Mike,
I'd say its better to build the K2 as-is first, then add the modules one at a
time. It's far easier to trouble shoot if you have any problems going along
without the otherstuff already changed. With a good solder sucker it doesn't
take long at all to remove whatever components necessary.
For someone new to K2 building - like, say, someone who just ordered his
first one yesterday :-) - would you recommend building the K2 as
directed and then desoldering parts to add additional boards? The
directions seem to recommend that after a quick skim. But it seems to
me it'd be much eas
Dan:
Don't forget to install jumpers in J9 & J10 (Pin 1 to 3). I removed some
pins from an old computer motherboard nd made jumpers that fit J9 & J10 and
connects a 0.001 cap between J11 (Pin 7 & 12). I do this all the time when
building a K2 so that I do not have to rewire it when installi
Dan,
All I can say is that I have never noticed any problem with just 'sticking
C167 into J11 - I do it frequently when working on K2s.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
> I loaned my KPSK2 (er, ah KSB2) to a fellow ham.
>
> Any Spur or other oddness from just sticking C167 into j11? It
I loaned my KPSK2 (er, ah KSB2) to a fellow ham.
Any Spur or other oddness from just sticking C167 into j11? It'll only be
there a week or two.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber t
5 matches
Mail list logo
