On 5/8/2014 8:34 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Check with the the voltmeter at the K3 end rather than the power
supply. The K3 will display the voltage in the VFO B area.
Yes. Solid state power amps work better with higher supply voltage. If
you have not already don so, try to find a PSU that can
For those who might be interested, I do have a ICOM PW-1, a SS 160-
6m, 1KW+ output PA, for sale. It will operate similarly to the
KPA500 and KAT500 combo, with automatic band changing and auto
antenna tuning, with its own built in ATU. The unit can be located
remotely and controlled by
If I wanted both 2m 4m modules - how easy to swap out to change bands ?
I know you will be using the SMA socket - so will there be a connection on the
board or will the antenna cable be hard wired on ?
I don’t think the change would be needed on a regular basis - but it would be
good to have
Hello Wayne,
Thank you for the information on the 2 metre
module for the KX3, I will be ordering one on Friday 16th. I would also
be interested in a 4 Metre module as that band is getting very popular
in region1. Just an idea Wayne, would it be possible to have it
I had a problem that I remembered reading about on the reflector when I
hooked up my new KPA500 to my K3 with PR6/10 preamp using the Elecraft Aux
cable and the companion Y cable. I searched the archive and discovered that
users found it necessary to remove pin 11 from the cable to the KPA500. The
Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink
USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also
try it with the K3.
The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by
Slava,
Certainly that would be possible, but the output of the Signalink would
have to be set at mic level rather than line level.
I would think it should be easier to simply use a Y adapter on the
Line In of the K3.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/9/2014 8:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
Hi Don,
On 5/9/2014 7:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink
USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also
try it with the
Anyone know who makes the probe tips used in the k2? I need some but not sure
what kind they are or if there something else and just used as probe tips. Or
if there a elecraft specialty item. I need bout 3-4 or so, so I tried
searching ebay to no avail.
WT5Y
Sent from my Cricket
I also had a problem with an external preamp for 6 meters. This one I
powered from the station 13.8V power supply so it was always on. The
problem came about when I changed bands to the internal 2M transverter
and inadvertently activated the RX ANT. Instant relay buzz from inside
the K3, I
John,
I really don't know, but I can give you an alternative.
I use #14 bare copper wire to build a number of the K2 counter probes.
A bit of filing to round off the end of the wire and it fits the test
points quite nicely.
I seem to lose or misplace those probes frequently.
73,
Don W3FPR
On May 9, 2014, at 1:19 AM, Philip Godbold g4ud...@psmb.co.uk wrote:
If I wanted both 2m 4m modules - how easy to swap out to change bands ?
This would not be a good idea. We use very small internal coax connectors for
this option, and they're rated for a small number of mating/unmating
On May 9, 2014, at 1:24 AM, Barry Middleton bajubrans...@ntlworld.com wrote:
I would also be interested in a 4 Metre module as that band is getting very
popular in region 1. Just an idea Wayne, would it be possible to have it
mounted in a seperate enclosure, so as to avoid opening up the
On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also
try it with the K3.
What is my audio stuff that you are currently using? If it's to/from
an internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB
audio
I have the SL-USB and the Tigertronics cable set
and jumper block for the K2. When I acquired the
K3 I considered using the front mic connection
with the K3. I concluded the K2 cable and block
would work with the K3. Never tested it because I
ended up using the rear connections for the
Slava,
If you are using a microphone input for data modes, adjusting the mic
gain input for the data mode interface will affect the mic gain with
your microphone. You will probably find this annoying.
The usual arrangement is to configure voice modes to use the front- or
rear-panel
My teams and I have developed automotive radar for adaptive cruise control and
collision avoidance for several decades. They generally operate at 76-77 GHz
with only milliWatts of power and significant frequency modulation. The range
is typically up to 150 M. Furthermore, with high gain
I have 2 K3's and I'd like to sell one
K3-100 I assembled 07/12 serial # 6644
*KXV3ARX Ant., IF Out and Xverter Interface*
*KFL3A-6K6 kHz AM / ESSB, 8-pole
**KFL3A-400 400 Hz, 8-pole
*standard 2.7 kHz 5 -pole filter**
FW Rev 04.51
This K3 has performed equally as well as my factory
Doing something I should have not done , I managed to blow up Q11on the
control board. I fixed that with a replacement from my junkbox. All
voltages are correct on control board U3. When tapping display I get a
voltage of 23.3 volts indicated from a 12 volt supply and zero current.
Further
Resistors almost never fail shorted, I've never seen it happen. Check
for solder bridges, and look at the schematic and see what else could be
causing a 0ohm reading.
73, Ross N4RP
On 5/9/2014 1:14 PM, Glenn Haffly wrote:
Doing something I should have not done , I managed to blow up Q11on
In many photos of this amp it looks like the LEDs are not lined up (some
higher others lower)
I realize this is cosmetic, but it's a distraction from it's otherwise nice
appearance.
Is there a way to bet them to perfectly line up and stay that way?
Thank you.
--
View this message in
Glenn,
R7 has no association with the voltage display - it does however have a
lot to do with the current display.
The voltage detection is done by the voltage divider consisting of R9
and R10 on the control board. The voltage measured at the junction of
R9 and R10 (or U3 pin 5) should be
Hi all,
I wanted to let you know that in digging through my stuff, I found
*another* EC2 project enclosure.
The first one has sold, in case you were wondering.
Asking $68 + shipping (probably ~$7 or so for First Class postage).
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
Harry,
Remove the front panel enclosure and tilt the LEDs until they are
aligned to your satisfaction, then put the front panel metalwork back
on. They will stay aligned.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/9/2014 2:10 PM, Harry_Yingst wrote:
In many photos of this amp it looks like the LEDs are not lined
Thank you, I have been seriously considering getting this amplifier.
I have been thinking about the alignment of the LEDs and knew it would bug me
for them to not be straight.
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Harry_Yingst hlyin...@yahoo.com;
On 5/8/2014 6:15 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Any good rumors about a U.S 4 meter band? First I've heard it suggested!
Don't hold your breath. There is, and still will be, TV broadcast
operations in that band, and even if TV is evicted the common-carrier
type data providers will have first dibs.
I believe the manual says to use a straight edge or ruler to gently push
against them to align the LEDs. That's what I did and mine are all
fairly well aligned.
Tighe
NK4I
On 5/9/2014 2:34 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
Thank you
I have still to order the Amp, it was just something I was curious on.
From: Tighe Kuykendall t...@nk4i.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2014 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment
I believe the manual says
The uneven LEDs bothered me, too when I was building mine. I merely utilized a
toothpick to adjust and line them up as even as possible before installing the
front panel over them. My solution was an easy one and I suggest you give it a
try.
73, Jeff, NH7RO
Normally, I defer to your expertise. However, my experience is that the
SignaLink is no better or no worse than the built-in sound card in my Lenovo
T400 laptop.
Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one. I saw
no difference with it either. It appears to me that
On 5/9/2014 1:26 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one.
Hi Wes,
I did my testing with JT65HF on he HF bands, with the K3 output feeding
both one Thinkpad internal sound card and the Tascam feeding a second
Thinkpad. I did the same
Wikipedia is way out of date. For up to date info on 4m see www.70MHZ.org
Its currently QRV as WG2XPN/B on an all year round basis. Previously it had
a different callsign every year and was only allowed to transmit
may-spetember (Sp-E) season. It has already been heard by me in TX this
year(off
Hi Dave,
Thanks a lot for this update.
Wayne
N6KR
On May 9, 2014, at 2:45 PM, Dave elecr...@g4fre.com wrote:
Wikipedia is way out of date. For up to date info on 4m see www.70MHZ.org
Its currently QRV as WG2XPN/B on an all year round basis. Previously it had
a different callsign every
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the detailed reply. I have never tried JT65 of any flavor so I have
no basis for comparison and accept your conclusions.
Since I'm more of a DXer than a contester, I don't often use N1MM or any of the
other programs that support 2Tone. I use DXBase for general logging
On 5/9/2014 2:58 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Maybe I should give JT65 a try, except as a former copy-by-ear EMEer
I think it's cheating on that mode :-)
JT65 has elements of watching paint dry, but like some of Joe Taylor's
other modes, it can be a thrill making otherwise impossible QSOs, like
By my audio stuff i mean a mic.
I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a
gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.
So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm
wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would
You wouldn't use a Y-cable. Why not an input on your mixer? Then use whatever
control is convenient in your pile of outboard gear to kill the mic when
running digital modes.
Or pad the mic level back down use K3 mic input.
Another topic is why use the outboard gear at all? Gate limiter
On 5/9/2014 4:40 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
By my audio stuff i mean a mic.
I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a
gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.
Hi Slava,
A de-esser works in the 6-8 kHz range, and you need it in a studio,
Good Weekend All,
Don't have easy access to search the archives, so at risk of a dup, here
is a finding from setting up the KX3, SignaLink with the KX3
Tigertronics made cables, and DM780. HRD works flawlessly with Elecraft
KXUSB here, but...
Using the little paper instruction insert that
I have seen a couple of these at friends homes, read some of 30 pages of
eham.net reviews, but I have not found an extensive review on the rig as a
trail radio.
I am not a SOTA guy, but I do enjoy going to parks, lighthouses, etc and
operating. Is the K2 a good QRP choice for this outside of the
Irv,
Yes, the K2 will serve you quite well for that type of operation. In its
most basic form, it is a CW 80 through 10 meter (except 60 meters)
transceiver which will go up to at least 10 watts (typically 12 to 15
watts). Options extend that to SSB (with the KSB2 option), 60 meters
(K60XV
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