Hello Don, thanks for your fast reply.
I meant a BD139 not BD136 of course, and I had mounted a small heatsink, but
maybe that was to small.
So I will take your advice and get the original type as a replacement of Q6 and
see how that works.
73, Gerald
Gerald,
From your description, I would strongly suggest that you order a
2SC2166 or two from Elecraft.
If you are attempting to operate the KX1 without a heatsink on Q6, DO
NOT DO THAT. Q6 will be zapped in very short order. Use a heat sink on
Q6 at all times.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/24/2012 7:
I've built my KX1 #2203 a while ago and it was working well. After adding
30/80m there was low output from time to time which I found out had to do with
the LP-Filter-board.
So, these days I wanted to fix that and thereby caused some smoke, around Q6 I
guess. Probably tuned the TX to long to put
net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 problem
>
> Pedro,
>
> Do you have the KXB3080 (or KXB30) option installed? If so, be certain
> the wires on the top of the option board have been flush cut and the
> square pads are in place. If the transistors under that board are not
> do
Pedro,
Do you have the KXB3080 (or KXB30) option installed? If so, be certain
the wires on the top of the option board have been flush cut and the
square pads are in place. If the transistors under that board are not
down flat against the main board, they will not allow the KXB3080 board
t
Hi,
I have a problem with my KX1, I notice that if apply some minor force to the
covers my audio level will vary. This sometimes appends if I tap the main knob.
I did a full soldering rework and still no solution.
Any ideas please.
Best regards,
Pedro Correia, CT2GET
Jim, Glad to know that I was not the only one to make this mistake. We have
been trained well to cut pins after soldering. Thanks for you offer of the
chip. Mine is the very latest since I also have the uninstalled 30/80 kit I
ordered at the same time this summer. The number label on the c
At 12/25/2006 11:27 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>Bob,
>
>The correct way to fix it is to obtain a new firmware chip and socket from
>Elecraft.
>You certainly can remove the socket and solder the firmware directly into
>the PC board, and yes you can use a wire to repair the broken pin. That is
>the leas
Bob,
The correct way to fix it is to obtain a new firmware chip and socket from
Elecraft.
You certainly can remove the socket and solder the firmware directly into
the PC board, and yes you can use a wire to repair the broken pin. That is
the least expense and for this instance, it would be exped
Don and Jim thanks for your help.
I may have discovered my problem. On page 18 of the KX1 manual it says "DO
NOT TRIM the 28-pin socket pins before or after soldering. These pins are
hollow and form the lower part of the socket for the IC pins."
When building, I was so used to trimming pin
Don, I left out key info in my first post. Problem exists even with no key.
Would not have posted if the problem was a simple as a shorted key but maybe
there is still a simple solution and I appreciate all responses.
Will go back and check voltages and resistances after Christmas.
73
Bob
Bob,
This has to be a simple matter of a closed (or shorted) dash line. Does it
behave normally with the key NOT plugged in? If so, check the key plug
itself with your ohmmeter. If you find a short between the shell and either
the tip or the ring, check the plug, the cable and your paddles. If
Should have added that the problem continues even with no key installed.. I
have since reseated the MCU but it still continues to transmit "dahs" when I
turn on the power with no key installed.
Read in the archives that another ham had the same problem with his back in
June and have sent him
Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after returning from a
trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon as I turn it on. Sending
'dahs" with a key plugged in. When I plug in a key I hear its side tone as I
normally would under the continuous series of "dahs" being transmitt
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