Hi,
I've been using KX3 for some time now and still have some problems
with CW keying. I'm using squeeze keying Curtis A. In the KX3 menu,
there is selected A squeeze mode but during the QSO, it seems that the
B is still enabled. The internal keyer very often adds dash, sometimes
dot. It's
I recently bought a SDRplay RSP1A SDR and have it connected to the IF Out on
my P3, and I'm using it with Win4K3Suite for a spectrum display.
When the radio is tuned to a quiet frequency on CW, I hear weak CW through
my computer speakers, but it stops if I unplug the RSP1A from the P3's IF
Out
Hi Wilson,
The response of the DSP IF filters combines (cascades) with the roofing
filters; when both are the same bandwidth, their skirts fall off much
more sharply (the rolloff is equal to the sum of the two filters). When
one is much broader than the other, we get only the skirts of the
I'm running a remote station using a KAT500 and KPA500 setup. I start
the kat500-Remote.exe program on system boot, with a batch file using
the commands:
rem Run the KAT500 remote control server, with parameters
cd C:\Program Files (x86)\Elecraft\KAT500 Remote\
start /MIN KAT500-Remote.exe
You understand it well.
The plug in filters work before the AtoD converter and protect
it from desense due to strong nearby signals. Desense occurs
when the ALC reduces receive sensitivity because of this strong
signal. This level of suppression can be useful with other hams
operating
Would someone please explain the relationship between our plug in filters (K3)
and the variable filter response provided by our width control.
As I understand the situation, the plug in filters we buy are roofing filters,
used to prevent intermod from strong signals outside the pass band.
Is
An access point will do the job, it can be set up as a simple bridge
between WiFi and wired ethernet, and you can place it as far away from your
transmitting equipment in the shack as possible and run a cable to a wired
switch that provides access for your cabled equipment.
It's very worthwhile
There sure is. I just happened to use one yesterday while testing out a
Raspberry Pi4. Mine is made by IOGEAR, model GWU627. I’ve had it for a few
years, so there might be a newer model out there. Didn’t cost a lot, either -
Amazon is your friend. Connects to your wireless network and has a
I've tried that (with 10 dB sticks on my wifi cameras) and it didn't
really help. That router already had high gain antennas (not the mesh
style, they're apparently only available with internal antennas, sadly).
To 'translate' from a wired only device into wifi, an extender (with
it's own
I'd always say use wired ethernet (with shielded cable) in or near the
shack, a WiFi router or access point there is fine for things like your
phone and tablets, but for radios, logging/controlling PC's etc. it's way
too unreliable when you start operating. It's so annoying when your WiFi
router
Hi Rick:
And... perhaps another answer for Wi-Fi "extension" is to use a better antenna.
Some routers permit you to add an outboard antenna, which could be a gain
antenna, so you would then have a better connection for your LAN. Or, you
might situate the routers so they have a better path.
Just be careful with mesh networks. Some of them, apocryphally, don't play
nice with modern hotspots. I do not know of my own experience because I
don't have a mesh network but I've seen forums with messages to that
effect. So if you're running your OpenSpot3 (to name the first
Somewhere in the dim past (that would be anything over a few weeks ago),
Elecraft has said they will provide some recommendations for suitable
wired-to-wireless dongles.
Grant NQ5T
> On Sep 9, 2020, at 1:28 PM, Joseph Trombino, Jr wrote:
>
> Howdy Gang.
>
> Need someone with a bit of
Howdy Gang.
Need someone with a bit of wireless experience to give me some assistance.
Currently my Verizon home wireless phone router is not co-located in my shack.
There is an Ethernet jack on the router that I’ve used to install new firmware
in my Flex radios but I have to carry and
Just be judicious in the use of wifi extenders, they are half duplex and
since they share the same channel of wifi, cause conflicts, which drags
down the entire network. Some can be configured to hear on one band and
transmit on another, which helps, a little.
My answer was to replace the
Hi Team
I’m selling my Elecraft K3-100 KIt Transceiver (Serial #5765) for
$1825.00, accept PayPal will ship to 48 contiguous states.
For details please email me directly.
73
Al
W1NGA
Monument, CO
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300 Mbps is massive overkill. My K3 and computer is on the other end of
the house from the router and wiring is pretty much out of the
question. I use a little WiFi dongle from IO Gear on the RRC-1258, I've
got a couple, I think they came from Amazon. We use TeamViewer for all
the station
I have several each of 1.8hHz (KFL3A-1.8K) and 500Hz (KFL3A-500).
I would like to trade these for 250Hz (KFL3A-250) and 2.1kHz (KFLA-2.1K)
filters.
Any takers?
Please reply off list
greg/na8v
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This is far beyond sufficient :)
Wayne
N6KR
> On Sep 9, 2020, at 8:29 AM, Pete Meier via Elecraft
> wrote:
>
> The K4 has an eithernet port for remote operations. As I understand it the K4
> doesn’t have WIFI .
> My internet router is not close to my shack so direct CAT 5/6 wiring is not
>
The K4 has an eithernet port for remote operations. As I understand it the K4
doesn’t have WIFI .
My internet router is not close to my shack so direct CAT 5/6 wiring is not
practical.
I know there are wired to wireless adapters available. 300 Mbps seems the
typical speed to the router.
So my
If you have one surplus to your needs you'd consider selling, please email
me direct.
73
Dean K2WW
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Post:
No, not got a mic yet. No key connected either.
Thanks,
Ian
From: Nr4c
Sent: 08 September 2020 22:36
To: Ian Liston-Smith
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 odd behaviour
Did you have anything plugged into the mic jack.
Sent from my iPhone
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