Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it this way. I would
tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then solder through the holes like K0PP
suggested. I have never had a problem with one done like this.
On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote:
Glad t
This is along the same lines of the PL-259 connector soldering. Although
off topic for this group some collective wisdom might help someone other
than myself in the future.
How can you check to see if coax is still "good"? Sure we can test for
shorts with a multimeter, but if the coax has been c
Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because
they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you
got your ticket" grumps).
What is your opinion of this method:
http://www.
I do hope that the factory installed a second serial port on this
unit. The existing high speed port for comms between the K3/Mini
and the K3/100 and another for CAT control and access to the K3_Utility
software. Right now you cannot access any of the really useful features
of the K3_Utility like M
I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is more important
than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job.
On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys using
200-300W irons!
Not see
Tom,
Are the BFO "jumps" more than 20 Hz per 'jump'? The DAC value limit for
the BFO is approximately 20 Hz, so that level of granularity is to be
expected. If you are experiencing jumps greater than 20 Hz, you have a
problem somewhere. Perhaps I can help you localize it off-reflector,
but
I guess I'm contrary, but I find that a 40 watt Weller iron with a 1/4 inch
tip does just fine. If your tip is too big you just make a mess trying to
get it down into the holes. I filed down the tip on a 100 watt iron so that
it fits, but it doesn't work any better than the 40 watt iron and it's
ha
What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys using
200-300W irons!
Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of body
with holes in it?
My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We had a
demo at ham club meeting a
I have been re-aligning my K2 after finishing the K2 100 options. Dial
calibration and PLL have gone without problem. I'm able to set the LSB/USB
filters using Cal FIL. When I'm trying to use CAL fil to set the CW
filters acct N0SS's notes, I can't move the pass band down so the filter is
set ove
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With all the recent talk of cable building and the other such projects it
occurred to me that I should offer up some of my related surplus wares here
instead of taking them to a hamfest or swap meet.
I have two (2) brand new (in the box) Panavise model #301 vises for sale-
http://tinyurl.com/yjemp
We had a smallish net yesterday with 23 participants.
Participants from the 11/10/13 net follow:
Station NameQTH Rig S/N
KA3ZHX George CO K3 7729
W7NMD Palmer AR K3
Nick,
The "trick" is to use a soldering iron with a sufficiently large tip
that will transfer sufficient heat. A typical solder tip for working
with boards will not 'hack' it. Use a 3/16 inch or 1/4 inch tip - the
more mass the better.
I find the silver plated PL-259s are much better than th
That's the secret. It allows you to quickly heat the connector, melt the
solder and get out, instead of slow cooking everything. My B-A iron is
also 200 watts. It's so old it still has a woven cloth cover on the AC
cord. I also have a cordless soldering iron I got from my dad who used
to be a m
Ken G Kopp wrote:
Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body
of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be
the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making
soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier.
This is an _excell
I've used a 280 watt Weller gun since the 50's.
A little flux helps a lot too.
Use good quality coax with at least 98% shielding (you can find coax with as
little as 50% shielding). Be sure you can see braid inside each hole.
The result is a good flow of solder in each hole on a PL-259.
73 Ro
A small jar with a top large enough to accept the end
of the coax with the connector attached ... or spray
bottle of alcohol ... to quench the hot connector is helpful.
73!
Ken - K0PP
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On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 17:31:29 -0800, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> any tips for getting a nice, solid solder
> connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time?
Plenty of mass in your heat source. One person already suggested a large iron.
I use a 300+ watt gun. I also make sure that the coax
I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as
part of an over-all talk on wire antennas
Here's suggestions ...
Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells.
Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and
cut it to length with a small tu
I have had good success tinning the braid before I insert it into the PL259 body.
Then it is easy to make sure that the solder though the holes in the connector bond
to the coax shield. GL and VY 73, Lance
On 11/12/2013 2:46 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
The only way to do UHF connectors right is
I solder one hole and go do something else.
Another hole when everything has cooled off. Until all holes are soldered.
Pros can't do this, but Amateurs can.
I don't want to melt the dielectric and cause a short.
The solder surfaces need to be real clean.
I use a 250 W gun. Plenty of heat. Bought
The only way to do UHF connectors right is with a big-a** soldering
iron. I mean a 200W IRON, not a gun. You need something with enough heat
capacity to heat up the entire connector body. Once you get it hot
enough, the solder will magically wick down into the shield with no
problem at all. If
Only one CW normal/reverse indication is saved for both main and sub, on the
theory that for a given band, the operator is probably going to want one or the
other but not both. Still, if this particular part of the Twilight Zone is of
further interest, I'll put it on the wish-list. But it's a co
At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid solder
connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? I have
historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm really
satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something
wrong, or if t
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 10:32:27 -0800, Jim Brown wrote:
> Real hams don't buy pre-made coax cables, they make their own. Pre-made
> cables are often made with cheap coax with junk connectors. And that
> includes "big name" vendors who have big ads in QST and CQ.
I'm sure you'll get some flak for
For Sale - Elecraft KAF2 Audio Filter
Completely assembled and operational. This unit is in excess to my needs.
Less than six months on the battery. The male-female standoff is included, but
J1 and J2, the 3 and 5 pin
female connectors for the K2 Control Board are not. These are available fr
That's great Tim, glad you got it working. This is one of the reasons
Elecraft uses FTDI chip sets in the KXUSB and KUSB cables.
-Paul
Paul Saffren - N6HZ
Project Manager
Elecraft Inc.
831-763-4211 x122
www.elecraft.com
On 11/11/2013 8:28 AM, Tim Cook wrote:
Paul,
I was using the fixed mode
If you have one for sale please send details to include price with
shipping to zip 45324
Thanks
Tim
Nz8J
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Following the recent discissions of optimum CW pitch, I wondered if the brain
might be better able to discriminate the wanted signal from close-in QRM by
inverting the sideband to one ear. Only the wanted signal would have the same
pitch in both ears.
I set-up the main and sub receivers to a sep
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW-1HwpgC8w
as sherwood told in his presentation qsk ist no so good as expected
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Post: m
Hi all, yes D28 was in short circuit... i leave it and now the radio it's
working.. but without the Kpa100.. the same diode/zener on the Kpa100
module it's in short circuit also.
Now i have to find where to but 2 of the D28 diode...
thanks to all !!!
73 de IW0HK Andrea
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at
I had a very similar thing happen during a RTTY transmission on 20 M. - but
I was using an ASTRON 35 which has foldback current limiting so no other
damage took place. With no current limiting other things could fail.
What had happened in my case was a failure of the reverse polarity diode
con
Yes I figured thats what was going on.. its a bit of an annoyance and would be
great to get a clear solution on it, but performance is ok despite the
incorrect display switch on the K3/0. If anyone resolves this please send a
shout out to the reflector with the correction steps.
glad to hear y
On 11/11/2013 8:01 AM, Joe W2KJ wrote:
I replaced the coax jumper cable (RG58) from my KX3 to my coax antenna switch
with a new one and the birdies disappeared!!
A high quality shield, well soldered to a high quality connector, is
critical to good performance. A high quality shield requires
Hi all
Recently I updated my P3 f/w from beta 1.08 to 1.26. Just noticed that
changing the span has now become rather clunky - it only changes about
twice a second, whereas before it changed immediately. I've reloaded
1.08 to check and this seems to be a feature of v1.26.
Any chance of gett
On 11/11/2013 9:59 AM, P.J.Hicks wrote:
> I do not often have problems with jumpers or long runs as I use a
> 'proper' crimper to make BNC connectors/jumpers. I have often
> wondered what the "proper" procedure is to makeup UHF connectors
> (often one of each on the jumper). Perhaps you or someone
I use the old wire-wrap wire for track repair on PC boards. It's perfect
and strips easily. Not sure if it's still available though. I can send a
hank if anybody needs some.
73, Charlie k3ICH
- Original Message -
From: "Dale Putnam"
To: "Art Bross" ;
Sent: Monday, November 11,
I do not often have problems with jumpers or long runs as I use a 'proper'
crimper to make BNC connectors/jumpers. I have often wondered what the "proper"
procedure is to makeup UHF connectors (often one of each on the jumper).
Perhaps you or someone might detail the procedure for us. I'm sure
Check out any local beading store. They have multi colored enamel wire in
standard gauges on very small reels. My wife does beading so I have an
unlimited supply.
Art
KC7GF
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The beading wire is a great source.. however.. it is insulted or coated with a
not so easy to remove enamel... so care must be taken to remove that BEFORE
trying to tin it. It has a bit more tinsel strength that soft copper, and works
rather nice, once you get the tinning correct.
Have a great
Hmm... I too am using fixed tune mode, and the DXlab Commander and have never noticed this
problem. My poll rate in Commander is set slow, 300 ms.
On 11/11/2013 7:37 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
Paul,
I have been using Fixed Tune mode with the P3 and Commander as
long as it has been available
Paul,
I was using the fixed mode, but have since changed the USB adapter to a FTDI
adapter and so far have not had any hang ups, if I do, I'll try changed the
mode to see if that helps.
Thanks for the response.
Tim
NZ8J
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Joe -
Many thanks for sharing your experience. That is the kind of information
we all either did, do or will need at some point in this great hobby.
A few years ago I started going through all the cables in my shack, and
ended up replacing a number of them that I thought might have been good
eno
Hi Fred,
Loss is generally not a problem for RX antennas on the low bands because
it's low (even for RG6) and ambient atmospheric noise is high. The RX4SQ
uses a run of 800' and the Beverages use from 200-500', all RG6. The TX
antenna uses about 350' of surplus 7/8" Heliax which replaced RG8 sev
Howdy Gang:
I find my KX3 to be my "go to" QRP rig these daysmy K3 is getting dusty
(grin).
I was on 15M CW the other day and noticed birdies every 1Khz across the band.
I didn't think this was right so I dug deeper.
After eliminating the antenna coax switch and connecting the antenna dire
Paul,
I have been using Fixed Tune mode with the P3 and Commander as
long as it has been available in the P3 without any "hang". I
do keep Commander's Command Interval (polling rate) at 200 ms
or higher (slower) but that is primarily to handle the worst
case "dead time" in the K3 when changing
Hi Tim,
Are you using Fixed Tune mode on the P3/SVGA? In Fixed Tune mode, there is
quite a bit if information passing between the K3 and P3/SVGA and it sounds
like the Commander polling is affecting this communication. Try using
Tracking Mode on the P3/SVGA and see if that solves the hanging p
Bill
A very nice antenna farm you have for sure! If I might ask how long is your
feed line from the beverage and the 4sq's to your shack? And the TX 160m
distance and feed line used helix I'm guessing?
73,
Fred/N0AZZ
Monett, MO.
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.n
Although I have also used Eltima's products in the past, they require a
PC to be running at the remote location.
Therefore I highly recommend another method for remote stations: serial
device servers. These small devices plug into the network and carry the
serial ports over the internet with n
Prior to purchasing a K3/0 with the remote rig boxes, I had been using HRD.
My accessory equipment (Alpha 87A, 2 rotor controllers, power meter, etc.)
were handled by using the HRD Serial Port Client in conjunction with the 3rd
party N8VB vCOM Virtual Serial Port Driver software. Unfortunately, the
Jim Brown-10 wrote
> Beverages tend to favor higher wave angles, while verticals favor low
> angles. Those who have lots of land like to install both Beverages and
> vertical RX arrays (Hi-Z Antennas, DX Engineering are US companies that
> sell them). I've seen reports of signals appearing an h
Used also on 6m -
http://www.g3tct.co.uk/diversity.html
Graham
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