 2010, at 4:06 AM, Pete Smith wrote:
I adore my K3, but the Owner's Manual index, not so much. I just
Anyone have a kx1 they would like to sell ?
Ken K1DWZ
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Tony,
The XG1 and XG2 require a fundamental mode crystal. Reliable
fundamental mode crystals for 10 meters are difficult to find.
For what you want to accomplish, I would suggest an alternative. Put a
dummy load at the antenna end of the coax. Use a wattmeter at the shack
end, and transmit
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 14:16 -0700, Lyle Johnson wrote:
The short answer is no.
The long answer :=) is that the P3 uses a pair of DC-DC converters to
convert +12V down to the +3.3V and +5V needed by its circuitry. This
tends to make the input constant power meaning that current times
volts is
Hi Guys,
For RTTY Contesting, please advise what you have found the optimum filter
settings to be when you have both the 250hz and 400hz roofing filters.
Such as,
would one of the two following settings usually be ideal for contesting:
1) 400hz Roofing Filter with 400hz or 500hz DSP
250 Hz filter, switched in at DSP=400. Then use DSP 400 or 350.
Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA
--
From: r...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 6:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K-3: RTTY Filter Settings
The K2 manual and the SSB option manual urge builders to save the xtal
calibration numbers written on the envelops they came in with the statement
that those numbers will be useful later for filter calibration. But I don't
see where these numbers ever get used. Has anyone else actually used
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